Power Cables

audioluvr · January 8

So my next venture in this crazy world of audio is power cables. Currently running the flagship B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks. In my living room I have two outlets, one behind each speaker and they are on different circuits (different phases also) so each amp has it's own fairly dedicated circuit (one is shared with the pre and CD player). Where should I go from here? Power conditioners needed? Will any of it matter? I've been told differing information about whether their would be any improvement.

Thoughts?

Old pic...

ZLTFUL · January 8

Amps should be left off of power conditioners...a lot of them are current limiting. And unless you know for a fact they aren't, the amps themselves should have some power filtering themselves and it could create a negative cumulative effect.

For power cables, look for something with quality construction and 99%+ OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) or even better, OCC (Ohno Continuous Cast *Copper).

If you are worried about cost/benefit ratios, look into Pangea. I personally love their AC9 cables but they are far from flexible. The newest versions are better than the originals in that regard but still can be a handful. If you have some distance to go, the flexibility will be less of an issue.
Their AC14SE cable would be the "next best" option. Smaller gauge of course but still a nice cable (I run AC9s to my amps and AC14SEs to all of my sources/pre).

Next up from there in quality would be Wireworld, Cullen Cable, Douglas Connection and PS Audio cables. The sky is the limit really but to me, the best bang for the buck is those manufacturers.

As for whether or not it will make a difference, ignore the static and let your ears decide. A lot of sellers these days offer trial periods or are even willing to let you try before you buy with a deposit.

audioluvr · January 8

Thanks! There seems to be a ton of stuff out there but not sure what's truly good or sugar coated dog po op. My cable runs are maybe 2 meters at the most to each outlet. My amps have a 1KVA torroidal tranny each so they are capable of sucking up the juice if needed.

Clipdat · January 9

https://www.musicdirect.com/best-budget-tweaks-under-99/Shunyata-Venom-14-Power-Cable

DSkip · January 9

I'd recommend getting a decent rack situated first. Pangea has a four shelf unit for $100 via Amazon that you should consider if for nothing more than to better stabilize the gear.

BlueFox · January 9

Personally, after a few years of power and IC cable upgrades, I feel that cables are the foundation of a stereo. Get the foundation good and solid and then you can spend your time upgrading gear. With a weak foundation then you are constantly upgrading gear and cables.

DSkip · January 9

BlueFox wrote: »

Personally, after a few years of power and IC cable upgrades, I feel that cables are the foundation of a stereo. Get the foundation good and solid and then you can spend your time upgrading gear. With a weak foundation then you are constantly upgrading gear and cables.

Hey hey! We actually agree on something lol. For me the passive components of a rig serve as the foundation: cables, rack, and room. Get those to have as little impact on the sound as you can and you begin to actually hear each component for what it is and not just hear the artifacts and colorations that those three areas can introduce.

DSkip · January 9

For what it’s worth, I have been known to tune a system with a different plinth under an amp or speakers. No joke.

BlueFox · January 9

I bet we agree on a lot.

The rack is also important, as you said. Mine weighs 500 pounds empty so it is pretty solid.

MrBuhl · January 9

I have to put in a little plug (see what I did there) for PS Audio power cables. The first truly audibly different cable I have had the pleasure of trying.

Willow · January 9

ZLTFUL wrote: »

Amps should be left off of power conditioners...a lot of them are current limiting. And unless you know for a fact they aren't, the amps themselves should have some power filtering themselves and it could create a negative cumulative effect.

What do you guys do if you plug right in the wall? In terms of power outages, surges, brown outs?

motorhead43026 · January 9

Whole home surge protection, cheap and easy

EndersShadow · January 9

motorhead43026 wrote: »

Whole home surge protection, cheap and easy

^This

Willow · January 9

motorhead43026 wrote: »

Whole home surge protection, cheap and easy

Figured, when we have electrical work done in the basement I will be adding this.

pitdogg2 · January 9

Willow wrote: »

ZLTFUL wrote: »

Amps should be left off of power conditioners...a lot of them are current limiting. And unless you know for a fact they aren't, the amps themselves should have some power filtering themselves and it could create a negative cumulative effect.

What do you guys do if you plug right in the wall? In terms of power outages, surges, brown outs?

I unplug it. Most amps have the ability to withstand such problems.

