Upgrades & crossover work suggestions - pics ...

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JNinja
JNinja Posts: 100
in Vintage Speakers
Hey guys, I started a new thread here, regarding my SDA-2a's...

So, I have made (3) changes recently...

1-Replaced tweeters with RDO-194's
2-Replaced the Polyswitches (which were constantly tripping), with new one's.
3-Temporarily changed all power sources of components to direct (no surge protectors/strips)

Some or all of these, were mentioned, suggested, or alluded to in other threads I have created or participated in...

Pictures:


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Interesting that the (2) switches that came out- don't match?

an2vbf8s7hbe.jpg

Mid-solder of polyswitches

prb7x80gd622.jpg

So here we are.... after changing out Poly's, I think I'd like to do some upgrades...but I need help.

I want to know, which component(s) should I upgrade first, that will be the most efficient and cost effective.

I would like to stay below $200 SAID & DONE.

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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Anyone ?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,808
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    Per crossover, replace the 12uF and the two 20uF's with Sonicaps. Replace the two resistors with Mills. Remove and do not replace the 750pF bypass cap.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Thank you. What about the Low pass crossover? I think I want to do both.. I think it has (2) 130uF per speaker?
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,588
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    You'll be way over budget if you tackle those. Not to mention you'll need to be creative to fit back on the board.
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    JNinja wrote: »
    Thank you. What about the Low pass crossover? I think I want to do both.. I think it has (2) 130uF per speaker?
    The 260uf NP Electrolytics replaced with Metalized Polypropylene would equal or exceed your budget by themselves. Bennic makes a 250uf NP Electrolytic, for a few dollars each. Those caps are part of the Sub Bass Drive Circuit.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    I found some for $60 a piece, which would be about $240 just in those caps...so I'm thinking $400 said and done
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Is the bang worth the buck? I read all sorts of threads on here, and took info the best I could. I'm not sure now, if maybe I should start with the high pass, and maybe low pass down the road if I decide too.

    It seems I could accomplish all of the high pass well within $200, for sonicap
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  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,850
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    My 2As have been fully modded with Sonicaps for the Hi & Lo-Pass, Dayton 5% for the Sub Bass Drive, all new Jantzen Inductors, Erse SuperQs for the Sub Bass Drive, and they've been "TL'd" as well.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer

    dhsspeakerservice.com/
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  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
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    hi jninja, I was looking at the poliswicht, solder Joints. I think you may have a cold joint there, I woul reflow and add tinny bit more solder and cover the leads, the goal is to achieve a shinny connection.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,588
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    cortico wrote: »
    hi jninja, I was looking at the poliswicht, solder Joints. I think you may have a cold joint there, I woul reflow and add tinny bit more solder and cover the leads, the goal is to achieve a shinny connection.

    Agree I hope that wasn't finished when picture was taken....

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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    cortico wrote: »
    hi jninja, I was looking at the poliswicht, solder Joints. I think you may have a cold joint there, I would reflow and add tinny bit more solder and cover the leads, the goal is to achieve a shinny connection.

    No it was not finished. If you look below the picture it says "mid-solder" ... thanks for the look out though.
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    I'm thinking about only doing the 12's and 20's now since I'm 'upgrading' amp to the P:arasound 1200ii ... thoughts?
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  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
    edited July 2015
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    Yes, as mencioned above, you will be fine changing all caps and resistors with good parts. You can replace the tweeter with rdo194 to go a step further and leave existing inductors.

    People here tend to prefer sonicaps or clarity caps and Mundorf or Mill resistors, those are the top choices and where used several times with great success.

    Enjoy, recaping speakers is fun!
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    I ordered (2) 12uf Sonicaps, (2) 20uf Dayton's, and (4) mills 5w 2.7ohm resistors...about $100
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  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
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    Excellent
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Can you all verify that these parts are correct please ?

    I'd like to install soon... any pointers in the soldering I should know? I did the Poly's last week, so these are not any different to install I believe. Also, how do you know which direction to install- just by keeping the writing the same as on the original?

