SDA 2B options

24

Comments

  • krazypolkkrazypolk Posts: 559
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    Well, one Parasound HCA 1500a will be on its way to my house as soon as @hochpt21
    ships it, maybe tomorrow if I'm lucky.
    F1nut wrote: »
    The TL upgrade uses the RD0198, which also requires the addition of a 5.8uF cap on the crossover. Worth every penny.

    Okay, RD0194 is the replacement for the OEM tweeter and better as well. The RD0198 is another step better but requires another mod to the Xover. Since both tweeters cost the same the only difference would be the Cap. Off to find a place to source the cap, then I will get that stuff on order. I can do the soldering at work as we have a pretty nice lab for that sort of thing.

    Slippery slope indeed.....

    Congratulations! You're getting a heck of an amp.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,886
    Everything you need except for spikes are here, http://www.soniccraft.com/
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    F1nut wrote: »
    Everything you need except for spikes are here, http://www.soniccraft.com/

    I'm glad you mention this. The speakers have some terrible looking felt stick on feet on them now. I will ber changing out for sure. I worry that spikes will go right through the laminate "flooring" in our living room. Would I use a set of hard rubber isolation pads like folks use on their couch legs on carpet?

    Thanks for the link!
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,886
    edited July 14
    Use spike floor discs under the spikes. These are decent enough spikes and come with the floor discs. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss4-bk-black-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-717
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 72
    edited July 14
    If your on a budget, I agree with what others have said, use the hk as a preamp for now. Upgrade when it makes sense. No need to go broke.

    I've been using a schiit vali for about a year now. Its primarily a head phone amp but it gets the job done. I would do speaker upgrades first then worry about the pre.


    *side note I do not recommend using a headphone amp as a pre. Having to disconnect and reconnect wires every-time you change your source is a slow path to madness.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 14
    Soniccraft offer "sonic matching" at three levels. Whats the consensus on this service, worth it (5 bucks or less) or snake oil?

    I think I will use the time waiting for the amp to arrive to take a good look inside both speaker to be sure everything looks as it should. My background is in electronic repair with most of my experience in the shop being with comm/nav components for Aircraft. I will have to channel my 25 year old self, but I think doing something will help with the waiting. visual inspection is allways the first step and even if I am not troubleshooting exactly, I would rather find potential problems now.
  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 72
    When testing do the push test first to make sure they are not leaking badly. Push in the passive radiator(hold) and see how long it takes the woofers to go back to a normal position. Should take at least 3 seconds.

    BTW just in case you hav'nt seen these yet.

    http://vr3mods.com/LCSDAUpgrade.php - a list of different sda upgrades

    http://www.vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf - The SDA handbook

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 42,886
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    Soniccraft offer "sonic matching" at three levels. Whats the consensus on this service, worth it (5 bucks or less) or snake oil?

    I think I will use the time waiting for the amp to arrive to take a good look inside both speaker to be sure everything looks as it should. My background is in electronic repair with most of my experience in the shop being with comm/nav components for Aircraft. I will have to channel my 25 year old self, but I think doing something will help with the waiting. visual inspection is allways the first step and even if I am not troubleshooting exactly, I would rather find potential problems now.

    Depends if you want exact values matched for each crossover, which I do.

    Always a good idea to see what's inside. While it is possible to fit the upgraded components on the original boards for the most part buying a set of Gimpod's crossover boards will make your life considerably easier.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    Okay, I will sum up the weekends progress this way:

    1. RD0198 tweeters ordered from Midwest Speaker Repair
    2. Matched set of 5.8uf gen I sonicap Capacitors ordered from Soniccraft
    3. New to me Parasound HCA 1500a purchased from @hochpt21 .
    4. IC cable purchased on fleabay (before I started this thread)

    I will start breaking them down for a good inspection this evening. Looking to clean everything up and make sure the internal parts all look to be in good condition. I will check for cold solder joints and other common damage caused by age. Once thats wrapped up I may try to restore the the wood veneer on the top and bottom of both sides.

    I think I will put a better set of speaker wires together. I have some 14ga standard Monster cable speaker with with banana plugs but I may want to get a braided pair or go to something better.

    At some point in the future I will need to order a few more items and I would be replacing all the components on the xovers would not be a bad idea.

    Big Thanks to everyone who took the time to read and respond here! You all went out of your way to point me in the right direction and I appreciate it a lot! I'm sure I will have many more questions to come, but I wanted to take a min to say thanks for the help.

    Time to pour a beer and grill up some Pollo Asada for my girls (wife, 14yo & 2 Cane Corso)

    Cheers,

    Caleb
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 1,061
    While you are working on the cabinets you might want to install hurricane nuts. Makes it easier to securely tighten down the drivers without worrying about stripping out the holes.
    @westmassguy has instructions for the best way to install them somewhere here on the forum. I can't seem to find them right now.
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    TennMan wrote: »
    While you are working on the cabinets you might want to install hurricane nuts. Makes it easier to securely tighten down the drivers without worrying about stripping out the holes.
    @westmassguy has instructions for the best way to install them somewhere here on the forum. I can't seem to find them right now.

