Restoration of SDA 1C Again!!!
Sanjib_a
Posts: 62
Hi
I got a pair of SDA 1C. I would like to do a full restoration (cabinet side panel came out). I know there are lot of threads about this and I went through. I have a very good idea what to do.
I have one question regarding securing the magnet. I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?
Any help would be great!
Thank you!
I got a pair of SDA 1C. I would like to do a full restoration (cabinet side panel came out). I know there are lot of threads about this and I went through. I have a very good idea what to do.
I have one question regarding securing the magnet. I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?
Any help would be great!
Thank you!
Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
Comments
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Use Loctite Power Grab or JB Weld. Loctite red is for screws and bolts.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Use Loctite Power Grab or JB Weld. Loctite red is for screws and bolts.
Okay, thanks!Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Got all the Sonicaps and Vishay Mills resistors today and will get the pair of Gimpods tomorrow. Here is a pic of the transformed side panels
!Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Those panels look very good.
Keep us posted about your progress.Family Room, Innuos Statement streamer (Roon Core) with Morrow Audio USB cable to McIntosh MC 2700 pre with DC2 Digital Audio Module; AQ Sky XLRs to CAT 600.2 dualmono amp, Morrow Elite Speaker Cables to NOLA Baby Grand Reference Gold 3 speakers. Power source for all components: Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One with dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel.
Exercise Room, Innuos Streamer via Cat 6 cable connection to PS Audio PerfectWave MkII DAC w/Bridge II, AQ King Cobra RCAs to Perreaux PMF3150 amp (fully restored and upgraded by Jeffrey Jackson, Precision Audio Labs), Supra Rondo 4x2.5 Speaker Cables to SDA 1Cs (Vr3 Mods Xovers and other mods.), Dreadnaught with Supra Rondo 4x2.5 interconnect cables by Vr3 Mods. Power for each component from dedicated 20 amp circuit to main panel, except Innuos Statement powered from Silver Circle Audio Pure Power One. -
One speaker cabinet is done. Third pic looks different color due to flash from different angle!
!Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Beautiful veneer work SanjibHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
westmassguy wrote: »Beautiful veneer work Sanjib
Thank you, Dave! I put the vinyl film on them.Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
westmassguy wrote: »Beautiful veneer work Sanjib
Thank you, Dave! I put the vinyl film on them.
Still looks niceHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Fooled me. Looks like real wood veneer. You did a very nice job. Let us know how you like the sound after recap.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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That veneer project came out great.
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Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!
Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?
Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
I'm sorry, the front to sides and especially the sides to top and bottom transitions are all wrong.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!
Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?
The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.
Hope this helps.
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Good eyes Ivan, those gaskets are all wrong too.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!
Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?
The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.
Hope this helps.
I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
ThanksPolk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!
Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?
The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.
Hope this helps.
I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
Thanks
Dynamat looks good. No need to cover it all a little goes a long way.
Do you understand what I'm trying to convey here with the gasket? -
Loctite, Mortite, Dynamat in one set of drivers and passive woofer done. Waiting for Dave's Gimpod!
Do I need to put more dynamat on empty spaces in 4 drivers?
The gaps in the gasket on those drivers and passive are going to allow too much space for air leakage for an air tight seal. When you apply the gasket material always go over the gasket already applied then cut through both diagonally. That way both back each other so as not to have even the tiniest gap that could compromise the seal.
I leave a bit of the adhesive paper on the last bit so not to stick to the already applied gasket. Then when you cut through both with a sharp razor you peel up the scrap piece under and finish applying(after paper removal) up to your cut edge and then you'll have a much better seal. Your gasket edges should never end at a screw hole as it also can allow leakage. Always end on solid rim, to make holes just heat up either your soldering iron and poke through or a something you can get hot and hold on to that is round to melt through the gasket just barely smaller than the screw. That way you have good gasket around the screw that will seal well.
Always make your gasket one piece never more than one to make the journey around the driver, once again it will compromise the seal of the gasket.
Hope this helps.
I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
Thanks
Dynamat looks good. No need to cover it all a little goes a long way.
Do you understand what I'm trying to convey here with the gasket?
Thank you!Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
You need just enough dynomat to dampen the ringing of the baskets. tap on them with your fingernail before and it will "sing" after it will just make a thumping sound. Good enough. I actually went around my cabinet looking for the same thing and found a couple of spots that dynomat helped. Most won't think that's necessary but I'm very happy with the results I got.Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
As is so often the case here, "Loctite Red" is far too ambiguous. Specify a product number so we know WHICH "red" product from Loctite you actually mean. I bet Loctite has a dozen products with red color.I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?
Taking a wild guess, you mean "271, red high-strength anaerobic thread locker"; and if the magnet was entirely removed from the basket and the pole piece, that's probably a fine adhesive to re-glue them. I used a competing product from 3M; (TL71) essentially the same thing as 271 to reattach the magnet that broke off of a MW6509 that I stupidly dropped on the floor.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Threadlocker-TL71/?N=5002385+3293241418&preselect=8710676+8710815+8745694&rt=rud
But unless the magnet has entirely detached, that's probably a poor choice. There's another thread where another Loctite thread-locker was suggested, a thin-bodied one that "wicks" into position. (Loctite 290 "Green") I have no experience with that product and speaker magnets.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184463/a-different-twist-on-the-magnet-gluing-process#latest
We see the same thing when folks talk about "Power Grab", there's multiple formulations, the formulations sold this year may not be the same as the formulations sold five years ago, and some of those formulations are entirely wrong for our magnet-gluing/reinforcing application. But folks here jabber on about "Power Grab" as if there was only one product by that name.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/170827/loctite-henkel-power-grab-for-speaker-magnets/p1 -
As is so often the case here, "Loctite Red" is far too ambiguous. Specify a product number so we know WHICH "red" product from Loctite you actually mean. I bet Loctite has a dozen products with red color.I am planning to use Locktite Red. Should I just randomly put in three to four places along the joint of magnet or there is any preferred way to do that?
