Making in walls out of SDA 1C's

Have my original SDA's from 1987 and have enjoyed them for many years. Time for a change so l'm trying something different by converting them to in walls. I cut the enclosures off from the faceplate that houses the drivers. Installed tongue and groove panels on an angle in each front corner. Eliminated the interconnect cable and re wired the crossovers to a standard 3 way speaker. I will upload pics. They are on another device. Lost some bass due to the size of the corner panels. But I'm using a subwoofer so no big deal. Actually very surprised and happy with the sound they still produce.
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Comments

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,136
    I have to know.....were you really tired of having good imaging and soundstage OR was it wife problems?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    The speakers are 34 years old and were about to be a yard sale. I plan on replacing them with klipsch in Wells. So this is just a project that save me around 500 bucks. They still rock and sound amazing
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Sorry man you will get no sympathy for that...

    I really want to know how you worked the XO
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    I wire the dimensional drivers the same as the stereo drivers. So they are in series instead of parrarell
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Well all I can say is say is that the setup looks really cool! I love the natural wood paneling and the light sea foam green paint. The floating cabinet is really modern looking but the paneling and curtains give it a very light, bright, airy and welcoming feel. And compared to like 98% of American setups, I’m sure it sounds awesome. Nice job!

    And nice Congas! You play any other instruments?
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    Yes I also play drums.
  • invalid
    invalid Posts: 1,270
    I think you should have used a different speaker for that in wall set up, but it does look cool.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,136
    If I understood correctly he is planning to replace them with Klipsch In Wall Speakers, like these I suppose:

    https://www.klipsch.com/in-wall-speakers

    I suppose you can sell the Polk drivers as individual units. The crossover won't have any value after your mods. The SDA 1C's would've been worth more uncorrupted.

    Are the corner unit boxes sealed or open at the top and bottom?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,136
    edited October 2020
    I should've also said that I agree the room does look very nice. Good use of the knotty pine.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Ugh
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    If I understood correctly he is planning to replace them with Klipsch In Wall Speakers, like these I suppose:

    https://www.klipsch.com/in-wall-speakers

    I suppose you can sell the Polk drivers as individual units. The crossover won't have any value after your mods. The SDA 1C's would've been worth more uncorrupted.

    Are the corner unit boxes sealed or open at the top and bottom?
    If I understood correctly he is planning to replace them with Klipsch In Wall Speakers, like these I suppose:

    https://www.klipsch.com/in-wall-speakers

    I suppose you can sell the Polk drivers as individual units. The crossover won't have any value after your mods. The SDA 1C's would've been worth more uncorrupted.

    Are the corner unit boxes sealed or open at the top and bottom?

    They are sealed and have batting in them
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    If I understood correctly he is planning to replace them with Klipsch In Wall Speakers, like these I suppose:

    https://www.klipsch.com/in-wall-speakers

    I suppose you can sell the Polk drivers as individual units. The crossover won't have any value after your mods. The SDA 1C's would've been worth more uncorrupted.

    Are the corner unit boxes sealed or open at the top and bottom?

    Yes. I’m still considering the klipsch 5502’s. They are currently out of stock. One of the reasons I decided to go this route for now.
    I was never concerned about making any money by selling the sda’s. I’ve gotten plenty of use out of them. The crossovers are fully intact I just re-directed the internal wiring
  • Honestly some VERY nice quality work, I would like to hear this set up!

    And I get why some purists balk at dismantling an older vintage speaker, but if the OP is happy, why not?

    At least it is not some total hack job, some class and work to what he did!~
  • gyosa
    gyosa Posts: 675
    edited October 2020
    👍

    That’s definitely thinking “outside the box”....