    I think I should do the hurricane nuts and the spikes before I put everything back together. Do the mids have gaskets or is that only the radiators? What are the chances I will be able to reuse the gaskets?
  • motorhead43026motorhead43026 Posts: 3,306
    edited July 14
    As long as the gaskets are not torn by all means reuse them.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; Cables ZU Mission IC's, SC and power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; S60'S, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb then dumber.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,593
    Ice skates help
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    Well the inside look a lot better than the outside.
    Right Side
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    ex2yyt0ujpmv.jpg
    Left Side
    vdjit0607a0q.jpg
    osav06r1tmch.jpg
    esl83ncy687d.jpg
    It looks like one of the passive radiator gaskets was installed incorrectly by the factory resulting in a pinch and some stretching. Other than that I will be able to reuse all the gaskets. Even that one may be okay if I am careful.

    I need to read up on the method for removing the crossovers. Looks like everything is on a connector so provided they have not become brittle with age, I should be okay to take the to work for the soldering.

    I will have to pick up some different connectors when the RD0198s show up I think. At least that is what my reading tells me.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    Can someone point out a good step by step DIY for the crossover mod that I will have to do to support the RD0198 tweeters? I have looked but what i find is threads people have started to ask questions after they were done.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    pitdogg2 wrote: »

    Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
  • hauxonhauxon Posts: 135
    edited July 16
    I have a SDA 2B TL modded running of NAD C272 power amp. The RD0-198 tweeter makes the speaker sound more smooth and natural than the old SL2000. The mod is easy and I also disconnected the polyswitch protection.

    Not directly related to the speakers but I'd recommend getting a good quality DAC. Makes no sense spending money on the mod and power amp and then feeding it with a sound from a $5 DAC.
    SRS 1.2 TL | SDA 2B Studio TL | NAD M51 preamp/dac | NAD C272 power amp | Chromecast Audio | RoPieee Roon Raspberry Pi endpoint
  • teekay0007teekay0007 Posts: 2,153
    @Navy_Goat: Did you get the CS400i?
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    teekay0007 wrote: »
    @Navy_Goat: Did you get the CS400i?
    Not yet. it's still for sale as far as I know.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    What do you all think about this Outlaw Audio model975 preamp? Looks like a screaming deal, I am not familiar with the company though.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,379
    That's ok but I'd keep looking. May not be anything on the market near you at the moment but be patient. Maybe look outside your area like:

    https://eugene.craigslist.org/ele/d/parasound-halo-c1/6927850958.html

    https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ele/d/portland-anthem-pre-amp/6918258639.html
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    B&K Reference 50 Pre/Pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    audioluvr wrote: »
    That's ok but I'd keep looking. May not be anything on the market near you at the moment but be patient. Maybe look outside your area like:

    https://eugene.craigslist.org/ele/d/parasound-halo-c1/6927850958.html

    https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ele/d/portland-anthem-pre-amp/6918258639.html
    Patience is not my strong suit, but I hear what you are saying.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    @Navy_Goat IDK if anyone mentioned it to you yet but be sure you do not slip up and forget to GLUE THOSE MW MAGNETS ! In caps for a reason...Welcome 2 Club Polk !
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    I will pick up some JB Weld while I am out this evening to glue the magnets.

    I have discovered a small tear in one of the MW6503 drivers. It will need a recone sooner rather than later, is There any way to repair temporarily?

    I have the Caps and rd0198 as well as the IC cable, just waiting on the nuts and amp.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 17
    I have a question about the procedure for adding the cap. I read that it needs to go in the spot marked C5. I have also read there is a jumper that can/should to be installed Between E and H.

    Is the jumper needed?
    Where the heck is H? I suspect it is under something...
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,379
    You could use some Shoe Goo. I've used that to repair surrounds.
    Home System:
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    1000 Va Dreadnought- w/ WireWorld Mini-Eclipse cables
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    WireWorld Silver Eclipse IC's
    Cambridge Audio Azur 851N - DAC/Streamer
    B&K Reference 50 Pre/Pro
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    BLE-Design 16mm Power Cables
    Denon DVD 2900

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
    BluDenso - Bluetooth receiver/DAC
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    edited July 18
    5.8uf cap is in the circuit.
    m9bjbu4k6nu1.jpg
    The E to H jumper was done on the back side to prevent vibration caused damage to the coil.

    A few more odds and ends this evening before the hurricane nuts, spikes and more important the amplifier arrive tomorrow.
  • Navy_GoatNavy_Goat Posts: 61
    I noticed that MW 6510 are listed as an optional swap for the MW 6503 for the "TL" mod on gimpods diagram. Are there any +/- for that step? It would be pretty simple for me since I only have the 2B's.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,593
    edited July 18
    Navy_Goat wrote: »
    I noticed that MW 6510 are listed as an optional swap for the MW 6503 for the "TL" mod on gimpods diagram. Are there any +/- for that step? It would be pretty simple for me since I only have the 2B's.

    MW 6503 1.82 5.24 N 3.55 E - 3N/M 6.54 Ohms 29 Hertz

    MW 6510 1.39 6.32 N 3.41 E - 3N/M 6.57 Ohms 31 Hertz
    They are close but I do not know one single member here who ever said theirs came from the factory with a 6510... I've been here since 2009 so not long term by any means :smile:


    I would get rid of that nasty polyswitch as well, if those were mine. Replace with a .47 or .5 ohm resistor.
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