SDA 2B options

Navy_Goat

teekay0007 wrote: »

Hey, Bud...

Navy_Goat wrote: »

You make a great point. I can tell you my wife would not like the cut of your jib!
.

That quote is for you! 🙂

LOL, you can blame it on...

The beer scene here in San Diego is off the chain!

Navy_Goat

audioluvr wrote: »

@Navy_Goat Here's a good pre in your neck of the woods!
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/ele/d/jamul-anthem-avm-2-preamp/6920957195.html

I have replaced my old AVR with a Marantz NR1509, I know it's still another AVR. The Anthem AVM 2 above is still for sale and the guy is willing to take 100 bucks for it. I know I will have to get another amp for the cc (I also picked up the 400i that was FS here although it needs work before it will be ready).

I would loose all the advanced sound processing of the Marantz, but do you all think it's worth it?

audioluvr

$100 for a Pre/Pro that retailed for $3,000 is a killer deal. If it functions properly and you have output on all channels you will be not be disappointed. Buy it and if you don't like it I'm sure someone here would jump at taking it off your hands.

motorhead43026

I love Anthem.

pitdogg2

motorhead43026 wrote: »

I love Anthem.

Yea one of the better songs Rush put out

Navy_Goat

audioluvr wrote: »

$100 for a Pre/Pro that retailed for $3,000 is a killer deal. If it functions properly and you have output on all channels you will be not be disappointed. Buy it and if you don't like it I'm sure someone here would jump at taking it off your hands.

That is what I was thinking, I made him a standing 100 dollar offer and he got back to me recently. Testing it will be a PITA and he may be difficult about that part. His add says an old roommate left it to cover back rent so there is a real good chance it is not functioning properly. I doubt he will have the equipment required to test it. I am hoping he is willing to work around that difficulty. Time will tell.

Navy_Goat

What is everyone's feeling of the pros/cons of csi40 vs cs400i?

Navy_Goat

Well the Anthem deal doesnt seem to be going through. The guy is acting sketchy and doesnt understand why I would want to at least see that it works. Oh well...

I did find these for sale close by for a song.


5.) Polk Audio 7.1 "Reference Theater" Surround Sound Speakers (Used condition, some peeling vinyl delamination and scratches in places, but sound great!) -
Includes:
*PSW100 Subwoofer - one of the speaker wire connectors is loose (Consider this as free with purchase of speaker set).
* 2x RT16 Tall Floor Standing Speakers
* 2x RT10 Floor Standing Speakers
* 2x RT3 Bookshelf Speakers
* CS10 Center Channel Speaker
* 4 x Yamaha small speakers (I just want to get rid of these. Consider them free with purchase- they work great.

Looks like some TLC will take care of 90% of the delam. ai know they will not be the end game set up, but I can put together a pretty good 5.1 for the game room.

I read that magnet shift is a problem with these so some glue is in order...

scubiesteve

I run my sda2b off of a Yammy AS701 and they sound incredible, we use this setup for everything. Amp has sub outs but don't have anything hooked up yet, I have a Oppo Bdp83 player for everything digital and I'm working on a Technics SL1200 for my vinyl as the yammy has a built in phono preamp. I don't think you need a center for movies, I had a 7.1 HT setup but the SDAs played great and instead of having two different setups we got rid of the 7.1, I don't even miss it to be honest.

TennMan

scubiesteve wrote: »

I don't think you need a center for movies,

You don't as long as you are able to sit in the center of the speakers. If you sit off to one side imaging is going to be lacking compared to a system with a center speaker.

scubiesteve

TennMan wrote: »

scubiesteve wrote: »

I don't think you need a center for movies,

You don't as long as you are able to sit in the center of the speakers. If you sit off to one side imaging is going to be lacking compared to a system with a center speaker.

and that would be why I think that, we sit directly in front of ours, thanks for the clarification

Navy_Goat

I purchased the rest of the Caps needed to complete the crossover refresh. Went with Sonicraft for the high side and Clarity on the low side. I did not go for the gimpod boards and space is going to be at a premium. I already had some spacers 3D printed to go in between the two 20uf caps, but looking at the board I may need to print another piece to get it to stand off from the circuit board?

Navy_Goat

Just finished drilling out he cabs and installing the H-Nuts I picked up last summer. Also replaced all the seals.

Crossovers will go with me to work for the soldering as I have access to much better equipment there.

Now its time to relax with some tiny bubbles and football....

Navy_Goat

Wow, that is a tight squeeze! I can certainly see why everyone recommends picking up a set of Gimpod boards.




A few pictures of the piece we printed to go in between the 20 uF caps.

pitdogg2

YEP

Navy_Goat

Back up and running in the living room. I look forward to hearing some improvement in SQ over the next few weeks. I should have listened to the 1C and 2Bs back to back, but i have been gone for a few days and then I put these back together and in the living room immediately. Maybe I will listen to them back to back some day.

Navy_Goat

Well, 30 hrs +/- in and I am really amazed by the improvement in both the quantity and quality of low end grunt that this simple crossover upgrade produced. Its really night and day. So far I am quite content to have the sub only handle HT LFE. That was not the case before this mod. I listen to a lot of electronic music which tends to need solid low end reproduction to sound right. At the moment I am 2.5 hours into an 8 hours set by John Digweed and I have no desire to turn the sub on. I am amazed!

