Power Cables

audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 605
edited January 8 in 2 Channel Audio
So my next venture in this crazy world of audio is power cables. Currently running the flagship B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks. In my living room I have two outlets, one behind each speaker and they are on different circuits (different phases also) so each amp has it's own fairly dedicated circuit (one is shared with the pre and CD player). Where should I go from here? Power conditioners needed? Will any of it matter? I've been told differing information about whether their would be any improvement.

Thoughts?

lowg1aq8wu6p.jpg

Old pic...
Home System: see
SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
800 Va Dreadnought
B&K Reference 50 Pre
B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
Cambridge Audio DVD 99
Sangean HD FM Tuner

Barn system:
SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
Carver C-1 pre
Carver M1.5t
«1

Comments

  • ZLTFULZLTFUL Posts: 4,747
    Amps should be left off of power conditioners...a lot of them are current limiting. And unless you know for a fact they aren't, the amps themselves should have some power filtering themselves and it could create a negative cumulative effect.

    For power cables, look for something with quality construction and 99%+ OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) or even better, OCC (Ohno Continuous Cast *Copper).

    If you are worried about cost/benefit ratios, look into Pangea. I personally love their AC9 cables but they are far from flexible. The newest versions are better than the originals in that regard but still can be a handful. If you have some distance to go, the flexibility will be less of an issue.
    Their AC14SE cable would be the "next best" option. Smaller gauge of course but still a nice cable (I run AC9s to my amps and AC14SEs to all of my sources/pre).

    Next up from there in quality would be Wireworld, Cullen Cable, Douglas Connection and PS Audio cables. The sky is the limit really but to me, the best bang for the buck is those manufacturers.

    As for whether or not it will make a difference, ignore the static and let your ears decide. A lot of sellers these days offer trial periods or are even willing to let you try before you buy with a deposit.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 605
    edited January 8
    Thanks! There seems to be a ton of stuff out there but not sure what's truly good or sugar coated dog po op. My cable runs are maybe 2 meters at the most to each outlet. My amps have a 1KVA torroidal tranny each so they are capable of sucking up the juice if needed.
    Home System: see
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    800 Va Dreadnought
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
    Sangean HD FM Tuner

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 5,217
    • "Electronic music is human sound adapting to indulge technology, and for some, it feels like the signature sound of energy. New and abstract sounds over hypnotic rhythms can conjure vast soundscapes for escape, pleasure, and transcendence."
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 15,246
    I'd recommend getting a decent rack situated first. Pangea has a four shelf unit for $100 via Amazon that you should consider if for nothing more than to better stabilize the gear.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,348
    Personally, after a few years of power and IC cable upgrades, I feel that cables are the foundation of a stereo. Get the foundation good and solid and then you can spend your time upgrading gear. With a weak foundation then you are constantly upgrading gear and cables.

    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 15,246
    BlueFox wrote: »
    Personally, after a few years of power and IC cable upgrades, I feel that cables are the foundation of a stereo. Get the foundation good and solid and then you can spend your time upgrading gear. With a weak foundation then you are constantly upgrading gear and cables.

    Hey hey! We actually agree on something lol. For me the passive components of a rig serve as the foundation: cables, rack, and room. Get those to have as little impact on the sound as you can and you begin to actually hear each component for what it is and not just hear the artifacts and colorations that those three areas can introduce.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • DSkipDSkip Posts: 15,246
    For what it’s worth, I have been known to tune a system with a different plinth under an amp or speakers. No joke.
    audiothesis.com/

    Speakers: Harbeth: 30.2, SHL5+; Usher: Be-10, T-515; Rosso Fiorentino: Elba, Pienza, Certaldo, Fiesole, Volterra; Polk: T50, Signature S15, RTA 15tl, RTi12; Sonner Audio Allegro Unum, Legato Unum, Legato Semis, Legato Duo; Emerald Physics CS-2.8; Klipsch KLF-20
    Preamps: Shuguang S200MK, Dayens Ampino, Parasound P5
    Amps: Shuguang S845MK, Dayens Ampino Monoblocks, Parasound A23
    Integrateds: Triode Corporation TRV-88SER, MastersounD: BoX, Dueventi, Compact 845, Evolution 845; North Star Design Blue Diamond
    Sources: AURALiC Aries, Denon HEOS Link, North Star Design: Magnifico, Supremo, Incanto, Intenso, Venti
    Cabling: Wireworld
    TV: Sony XBR-75X940C
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,348
    I bet we agree on a lot. :)

