SDA 2B options

13

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,130
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    I noticed that MW 6510 are listed as an optional swap for the MW 6503 for the "TL" mod on gimpods diagram. Are there any +/- for that step? It would be pretty simple for me since I only have the 2B's.

    That is not an upgrade, simply an option if you have a damaged 6503. Even then, you'd have to change the drivers in both speakers to match. Forget you had the notion.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 18
    F1nut wrote: »
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    I noticed that MW 6510 are listed as an optional swap for the MW 6503 for the "TL" mod on gimpods diagram. Are there any +/- for that step? It would be pretty simple for me since I only have the 2B's.

    That is not an upgrade, simply an option if you have a damaged 6503. Even then, you'd have to change the drivers in both speakers to match. Forget you had the notion.
    Okay, I will have to keep an eye out for at least one 6503. Maybe I can take a shot at replacing the surround on the one I have that is damaged.

    JB Weld on the magnets is done. Crossovers are back in and RD0198s are installed. Everything is connected internally. Right side speaker is completely back together. I will put the left side back together with the exception of the MW6503 which is still drying. I will also get living room all set up so I can just install the amp and press play...

    I'm mildly excited to be sure.I will wait to do the spikes and hurricane nuts. I was expecting the today, but oh well. I'll get to them soon enough.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,473
    edited July 18
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    5.8uf cap is in the circuit.
    m9bjbu4k6nu1.jpg

    You DID replace the other caps and resistors as well correct?

    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    Parasound Halo C-2 Pre/pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    No, I just added the 5.8uf cap and the jumper E to H. I understand that this is a compromise, but I am already way past my original budget. Also, I have not really listened to these speakers at all. I am sure they are going to be a big improvement o er what I had before. For now this should work for me.

    Do you think I should expect a big improvement when I do replace the rest of the components? I will likely as not build a the crossovers from scratch with fresh boards and components at that point anyway.
  • motorhead43026motorhead43026 Posts: 3,333
    edited July 19
    Are these Sda2b's pin blade or blade blade?. What is the purpose of the jumper. And is iit dependant on what interconnect cable is used wether a jumper is necessary?
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; Cables ZU Mission IC's, SC and power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; S60'S, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb then dumber.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    they are blade blade. Looking at the schematics the jumper completes the circuit IF you solder the cap into the position marked C5. I think most people skip the jumper and just solder the cap strait to the pad marked H. Either way should work fine. I used the jumper to Void having the Cap lead running under, or over the lead for the inductor that is in that area on the board.. Polks schematics do not show the jumper, gimpods instructions do. I know gimpods instructions are for his board, buteverything seemed to match. Its early, does what I am saying make any sense?
    kma6cq4k2z0c.jpg
  • motorhead43026motorhead43026 Posts: 3,333
    Ok I get it now, I ran my leads under the inductor.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; Cables ZU Mission IC's, SC and power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; S60'S, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb then dumber.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    Well the parasound amp arrived today so I finally had a chance to listen to these speakers with adequate power. They sound great! I am hopeful things will improve as the RD0198 and new Cap settle down over the next few weeks. Overall I am very satisfied. I will need to find a center channel to go with them for TV and movies, and an amp to power it.

    I can tell that the HK AVR is definately the weak point. Not terrible, but definately holding things back. I will try to exercise some patience looking for a deal on a pre, hoping to get luck sooner rather than later.

    Thanks to all for their input here. Another satisfied customer...
  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 78
    How do you know the hk is holding your system back? Just curious.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,130
    It's an AVR, not known for being good pre-amps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 23
    How do you know the hk is holding your system back? Just curious.

    So, other than the general "jack of all trades master of none" factor...
    1. Thie AVR is old enough that it does not have any HDMI inputs.
    2. The crossover is not variable for the Sub output (100 hz or nothing). I would like to cross somewhere around 50 hz to start,see what sounds best ultimately.
    3. It does have a single optical input labeled AC3, but I suspect the DAC is not very good by today's standard.
    4. It does not have any video output that can connect to my tv and the on screen menu is required to change any setting.