    Thanks


    6f3af6yqhld7.jpg

    l83okz0g7zgb.jpg
    e461ap7am514.jpg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,808
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    The caps are non-polar, so are the resistor for that matter, so the direction doesn't matter.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,264
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    Other than color, are the black Mills resistors any different from the tan colored Mills resistors that were used in my crossover upgrade?

    2p1kh9e2wtld.jpg

    eo383vfbehji.jpg

    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
    edited July 2015
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    Black are 5w, brown 12w.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,264
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    motorhead43026 wrote: »
    Black are 5w, brown 12w.

    Thanks!
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    e5bx9jbtz1od.jpg

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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    I think it was right away BRIGHTER (?), and a bit CRISPER (?), and that's what I've notice so far at low to medium volume.

    My HCA-1200ii comes in tomorrow!

    BTW, my newly installed Poly's ended up tripping (also)..both... let's just say it was after prolonged play, but not even nearly as loud as I can comfortable play for a short duration. I've read that Polys are known to have "false alarm" trips. Though, some here insist I'm 'clipping'. I don't now, but clipping doesn't make sense to me honestly, in this situation.
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  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
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    Have you considered taking the ps out and replacing it with a .5 ohm resistor? That is what most here do.
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    I'm even more considering it now...but I want to see if it still trips with the new HCA-1200ii amp. Obviously, it's either doing it's job OR it's tripping 'false alarm'. I'm really starting to suspect 'false alarm'.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,808
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    I think it was right away BRIGHTER (?), and a bit CRISPER (?), and that's what I've notice so far at low to medium volume.

    New caps need 200 hours to burn in, so don't judge what you're hearing now, but brighter/crisper are not words I would use to describe the RD0194-1 tweeters regardless. You should have used Sonicaps for the 20uF's.

    Brand new polyswitches and you're tripping them? Something is wrong and I seriously doubt it's the polys.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
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    Yes they should not trip, like you said, keep the insurance it's something with that amp.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Thanks guys. I didn't notice brighter after the RDO's...but after the caps it definitely seems brighter now!

    Maybe it's a heat issue withy the amp? That's all I can think, because it sounds great at med-high level. Anyways, my new Parasound 1200 will be in today. Will advise if it was a good "upgrade", and how Polys are holding up after.

    Thanks!
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,906
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    If I'm not mistaken, once those Poly's trip, the next time becomes a lot easier. Most replace with the resistors as mentioned. Plus some think the poly's take away some to the sound quality so that's another reason to swap them out for resistors.

    Let us know how the new amp works for ya.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
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  • JNinja
    JNinja Posts: 100
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    Thanks Tony.

    So guys, hooked up the HCA-1200i today. It sounds very good. I will honestly say, so far, I hear absolutely no difference between that and the ASHLY FET-500 at low to medium volume.

    High volume, it think it stays clearer, higher in volume and can be pushed more- but who knows, because the polys are tripping AGAIN.

    I realize once they trip it becomes easier to trip.... but I think I'm going to switch them out with the .5 resistors. It's hard to imagine I'm going to blow the tweeters. In various, loud, ridiculous, car stereo's I've never blown tweeters- ever. I don't see why I would blow these RDO's. I really think these Poly's are conservative, and intrusive. I also feel like they maybe add a tiny bit of 'white' (noise) ?

    If I blow them, and end up having to order new RDO's then so be it, but I'm sick of messing with these Poly's already. I feel like I can't give a full evaluation of this amp until the poly's are gone. I can't play at high volume with them, it's just ridiculous interference.

    Thanks Guys
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  • PolkieMan
    PolkieMan Posts: 2,446
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    The larger SDA's were designed for the higher volumes otherwise there would have been no reason to design and build the SRS SDA line.
    POLK SDA 2.3 TLS BOUGHT NEW IN 1990, Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-198
    POLK CSI-A6 POLK MONITOR 70'S ONKYO TX NR-808 SONY CDP-333ES
    PIONEER PL-510A SONY BDP S5100
    POLK SDA 1C BOUGHT USED 2011,Gimpod/Sonic Caps/Mills RDO-194
    ONKYO HT RC-360 SONY BDP S590 TECHNICS SL BD-1
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