Simple sda 2b tl upgrade question

I am going to be purchasing parts for the tl upgrade soon for a pair of sda 2bs. I just wanted to make sure they will accept the upgrade. I'm 95% sure they are the 2bs because they have 1 tweeter, 2 woofers, 1 passive., wood caps, wrap around grill and a single crossover.

The only thing that makes me wonder if they would accept the upgrade is that they are the transitional version(blade/blade). Does this effect anything? What exactly allows for the TL upgrade? Is it the crossover, drivers or something else?
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Comments

  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,458
    edited November 2018
    The 2B's with a blade/blade interconnect cable have to use a single crossover board (which I believe all 2B's did, but am not 100 percent on that). Mine are also blade/blade, but accepted the TL upgrade with no problem. Make sure you buy and install the RD0-198's after doing the TL upgrade on the crossover boards.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • Thanks headrott that gives me some assurance.

    I know others have described it with other sda speakers but would you mind describing your experience before and after the upgrade and what caps(ie solen sonicap ect..) did you use?
  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,458
    I used Sonicaps and Mills resistors on my 2B (TL's). I am not sure Mills resistors are still made (or at least if they are made by the same company). I could definitely recommend Clarity Cap ESA's (or whatever modern version of the capacitors that are making) and Duelund Cast resistors. I prefer them over Sonicap and Mills as they are more detailed, but are not harsh at all, IMO. I used Clarity Cap ESA's and Duelund Cast resistors in my 2.3TL's.

    Just being able to use the RD0-198 tweeters will give you a warmer high end, and more detail than the RD0-194 tweeter. Either of the RD0 tweeters will be absolutely better than the SL-2000 tweeter, which is harsh and rough on the ears.

    Upgrading to the TL will allow you to use the RD0-198 tweeters (which as stated are more detailed and smoother than the RD0-194's (asa stated either of the RD0's are much much better than the SL-2000's).

    Do the TL upgrade with Clarity Caps and Duelund Cast resistors if you plan on using the 2B's as your main speakers. You won't regret it (after letting them burn in).
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • TennManTennMan Posts: 1,079
    I can recommend forum member westmassguy if you need someone to do the crossover upgrade for you. He does excellent work at a reasonable price. He will be able to answer all your questions about upgrading your blade/blade 2Bs.
    SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat · Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
  • FaustinFaustin Posts: 899
    I second TennMan's advice/suggestion.
  • Thanks for the advice though I want to do the work myself. I like feeling of ownership that I get when I've done the work.
  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,458
    Take your own advice @windstriker and do the work yourself (if you have enough electronic experience and proper equipment to get the job done well). You feel fulfilled doing the job yourself using the @gimpod crossover boards (purchased from @westmassguy) along with the caps and resistors. Let us know how it turns out!
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • agfrostagfrost Posts: 2,275
    Advice above is good. I also TL'd a pair of blade-blade 2Bs successfully and would strongly recommend getting a pair of gimpod boards for ease of assembly. Click around on his site to see suggested parts ordering and board layout for your 2Bs: http://gimpod.com/
    Jay
    SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Marantz DV-9500 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8
    Micro Seiki DQ-50 * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
    Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0
  • Not a lot of electronic experience but i done some here and there(monitor, turntable, ect). I've already removed the polyswitch. Never recaped though, I'm going to warm up with a recap of some old advents. I will think hard about getting the new gimpod board. Will keep y'all posted :)
  • headrottheadrott Posts: 5,458
    Not a lot of electronic experience but i done some here and there(monitor, turntable, ect). I've already removed the polyswitch. Never recaped though, I'm going to warm up with a recap of some old advents. I will think hard about getting the new gimpod board. Will keep y'all posted :)

    The gimpod boards are an absolute no-brainer. Buy them and do the recap with those; You will not regret it. Using sonicaps, clarity caps, etc. is up to you. I recommend Clarity Caps ESA (or whatever the new version of them is) and Duelund Cast resistors, but that is my opinion.
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • Before I modded my 2Bs they also had a blade/blade i/c. After all the mods they sound nothing like stock and besides the cost of x-overs> Larry;'s rings? new terminal cups> adding Nuetrik/Speakon connectors. The other stuff was very cheap. They also contained single x-over boards. Oh I went the standard way w/ the RDO- 194s.
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 78
    Hi again, Sorry to reopen a old thread but I thought I would give a update. So after my last post life got in the way and the upgrades were sadly postponed. I just finished a round of upgrades.

    Already had done last year:
    - Upgrade tweeter to rdo 194
    - removed polyswitch

    Included in this upgrade:
    -Cosmetic fixes(still a work in progress)
    -h nuts installed.
    -dynamated baskets.
    -used armacell for one of the passive radiators(didnt have a gasket at all for some reason)
    -one of the woofers had a pin sized whole in the surround so I put a new surround on it

    Reaction to this round of upgrade:
    The mids are definitely clearer and while i don't think I'm getting that much more bass but it does sound more refined and detailed. Very Happy so far.

