Subs for music - Sealed vs. Ported

verbverb Posts: 5,549
So I've been thinking about getting an SVS Ultra 16 sub for the basement rig.

Some of you I've noticed have them, despite having the big boy SRS's which for me really bring on the bass. But as you know, this is a journey! :smile:

Done some research, of course, and FYI below is a link to that very subject on the SVS website. SVS proclaims that the sealed port is better for music.

As always, for me, your opinions are extremely valuable. Please share them. What are your thoughts?

kz9lku167sgp.png

https://www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/75367747-sealed-vs-ported
Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
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Comments

  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 5,256
    The consensus here is sealed is better for music. I had up until a short time ago just had ported subs and have em dialed in pretty good for music. They sometimes get a little boomy though. I recently got a diminutive sealed sub for my 2 channel and I am not so sure that it is doing anything lol. I have it blended in so well I don't know it's there. With my limited experience, I would recommend going with a sealed sub for music.
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,822
    afterburnt wrote: »
    The consensus here is sealed is better for music. I...
    ...would recommend going with a sealed sub for music.
    Who are you? This is the second coherent post from you I've seen today.

    5wrcabilwxk4.png

    I disabled signatures.
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    edited March 4
    GlennDog wrote: »
    Sealed for muzak. Period

    IMHO, Rythmik is the way to go with the G woofer; F12G . . . 2 of 'em

    http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12.html

    Thanks Dog. Interesting that you'd go for the 2 12's, instead of the larger 15". Let me know, got my learning on! :smile:

    Nice looking sub!
    454aupdukow7.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    afterburnt wrote: »
    The consensus here is sealed is better for music. I had up until a short time ago just had ported subs and have em dialed in pretty good for music. They sometimes get a little boomy though. I recently got a diminutive sealed sub for my 2 channel and I am not so sure that it is doing anything lol. I have it blended in so well I don't know it's there. With my limited experience, I would recommend going with a sealed sub for music.

    I do like the SVS SB12 in the office better than the PB1000 that I recently acquired. Although both can be dialed in as you mentioned, the SB seems a better match for the smaller room.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 5,256
    Room modes
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    msg wrote: »
    afterburnt wrote: »
    The consensus here is sealed is better for music. I...
    ...would recommend going with a sealed sub for music.
    Who are you? This is the second coherent post from you I've seen today.

    5wrcabilwxk4.png

    LOL dude! I had to do a double take when I read diminutive! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Room modes

    Yup.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • afterburntafterburnt Posts: 5,256
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,822
    exactly!
    I disabled signatures.
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 1,856
    verb wrote: »
    GlennDog wrote: »
    Sealed for muzak. Period

    IMHO, Rythmik is the way to go with the G woofer; F12G . . . 2 of 'em

    http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12.html

    Thanks Dog. Interesting that you'd go for the 2 12's, instead of the larger 15". Let me know, got my learning on! :smile:

    Nice looking sub!
    454aupdukow7.png

    I bought one F12 and it made a Huge improvement. Further reading from just a about every source says 2 are better that 1 . . . and IIRC, that's just if there is more than 1 listening position/people. If it's just for you, go with the 15

    So if it's just you in the sweet spot ...
    a Rythmik 15 will (as tonyB sez) Blow yer Sack Back
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    DAC North Star Design Supremo
    Source PSA PWT & Oppo 205
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Pre Cary SLP-98 F1
    Center Salk HT2C
    Wires MIT S3.3
    PSA PC AC-12
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    Another thing to mention (as noted personally and on this forum), SVS customer service is excellent!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • msgmsg Posts: 4,822
    GlennDog wrote: »
    So if it's just you in the sweet spot ...
    a Rythmik 15 will (as tonyB sez) Blow yer Sack Back
    The single 15 is better than 2x 12s? I've never tried stereo subs.

    Ha, yeah, we haven't heard Tony say that in a while.
    I disabled signatures.
  • DerfDerf Posts: 196
    Verb, when I started looking for a sub, some of the gurus here recommended speaker level inputs on the sub. That way the sound signature of your amp comes through the sub. I narrowed it between the REL and Rythmik, and went with a Rythmik F15HP. When it’s on you really don’t know it’s on. But turn it off and you can tell it’s missing. It’s amazing how well it blends into my system.
    Integrated Amp: Marantz PM-10
    Speakers: Usher MD2
    Subwoofer: Rythmik F15HP
    DAC: North Star Design Supremo
    Streaming Source: AURALiC Aries Mini
    SACD Player: Marantz SA8004
    Power Source: PS Audio PP3 on dedicated 20amp circuit
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 1,856
    Derf wrote: »
    Rythmik F15HP. When it’s on you really don’t know it’s on. But turn it off and you can tell it’s missing. It’s amazing how well it blends into my system.