    When you’re ready to ditch them , let us know , instead of pitching them to the curb ....
    Someone here may want those mid-woofer drivers as spares - like me !
    😊

    Bk
    Parasound A21 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Polk SDA 1c’s ( my first love .. ) , Kimber Kable 4TC, Sony 42” - BEDROOM

    B&K EX-442 ( it will go in my casket when I die ... ) , PS Audio 4.6 preamp ( old school , but it still jams on ... ) , Yamaha wxc-50 , Boston Acoustic voyager 7’s - POOL

    PS Audio Stellar S300 , Eversolo DMP-A8 , Yamaha wxc-50 , Kimber Kable 4vs , Salk Supercharged Song towers ( difficult choice between these and my family if I had to choose ... 😩 ) , Sony XBR-A8F 65” OLED - DEN , MAIN RIG

    Cambridge Audio 851n - sitting in the closet , for now

    Onkyo TX-nr609 , Polk atrium 7 , Boston acoustic sound ware (4) , Boston acoustic sub , B&W center , Sharp 65” TV - PATIO

    DAYENS AMPINO ( thanks Verb ! ) , KEiiD streamer ( this was only 60 bucks ?? ) , Polk atrium 8SDi’s - KID’s BEDROOM
  • The designer/fabricator in me, is curious what actual interior volume those corner boxes would measure?

    They seem a good bit larger than the original box for sure.

    That would account for much of the loss of bass, exempting sealing issues.. If the box is far larger than the original design (which this visually seems to be) that would drastically lower the box tuning to the point where the passive would not contribute much to the bass, as originally designed.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    I'd have to agree to that assessment. They used a 15" passive in the bigger SDA SRS 2 which used the same drivers.
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    The designer/fabricator in me, is curious what actual interior volume those corner boxes would measure?

    They seem a good bit larger than the original box for sure.

    That would account for much of the loss of bass, exempting sealing issues.. If the box is far larger than the original design (which this visually seems to be) that would drastically lower the box tuning to the point where the passive would not contribute much to the bass, as originally designed.

    during the intial trial with no sub, I noticed the bass loss. So I packed the upper and lower sections of corners with batting. I left the area behind the 4 drivers down to the passive open. That brought back some bass and it is more than enough when used in conjuction with my sub.
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    gyosa wrote: »
    👍

    That’s definitely thinking “outside the box”....

    When you’re ready to ditch them , let us know , instead of pitching them to the curb ....
    Someone here may want those mid-woofer drivers as spares - like me !
    😊

    Bk

    I see you have B&K amp. I have a ton of equipment including B&K 654 amp, pro 5 preamp and tuner. Denon 4400 mono blocks and alot more just collecting dust in storage. To simplify, I switched over to Pioneer Elite recievers and couldnt be happier.
  • kabory wrote: »
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    The designer/fabricator in me, is curious what actual interior volume those corner boxes would measure?

    They seem a good bit larger than the original box for sure.

    That would account for much of the loss of bass, exempting sealing issues.. If the box is far larger than the original design (which this visually seems to be) that would drastically lower the box tuning to the point where the passive would not contribute much to the bass, as originally designed.

    during the intial trial with no sub, I noticed the bass loss. So I packed the upper and lower sections of corners with batting. I left the area behind the 4 drivers down to the passive open. That brought back some bass and it is more than enough when used in conjuction with my sub.

    Something you may (or may not) want to try, is to see how well sealed the "Box" is, by pushing carefully on the middle of the passive, then release it and watching how slowly or quickly it moves back to the normal position.
    That will give you a fair idea (outside of running an impedance sweep) of how much air loss is occurring or not.
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    kabory wrote: »
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    The designer/fabricator in me, is curious what actual interior volume those corner boxes would measure?

    They seem a good bit larger than the original box for sure.

    That would account for much of the loss of bass, exempting sealing issues.. If the box is far larger than the original design (which this visually seems to be) that would drastically lower the box tuning to the point where the passive would not contribute much to the bass, as originally designed.

    during the intial trial with no sub, I noticed the bass loss. So I packed the upper and lower sections of corners with batting. I left the area behind the 4 drivers down to the passive open. That brought back some bass and it is more than enough when used in conjuction with my sub.

    Something you may (or may not) want to try, is to see how well sealed the "Box" is, by pushing carefully on the middle of the passive, then release it and watching how slowly or quickly it moves back to the normal position.
    That will give you a fair idea (outside of running an impedance sweep) of how much air loss is occurring or not.

    It moves back fairly quick
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    edited October 2020
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    kabory wrote: »
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    The designer/fabricator in me, is curious what actual interior volume those corner boxes would measure?

    They seem a good bit larger than the original box for sure.

