Help with speakers for Dolby Atmos setup in a 5.1.2
Hello guys, im new on the forum, am only a novice in speakers and proper calibration. My setup is:
Polk Monitor 65T fronts (2)
Polk Signature S35 center (an upgrade from TSx150c, which i still got)
Polk TSi100 bookshelf surrounds (2)
BIC America F12 12-inch subwoofer
Onkyo TX-NR787 receiver (just upgraded from Yamaha RX-V475)
TCL 55R617 4k hdr tv
The chain of events is as follows, I had a Vizio 1080p tv with the yamaha and listed speakers, which worked magnificently. Then I upgraded to the TCL 55R617 tv, which i found out is not compatible with the yamaha receiver i had. A thorough look through forums informed me that the TCL and Yamaha have a "handshake" issue in which it would not pass through the propet audio formats and also make the tv screen flicker consistently after an hour of use. So i then sold the yamaha and got the Onkyo TX-NR787 two days ago. A significant upgrade over the yamaha. My yamaha being a 5.1 limited my options, but with this Onkyo 9.2 (9.1 really since the other sub input transfers the same signal to both) I'm able to do much more. My plan is to Bi-wire the front monitors and then with the remaining two channels purchase two add-on Dolby Atmos speakers, making it into a Bi-wired 5.1.2 system. Yet right now im at a loss as to which add-on speakers to get that would timbre match my current setup. There are the Onkyo SKH-410 being the cheapest option at $90, followed by the sonys SSCSE addons at $160, then the NHT Atmos addons at $200 ($100 each). Which is where my budget stops.
If anyone may give me some insight as to what are my best options for this? Or what speakers may i add that are in my $200 budget, i would highly appreciate it. Thanks.
Polk Monitor 65T fronts (2)
Polk Signature S35 center (an upgrade from TSx150c, which i still got)
Polk TSi100 bookshelf surrounds (2)
BIC America F12 12-inch subwoofer
Onkyo TX-NR787 receiver (just upgraded from Yamaha RX-V475)
TCL 55R617 4k hdr tv
The chain of events is as follows, I had a Vizio 1080p tv with the yamaha and listed speakers, which worked magnificently. Then I upgraded to the TCL 55R617 tv, which i found out is not compatible with the yamaha receiver i had. A thorough look through forums informed me that the TCL and Yamaha have a "handshake" issue in which it would not pass through the propet audio formats and also make the tv screen flicker consistently after an hour of use. So i then sold the yamaha and got the Onkyo TX-NR787 two days ago. A significant upgrade over the yamaha. My yamaha being a 5.1 limited my options, but with this Onkyo 9.2 (9.1 really since the other sub input transfers the same signal to both) I'm able to do much more. My plan is to Bi-wire the front monitors and then with the remaining two channels purchase two add-on Dolby Atmos speakers, making it into a Bi-wired 5.1.2 system. Yet right now im at a loss as to which add-on speakers to get that would timbre match my current setup. There are the Onkyo SKH-410 being the cheapest option at $90, followed by the sonys SSCSE addons at $160, then the NHT Atmos addons at $200 ($100 each). Which is where my budget stops.
If anyone may give me some insight as to what are my best options for this? Or what speakers may i add that are in my $200 budget, i would highly appreciate it. Thanks.
Comments
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I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
NHT would be the closest match, but remember it's an atmos speaker, just ambient sounds will come out of them so timber matching isn't all that important.
I'd say save the coin for another upgrade.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.
Yes, you are right, i meant to say bi-amp. But i do not understand what do you mean by that an AVR cannot do it? In the attached screenshot of the NR787 it clearly shows how one may do so, as well as right there on the amp itself.
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NHT would be the closest match, but remember it's an atmos speaker, just ambient sounds will come out of them so timber matching isn't all that important.
I'd say save the coin for another upgrade.
Ahh i see, thats good to know. Then if not atmos, what kind of upgrade may i do where i may utilize the remaining two channels? Or perhaps something i may unaware of -
Bi-amping with an AVR is just marketing. You have ONE power supply for everything. You are just trading power, It's like putting a splitter on a garden hose and trying to fill a pool quicker. It's the same amount of water. For Bi-Amping you would need a separate amp(s). Best to just run full range and replace the brass jumpers on the speakers with good speaker wire.