    I'm sure there are more problems. It was always going to be a compromise, it's just more of a compromise than I realized, despite warnings from you all. I will also need to address my source material and devices before the amp and speakers will come close to living up to their potential. Currently I use my laptop connected through HDMI on my TV. Less than ideal, I have s few portable DACs that I may employ, but ultimately I need to find a decent DAC for home use.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,473
    edited July 23
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    Parasound Halo C-2 Pre/pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,473
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    Parasound Halo C-2 Pre/pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    No doubt noth would sound better than what I have, but...
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Also no HDMI, no remote. Not sure this would help overall, but I might be able to get it super cheap.
    quote="audioluvr;c-2521995"]And a VERY nice pre...
    https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/d/escondido-rogue-audio-99-magnum-tube/6927880039.html[/quote]
    Lots of stuff like this between here and LA, but this appears to be 2 channel and if I go this route I think I will be looking for a 5.q min upgrade in a few weeks

    Loving the suggestions, the HDMI seems to be a serious limiting factor. I am wondering if my priorities are AFU?
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 1,079
    edited July 23
    Navy_Goat wrote: »

    Loving the suggestions, the HDMI seems to be a serious limiting factor. I am wondering if my priorities are AFU?

    Lyrics
    Did you ever have to make up your mind?
    And pick up on one and leave the other behind?
    It's not often easy and not often kind.
    Did you ever have to make up your mind?

    Did you ever have to finally decide?
    And say yes to one and let the other one ride?
    There's so many changes and tears you must hide.
    Did you ever have to finally decide?

    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,473
    edited July 23
    I don't use HDMI in my HT setup for anything except running from my source to my TV. I run a HQ optical from my TV to my receiver so no matter what source goes into the TV I only have one digital output going to my Pre/Pro. That way the video source isn't affected by passing through the (AVR) /Pre/Pro and I use a Harmony remote to run it all. Not saying it's right but sure makes cabling easier. May not be an ideal option if your TV/Projector isn't near the source though
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    Parasound Halo C-2 Pre/pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    audioluvr wrote: »
    I don't use HDMI in my HT setup for anything except running from my source to my TV. I run a HQ optical from my TV to my receiver so no matter what source goes into the TV I only have one digital output going to my Pre/Pro. That way the video source isn't affected by passing through the (AVR) /Pre/Pro and I use a Harmony remote to run it all. Not saying it's right but sure makes cabling easier. May not be an ideal option if your TV/Projector isn't near the source though

    that's how I am running things now. all the sources to the TV with one optical signal running to the HK.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    A CSI40 center channel just came up for sale near me. I have read that it is the replacement for the CS400 that has been recommended. Would it match or should I keep waiting?

    https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/d/oceanside-polk-audio-center-speaker/6941059447.html
  • polrbehrpolrbehr Posts: 2,428
    edited July 26
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    A CSI40 center channel just came up for sale near me. I have read that it is the replacement for the CS400 that has been recommended. Would it match or should I keep waiting?

    https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/d/oceanside-polk-audio-center-speaker/6941059447.html

    For less than a Ulysses, it seems like a pretty good deal. As long as the rough sides can be
    out of sight, anyway...
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 30
    Now that I have had a few days to listen to these fantastic speakers I have some questions about the compromises I have to make with placement. I have been experimenting with them to evaluate what sounds best, ie "let your ears tell you" where they need to be. So far that answer seems to change depending much more than the speaker location. I think Music selection and Sub settings are playing a larger role than I have experienced in the past. My AVR offers the typical Small or Large settings for each speakers set (Front/Center/Surround). Once any is set to small the LFE output is crossed over at 100hz with no adjustment. This sucks and is causing some of my issues. The speakers seem to sound best using the xover for some music and with the xover turned off for others.