    That means it's dialed-in . . . the way it's supposed to be. Nice work Derf
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    DAC North Star Design Supremo
    Source PSA PWT & Oppo 205
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Pre Cary SLP-98 F1
    Center Salk HT2C
    Wires MIT S3.3
    PSA PC AC-12
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    Nice comments! And very useful! Thank you!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 7,082
    edited March 5
    When I was shopping, SVS suggested a pair of ported subs for my two channel.

    All manufacturers suggested two 15" subs for my main level space. I went with a pair of NHT B-12d's. Great subs, plenty of adjustments. NHT had some killer sub offerings over the years.

    Salk uses Rythmik innards for his subs. I would like a pair of subs to match my speaker veneer, but I don't want to spend that much.

    qq1bwisyj31k.png

    vm2u11smzvm1.png

    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,401
    edited March 5
    I've always been a fan of large sealed sub and infinite baffle subs going way back to my car audio days. A sealed 15" is what I mostly like for the home. I've however listened to well integrated ported subs in the car, home, and beyond. I bring up car audio because many associate that with the 'BOOM' however, I've always been about accuracy. The car is where I learned to tune a ported sub to sound good. Even in a small hatchback optimized Sub Placement, Level , Phase, Polarity, Crossover will make a huge difference in the sound. I used to strive for up-front imaging and disappearing rear sub playing solo upright double bass tracks; I've used mostly sealed but I've done it with ported as well. Its hard to do because of the resonant nature in a car. Its takes proper integration of the sub to midbass to get it right.

    Acoustic and electric tracks I've used to tune bass by ear in the home and car.
    Bass Resonance Test (track 44)- [Album] Best of Chesky Jazz & More Audiophile Tests, Vol. 2
    Night Train / Christian McBride - [Album] Gettin' To It
    Flight of the Cosmic Hippo / Béla Fleck and the Flecktones / [Album] Flight of the Cosmic Hippo
    Etude / Lee Ritenour - [Album] Color Rit
    Bali Run / Fourplay - [Album] Fourplay


    Fast forward to the more advanced drivers, amps, DSP, and optimized enclosures subs today are much better. Ported or sealed can sound good...not to mention many ported subs have the port tune feature. The ports can be plugged to tune to a different frequency or sealed all together. So, yes you can have it all! One can tune the sub in their own space and decide on the sealed vs. ported debate. Maybe even sealed for some songs and ported for others?

    Even this big dark ported THX monster can sound good for music.

    15hero.jpg
    Every part of this driver has been developed from the ground up and customized to deliver high output, low distortion, and accurate bass. Our unique hybrid cone combines long fiber pulp and fiberglass, taking advantage of the pulp's superior stiffness with the additional rigidity and lightweight properties of fiberglass, to deliver a driver of massive durability and excursion. The result is a cone that achieves optimal motion at all frequencies it is asked to produce and beyond.

    1. Lower Suspension
    FEA (Finite Element Analysis) modeling and Klippel laser based optimizations were used to design a cone that is capable of astounding >90mm peak-to-peak excursions. The lower and upper suspensions are designed together with the motor structure. The lower suspension is critical for maintaining very low levels of distortion at high excursions, which are required for high SPL at low frequencies.

    2. Spider and Cone Venting
    The spider is made from multiple layers of NOMEX with integrated tinsel leads hand stitched in place for low mass yet high strength and durability. The purpose of these vents are twofold -- first, they allow convective air flow to cool the voice coil and, second, they reduce asymmetrical compliance due to air compression under the cone/spider, which would appear as unwanted distortions.

    3. Woofer Surround
    FEA (Finite Element Analysis) modeling and Klippel laser based optimization were utilized to create this durable, high profile surround that’s made from a unique formulation of NBR (NITRILE RUBBER-acrylonitrile-butadiene copolymer). This formulation was developed after months of modeling and prototyping to ensure the highest levels of excursion, without sacrificing linearity or distortion.

    4. Motor Structure
    The motor is made of CNC milled low carbon steel in the modified undercut "T" pole assembly to focus the magnetic flux. Dual aluminum shorting rings are used to cancel eddy currents, further stabilizing the magnetic flux and significantly lowering distortion. The precision wound, high temperature, all aluminum bobbin (which has a lower thermal compression than copper) enable the voice coil to remain cool. The motor and suspension design is extremely critical for maintaining control of the driver's displacement over a very wide range of input signals, allowing the subwoofer to reach maximum performance and output levels while keeping distortion to a minimum.