One possible issue that I just stumbled across in another thread is C4. I was wondering about that small cap and after reading I am thinking I may have made a mistake leaving it in place. @F1nut described an echo effect when left in place. I will definitely have to get back into the speaker to remove it at some point.

Obviously I don't have the same experience as many hear with high end sound, but I don't identify an echo. Are my ears just that bad? This is a real possibility based on the level of noise I encounter at work regularly (from F18 engine testing to sitting 20ft under a landing VSTOL F35). I do have annual hear tests, but I don't know how the results there relate to critical listening.

F1nut

It's not an echo, it's undesirable artifacts.

Navy_Goat

So not dangerous to the speakers, just annoying...

Also, this sort of behavior may contribute to my hearing being less than stellar?

https://youtu.be/-QY_YMUtBx4

F1nut

No, it's not dangerous to your speakers. It's an added effect...an artificial air or space that one doesn't hear in live music. At first it seems kind of cool, but becomes annoying in short order.

Navy_Goat

I have a new question for the experts here. This set of 2Bs that I have is a transitional pair with the B/B interconnect socket. My reading here tells me they differ from the more common (and I gather desirable) P/B interconnect in two main ways:
1. 4 ohm rather than 6 ohm
2. can not use Dreadnaught A1 to connect a non-common ground amp

This is for sale locally
This is for sale locally

Would there be a way to combine this P/B with my crossovers to end up with an "updated" 2B with the same characteristics. It makes no sense to me that this would work, but I can find any reference to different drivers between B/B and P/B. Any difference would have to be in he crossover circuit, but why would you change the crossover if the drivers were staying the same. Help a Newb out....

F1nut

Both types of 2B's are 6 ohm nominal.

All you have to do to make your B/B 2B's capable of using the Dreadnought is connect a wire from the large blade connector to the negative binding post. Of course, you'll want do that on the back side of the binding post plate.

Navy_Goat

F1nut wrote: »

Both types of 2B's are 6 ohm nominal.

All you have to do to make your B/B 2B's capable of using the Dreadnought is connect a wire from the large blade connector to the negative binding post. Of course, you'll want do that on the back side of the binding post plate.

That makes sense. I must have misread something. Thanks for the clarification!

Navy_Goat

H-Nuts went in a week ago, at the time all I had was some 8-32 button head machine screws.

I really didnt like the way the looked at all.


Spent some time poking around on McMaster Carr and settled on some beveled 1" 8-32 course thread for the tweeters and zome 7/8" 8-32 cap machine screws for the drivers and PRs. I believe all are course thread.


I can find the links if anyone wants them, but I am on my phone now so I will have to add them later.

Navy_Goat

Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, 8-32 Thread Size, 7/8" Long, packs of 100
https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A198
Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, 8-32 Thread Size, 1" Long, packs of 50
https://www.mcmaster.com/91253A199

vader540is

Navy_Goat wrote: »

Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, 8-32 Thread Size, 7/8" Long, packs of 100
https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A198
Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, 8-32 Thread Size, 1" Long, packs of 50
https://www.mcmaster.com/91253A199

that looks awesome! thanks for the links! im gonna get some of those.

Navy_Goat

Well, I knocked the soldering out during my last underway. Buttoned everything up and immediately something was not right. I went back over everything and I found that i had mis-remembered the schematic resulting in incorrect placement of the 2.7 ohm resistor in the high section. I remembered using a jumper in the TL mod. I should have connected one of the C5 leads to point "H" instead it looks like I connected the resistor to point "E". I should have waited until I could look at the schematics, but I though I remembered the schematics. Internet was restricted to only .mil and .gov sites so I was flying somewhat blind. Stupid mistake!

That first mistake was compounded by one of the leads on the left channel mw6511 getting knocked off as I was reinstalling the speaker. The drivers were out to be dynamatted and facilitate installation of sound deadening material. As I reinstalled them I mush have moved the driver around too much knocking the connector off.

The end result......All the new caps on that channel are now reading open. Sucks! A bunch of rookie mistakes will cost me a few bucks and keep the 2B's out of service for a little while longer. I should have known better and I should have double checked everything before I fired them up. I am thankful that I didn't damage anything outside of the one speaker.

In the mean time I drug the RT16's out of my second room. I never sit in there anyway so no big deal. I connected them in the back side of my living room as a second 2 channel rig. I recently picked up a NAD 7175 from the mid 80's. That combo sounds pretty good! Certainly good enough to get me by for a week or two.




Slow and steady folks. I got a little ahead of myself and I am lucky more damage was not done.

Navy_Goat

2Bs were sorted a long time ago. I can't even remember what the problem was. Operator error I'm sure. All the RTs were sold on to a fiend and the NAD has been completely recapped. That NAD still surprises me, and sounds better every time I listen to it as the new components settle in.

The 2Btls will go back in to the main 2 channel set up while I recap and upgrade a set of SRS 2.3tl that I picked upa few months ago.

Navy_Goat

I had some coin racks made to go on top of these speakers. My friend got the color close and matched the shape of the speaker top pretty well. Overall I am happy with the end result.

stevep

That will help keep people from putting glasses on top of your speakers.