Restoration of SDA 1C Again!!!

Hi
I got a pair of SDA 1C. I would like to do a full restoration (cabinet side panel came out). I know there are lot of threads about this and I went through. I have a very good idea what to do.
I have one question regarding securing the magnet. I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?

Any help would be great!

Thank you!
Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
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Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,506
    Use Loctite Power Grab or JB Weld. Loctite red is for screws and bolts.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    F1nut wrote: »
    Use Loctite Power Grab or JB Weld. Loctite red is for screws and bolts.

    Okay, thanks!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • Moose68BashMoose68Bash Posts: 3,665
    Those panels look very good.

    Keep us posted about your progress.
    Family Room, PS Audio PW Transport, DirectStream DAC w/Bridge II; AQ Sky XLRs, McIntosh MC 220 Tube Pre; AQ Sky XLRs, CAT 600.2 Dualmono Amp, Morrow SP7 Speaker Cables, SDA SRS 1.2tls (RD0198s, Dreadnought, Black Hole 5, Acousta-Stuf, Dynamat Extreme, JBWeld. Vr3 Mods: "The Abbot" Monastery-Level Xovers, Custom Internal Wiring, Binding Post Plates, & SDA ICs).

    Exercise Room, Wadia 171 iPod Dock, PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ Sky XLRs, Perreaux PMF3150 Amp, Dreadnought, Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables, SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers).

    Synology 713+ NAS on Gigabit LAN serving PW MkII DAC & DirectStream DAC.
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,627
    Beautiful veneer work Sanjib
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    Beautiful veneer work Sanjib

    Thank you, Dave! I put the vinyl film on them.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • westmassguywestmassguy Posts: 6,627
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Beautiful veneer work Sanjib

    Thank you, Dave! I put the vinyl film on them.

    Still looks nice
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
    Exclusive Distributor of Gimpod's Custom SDA Circuit Boards

    "And keep her under 70, would you, huh? Betty likes a slow ride"
  • xschopxschop Posts: 1,407
    Fooled me. Looks like real wood veneer. You did a very nice job. Let us know how you like the sound after recap.
  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 958
    That veneer project came out great.
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!

    Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?b32327ii9fqk.jpg
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,506
    I'm sorry, the front to sides and especially the sides to top and bottom transitions are all wrong.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,327
    edited February 20
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!

    Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?b32327ii9fqk.jpg

    The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
    I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
    Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.

    Hope this helps.

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,506
    Good eyes Ivan, those gaskets are all wrong too.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!

    Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?b32327ii9fqk.jpg

    The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
    I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
    Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.

    Hope this helps.

    I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
    Thanks
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,327
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!

    Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?b32327ii9fqk.jpg

    The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
    I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
    Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.

    Hope this helps.

    I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
    Thanks

    Dynamat looks good. No need to cover it all a little goes a long way.

    Do you understand what I'm trying to convey here with the gasket?
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!

    Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?b32327ii9fqk.jpg

    The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
    I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
    Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.

    Hope this helps.

    I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
    Thanks

    Dynamat looks good. No need to cover it all a little goes a long way.

    Do you understand what I'm trying to convey here with the gasket?

    Thank you!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 2,155
    edited February 20
    You need just enough dynomat to dampen the ringing of the baskets. tap on them with your fingernail before and it will "sing" after it will just make a thumping sound. Good enough. I actually went around my cabinet looking for the same thing and found a couple of spots that dynomat helped. Most won't think that's necessary but I'm very happy with the results I got.
    One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
  • SchurkeySchurkey Posts: 1,938
    edited February 20
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?
    As is so often the case here, "Loctite Red" is far too ambiguous. Specify a product number so we know WHICH "red" product from Loctite you actually mean. I bet Loctite has a dozen products with red color.

    Taking a wild guess, you mean "271, red high-strength anaerobic thread locker"; and if the magnet was entirely removed from the basket and the pole piece, that's probably a fine adhesive to re-glue them. I used a competing product from 3M; (TL71) essentially the same thing as 271 to reattach the magnet that broke off of a MW6509 that I stupidly dropped on the floor.
    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Threadlocker-TL71/?N=5002385+3293241418&preselect=8710676+8710815+8745694&rt=rud

    But unless the magnet has entirely detached, that's probably a poor choice. There's another thread where another Loctite thread-locker was suggested, a thin-bodied one that "wicks" into position. (Loctite 290 "Green") I have no experience with that product and speaker magnets.
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184463/a-different-twist-on-the-magnet-gluing-process#latest

    We see the same thing when folks talk about "Power Grab", there's multiple formulations, the formulations sold this year may not be the same as the formulations sold five years ago, and some of those formulations are entirely wrong for our magnet-gluing/reinforcing application. But folks here jabber on about "Power Grab" as if there was only one product by that name.
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/170827/loctite-henkel-power-grab-for-speaker-magnets/p1
    .
    .
    For the good of the Free World, DEMAND COMPENSATION FROM CHINA for their release of an engineered virus from their Wuhan laboratory. Two trillion to start with, increasing as needed from there.
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    Schurkey wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?
    As is so often the case here, "Loctite Red" is far too ambiguous. Specify a product number so we know WHICH "red" product from Loctite you actually mean. I bet Loctite has a dozen products with red color.