    The Monolith subwoofer amplifier has an extraordinarily high power output of 1000 watts RMS (nearly 2000 watts peak), which can deliver massive amounts of power when needed. Each Class D amplifier is built around a Texas Instruments 48-bit data path (with 28-bit filter coefficients) DSP engine, allowing virtually unlimited design flexibility with the assurance of no signal degradation. Each amplifier's transfer function, power output limiting, and thermal protection are monitored to the millisecond and are customized for each individual woofer and cabinet air volume combination. This state-of-the-art Class D amplifier technology ensures maximum headroom capability, excellent transient response, high output, and very low distortion when driving the Monolith 15-inch THX Select certified subwoofer.

    Cabinet and Internal Bracing
    HDF (High Density Fiberboard), not MDF, was utilized resulting in a sonically inert cabinet. Internal bracing has been strategically placed to increase overall cabinet strength and limit unwanted panel vibrations that would cause discoloration and distortion. The strong cabinet and bracing combine to ensure you hear massive amounts of bass, not cabinet resonances.

    Ports and Grille
    The 15" model uses three 88.5mm port with inner and outer flares. Multiple ports are used to ensure high SPL capability at low frequency (fb=21Hz). The dual flares help reduce turbulence and asymmetrical distortions. Additional adjustments can be made by sealing the port with the supplied plug. The "floating" grille is made from non resonant MDF to provide rigidity, while the entire structure is offset from the cabinet to maximize air flow of the woofer and ports.

    The above is an example of a sub without the pretty looks, bells and whistles that was designed through FEA optimization to perform at a high level. Accurate linear performance throughout the sub bass spectrum. The reviews and measurements support the performance claims. Clean bass is clean bass rather it be for music or movies!


    The SVS Ultra SB16/PB16 is the pretty, feature rich, high performing sub that all would love to have. However, for $2000-$2500 I would take two of the Monolith 15's or 12's open box for $1099.99/$679.99 each. Then, get a miniDSP, AntiMode 8033, etc. for the clean articulate dual sub win. These subs have to port control option: One port, two port, or sealed!

    Or, two SB-3000's
    Or two Rythmik F12 or F15
    Or two HSU ULS-15

    Any of the above should be a worthy complement to the punchy SRS.
    Post edited by WLDock on
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • GlennDogGlennDog Posts: 1,856
    GlennDog wrote: »
    Sealed for muzak. Period

    IMHO, Rythmik is the way to go with the G woofer; F12G . . . 2 of 'em

    http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F12.html

    XXXX In full disclosure, when I bought my F12 I did not go with the G driver, as my system was pulling double duty 2 chanell and HT


    I had previously tried a pair of SVS SB 2000's, but wasn't quite satisfied. The Rythmik Duo showed them the door.

    afv6nc05xcyu.jpg

    Hey Mike,
    Next picture of your system should include the updated amps shot from the balcony … That’s a sweet set up, bro

    DaveDogg!
    You may have run across this already. If not, I think you’ll find it of interest…

    https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/subwoofer-decision
    Power Rogue M180 monos & Adcom GFA 5802
    PS Audio PerfectWave Power Plant 10
    Rears Salk SuperCharged Surrounds
    DAC North Star Design Supremo
    Source PSA PWT & Oppo 205
    Pre/Pro Integra DHC 40.1
    LCD Samsung LN46B750
    Mains Salk HT2-TL
    Pre Cary SLP-98 F1
    Center Salk HT2C
    Wires MIT S3.3
    PSA PC AC-12
  • Mike ReeterMike Reeter Posts: 3,405
    edited March 7




    [/quote]
    You may have run across this already. If not, I think you’ll find it of interest…

    https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/subwoofer-decision[/quote]

    Very informative read, more to it than meets the eye.
    SDA SRS 2.3TL's/SDA SRS 3.1TL's/SDA CRS+4.1TL's and some other stuff
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 5,242
    edited March 7
    steveinaz wrote: »
    I have never bought into the "sealed subs for music" myth. SVS's subs are TIGHT, and going ported will not kill bass accuracy in the least. That's just MY opinion.

    I tend to agree Steve, and I will add that I think that HSU subs have a slight advantage over SVS for music, as they have line level inputs, and I find that they have a slightly more accurate crossover. Also, they used to have no rumble filter or EQ, but at least the EQ part has changed...not sure about the filter.

    BUT, on the other hand, by FAR the best subs I have owned for music are ACI sealed subs, a force and a titan. The texture and speed on those puppies is just uncanny. I don't know if the sealed feature is driving that difference, however, or if its (more likely) a combination of design features, one of which is acoustic suspension...

