Today's haul - after long break - SDA 1's

Mystery
Mystery Posts: 2,543
edited January 14 in Vintage Speakers
When covid started, I got laid off and pretty much stayed in home arrest almost a year.
Didn't go out much except for groceries and outdoors.
Anyways, was checking local site and saw these SDA-1's along with a sub and a receiver.
They are all working as per PO but haven't tested anything yet.
Need to sanitize them first before bringing inside.

Looks like one tweeter was replaced with RDO on each.
I've had various CRS, SDA 2, 3.1 but never had 1's.

de8pyjazpxjb.jpg
5dqbff00uose.jpg



Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,296
    edited January 14
    The black tweeter is either an SL2500 or SL3000. Neither is the correct tweeter for that model.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    F1nut wrote: »
    The black tweeter is either an SL2500 or SL3000. Neither is the correct tweeter for that model.

    Ah I see.
    Glad that I didn't pay much.

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • teekay0007
    teekay0007 Posts: 2,292
    F1nut wrote: »
    The black tweeter is either an SL2500 or SL3000. Neither is the correct tweeter for that model.
    All SL3000 tweeters that I’ve seen have a dome with a metallic (gold) sheen to them. Those must be the SL2500.

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,502
    teekay0007 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    The black tweeter is either an SL2500 or SL3000. Neither is the correct tweeter for that model.
    All SL3000 tweeters that I’ve seen have a dome with a metallic (gold) sheen to them. Those must be the SL2500.

    Mine were almost a black chrome color.
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 9,554
    I'm still using the Peerless Monitor 4s you sold me years ago.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    Also, no IC cable.
    From what I read, these early SDA 1's IC cable is a pain to fabricate unlike latter pin/blade versions.
    Oh well...

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,296
    teekay0007 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    The black tweeter is either an SL2500 or SL3000. Neither is the correct tweeter for that model.
    All SL3000 tweeters that I’ve seen have a dome with a metallic (gold) sheen to them. Those must be the SL2500.

    Due to the manufacturing process SL3000's came out in 3 color tones, silver, gold or black. IMO, the OP's pics are not sharp enough to tell if the dome is cloth (SL2500) or mylar/metallic (SL3000).
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,296
    Mystery wrote: »
    Also, no IC cable.
    From what I read, these early SDA 1's IC cable is a pain to fabricate unlike latter pin/blade versions.
    Oh well...

    Replace the SDA socket with Neutrik connectors and matching cable terminations. Just be sure you get the air tight sockets.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    Nightfall wrote: »
    I'm still using the Peerless Monitor 4s you sold me years ago.

    Dang! That's like eight years ago.

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,502
    Mystery wrote: »
    Nightfall wrote: »
    I'm still using the Peerless Monitor 4s you sold me years ago.

    Dang! That's like eight years ago.

    He just got them buggers broke in...
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    edited January 15
    F1nut wrote: »
    Due to the manufacturing process SL3000's came out in 3 color tones, silver, gold or black. IMO, the OP's pics are not sharp enough to tell if the dome is cloth (SL2500) or mylar/metallic (SL3000).
    You ask and you shall receive... ;)
    Here's close up picture, right click and open image for big size.
    Can you tell if these are RDO's or not?
    Looks like original tweeter frame moved down slightly looking at the glue residue or was just a bad repair job when fixing/replacing the tweeter.
    Also, it has two small ports that look like monitor 4 port.
    r9giv5x42nb6.jpg

    Btw, these are probably the best cosmetic condition Polk speakers I ever got.
    All pegs intact, logo and labels on the back intact, they even have felt on the bottom of bases so not to scratch floor.
    I gently pushed the woofers and all woofers moved freely so hopefully, they all work.
    1yepj58qth8v.jpg

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    F1nut wrote: »
    Mystery wrote: »
    Also, no IC cable.
    From what I read, these early SDA 1's IC cable is a pain to fabricate unlike latter pin/blade versions.
    Oh well...

    Replace the SDA socket with Neutrik connectors and matching cable terminations. Just be sure you get the air tight sockets.
    On the back, there are two twist fuses, one for stereo and one for dimensional and two additional fuse holders.
    There are no fuse left in the fuse holders so I guess they already used them up and I may need to stock up on 1amp fast blow fuses as well.
    After not having any SDA for years, these feel big and heavy. :smiley:

    And yes, the IC connection is old style with two pins in a socket.

    Serial 1891. Does that mean it was built in 89 or 91?
    Here's the picture of the back.
    h4yn2y6yd0r7.jpg

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,502
    If you pull it and look I'm sure it will say sl2500.

    Also most times passive/driver will have a date wrote on them. Serial number has no bearing on date. My SDA 1 signature have that panel with yhe exception of the RTA interconnect socket. Mine was blade/blade. That you will need to change to Neutrik connection. It's easy to do. just remember to keep the wires as they are on the backside the switch and connection takes place inside the speaker. what I mean by this and I'm just going to use some colors here that probably do not represent the colors inside your speaker. If the big blade has a pink wire on one speaker on the other speaker that pink wire will be on the small blade that's the way you need to keep it.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 2,026
    edited January 15
    The previous owner didn't let the fact that the tweeter cutouts are for the smaller SL1000 stop them from mounting the SL2500(?) with the larger bezel. Maybe 1/8" wider and 5/16+" taller? From Darqueknight's thread it looks like the mounting screw holes wouldn't match up either, which would mean they made fresh holes at the top locations? Would be interesting to see by removing tweeter instead of speculating.
    George / NJ

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,296
    Mystery wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    Due to the manufacturing process SL3000's came out in 3 color tones, silver, gold or black. IMO, the OP's pics are not sharp enough to tell if the dome is cloth (SL2500) or mylar/metallic (SL3000).
    You ask and you shall receive... ;)
    Here's close up picture, right click and open image for big size.
    Can you tell if these are RDO's or not?

