Polk SDS CRS+

Hi all
I just picked up a pair of Polk SDA CRS + early model with twin blade IC. I ordered the twin blade connector from ebay yet not received it. I hooked up these speakers with my Sansui 5000X without the IC and it sounds really very good and waiting to listen with IC. I have one question should I replace the original SL2000 tweeter with RD0-194?

Thanks
Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
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Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    edited February 2019
    get the IC and start shopping for new caps/resistors.

    Edit for not remembering early CRS+ were blade-blade.
  • Dr_Wu
    Dr_Wu Posts: 305
    Yes on the tweeters, and the other upgrades/updates listed in the SDA Handbook. You won't regret it.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,009
    edited February 2019
    Remember the equal sided triangle for your listening spot. They'll sound great anyway but when the speakers are ..say 9 ft. apart to their centers, you should be 9' from their centers away also. You'll not believe how expansive the sound-field will be. Sounds will come from the sides of your room sometimes. :DB)

    There is a thread of songs that highlight what SDA's can do. Search SDA playlist. Here it is. I found it quickly!
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/22736/sda-playlist/p1

    Congrats on getting some very special speakers from Polk audio's early years. B)
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    edited February 2019
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Hi all
    I just picked up a pair of Polk SDA CRS + early model with twin blade IC. I ordered the twin blade connector from ebay yet not received it. I hooked up these speakers with my Sansui 5000X without the IC and it sounds really very good and waiting to listen with IC. I have one question should I replace the original SL2000 tweeter with RD0-194?

    Thanks

    You have the original SDA CRS two tweeter version, they are not the + version. You cannot use them with a non-common ground amplifier.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 16,832
    F1nut wrote: »
    Sanjib_a wrote: »
    Hi all
    I just picked up a pair of Polk SDA CRS + early model with twin blade IC. I ordered the twin blade connector from ebay yet not received it. I hooked up these speakers with my Sansui 5000X without the IC and it sounds really very good and waiting to listen with IC. I have one question should I replace the original SL2000 tweeter with RD0-194?

    Thanks

    You have the original SDA CRS two tweeter version, they are not the + version. You cannot use them with a non-common ground amplifier.

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/1/8/5/1/1/26707.pdf

    Nope there is a B/B version... Mine was the same way, I modded mine to be the later version so I could TL them...
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    The 84' CRS was 2nd generation, had two tweeters, blade/blade IC. The 86' CRS+ was 3rd generation, blade/blade, single tweeter, same as SDA-2A. 87' & 89' CRS+ were 4th generation, pin/blade, single tweeter.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    My reading comprehension in this thread was lacking. I thought I read twin tweeters when it was twin blade. DOH!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    F1nut wrote: »
    My reading comprehension in this thread was lacking. I thought I read twin tweeters when it was twin blade. DOH!

    You get a pass. A stint in solitary confinement takes a mental toll.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    F1nut wrote: »
    My reading comprehension in this thread was lacking. I thought I read twin tweeters when it was twin blade. DOH!

    No worries Jesse. I'm O -, JIC
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    xschop wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    My reading comprehension in this thread was lacking. I thought I read twin tweeters when it was twin blade. DOH!

    You get a pass. A stint in solitary confinement takes a mental toll.

    As I've stated previously, when I'm wrong I admit it unlike some on this board who think they are never wrong even while getting told from multiple people that they are wrong. That is the difference between an honorable person and piece of scum.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Shoot I'm always wrong....
    I play fast and loose with the facts... B)B)
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,350
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Shoot I'm always wrong....
    I play fast and loose with the facts... B)B)

    Not true, or you would be a, gasp, politician . :D
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    edited February 2019
    F1nut wrote: »
    xschop wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    My reading comprehension in this thread was lacking. I thought I read twin tweeters when it was twin blade. DOH!

    You get a pass. A stint in solitary confinement takes a mental toll.

    As I've stated previously, when I'm wrong I admit it unlike some on this board who think they are never wrong even while getting told from multiple people that they are wrong. That is the difference between an honorable person and piece of scum.

    Snowflake logic is difficult to decipher. Some may be perfectly content being in err, whilst others are bonafide ignorant.
    Post edited by xschop on
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Thank you all!
    My speaker is one tweeter version with blade/blade IC. I will get the IC cable on 02/13.
    Meanwhile I like the sound so much even without IC, I picked up another pair with pin/blade connection. But I discovered a problem with this pair. Left channel speaker playing much louder than right channel. Then I figured out that the normal driver in the right channel is not working (SDA driver is fine). I took out the woofer and checked it is in good condition. I took out the crossover board from the cabinet found the L1 solenoid 2.5 mH 20GA is no good. Now I need help to replace this solenoid. First can anyone tell me how to separate the crossover circuit board from base big solenoid? There are 4 little white clips and how you open that? Anyone has any video then it will be of great help. Lastly how can I get that replacement solenoid?

    May be too many questions I asked!!!!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    Your "solenoid" terminology you use is what we call an inductor. Check the specs on the wiring diagrams somewhere here and order accordingly.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • Dr_Wu
    Dr_Wu Posts: 305
    You can squeeze the 4 segments of the tips of those stand-offs with a needle-nosed pliers. The plastic disc can then be slipped over the compressed post.

  • xschop and Dr_Wu: Thank you very much! I guess this is "air core inductor crossover coil". Am I right?
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Is it burnt or what? They don't just go bad.
  • pitdogg2: On end just broken near the board!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • If I solder it will it be ok?
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • monepolk
    monepolk Posts: 1,140
    edited February 2019
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,474
    Personally I'd clean off the "new" end of all lacquer to clean copper and resolder into the old hole after removing "old" end if still soldered in the hole....

    But that's just me...
  • I just soldered the broken end and it is working!! Just trying to minimize the time!! Your suggestion is the best and correct one.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • Since my second pair is pin/blade IC I am running it with with speaker wires as IC and what a sound! Why I didn't buy it before??? I will replace tweeters to get more out of it (it now sounds little harsh!). It is a great match with my Sansui 5000X! Still waiting for blade/blade IC of my first pair.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • What is the replacement inductor for SDA driver 1.5 mH 20 AWG? I could not find any 1.25 mH 20 AWG to buy online. Any help will be appreciated.
    Thanks!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Get the 1.5 and unwind it till you reach spec.
  • Festyboy: thanks!
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • I am planning to do the recapping of my CRS+ (pin/blade IC). I have noticed that there is a 750 pF mica capacitor in parallel to 12 microF cap in tweeter circuit. Should leave it alone or I should replace it? If I need to replace it what will be the best replacement. Thanks in advance for any help.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Sure that's not the poly switch?
  • Yes, I am sure it is not the poly switch. I have a blue poly switch which I am going to replace with a wire jumper.
    Polk SDA 1C and CRS+, Klipsch Forte II, Focal Chorus 706, Sansui: 9090DB, Eight Deluxe, AU-9900; Pioneer SX-1010, Marantz: 300DC, 3200B, 2325, 2275, Thorens TD-145, Technics SL-1650, Pioneer PL-707, Pioneer RT-707