    I still have the titan sitting in a closet. It doesn't, unfortunately, cosmetically fit anywhere in our current home, but it can't bring myself to get rid of it in case someone changes...
    HT Rig:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Peachtree Audio NovaPre; B&K TX4430; Bryson BPD-1; Mains: Dynaudio Emit 10; Center - Polk cs400i; Heights, Center Surround - Klipsch KHC - 6 In-Ceiling; Surrounds - Monoprice in-ceiling; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5; LG UP870 4K BDP; NVidia ShieldTV
    ;
    Master Bedroom
    Marantz SR-5007; Parasound HCA-1000A, PSB Imagine B, NHT Super One CI surrounds, Martin Logan Dynamo (original), Squeezebox Touch
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549


    You may have run across this already. If not, I think you’ll find it of interest…

    https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/subwoofer-decision[/quote]

    Very informative read, more to it than meets the eye.
    [/quote]

    Interesting read. I like this quote:
    ae2l3upubrub.png
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    Reading further on the Agon link yielded an interesting link.

    Looks like Salk teamed up with Rythmic to produce some subs! Local company for me! :smile:
    det9sqbrm6qf.png
    http://www.salksound.com/model.php?model=Rythmik 12 Subwoofer
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549


    You may have run across this already. If not, I think you’ll find it of interest…

    https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/subwoofer-decision[/quote]

    Very informative read, more to it than meets the eye.
    [/quote]

    Mike I'm glad you posted this link. Very informative, and worthwhile read. Lot's of interesting thoughts and comments. And very cordial! :smile:

    Another interesting discussion (via Vandersteen's approach) to the benefits of using speaker level inputs to the sub. Got my learning done for the day! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • mantismantis Posts: 15,269
    I don't think sealed vs ported is as important as the room size your putting it in and the placement. I also fully support running 2 subs over 1 unless you only have one seat in the room that you listen to music in.

    So let's talk about bass in a room. It's the hardest thing to get right due to the way the frequencies react in your room or space. If the space is small then it's even harder as lower end signal waves are very long to complete and you basically hear the after math later after the wave has completed it cycle. Larger rooms have less issues as they can complete lower waves quicker without so much bouncing around.
    Running 2 subs helps with more locations to fill the room with more bass. 2 channel systems , all of them can benefit from a sub or 2. The real reason why you want a sub over lets say full range speakers is placement. Usually where your main channel speakers are placed in your room for ideal 2 channel listening, sub bass information coming from those locations usually isn't a ideal place for bass notes to complete in your room.

    SO back to your questions I don't think one is better then the other for anything. A quality sealed sub or a quality ported sub can have amazing results when setup and placed properly in a room. For years people thought that you can place a subwoofer anywhere and the room and just tune it to that location. Yes you can do that but most of the time these anywhere positions don't yield the best results.

    SVS is a brand I just don't have a lot of experience with. I set up a few of them many years ago and was highly disappointed in the results. From what I understand they have made huge quality gains over the years and I would love to try them again.

    I mostly deal with JL subwoofer which are pretty incredible subwoofers. More expensive then SVS but Maybe worth it.

    In my personal system I have Def Tech Mythos ST towers that for years where my main subwoofers. 2 subs built right into my towers and away I went. BUT I own many stand alone subwoofers and have been testing out stand alone placement in my room and not running Sub out to my ST towers. They are now running in small and allowing my external sub to do that duty with much better placement in the room.

    Good luck with your decisions and don't be shy to hit me up if you need help.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • verbverb Posts: 5,549
    Loving this thread! Lots of good advice here. Way more to consider than originally thought. Kinda like when I first joined this forum! Didn't know what I didn't know!

    Appreciate all the comments! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Cary SLP-05 Pre, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Digital Cable, Marantz SA-14 SACD, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1, Marantz AMP-1, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Bottlehead SEX 2.1 Integrated Amp, Tisbury Mini Passive Pre, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
    Spares VTL 2.5 Pre, EAR 834L Pre, Rotel RC1580 Pre, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Carver TFM35x Amp, (2) Dayens Ampino Integrated, (2) SDA 1C's, Monitor 10's, Monitor 5Jr's, Polk TSi200's, Rega RP1 TT, Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer
  • SCompRacerSCompRacer Posts: 7,082
    verb wrote: »
    Local company for me! :smile:

    11 hour RT for me. Wife came with to pick up my speakers. We loved the veneer vault.
    Make yourself necessary to someone. Ralph Waldo Emerson

    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ & Pro 11+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS* Twisted Pear Buffalo III Dual Mono ESS Sabre32 DAC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *

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