SDA -1C

Bigbang
Bigbang Posts: 233
edited June 2018 in Vintage Speakers
I’m going to go take a look at these on Friday. Can anybody tell me anything about them? Looks like oak on top... Did Polk ever use oak on 1C’s?ibecoubc17jt.jpeg
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I like to listen, tinker, listen and repeat.
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Comments

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Depending on the asking price, who cares what veneer was used?, lol.

    Really though, the more important things are: is the cabinet sealed (pass the leak down test), and which interconnect cable is used?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Probably 90% of the 1C's were oak veneer, which is what those are.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Bigbang
    Bigbang Posts: 233
    Fair point. 350. I’ll look up the leak down test. Not sure I’ve heard that. All I know is when I gently push a driver in the other drivers will react. I think it’s a Blade-pin IC.

    Thanks for the info Jesse.
    I like to listen, tinker, listen and repeat.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Push and hold in the PR not one of the drivers. The 4 drivers will pop out and slowly recede to rest. Average time is 3 seconds. More is good, less means there is an air leak.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,438
    those look pretty clean. Decent price. Hope the IC cord comes with them
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    Randy/Maine
  • Bigbang
    Bigbang Posts: 233
    He says he’s got it. We will see. Is the blade-pin better?

    Thanks again Jesse.

    He has them connected so I should be able to listen to them.

    Anything else?
    I like to listen, tinker, listen and repeat.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Your ears should tell you the rest.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
    Pin-blade is more desirable as you can use it with an AIC ic or a dreadnaught. Either will allow use of non common ground amps or mono blocks.
  • tonyp063
    tonyp063 Posts: 1,044
    edited June 2018
    Can't speak to the pin/blade or blade/blade part of it. More experienced members may comment.

    The push test Jesse spoke to is the first & most important part. It'll tell you if you have toasted mid-woofers, or not, & whether or not there are air leaks you need to chase down.

    *assuming* you want to go full bore on them, you'll then have an idea as to what you'll need to budget for outlay.
    Crossover rebuild? (absolutely)
    Tweeter upgrade? (yes. this too)

    And then the rabbit hole opens :)
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,438
    Try em with the Adcom :)
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    Randy/Maine
  • Bigbang
    Bigbang Posts: 233
    boston1450 wrote: »
    Try em with the Adcom :)
    If I only had the right pre amp :-)
    I like to listen, tinker, listen and repeat.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,438
    Hopefully easy to get. So many different ones. But hard to get a everything you want in one preamp & with phono/remote. Ive had several but cant remember model. Amps I like the 545 555 on SDA's 2b 1c crs+'s. Sweet match ups. i have never heard the 535. Maybe someday on some B&W bookies.
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    Randy/Maine
  • crcolby
    crcolby Posts: 18
    Your pair is better cosmetically than the pair I just bought at the same price. My serial numbers were 11,800+, and the interconnect attached to a generic barrier strip. That strip has a Polk sticker nearby saying to just use speaker wire to interconnect. (I know it's Polk's sticker because it warned against common-ground amplifiers.) I think mine must have been among the last produced, and Polk wasn't going to order another run of blade-pin connectors.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Post a picture of that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,776
    Please post a picture...
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    I have 2 pairs of 1C's. One just like the pic, with the light oak veneer. The other with with darker (walnut?) veneer. I really like mine. Good price! Hope you get em!

    Lot's of info on this site for making improvements, from minor easy tweaks to a complete overhaul. :smile:

    Keep us posted!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • codycatalist
    codycatalist Posts: 2,662
    If it ends up missing the Pin/Blade IC let me know, I have an extra one laying around after I upgraded my binding posts to take Speakon connections.
    Just a dude doing dude-ly things

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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Very nice gesture @codycatalist !
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • crcolby
    crcolby Posts: 18
    Two people requested photos of my new SDA 1C's with barrier strips for the interconnect in place of blade and pin. I've attached photos from the left-channel speaker. Polk's label's reference to "polarity as marked" puzzled me until I used a magnifying glass to detect a faint red tint to the connector on the left (viewed from behind the speaker) and then a faint black or dark green on the other pole. The red doesn't seem to come through on my posted photo; the black looks quite dark, but that's more an artifact of the photography.

    I had never heard the term "barrier strip," but an internet search led to https://www.parts-express.com/nte-25-b500-02-2-pole-20a-panel-mount-barrier-terminal-strip--090-862

    There's a button on this site's leave-a-comment feature which supposedly inserts an image, but no amount of selecting files or dragging and dropping actually works. Also, attempting to paste something in the URL box just causes the box to disappear. I accept advice.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    edited June 2018
    Thanks for the pics.

    Someone added the label and barrier strip, Polk would not have done that. BTW, yours are the early blade/blade model. You cannot use the AI-1 or Dreadnought with your speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • crcolby
    crcolby Posts: 18
    Thanks for the warning, but it comes as bad news. Please explain how the 11,000 serial number is early. Raife Smith's handbook (2011) says I can use the AI-1 with SDA-1C serial numbers right 5975 upwards and left 6001 upwards, and it refers to serial numbers in the range 5975 through 6678 as "early."
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,475
    I think Jesse's going off the sticker diagram shows a blade blade interconnect outside the binder cup.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    I don't know what's up with your serial number, but the pin/blade version only uses one wire and yours require two, same as the blade/blade version.

    Pull a few of your mid-drivers, there should be a date stamped on the back of them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    Additional info, 1C production stopped in 1990 while other SDA production didn't stop until 1992, so it's not a matter of Polk running out of pin/blade SDA sockets.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,475
    It may not require it Jesse, it may well be a broken P/B socket and that is what the owner came up with because of the sticker.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
    Pull the PR and post some photos of what the crossover looks like. If its the single rectangular crossover, 4th generation. If it's split round crossovers, could be a transitional PITA.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
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  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    Pull the PR and post some photos of what the crossover looks like. If its the single rectangular crossover, 4th generation. If it's split round crossovers, could be a transitional PITA.

    Hey hey I got a transitional PITA! :smile: Of which you hooked me up! Thanks David!
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • Did Bigbang end up getting those SDA 1C's? I have a pair of the Studio version (black ash finish) and love them.
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,100
    I suspect that someone with a conscience added the barrier strip...and printed a label to match. Perhaps a professional repair shop, after the supply of sockets dried up.




    A-L-L SDA 1Cs can use an isolation transformer (AI-1 or Dreadnought) provided the two SDA socket contacts are electrically connected inside the cabinet.

    Some early 1Cs and 2Bs had one contact of the SDA socket connected, and the other had no wire attached. A foot of wire, wire ends, and some labor fixes that problem.

    Or just connect the negative wires of the isolation transformer to the negative speaker post on each cabinet.

    Point being, ALL 1Cs can be made compatible with the isolation transformer.
    1Bs are another story...
  • Jaybeez
    Jaybeez Posts: 737
    If it ends up missing the Pin/Blade IC let me know, I have an extra one laying around after I upgraded my binding posts to take Speakon connections.
    If it ends up missing the Pin/Blade IC let me know, I have an extra one laying around after I upgraded my binding posts to take Speakon connections.

    Couldn't tell if he took you up on this, but would be willing to buy off you if still available. My seller included a subwoofer cable with mine :p