Right now it looks like you have a good 5.1 system. Yes you can add ATMOS speakers and make it 5.1.2. Just remember every time you add more speakers that drains more power from your ONE power supply.
In HT systems it is best to try and match all your speakers to the same manufacture and product line. For surrounds and effect speakers it does not matter that much. Most AVR come with good calibration programs that will EQ them in the system.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
I believe you intend to bi-amp, not bi-wire, so I'll save you the waste of time as you cannot bi-amp with an AVR. Period.
Yes, you are right, i meant to say bi-amp. But i do not understand what do you mean by that an AVR cannot do it? In the attached screenshot of the NR787 it clearly shows how one may do so, as well as right there on the amp itself.
Like @mrloren said, it’s marketing, no more. You are of course free to do as you please, but there will be not sonic benefits, perhaps even sonic deficits.Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Bi-amping with an AVR is just marketing. You have ONE power supply for everything. You are just trading power, It's like putting a splitter on a garden hose and trying to fill a pool quicker. It's the same amount of water. For Bi-Amping you would need a separate amp(s). Best to just run full range and replace the brass jumpers on the speakers with good speaker wire.
Right now it looks like you have a good 5.1 system. Yes you can add ATMOS speakers and make it 5.1.2. Just remember every time you add more speakers that drains more power from your ONE power supply.
In HT systems it is best to try and match all your speakers to the same manufacture and product line. For surrounds and effect speakers it does not matter that much. Most AVR come with good calibration programs that will EQ them in the system.
That was quite a vivid example with the garden hose, thank you for the explanation. Now that my bi-amp plan is debunked and over with, and my atmos idea is also on the brink of being annulled, I'm left with little to work with. As for the wire, I've been using for past 5 years mediabridge 16awg wire topped with Sewell direct SW-29863 deadbolt banana plugs. What kind of speaker wire would be an enhancement to my current wire/plugs? -
I did a intro search into what replacing the jumpers acrually means/entails, and from my limited search, i found basically it's
Which is a great idea actually, which ones would be good to go with?
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I made mine with 10AWG Furez and Audioquest spades
That Media Bidge wire is not that great @ 16AWG. I find the starter wire to be Monoprice/Amazon Basic 12awg. You can go up from there. Doug's Furez is darn good wire https://douglasconnection.com/Raw-Speaker-Cable_c33.htm Doug's a forum member and gives discounts to fellow members. I went from the Furez to Audioquest Type 4.
Audio Advisor has "No frills" AQ wire for a good price https://www.audioadvisor.com/products.asp?dept=26#/filter:brand:AudioQuest$25C2$25AE
I'm currently using AQ Type 4 for my front 3 speakers and have Monoprice 14awg going to my surrounds and Belden 16awg to the ceiling speakers. In my bedroom HT I have Furez for the front 3 and 14awg Monoprice to the surrounds. Both systems sound great.
One thing is on this forum. We will help you spend all your money. Once done you will have an empty bank account and an awesome HT.
When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
That Media Bidge wire is not that great @ 16AWG. I find the starter wire to be Monoprice/Amazon Basic 12awg. You can go up from there. Doug's Furez is darn good wire https://douglasconnection.com/Raw-Speaker-Cable_c33.htm Doug's a forum member and gives discounts to fellow members. I went from the Furez to Audioquest Type 4.
One thing is on this forum. We will help you spend all your money. Once done you will have an empty bank account and an awesome HT.
Ditto on that haha. I was unaware that good wiring can get so darn expensive. Yet some necessary changes must be done. Thanks for the eye opener on that one. Think ill go with these spades I found on ebay they seem to be from a reputable enough seller. As for the wires I'm gonna replace the fronts + center, and the sorrounds will leave be, as they are too much of a hassle to even touch lol. A question, if I leave the 16awg on the sorrounds and put 12/14awg on the rest, that would be alright? and also, i ran across so called terminal caps for the receiver, is that a thing or just a gimmick? -
nvm about the ebay spades, will do it myself, with the help of Furez 10awg and Furez SP8 WP38NP Bare Copper Spade. Then for speaker cables will fashion out of Furez 14awg and sewell deadbolt banana plugs. its alright?
Post edited by crux666 on