ZLTFUL · January 9

Yup...whole home surge protection. Of course, you could go extreme and install a whole home isolation transformer...but that's a LOT of scratch as I have discovered.

EndersShadow · January 9

ZLTFUL wrote: »

Yup...whole home surge protection. Of course, you could go extreme and install a whole home isolation transformer...but that's a LOT of scratch as I have discovered.

Just have Russ "acquire" one for you

audioluvr · January 9

DSkip wrote: »

I'd recommend getting a decent rack situated first. Pangea has a four shelf unit for $100 via Amazon that you should consider if for nothing more than to better stabilize the gear.

Thanks Skip. I currently have my components in a solid oak cabinet. Would this be okay if I put spikes under it? I really like the looks of it.

DaveHo · January 9

My B&K runs pretty hot, I imagine the monos are similar. I hope you have some kind of ventilation fan that's not visible, otherwise you're cooking those amps.

audioluvr · January 9

The cooling ribs stick out the back and when I play music I usually have the window behind it cracked open in the winter (wide open in the summer) and my ceiling fan on.

pitdogg2 · January 9

audioluvr wrote: »

The cooling ribs stick out the back and when I play music I usually have the window behind it cracked open in the winter (wide open in the summer) and my ceiling fan on.

Are there vents in the top of those? if there is you are just feeding that heat into the top amp as well. Excuse me if I'm wrong but if they are convection cooled anything on top will inhibit that.

audioluvr · January 9

This is how my top looks. On the bottom they are in the same location. I have 1"x1"x15" spacers between the two just inboard of the top vent so the heat goes out and up the sides. I do try to keep a close eye on it and they don't seem to be getting what I'd call hot but if you guys think I should replace it...

EndersShadow · January 9

maybe look into the solution @steveinaz used on top his Parasound amp (computer fans in a sturdy housing).

I've used AC Infinity units on top my B&K 200.5, Denon X4100 (which are in a rack with all sides but back enclosed) and they are nice, but cant take more than 30lbs on top, betting your monos are more than that.

Steve's solution can handle a lot more weight....

pitdogg2 · January 9

Personally I'd give them more room on the side and tops to breathe. Side vent and top vent need room for the convection cooling to take place. it is really hard to tell from the pictures 1. If that is a bottom vent on the side in the pictures you provided or just a shadow 2. How much room in the cabinet you have under and on the side to allow air to move or if it is solid wood sided.

Once again they're yours and if you keep a close eye on the heat build up and feel comfortable then rock on brother.

Only you know for sure. It's always easier to cast stones than to catch them with your teeth

verb · January 9

After having the speaker cable epiphany, and the same for IC's, I've been dipping my toes in the power cord area. The Pangea's for me is a nice step, not too expensive, but boy they are beefy!

I'm running AC14 SE Mk2's to all my components. Want to get the AC 9's to feed the amp and power conditioner.

motorhead43026 · January 9

Much better choices than the 9's. Ridiculous to work with, to stiff.

verb · January 9

Yep. Have to leave lots of space behind the components, for a proper bend radius.

lightman1 · January 9

EndersShadow wrote: »

ZLTFUL wrote: »

Yup...whole home surge protection. Of course, you could go extreme and install a whole home isolation transformer...but that's a LOT of scratch as I have discovered.

Just have Russ "acquire" one for you

Thank you Dan....

motorstereo · January 9

motorhead43026 wrote: »

Much better choices than the 9's. Ridiculous to work with, to stiff.

Yes those 9's sure are ridiculous to work with and I could not imagine snaking them through a rack full of gear. I use the first generation 9's on my mc1201's and what a pita it was wrangling those 7 gauge wires into place. The arcs have to be huge as there's no give to them. But the end result was well worth the effort and hopefully I'll never have to move them again

BlueFox · January 9

Forget Pangea. I started with them on my previous amps, but once I added the entry level Shunyata Venom cable I haven't looked back.

At that time, they only offered the Venom 14, but now you can get a version for amps.

https://shunyata.com/products/power-cables/venom-14/

https://shunyata.com/products/power-cables/venom-hc/

verb · January 9

Yep @BlueFox I've read good things about em. Drew @Clipdat had a good review that he posted recently, IIRC.

Hey you can always flip me your Pangea hand me downs!

Power Cables

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