Help with speakers for Dolby Atmos setup in a 5.1.2

crux666crux666 Posts: 8
Hello guys, im new on the forum, am only a novice in speakers and proper calibration. My setup is:

Polk Monitor 65T fronts (2)
Polk Signature S35 center (an upgrade from TSx150c, which i still got)
Polk TSi100 bookshelf surrounds (2)
BIC America F12 12-inch subwoofer
Onkyo TX-NR787 receiver (just upgraded from Yamaha RX-V475)
TCL 55R617 4k hdr tv

The chain of events is as follows, I had a Vizio 1080p tv with the yamaha and listed speakers, which worked magnificently. Then I upgraded to the TCL 55R617 tv, which i found out is not compatible with the yamaha receiver i had. A thorough look through forums informed me that the TCL and Yamaha have a "handshake" issue in which it would not pass through the propet audio formats and also make the tv screen flicker consistently after an hour of use. So i then sold the yamaha and got the Onkyo TX-NR787 two days ago. A significant upgrade over the yamaha. My yamaha being a 5.1 limited my options, but with this Onkyo 9.2 (9.1 really since the other sub input transfers the same signal to both) I'm able to do much more. My plan is to Bi-wire the front monitors and then with the remaining two channels purchase two add-on Dolby Atmos speakers, making it into a Bi-wired 5.1.2 system. Yet right now im at a loss as to which add-on speakers to get that would timbre match my current setup. There are the Onkyo SKH-410 being the cheapest option at $90, followed by the sonys SSCSE addons at $160, then the NHT Atmos addons at $200 ($100 each). Which is where my budget stops.

If anyone may give me some insight as to what are my best options for this? Or what speakers may i add that are in my $200 budget, i would highly appreciate it. Thanks.

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,428
    I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • tonybtonyb Posts: 30,874
    NHT would be the closest match, but remember it's an atmos speaker, just ambient sounds will come out of them so timber matching isn't all that important.

    I'd say save the coin for another upgrade.
    HT SYSTEM-2 channel
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Dynaudio Audience 72
    Polk FX500 surrounds
    Cary xciter dac
    Cullen modded Sonos
    Joule la-100 pre
    B&k Ref 4420 amp

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Analysis plus crystal oval ic's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    B&k 1430
    Tad 803 speakers
  • crux666crux666 Posts: 8
    F1nut wrote: »
    I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.

    oxiu7co14p84.png

    Yes, you are right, i meant to say bi-amp. But i do not understand what do you mean by that an AVR cannot do it? In the attached screenshot of the NR787 it clearly shows how one may do so, as well as right there on the amp itself.
  • crux666crux666 Posts: 8
    tonyb wrote: »
    NHT would be the closest match, but remember it's an atmos speaker, just ambient sounds will come out of them so timber matching isn't all that important.

    I'd say save the coin for another upgrade.

    Ahh i see, thats good to know. Then if not atmos, what kind of upgrade may i do where i may utilize the remaining two channels? Or perhaps something i may unaware of
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,768
    Bi-amping with an AVR is just marketing. You have ONE power supply for everything. You are just trading power, It's like putting a splitter on a garden hose and trying to fill a pool quicker. It's the same amount of water. For Bi-Amping you would need a separate amp(s). Best to just run full range and replace the brass jumpers on the speakers with good speaker wire.


    Right now it looks like you have a good 5.1 system. Yes you can add ATMOS speakers and make it 5.1.2. Just remember every time you add more speakers that drains more power from your ONE power supply.

    In HT systems it is best to try and match all your speakers to the same manufacture and product line. For surrounds and effect speakers it does not matter that much. Most AVR come with good calibration programs that will EQ them in the system.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    4 Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 5,254
    crux666 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.

    oxiu7co14p84.png

    Yes, you are right, i meant to say bi-amp. But i do not understand what do you mean by that an AVR cannot do it? In the attached screenshot of the NR787 it clearly shows how one may do so, as well as right there on the amp itself.

    Like @mrloren said, it’s marketing, no more. You are of course free to do as you please, but there will be not sonic benefits, perhaps even sonic deficits.
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; B&K TX4430; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5; LG UP870 4K BDP; NVidia ShieldTV
    ;
    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Parasound HCA-1000A, PSB Imagine B, NHT Super One CI surrounds, Martin Logan Dynamo (original), Squeezebox Touch
  • crux666crux666 Posts: 8
    mrloren wrote: »
    Bi-amping with an AVR is just marketing. You have ONE power supply for everything. You are just trading power, It's like putting a splitter on a garden hose and trying to fill a pool quicker. It's the same amount of water. For Bi-Amping you would need a separate amp(s). Best to just run full range and replace the brass jumpers on the speakers with good speaker wire.