    The rack is also important, as you said. Mine weighs 500 pounds empty so it is pretty solid.
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • MrBuhlMrBuhl Posts: 2,313
    I have to put in a little plug (see what I did there) for PS Audio power cables. The first truly audibly different cable I have had the pleasure of trying.
    VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
    VA 2 Channel ,Dodd 50W Dual Mono EL34 Amp, MFA based Cocci Tube Preamp, Polk SDA2BTL (fully modded), A/L 1000VA Dreadnought, Canare 4s11 SDA cable, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Music Hall mmf 5.1 Turntable, Vincent Pho-700 Phono Pre, MIT S3 IC's / MIT Shotgun S3 Speaker Cables / Pangea & Signal Cable MP power
    Noggin Schiit Valhalla, Pangea, Phillips Fidelio X1, Polk UF8000
    LA Pass Labs X150.5 Amp, Eastern Electric MiniMax Preamp, Polk LSIM705, Marantz DV8300 SACD, Audioengine B1, MIT AVt3 Speaker & RCA Cables, PS Audio Power Punch power cables

    Dodd Mid Level Preamp ("on the bench" w/Charlie)
    Polk SDA1c modded
    Polk CRS+ 4.1TL modded (need veneer)
    Soundcraftsmen PCR800
    Yamaha YP-D6
    Signal Cable Silver Resolution IC's
    Audible Illusions L1 Preamp
    McCormack DNA-1 Power Drive Amp
    Eastern Electric Minimax CDP
    Infinity RS5b Speakers

  • WillowWillow Posts: 9,224
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Amps should be left off of power conditioners...a lot of them are current limiting. And unless you know for a fact they aren't, the amps themselves should have some power filtering themselves and it could create a negative cumulative effect.

    What do you guys do if you plug right in the wall? In terms of power outages, surges, brown outs?
    2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607, Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 1 and AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Tributaries Optical, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Rotel RDV 1045 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII, Android Mi Box3 and Apple TV. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Polk Patio 25x4, Marantz DV 4200 (as CDP) MIT AVT3 ICs - Work - Spotify Premium or Neutron App to my FiiO Kunlun into my Grado SR125e

  • motorhead43026motorhead43026 Posts: 2,970
    Whole home surge protection, cheap and easy
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk Signature S60's with ZU Audio IBIS jumpers; Cables: Wireworld Eclipse IC; Audioquest Big Sur IC; ZU Audio Mission speaker cables; PS Audio AC-3 power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; SDA2BTL's, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb and dumber.
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,217
    Whole home surge protection, cheap and easy

    ^This
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • WillowWillow Posts: 9,224
    Whole home surge protection, cheap and easy

    Figured, when we have electrical work done in the basement I will be adding this.
    2Ch- B&W 703, SVS PB10 NSD, Marantz NR1607, Parasound 1500a, Pro-Ject Debut Carbon (Yellow) with Acrylic platter, Pro-Ject phono pre, MIT AVT 2 speaker cables, MIT AVT 1 and AVT 2 ICs, XLO Jumpers, Tributaries Optical, Signal Cable Magic Power Cables x3, Samsung 55JS7000, Harmony 1100, Sony BDP-S6200, Rotel RDV 1045 (as Transport), Cambridge Audio DAC Magic100, Monster 3600MKII, Android Mi Box3 and Apple TV. - Pool /Gazebo Yamaha RX-A1010, Polk Patio 25x4, Marantz DV 4200 (as CDP) MIT AVT3 ICs - Work - Spotify Premium or Neutron App to my FiiO Kunlun into my Grado SR125e

  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,070
    Willow wrote: »
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Amps should be left off of power conditioners...a lot of them are current limiting. And unless you know for a fact they aren't, the amps themselves should have some power filtering themselves and it could create a negative cumulative effect.

    What do you guys do if you plug right in the wall? In terms of power outages, surges, brown outs?

    I unplug it. Most amps have the ability to withstand such problems.
  • ZLTFULZLTFUL Posts: 4,747
    Yup...whole home surge protection. Of course, you could go extreme and install a whole home isolation transformer...but that's a LOT of scratch as I have discovered. :o
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,217
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Yup...whole home surge protection. Of course, you could go extreme and install a whole home isolation transformer...but that's a LOT of scratch as I have discovered. :o

    Just have Russ "acquire" one for you :smile:
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 605
    edited January 9
    DSkip wrote: »
    I'd recommend getting a decent rack situated first. Pangea has a four shelf unit for $100 via Amazon that you should consider if for nothing more than to better stabilize the gear.

    Thanks Skip. I currently have my components in a solid oak cabinet. Would this be okay if I put spikes under it? I really like the looks of it.

    l4nqirccx6an.jpg
    Home System: see
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    800 Va Dreadnought
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
    Sangean HD FM Tuner

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
  • DaveHoDaveHo Posts: 2,056
    My B&K runs pretty hot, I imagine the monos are similar. I hope you have some kind of ventilation fan that's not visible, otherwise you're cooking those amps.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 605
    edited January 9
    The cooling ribs stick out the back and when I play music I usually have the window behind it cracked open in the winter (wide open in the summer) and my ceiling fan on.
    Home System: see
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    800 Va Dreadnought
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
    Sangean HD FM Tuner

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,070
    audioluvr wrote: »
    The cooling ribs stick out the back and when I play music I usually have the window behind it cracked open in the winter (wide open in the summer) and my ceiling fan on.