    Next round will be(in a month or two):
    - Rdo 198 tweeter
    - gimpod board
    - new caps and resisters(sonicap/mills)
    This is the upgrade I'm most looking forward to

    Last round a few months later:
    Black hole 5

    Not sure if I will do any upgrades after this.

    if so any suggestions at this point? Other than h-nuts anything i can do to make a tighter seal? I think the push test is around 3 seconds defiantly better than it was. other than that one radiator all of the other original seals are fine.

    I will take pics when I do the crossover
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,967
    Please explain the put a new surround on it. Where did you get it and how'd ya do it?
    Thanks
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,143
    To the best of my knowledge there is no appropriate replacement surround available for Polk MWxxxx drivers. You'd be better off finding a used driver in good condition, IMO.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 78
    edited June 25
    So far i havnt found a mw6511 on ebay. The surround i found is a exact match for the original and the website specificaly mentions it as a mw6511 surround replacement. It seems to be doing a good job. The only diffrence i can tell is it doesnt have polk stamped on it. O and the replacement dustcap is a little see through.

    Here is the link let me know what yall think.

    https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/speaker-repair-kits/refoam-kits-by-brand/polk-audio-1-specialty-refoam-kits/polk-audio-6-5-inch-rubber-surround-kit-r6-1/

    I will take and post a pic of the repaired woofer when i get home.
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,967
    How did you get the old one off?
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,143
    Well, I'll be.....

    Looks like Midwest sees that there is money to be made on vintage Polk speakers. Good for them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ddogddog Posts: 213
  • Gerres26Gerres26 Posts: 501
    Thats a pretty big find as there are many of us with spare drivers that have a torn surround just sitting around collecting dust.
  • VSAT88VSAT88 Posts: 723
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    How did you get the old one off?

    What he said ^^^^^^^ ??
  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 78
    For those interested. Here is a pic of the repaired woofer(left one) and yes i need to replace those silver screws. Any ideas on where i can find some black ones?
    xs5ufmc31crg.jpg
    q0n5rj99bofk.jpg

    Removal of the old one involved a exacto knife and being very carful while cutting it off. Used goof off on the basket to get residue off.

    O one question. Any recomendations on speaker spikes. Preferably under 100 dollars for 8 but willing to consider over 100 dollar recomendations. Thanks
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 43,143
    Inexpensive and still decent, Dayton spikes. I like to use Loctite on the threads of the small tip piece.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • txcoastal1txcoastal1 Posts: 10,664
    Those came out great. Use black cap screws to replace the silver screws
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 14,967
    So is the glue like rubber/contact cement placed on both parts? I've done many foam drivers and would be open to this learning curve.
  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 78
    Ya I think the provided glue is similar to the foam ones if not the same. If i rember correctly you glue the surround to the woofer cone first wait a few hours then glue the surround to the basket. Honestly the process is very similar to the foam ones. Though when i redid my foamed my advents i didnt take off the dust cap or use shims.
  • verbverb Posts: 8,280
    For those interested. Here is a pic of the repaired woofer(left one) and yes i need to replace those silver screws. Any ideas on where i can find some black ones?
    xs5ufmc31crg.jpg
    q0n5rj99bofk.jpg

    Removal of the old one involved a exacto knife and being very carful while cutting it off. Used goof off on the basket to get residue off.

    O one question. Any recomendations on speaker spikes. Preferably under 100 dollars for 8 but willing to consider over 100 dollar recomendations. Thanks

    Nice job! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • verbverb Posts: 8,280
    Ya I think the provided glue is similar to the foam ones if not the same. If i rember correctly you glue the surround to the woofer cone first wait a few hours then glue the surround to the basket. Honestly the process is very similar to the foam ones. Though when i redid my foamed my advents i didnt take off the dust cap or use shims.

    Interesting. I have some spare PR's where the surround has small local areas of delamination.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, PASS ACA Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: , Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 Monoblocks, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
  • codycatalistcodycatalist Posts: 2,578
    Man I have like 3 or 4 MWs with bad surrounds. This is awesome.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

    "Temptation is the manifestation of desire which equals necessity." - Mikey081057
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  • windstrikerwindstriker Posts: 78
    So I have another update to my speakers I just downgraded them.

    Right after I originally purchased my sda 2bs from the original owner I upgraded the tweeters from the sl2000 to the RDO 194. I never listened to the 2000s long enough to get a feel for them. Well I just had to reinstall the 2000s because I blew one of my RDO 194s. Yikes I didn't realize how much better the RDO 194s are. After listening to a few songs with the sl2000 tweeters my ears are fatigued which I have never experienced with the RDO 194. They definently don't sound as smooth as the RDO 194. Ya i dont think im going to be able to live with the sl2000s for long.

    O well, I was already planing to upgrade to the 198s when i redid the crossover. I just may be doing that upgrade sooner than i expected 😃
  • ADJADJ Posts: 35
    Do the upgrade. You won't regret it.
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