    Right now it looks like you have a good 5.1 system. Yes you can add ATMOS speakers and make it 5.1.2. Just remember every time you add more speakers that drains more power from your ONE power supply.

    In HT systems it is best to try and match all your speakers to the same manufacture and product line. For surrounds and effect speakers it does not matter that much. Most AVR come with good calibration programs that will EQ them in the system.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    crux666 wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.

    Like @mrloren said, it’s marketing, no more. You are of course free to do as you please, but there will be not sonic benefits, perhaps even sonic deficits.

    That was quite a vivid example with the garden hose, thank you for the explanation. Now that my bi-amp plan is debunked and over with, and my atmos idea is also on the brink of being annulled, I'm left with little to work with. As for the wire, I've been using for past 5 years mediabridge 16awg wire topped with Sewell direct SW-29863 deadbolt banana plugs. What kind of speaker wire would be an enhancement to my current wire/plugs?
  • crux666crux666 Posts: 8
    I did a intro search into what replacing the jumpers acrually means/entails, and from my limited search, i found basically it's deuwx81nk0ao.jpg

    Which is a great idea actually, which ones would be good to go with?
  • mrlorenmrloren Posts: 1,768
    I made mine with 10AWG Furez and Audioquest spades
    aooyuhuexybk.jpg

    That Media Bidge wire is not that great @ 16AWG. I find the starter wire to be Monoprice/Amazon Basic 12awg. You can go up from there. Doug's Furez is darn good wire https://douglasconnection.com/Raw-Speaker-Cable_c33.htm Doug's a forum member and gives discounts to fellow members. I went from the Furez to Audioquest Type 4.

    Audio Advisor has "No frills" AQ wire for a good price https://www.audioadvisor.com/products.asp?dept=26#/filter:brand:AudioQuest$25C2$25AE

    I'm currently using AQ Type 4 for my front 3 speakers and have Monoprice 14awg going to my surrounds and Belden 16awg to the ceiling speakers. In my bedroom HT I have Furez for the front 3 and 14awg Monoprice to the surrounds. Both systems sound great.

    One thing is on this forum. We will help you spend all your money. Once done you will have an empty bank account and an awesome HT.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.

    Family Room:
    Samsung UN60H,
    Denon AVR-X4400H, Emotiva XPA3 GEN3
    Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM, Sony DVP-NS3100ES, WD Live HUB.
    Main: Polk Signature S60
    Center: Polk CSi-A6
    Front High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT
    Surrounds: Polk S15
    Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5

    Bed Room;
    Sony KDF-E42A10,
    Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270
    Main: Polk Signature S20
    Center: Polk Signature S35
    Rear: Polk R15
    Sub: HSU STF-2

    Working Warehouse;
    Sony 2100ES
    4 Polk RTi4 about 15' up the wall
    Old sony 12" Sub
    Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • crux666crux666 Posts: 8
    mrloren wrote: »
    That Media Bidge wire is not that great @ 16AWG. I find the starter wire to be Monoprice/Amazon Basic 12awg. You can go up from there. Doug's Furez is darn good wire https://douglasconnection.com/Raw-Speaker-Cable_c33.htm Doug's a forum member and gives discounts to fellow members. I went from the Furez to Audioquest Type 4.

    One thing is on this forum. We will help you spend all your money. Once done you will have an empty bank account and an awesome HT.

    Ditto on that haha. I was unaware that good wiring can get so darn expensive. Yet some necessary changes must be done. Thanks for the eye opener on that one. Think ill go with these spades I found on ebay they seem to be from a reputable enough seller. As for the wires I'm gonna replace the fronts + center, and the sorrounds will leave be, as they are too much of a hassle to even touch lol. A question, if I leave the 16awg on the sorrounds and put 12/14awg on the rest, that would be alright? and also, i ran across so called terminal caps for the receiver, is that a thing or just a gimmick?
  • crux666crux666 Posts: 8
    edited March 10
    nvm about the ebay spades, will do it myself, with the help of Furez 10awg and Furez SP8 WP38NP Bare Copper Spade. Then for speaker cables will fashion out of Furez 14awg and sewell deadbolt banana plugs. its alright?


    Post edited by crux666 on
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