    Are there vents in the top of those? if there is you are just feeding that heat into the top amp as well. Excuse me if I'm wrong but if they are convection cooled anything on top will inhibit that.
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 605
    edited January 9
    This is how my top looks. On the bottom they are in the same location. I have 1"x1"x15" spacers between the two just inboard of the top vent so the heat goes out and up the sides. I do try to keep a close eye on it and they don't seem to be getting what I'd call hot but if you guys think I should replace it...

    8ccy375gqego.jpg

    pjrfjthbqrbb.jpg
    Home System: see
    SDA 1C's - Full mod with the help by Dave...
    WireWorld Mini-Eclipse 7 speaker cables
    800 Va Dreadnought
    B&K Reference 50 Pre
    B&K M200 Sonata Monoblocks
    Cambridge Audio DVD 99
    Sangean HD FM Tuner

    Barn system:
    SDA SRS 2.3's Full mod done by myself
    Carver C-1 pre
    Carver M1.5t
  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,217
    maybe look into the solution @steveinaz used on top his Parasound amp (computer fans in a sturdy housing).

    I've used AC Infinity units on top my B&K 200.5, Denon X4100 (which are in a rack with all sides but back enclosed) and they are nice, but cant take more than 30lbs on top, betting your monos are more than that.

    Steve's solution can handle a lot more weight....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,070
    Personally I'd give them more room on the side and tops to breathe. Side vent and top vent need room for the convection cooling to take place. it is really hard to tell from the pictures 1. If that is a bottom vent on the side in the pictures you provided or just a shadow 2. How much room in the cabinet you have under and on the side to allow air to move or if it is solid wood sided.

    Once again they're yours and if you keep a close eye on the heat build up and feel comfortable then rock on brother.

    Only you know for sure. It's always easier to cast stones than to catch them with your teeth :# :#
  • verbverb Posts: 4,447
    After having the speaker cable epiphany, and the same for IC's, I've been dipping my toes in the power cord area. The Pangea's for me is a nice step, not too expensive, but boy they are beefy!

    I'm running AC14 SE Mk2's to all my components. Want to get the AC 9's to feed the amp and power conditioner.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Rega RP1 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs DAC, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1 transport, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • motorhead43026motorhead43026 Posts: 2,970
    Much better choices than the 9's. Ridiculous to work with, to stiff.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk Signature S60's with ZU Audio IBIS jumpers; Cables: Wireworld Eclipse IC; Audioquest Big Sur IC; ZU Audio Mission speaker cables; PS Audio AC-3 power cords, all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    All TV's sound enhanced by Polk Magnfi Mini's.

    Other; SDA2BTL's, M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All speakers have had crossover rebuilds, resulting in a small fortune invested in Sonicaps, and tweeter upgrades.

    Political memes posted as fact and accepted as fact, are sign language of the ignorant, for the ignorant

    tonyb said " but even socialists can do a good thing here and there

    Social media makes dumb people dumber and smart people dumb and dumber.
  • verbverb Posts: 4,447
    Yep. Have to leave lots of space behind the components, for a proper bend radius.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Rega RP1 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs DAC, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1 transport, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
  • lightman1lightman1 Posts: 10,003
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Yup...whole home surge protection. Of course, you could go extreme and install a whole home isolation transformer...but that's a LOT of scratch as I have discovered. :o

    Just have Russ "acquire" one for you :smile:

    Thank you Dan.... ;)
  • motorstereomotorstereo Posts: 919
    Much better choices than the 9's. Ridiculous to work with, to stiff.

    Yes those 9's sure are ridiculous to work with and I could not imagine snaking them through a rack full of gear. I use the first generation 9's on my mc1201's and what a pita it was wrangling those 7 gauge wires into place. The arcs have to be huge as there's no give to them. But the end result was well worth the effort and hopefully I'll never have to move them again
  • BlueFoxBlueFox Posts: 10,348
    Forget Pangea. I started with them on my previous amps, but once I added the entry level Shunyata Venom cable I haven't looked back.

    At that time, they only offered the Venom 14, but now you can get a version for amps.

    https://shunyata.com/products/power-cables/venom-14/

    https://shunyata.com/products/power-cables/venom-hc/
    Bud - Silicon Valley

    Lumin S1
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD
    Pass XP-22 pre, X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers, SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • verbverb Posts: 4,447
    Yep @BlueFox I've read good things about em. Drew @Clipdat had a good review that he posted recently, IIRC.

    Hey you can always flip me your Pangea hand me downs! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS, Rega RP1 TT, VTL 2.5 Preamplifier, Enlightened Audio Designs CD Transport, Northstar Designs DAC, Conrad Johnson MF2300A Amp, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Wireworld Oasis 8 RCA IC's, MIT Terminator2 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, Marantz CD-1 transport, Marantz AMP-1, Acoustic Technologies Classic Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus Subwoofer, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Project BoxE Bluetooth Streamer, Polk TSi200's
    Living Room: Pioneer SX-N30 Network Receiver, Pioneer PD10AE CD Player, Furman M8-LX Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi Subwoofer
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