    I drew this up to give you all a general idea of the larger area where they are set up.
    17fazpgwhiag.png



    I have taken a bunch of measurements with a tape measure, here are the results as the speakers sit now.
    The writing on this may be too small depending on how it uploads?
    cxaxapyyqgh2.png


    Right side in detail
    vda3ohqcivg4.png


    Left side in detail
    io88687r61ea.png


    I have also experimented with moving the speakers back toward the wall leaving 5-6" behind them. Each time I have measured from both back corners to ensure they are sitting square and check them with a level to ensure they are not leaning in any direction.

    So on to the questions:
    1. Do you think backspacing or sitting at least 2" in front of everything is more important?
    2. I cant really move the right speaker any farther from the boundary wall without putting the left speaker in the front hall. I will be looking to find a better solution for the entertainment unit which will allow the speakers to be closer together, but doing that will push the speakers to one side of the room, since there is no boundary wall on the left side. I would be interested in your thoughts about this compromise in general...

    Overall I am happy with the sound, but I find that each set up that I have tried seems to sound better for some types of music and worse for others. Currently I have very recessed mid range, guitar, percussion and some vocals. I think that was cleared up when I had the speakers closer (5 3/4") to the back wall and I was not using the crossover on the AVR.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,943
    Well IME almost 14" off the wall sacrifices a lot of the bass. My experience 4-8" off the wall has worked best for me.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Well IME almost 14" off the wall sacrifices a lot of the bass. My experience 4-8" off the wall has worked best for me.
    So you would advocate 5" even though that would put the front of the speakers 5-6" behind the front of the entertainment unit?

    The entertainment unit is 25ish inches tall so it sits well below the level of the mid drivers and tweeters.

  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    All of this makes me want to go out and get the test equipment required to take actual measurements of frequency response and SPL. HMMM, worth thinking about.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,130
    Your ears are the best test equipment money can't buy.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,297
    Exactly. Place the speakers where they sound best within the confines of your room.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 2,578
    Gotta work with what you gotta work with.

    I will say once I removed EVERYTHING between the speakers it was quite a difference. Granted not all can do that and they are still in too small of a room so I deal with reflections and nulls in bass from overloading.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
    " I have always had a champange taste with a beer budget" - Rick88
    "Just because the thread is getting views don't mean much .. I like a good train wreck doesn't mean i want to be in one..." - pitdogg2
    "Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know." - heiney9
    "Audiophiles are the male equivalent of cat ladies." - Audiokarma Member
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,473
    Not sure I follow your room design but it looks like when you watch TV you're turning your head 90 degrees from the sofa... That's gotta be uncomfortable. Why not put the SDA's on each side of the window directly in front of the sofa and then use something else for your entertainment system such as some smaller bookshelf speakers on stands.
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    Parasound Halo C-2 Pre/pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 30
    audioluvr wrote: »
    Not sure I follow your room design but it looks like when you watch TV you're turning your head 90 degrees from the sofa... That's gotta be uncomfortable. Why not put the SDA's on each side of the window directly in front of the sofa and then use something else for your entertainment system such as some smaller bookshelf speakers on stands.

    You make a great point. I can tell you my wife would not like the cut of your jib!

    Life is all about compromise and this is the best my wife and I can do with this living room. She cant stand having the couch in front of the TV for some reason that I both don't understand and have learned to live with. I should have mentioned this before, I just drag a chair off the opposite wall from the couch and stick it right where it needs to be when I am listening to music.
    1anlafjr2159.jpg

    Less than ideal, but it's this sort of willingness to adapt and overcome that has maintained domestic tranquility around here for the better part of 24 years.

    The wall with a window continues into a sliding glass door. Also I am pretty sure the mere suggestion that I might put the TV and Speakers on different walls might cause a riot around here.
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 12,297
    Sometimes I wish I had gotten married when younger, but when I read threads like this I am glad I didn't. If I did then I would be divorced. :)
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin X1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on preamp, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,156
    edited July 31
    Hey, Bud...
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    You make a great point. I can tell you my wife would not like the cut of your jib!
    .

    That quote is for you! 🙂
Sign In or Register to comment.

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!