    I already told you they are not RD0xxx tweeters. Thanks for the better pic, that's an SL2500.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 12,734
    F1nut wrote: »

    I already told you they are not RD0xxx tweeters. Thanks for the better pic, that's an SL2500.

    SAY IT!!!!
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 46,296
    HAAAAAAAAAAAAAR
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 2,053
    Those are indeed SL2500s. How do they sound? And are both tweeters still being used in the circuit?
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 14,723
    Do you still live over by the park??
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Do you still live over by the park??

    Yes, same place. What about you?

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    The previous owner didn't let the fact that the tweeter cutouts are for the smaller SL1000 stop them from mounting the SL2500(?) with the larger bezel. Maybe 1/8" wider and 5/16+" taller? From Darqueknight's thread it looks like the mounting screw holes wouldn't match up either, which would mean they made fresh holes at the top locations? Would be interesting to see by removing tweeter instead of speculating.

    Where's the fun in reading the label? :smiley:
    Testing today...

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    edited January 16
    Bad news... most drivers don't work. :(
    I hooked them up, without the IC cable as it didn't come with one, and only one mid on the left is working and 3 mids on the right are working.
    I guess the top outside mid works only with IC cable so those may be good drivers.
    What about tweeter? Is the outside tweeter for dimensional effect?
    I'll pull drivers out and check wiring when I get some time away from kids.

    Not sure what I'm gonna do with these. :confused:

    Below is a picture. I marked red X for the drivers that don't produce any sound.
    Yellow circle is for the ones I think will work with IC cable.
    All mids' cones move freely so no magnet shift, unless there is no magnet at all. :wink:
    Those non working mids are either disconnected or blown. :cold_sweat:

    6q3teyycwn1v.jpg

    Looks like someone did a botched repair on these beautiful speakers. :rage:

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,502
    edited January 16
    Bottom 2 drivers are the bass drivers. The inside top driver is the stereo the outside SDA driver. Yes you are correct the outside tweeter and top driver are SDA both will not work without the cable. Most unhook or remove the fuse to the SDA tweeter. In the beginning I liked its effect in the music.....BUT I'd find myself looking around for the freaky sound that I would keep hearing. That was distracting so I left it unhooked.

    For all those MW you can use both mw6501 and mw6600. mw6501 are not nearly as plentiful.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 2,053
    Do the drivers ohm out good?
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    ...Yes you are correct the outside tweeter and top driver are SDA both will not work without the cable. Most unhook or remove the fuse to the SDA tweeter...
    If the outside tweeters work, I'll swap them for the stereo mode and put the SL2500 disconnected.
    xschop wrote: »
    Do the drivers ohm out good?
    Need to find some time when kids are not running around.
    Curiosity kills speakers. None of my HT setup's dust caps have survived from the kids. :wink:

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 14,723
    edited January 17
    Mystery wrote: »
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    Do you still live over by the park??

    Yes, same place. What about you?

    Yes, same place, don’t see us moving any time soon, we have paid down the house quite a bit the last few years, I would like to continue that trend..

    Hope you and the family have been fairing well with the crazy political Covid world we live in these days!!

    Good luck with your speakers..

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    edited January 22
    Finally got around checking the drivers. Yes, the black tweeters are SL2500. :wink:
    All drivers look okay although I'm not sure about what the ohm readings should be on the tweeters.
    Both left and right tweeters read around 3.2-3.4 ohms and I hear faint high frequency noise when multimeter leads touch the tweeter leads.
    The liner around the outside tweeter is just foam cutout that has stretched.
    I thought it was a hole initially in the picture. Looks like this tweeter was not touched.
    Both left and right mid woofers read around 8.4 ohms.
    Left lower bass woofers read around 6.2 ohms.
    It doesn't look like anyone ever took the woofers out.
    Didn't check the right lower bass woofers as they are working.
    Next will be crossovers.
    I'm applying some epoxy on the drivers so need to wait before I check the crossovers.

    Looks like the issue might be on the crossover.
    Do you guys see anything weird on the wiring?

    i6ywxxigjp3g.jpg

    zxrdptxebkpj.jpg

    21gf46icnhza.jpg

    Oh, haven't checked the fuse. Should have done that first. :smiley:
    Is the fuse separate for mids, bass woofers and tweeters?

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 19,502
    edited January 22
    Tweeters are fused no drivers are fused.

    Did you take wires off to test? If not please retest with no drivers hooked up to wires.

    When you re-install the sl2500 tweeter make sure the old SL1000 cut out is not pressing the connection point on the sl2500. That cut out is way different for sl2000 and up to sl3000 to make room to keep the connection tabs from being pressed into the magnet.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Tweeters are fused no drivers are fused.

    Did you take wires off to test? If not please retest with no drivers hooked up to wires.

    When you re-install the sl2500 tweeter make sure the old SL1000 cut out is not pressing the connection point on the sl2500. That cut out is way different for sl2000 and up to sl3000 to make room to keep the connection tabs from being pressed into the magnet.
    Ah... yes, I just tested across the leads with wires in place.
    I'll test again after epoxy sets in without wires.

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,543
    edited January 22
    I can't pull the wires off of the mid woofers.
    They are really stuck and I don't want to break or cut it.
    Next best thing to test is to run a test signal through them one by one.

    Does anyone know what frequency is good for mid woofers to test with?
    Is 500Hz good or should I test with 1000Hz?

    Sonus Faber Concerto Grand Piano, Klipsch, B&W DM602.5, Epicure 20+, T/E 280, 100V, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Monitor Audio, B&W ASW300, Triad ProSub Bronze.