1st gen SDA CRS question
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Trying to stay objective while breaking in the new guys, but I suspect you may be right, FestYboy.
Thinking ahead, I know Polk recommends the RD0194-1 tweeter to replace the SL-1000. But, has anyone tried a different tweeter that they like better? Any opinions on the Midwest substitute?
https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/tweeters/dome/mw-audio-mt-4115-1-inch-dome-tweeter/ -
Trying to stay objective while breaking in the new guys, but I suspect you may be right, FestYboy.
Thinking ahead, I know Polk recommends the RD0194-1 tweeter to replace the SL-1000. But, has anyone tried a different tweeter that they like better? Any opinions on the Midwest substitute?
https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/tweeters/dome/mw-audio-mt-4115-1-inch-dome-tweeter/
Only you can decide, they seem to be love/hate no middle ground. The problem with the RD-0194 is you will need to enlarge the hole as the SL1000 has a smaller face plate.
The RD-0194 is all around a better tweeter than both mentioned. -
Appreciate your input, pitdogg2.
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Trying to stay objective while breaking in the new guys, but I suspect you may be right, FestYboy.
Thinking ahead, I know Polk recommends the RD0194-1 tweeter to replace the SL-1000. But, has anyone tried a different tweeter that they like better? Any opinions on the Midwest substitute?
https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/shop/home-audio/tweeters/dome/mw-audio-mt-4115-1-inch-dome-tweeter/
You CANNOT use the Midwest Peerless Clone in place of the SL1000. The Crossover is NOT designed for the Peerless, No 1st or 2nd generation SDA was.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks Dave! The MW ad is really misleading. Are the RD0194s back in stock?
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I dropped in a set of Daytons DC-28f's in my CRS+ when one of the RD0194s would not stop resonating. Very happy with them. The truncated dc-28ft's will fit the factory cabinet tweeter holes and seal completly.... fyiDon't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Call Polk CS tomorrow. Supposed to be getting a new batch inThanks Dave! The MW ad is really misleading. Are the RD0194s back in stock?
Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
It's gonna be hard to beat the CRS...
You were right, my friend! Elac UB5s, MartinLogan Motion LX16s and Monitor Bronze 2s have all failed to measure up. The MLs were the last to go down. I liked their clarity. If I could get that out of my CRSs I'd be ecstatic. I'm wondering if any of the upgrades/mods would accomplish that?
BTW, I've now gotten conflicting answers from Polk CS regarding tweeter upgrade on the first gen CRS. First, I was told the RD0194 is recommended; and today I was told there is no Polk replacement for the SL1000 tweeters in my CRSs (only the MW Speaker Peerless clone). What's the straight dope on this?
Thanks! -
If mods are in the future for the CRS, consider making the XOs the same as the sl2k version, then run the 194s. Or, since you're in there, go full Monty and do the TL mod. Anything and everything is better than the SL1k.
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I understand that the TL mod cannot be done on the first gen CRS. I've read/been told that the TL mod cannot be done on the first gen CRS. Right/wrong?
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The TL mod cannot be done to the CRS.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The RD0194 is the correct replacement for the SL1000 and SL2000. Whoever told you the Peerless clones from Midwest Speaker are the replacements, is wrong.
The Peerless clone, is for the HF1000 (Peerless). Peerless were never used in SDAs.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
All credit to Wraith Smith II, PHDHome Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
If mods are in the future for the CRS, consider making the XOs the same as the sl2k version, then run the 194s. Or, since you're in there, go full Monty and do the TL mod. Anything and everything is better than the SL1k.
The difference between the CRS/SL1000 and CRS/SL2000, was the elimination of the fuses, Polyswitches were added, and downstream resistor values adjusted accordingly.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
Thanks to all! Sent you an email, David. You da'' man!
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westmassguy wrote: »If mods are in the future for the CRS, consider making the XOs the same as the sl2k version, then run the 194s. Or, since you're in there, go full Monty and do the TL mod. Anything and everything is better than the SL1k.
The difference between the CRS/SL1000 and CRS/SL2000, was the elimination of the fuses, Polyswitches were added, and downstream resistor values adjusted accordingly.
Ok, so I wasn't too far off track... I'm learning (slowly).The TL mod cannot be done to the CRS.
Are you referring specifically to the CRS and not the CRS+? And then what makes up the SDA 4.1 (looks much like a single tweet CRS to my eyes).
And along those lines, if most people remove the SDA tweet from the CRS, what's stopping one from modding the XO to TL spec? I know I've seen other SDAs upgraded to TL spec.
Or is it a blade/blade pin/blade thing? (I'm not seeing that being the case).
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The original CRS cannot be TL'd regardless.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
. Or is it a blade/blade pin/blade thing? (I'm not seeing that being the case).
There is a big difference between those two. As you know pin/blade can be used with non-common ground amps with the right equipment. Blade/blade cannot be at all period. In a B/b crossover both blades carry signal nothing goes direct to ground on the binding post.
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. Or is it a blade/blade pin/blade thing? (I'm not seeing that being the case).
There is a big difference between those two. As you know pin/blade can be used with non-common ground amps with the right equipment. Blade/blade cannot be at all period. In a B/b crossover both blades carry signal nothing goes direct to ground on the binding post.
Yes, that part I understand. What I'm not understanding is what (exactly) makes the CRS unable to be TL'ed. I've seen TL 10s and I've seen SDA'ed 10s, so... The CRS are closest to 2A/B or 10s in configuration and to see can be TL'ed, so why not the CRS? What am I missing?
(Not arguing, just truly curious). -
Now I'm peaked. I am pretty sure that Dave TL'd to pair of SDA2a so yea .....
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You can drop in the TL'd CRS+ crossovers and swap out the 6503 dimensional drivers with 6502s or 6511s. IMO the tweeter sounds better as close to the stereo driver anyways.Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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Now I'm peaked. I am pretty sure that Dave TL'd to pair of SDA2a so yea .....
I recall something to that effect as well.
So the question remains: what makes the CRS different to the point that "it can't be done"? -
The crossover circuit.......they different, VERY different.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally i was thinking that the two board cross over had something to do with it but remembered the sda2a that Dave TL'd so i backed out my comment. -
The reason I was able to "TL" my 2As, is the High-Pass circuit is identical to the CRS+/2B, with the exception of a padding resistor in series with the shunt inductor. I tested it with and without the resistor, and decided to leave it in place. If you read the 2A rebuild listed in my signature, it explains everything I did. It is not sanctioned by Polk as an official modification however.
The1984 CRS is 2nd generation, and the high-pass circuit is quite different than any other later SDA that was modified. I would not recommend trying it.Home Theater/2 Channel:
Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
dhsspeakerservice.com/ -
So, after installing the RD0194 tweeters (all 4), I've spent more time listening with the dimensional fuses removed -- and, I like it. But, I sometimes feel some high-end musical elements aren't coming through as prominently as I remember them. Makes me wonder whether re-connecting the tweeters in some way to the stereo crossover module might improve the sound. I suppose the original stereo tweeter circuit would have to be duplicated and the tweeter connected thereto.
Does this sound feasible/desireable? Has anyone done it? How did it work out?
Thanks
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You don't want to do that, it won't sound good.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Jesse, with all due respect, why?/how do you know?
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Well for starters it doesn’t sound good with them playing together in stock form and since the SDA tweeter is around half the volume of the stereo tweeter it's going to be even worse with them playing at the same level. Comb filtering is the issue.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
