Do I need amp?

mauro_ferrante
mauro_ferrante Posts: 28
in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
Gentlemen, I have recently bought a pair of rti a7, one csi4, one dsw 550 and a pair of rti a3. I have also bought a sr5014 marantz avr. Will this be enough to move the whole set? Do I need amp for the a7s?
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,966
    edited June 2020 Answer ✓
    Do not get a pro amp, get an amp designed for home use. I always buy used. Parasound, B&K, rotel are good options. If you want to buy new here’s about the best deal you’ll find: https://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=PAC2125V2. Outlaw has a great 5 channel amp you might look at: https://outlawaudio.com/shop/index.php?id_product=27&rewrite=model-5000&controller=product
    Avoid emotiva, they’re too bright for the RTiA series.

    To hook up you’ll need a pair of rca cables to connect to the marantz’s r/l preouts. Those will go to the inputs are on the amp. The speaker cable for the mains will connect to the amp.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 4,926
    Answer ✓
    Those are for cases where you might not be using a receiver to manage the crossover.
    • Using an AVR (receiver), you would use the LFE line in so that you could benefit from the low frequency effects (explosions etc.) that speakers cannot fully reproduce. The standard crossover frequency is about 80Hz, but if your speakers are small, you might set that as high as 120Hz. If your speakers are larger - and can play lower frequencies, this might be set as low as 40Hz. You can play with these settings to see what you prefer. In this scenario, the speaker binding posts would not be used. The subwoofer crossover dial would not be used.
    • Using an old school stereo integrated, or anything that doesn’t have a subwoofer pre-out connection, or some form of crossover management, then you would use speaker wires to connect from the source L/R binding posts to the binding posts labeled “speaker in” on the subwoofer. The speakers would then be connected to the L/R “speaker out” binding posts. In this scenario, you would be using the subwoofer crossover dial to chose an appropriate crossover setting.

    So, when using the speaker binding posts, instead of the LFE (coaxial) connection, there is still NO amplification of the speakers from the subwoofer. All that is being managed is the crossover.

    This setup is not ideal for Home Theater because the LFE channel is a dedicated channel - the “dot one” in a 5.1 or 7.1 system. The special effects are not as dramatic when the subwoofer crossover is used, instead of a crossover in an AVR. Using the AVR ensures that the LFE channel is reproduced as intended.
    Alea jacta est!
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,966
    Answer ✓
    mauro_ferrante wrote: »
    Ok but then, what are those connections for? I mean the "speaker in" & "speaker out" that you can see in the picture.

    In a pure two channel system, you want the subwoofer closely integrated with speakers, having the same tonal signature. The best way to insure this tonal match is to take speaker cable from your amplifier and run into your subwoofers speaker level inputs, and then out of the speaker level Outputs to your speakers. Your amplifier is powering the speakers, the sub is just passing that signal on.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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Answers

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,019
    If you listen to music you will always need an Amp
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,966
    How big is your room? Is this mainly for music or movies? Your mains will sound better with an amp, no doubt, but depending on room size and crossover point you might be ok without one.

    But I agree with Trey that if music is important to you, you will notice a significant improvement with an amp...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • mauro_ferrante
    mauro_ferrante Posts: 28
    Thanks a lot both of you. Which kind of amp should I add? And how should I connect the avr, the additional amp and the a7s?
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  • mauro_ferrante
    mauro_ferrante Posts: 28
    Thanks a lot rooftop59!
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  • mauro_ferrante
    mauro_ferrante Posts: 28
    Would it be possible to use the subwoofer to amplifie the floorstanding speakers? The dsw 550 has a 200 w amp. What do you think?ffiknd7jv5gs.png
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,781
    NO!!!

    The sub amp drives the sub, nothing else.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,966
    mauro_ferrante wrote: »
    Would it be possible to use the subwoofer to amplifie the floorstanding speakers? The dsw 550 has a 200 w amp. What do you think?

    That amp can pass the signal on to your amplifier, but it will not power any other speakers.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • mauro_ferrante
    mauro_ferrante Posts: 28
    Ok but then, what are those connections for? I mean the "speaker in" & "speaker out" that you can see in the picture.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    Those are for speaker level connections as opposed to line level type connections.
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  • mauro_ferrante
    mauro_ferrante Posts: 28
    Thank you very much Ken and Kex!
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    You're welcome, enjoy!
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited June 2020
    Welcome to Club Polk.
    mauro_ferrante wrote: »
    Do I need amp for the a7s?
    yup. Unless Marantz stacks up well in the power department, after you get what you have set up, connected, sounding OK, those ‘A7s would be much happier w/a separate amp.

    I agree w/...
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Do not get a pro amp, get an amp designed for home use. Parasound, B&K, rotel are good [used] options. If you want to buy new here’s about the best deal you’ll find: https://www.audioadvisor.com/mobile/prodinfo.asp?number=PAC2125V2. Outlaw* has a great 5 channel amp you might look at: https://outlawaudio.com/shop/index.php?id_product=27&rewrite=model-5000&controller=product
    Avoid emotiva, they’re too bright for the RTiA series.
    lots of good advice above. Also Outlaw sells good mono amps at a good price.

    https://www.outlawaudio.com/products/amps.html

    You should find some* used eBay, etc

    A side note: the last couple of weeks I’ve been listening to a pair of outdoor speakers, Polk Atrium 55 powered by either a Rotel, Parasound, or Belles. Today I connected them to a Denon AVR 2802 only to realize it will “do” for my backyard system but I miss the above 😟

    Enjoy! Tony

    Psst: I have Parasounds & a Belles for sale either of which your ‘A7s would love


    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,781
    mauro_ferrante wrote: »
    Gentlemen, I have recently bought a pair of rti a7, one csi4, one dsw 550 and a pair of rti a3. I have also bought a sr5014 marantz avr. Will this be enough to move the whole set? Do I need amp for the a7s?

    That Marantz is a nice AVR. IMO, you do NOT need a separate amp.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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