    That would account for much of the loss of bass, exempting sealing issues.. If the box is far larger than the original design (which this visually seems to be) that would drastically lower the box tuning to the point where the passive would not contribute much to the bass, as originally designed.

    during the intial trial with no sub, I noticed the bass loss. So I packed the upper and lower sections of corners with batting. I left the area behind the 4 drivers down to the passive open. That brought back some bass and it is more than enough when used in conjuction with my sub.

    Something you may (or may not) want to try, is to see how well sealed the "Box" is, by pushing carefully on the middle of the passive, then release it and watching how slowly or quickly it moves back to the normal position.
    That will give you a fair idea (outside of running an impedance sweep) of how much air loss is occurring or not.

    That is NOT the way you test, that will tell you nothing.


    Passive test is
    1. push quickly in until bottoms out and hold there and watch mid-woofers hold until MW are back at resting position
    2. count time it takes MW to recede to resting position
    3. the longer the better report back





  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
    kabory wrote: »
    gyosa wrote: »
    👍

    That’s definitely thinking “outside the box”....

    When you’re ready to ditch them , let us know , instead of pitching them to the curb ....
    Someone here may want those mid-woofer drivers as spares - like me !
    😊

    Bk

    I see you have B&K amp. I have a ton of equipment including B&K 654 amp, pro 5 preamp and tuner. Denon 4400 mono blocks and alot more just collecting dust in storage. To simplify, I switched over to Pioneer Elite recievers and couldnt be happier.

    4400 mono blocks you say?
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    lightman1 wrote: »
    kabory wrote: »
    gyosa wrote: »
    👍

    That’s definitely thinking “outside the box”....

    When you’re ready to ditch them , let us know , instead of pitching them to the curb ....
    Someone here may want those mid-woofer drivers as spares - like me !
    😊

    Bk

    I see you have B&K amp. I have a ton of equipment including B&K 654 amp, pro 5 preamp and tuner. Denon 4400 mono blocks and alot more just collecting dust in storage. To simplify, I switched over to Pioneer Elite recievers and couldnt be happier.

    4400 mono blocks you say?

    of9s2a4izsxz.jpeg
  • kabory
    kabory Posts: 17
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    kabory wrote: »
    Hansvelton wrote: »
    The designer/fabricator in me, is curious what actual interior volume those corner boxes would measure?

    They seem a good bit larger than the original box for sure.

    That would account for much of the loss of bass, exempting sealing issues.. If the box is far larger than the original design (which this visually seems to be) that would drastically lower the box tuning to the point where the passive would not contribute much to the bass, as originally designed.

    during the intial trial with no sub, I noticed the bass loss. So I packed the upper and lower sections of corners with batting. I left the area behind the 4 drivers down to the passive open. That brought back some bass and it is more than enough when used in conjuction with my sub.

    Something you may (or may not) want to try, is to see how well sealed the "Box" is, by pushing carefully on the middle of the passive, then release it and watching how slowly or quickly it moves back to the normal position.
    That will give you a fair idea (outside of running an impedance sweep) of how much air loss is occurring or not.

    That is NOT the way you test, that will tell you nothing.


    Passive test is
    1. push quickly in until bottoms out and hold there and watch mid-woofers hold until MW are back at resting position
    2. count time it takes MW to recede to resting position
    3. the longer the better report back





    MW recede quick
    I did run a 5 to 200 Hz test off of YouTube through my sound system with the sub disconnected and the SDA1C’s were audible starting at 40 Hz
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,420
    lightman1 wrote: »
    kabory wrote: »
    gyosa wrote: »
    👍

    That’s definitely thinking “outside the box”....

    When you’re ready to ditch them , let us know , instead of pitching them to the curb ....
    Someone here may want those mid-woofer drivers as spares - like me !
    😊

    Bk

    I see you have B&K amp. I have a ton of equipment including B&K 654 amp, pro 5 preamp and tuner. Denon 4400 mono blocks and alot more just collecting dust in storage. To simplify, I switched over to Pioneer Elite recievers and couldnt be happier.

    4400 mono blocks you say?

    Right next to the VCR
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
    I've got a soft spot for old Denon iron