Taking a wild guess, you mean "271, red high-strength anaerobic thread locker"; and if the magnet was entirely removed from the basket and the pole piece, that's probably a fine adhesive to re-glue them. I used a competing product from 3M; (TL71) essentially the same thing as 271 to reattach the magnet that broke off of a MW6509 that I stupidly dropped on the floor.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Threadlocker-TL71/?N=5002385+3293241418&preselect=8710676+8710815+8745694&rt=rud
But unless the magnet has entirely detached, that's probably a poor choice. There's another thread where another Loctite thread-locker was suggested, a thin-bodied one that "wicks" into position. (Loctite 290 "Green") I have no experience with that product and speaker magnets.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184463/a-different-twist-on-the-magnet-gluing-process#latest
We see the same thing when folks talk about "Power Grab", there's multiple formulations, the formulations sold this year may not be the same as the formulations sold five years ago, and some of those formulations are entirely wrong for our magnet-gluing/reinforcing application. But folks here jabber on about "Power Grab" as if there was only one product by that name.
https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/170827/loctite-henkel-power-grab-for-speaker-magnets/p1
I don't think magnet has moved. I used this one in three places along the joint.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Power-Grab-Ultimate-9-fl-oz-Construction-Adhesive-1989550/206210490Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
IYou need just enough dynomat to dampen the ringing of the baskets. tap on them with your fingernail before and it will "sing" after it will just make a thumping sound. Good enough. I actually went around my cabinet looking for the same thing and found a couple of spots that dynomat helped. Most won't think that's necessary but I'm very happy with the results I got.
I have previously used Dynamat in the same on my CRS+ and I am very happy with the result.Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
I would also like to put two strips (4"x12") of this sonic barries. Will it be good or bad?
https://www.amazon.com/Guteauto-Deadening-Insulation-Automotive-Soundproofing/dp/B07P5KQ9LV/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=sound+barrier+pad&qid=1582255770&sr=8-43Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Behind the drivers on the back cabinet inside wall.Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
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That is seriously the wrong stuff. Look for Blackhole 5.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Or if you can't find BH5 I've used this with good results.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-1-4-3-layer-acoustic-sound-damping-material-with-psa-18-x-24--260-535Gustard X26 Pro DAC
Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)
There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus -
[/quote]
I will redo the gasket. What is wrong with Dynamat?
Thanks[/quote]
Dynamat looks good. No need to cover it all a little goes a long way.
Do you understand what I'm trying to convey here with the gasket? [/quote]
Sorry, I missed your last question. Yes, I understood and corrected it.
Thanks!Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
I would also like to put two strips (4"x12") of this sonic barries. Will it be good or bad?
https://www.amazon.com/Guteauto-Deadening-Insulation-Automotive-Soundproofing/dp/B07P5KQ9LV/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=sound+barrier+pad&qid=1582255770&sr=8-43
Do not use this.^^^^^
That is like dynamat and is the wrong stuff.
Blackhole 5 at
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/blackhole-p-50?sort=6a
Or the sonic barrier is the correct stuff to use. Yes it goes on the back of the cabinet behind the midwoofers only. You still use the poly fil as well. Poly fil goes right back to where it was.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-1-4-3-layer-acoustic-sound-damping-material-with-psa-18-x-24--260-535 -
I would also like to put two strips (4"x12") of this sonic barries. Will it be good or bad?
https://www.amazon.com/Guteauto-Deadening-Insulation-Automotive-Soundproofing/dp/B07P5KQ9LV/ref=sr_1_43?keywords=sound+barrier+pad&qid=1582255770&sr=8-43
Do not use this.^^^^^
That is like dynamat and is the wrong stuff.
Blackhole 5 at
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/blackhole-p-50?sort=6a
Or the sonic barrier is the correct stuff to use. Yes it goes on the back of the cabinet behind the midwoofers only. You still use the poly fil as well. Poly fil goes right back to where it was.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-1-1-4-3-layer-acoustic-sound-damping-material-with-psa-18-x-24--260-535
What is the difference between sonic barriers and sound absorber?Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707 -
Here is another one that you might consider. Some here have expressed the opinion that it is good and I believe the general feeling I have gotten here is that most think Blackhole5 and Norez are superior to the Sonic Barrier. The mfg of the Norez gives a pretty good explanation of why they think their product is superior. They don't actually give the thickness of their damping layer (the one right against the adhesive) but they say it is twice as thick as Blackhole5's damping layer. I just measured my Blackhole5 and the damping layer is about 0.047" fwiw.
http://gr-research.com/norez24x27sheet.aspx
I haven't done the mod yet to my 7Bs because I need another piece of Blackhole5, which is what I decided to go with. Very expensive though.George / NJ
Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
Onkyo A-8017 integrated
Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
iFi nano iDSD DAC
iPurifier3
iDefender w/ iPower PS
Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