    Taking a wild guess, you mean "271, red high-strength anaerobic thread locker"; and if the magnet was entirely removed from the basket and the pole piece, that's probably a fine adhesive to re-glue them. I used a competing product from 3M; (TL71) essentially the same thing as 271 to reattach the magnet that broke off of a MW6509 that I stupidly dropped on the floor.
    https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Threadlocker-TL71/?N=5002385+3293241418&preselect=8710676+8710815+8745694&rt=rud

    But unless the magnet has entirely detached, that's probably a poor choice. There's another thread where another Loctite thread-locker was suggested, a thin-bodied one that "wicks" into position. (Loctite 290 "Green") I have no experience with that product and speaker magnets.
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184463/a-different-twist-on-the-magnet-gluing-process#latest

    We see the same thing when folks talk about "Power Grab", there's multiple formulations, the formulations sold this year may not be the same as the formulations sold five years ago, and some of those formulations are entirely wrong for our magnet-gluing/reinforcing application. But folks here jabber on about "Power Grab" as if there was only one product by that name.
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/170827/loctite-henkel-power-grab-for-speaker-magnets/p1

    I don't think magnet has moved. I used this one in three places along the joint.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Power-Grab-Ultimate-9-fl-oz-Construction-Adhesive-1989550/206210490
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    I
    audioluvr wrote: »
    You need just enough dynomat to dampen the ringing of the baskets. tap on them with your fingernail before and it will "sing" after it will just make a thumping sound. Good enough. I actually went around my cabinet looking for the same thing and found a couple of spots that dynomat helped. Most won't think that's necessary but I'm very happy with the results I got.

    I have previously used Dynamat in the same on my CRS+ and I am very happy with the result.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    Behind the drivers on the back cabinet inside wall.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 44,506
    That is seriously the wrong stuff. Look for Blackhole 5.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 2,155
    One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    [/quote]

    I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
    Thanks[/quote]

    Dynamat looks good. No need to cover it all a little goes a long way.

    Do you understand what I'm trying to convey here with the gasket? [/quote]

    Sorry, I missed your last question. Yes, I understood and corrected it.
    Thanks!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 16,327
    edited February 21
    Sanjib_a wrote: »

    Do not use this.^^^^^
    That is like dynamat and is the wrong stuff.

    Blackhole 5 at

    http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/blackhole-p-50?sort=6a

    Or the sonic barrier is the correct stuff to use. Yes it goes on the back of the cabinet behind the midwoofers only. You still use the poly fil as well. Poly fil goes right back to where it was.

    https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-1-4-3-layer-acoustic-sound-damping-material-with-psa-18-x-24--260-535
  • Sanjib_aSanjib_a Posts: 57
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »

    Do not use this.^^^^^
    That is like dynamat and is the wrong stuff.

    Blackhole 5 at

    http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/blackhole-p-50?sort=6a

    Or the sonic barrier is the correct stuff to use. Yes it goes on the back of the cabinet behind the midwoofers only. You still use the poly fil as well. Poly fil goes right back to where it was.

    https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-1-4-3-layer-acoustic-sound-damping-material-with-psa-18-x-24--260-535

    What is the difference between sonic barriers and sound absorber?
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui 9090DB, 9090; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz 2275, Denon PMA-960, Technics SL-1350, 1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • GardenstaterGardenstater Posts: 911
    edited February 21
    Here is another one that you might consider. Some here have expressed the opinion that it is good and I believe the general feeling I have gotten here is that most think Blackhole5 and Norez are superior to the Sonic Barrier. The mfg of the Norez gives a pretty good explanation of why they think their product is superior. They don't actually give the thickness of their damping layer (the one right against the adhesive) but they say it is twice as thick as Blackhole5's damping layer. I just measured my Blackhole5 and the damping layer is about 0.047" fwiw.

    http://gr-research.com/norez24x27sheet.aspx

    I haven't done the mod yet to my 7Bs because I need another piece of Blackhole5, which is what I decided to go with. Very expensive though.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub
    Crown D150 amp
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14 gauge, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
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