Upgrades & crossover work suggestions - pics ...

JNinja

Hey guys, I started a new thread here, regarding my SDA-2a's...

So, I have made (3) changes recently...

1-Replaced tweeters with RDO-194's
2-Replaced the Polyswitches (which were constantly tripping), with new one's.
3-Temporarily changed all power sources of components to direct (no surge protectors/strips)

Some or all of these, were mentioned, suggested, or alluded to in other threads I have created or participated in...

Pictures:





Interesting that the (2) switches that came out- don't match?



Mid-solder of polyswitches



So here we are.... after changing out Poly's, I think I'd like to do some upgrades...but I need help.

I want to know, which component(s) should I upgrade first, that will be the most efficient and cost effective.

I would like to stay below $200 SAID & DONE.

JNinja

Anyone ?

F1nut

Per crossover, replace the 12uF and the two 20uF's with Sonicaps. Replace the two resistors with Mills. Remove and do not replace the 750pF bypass cap.

JNinja

Thank you. What about the Low pass crossover? I think I want to do both.. I think it has (2) 130uF per speaker?

pitdogg2

You'll be way over budget if you tackle those. Not to mention you'll need to be creative to fit back on the board.

westmassguy

JNinja wrote: »

Thank you. What about the Low pass crossover? I think I want to do both.. I think it has (2) 130uF per speaker?

The 260uf NP Electrolytics replaced with Metalized Polypropylene would equal or exceed your budget by themselves. Bennic makes a 250uf NP Electrolytic, for a few dollars each. Those caps are part of the Sub Bass Drive Circuit.

JNinja

I found some for $60 a piece, which would be about $240 just in those caps...so I'm thinking $400 said and done

JNinja

Is the bang worth the buck? I read all sorts of threads on here, and took info the best I could. I'm not sure now, if maybe I should start with the high pass, and maybe low pass down the road if I decide too.

It seems I could accomplish all of the high pass well within $200, for sonicap

westmassguy

My 2As have been fully modded with Sonicaps for the Hi & Lo-Pass, Dayton 5% for the Sub Bass Drive, all new Jantzen Inductors, Erse SuperQs for the Sub Bass Drive, and they've been "TL'd" as well.

cortico

hi jninja, I was looking at the poliswicht, solder Joints. I think you may have a cold joint there, I woul reflow and add tinny bit more solder and cover the leads, the goal is to achieve a shinny connection.

pitdogg2

cortico wrote: »

hi jninja, I was looking at the poliswicht, solder Joints. I think you may have a cold joint there, I woul reflow and add tinny bit more solder and cover the leads, the goal is to achieve a shinny connection.

Agree I hope that wasn't finished when picture was taken....

JNinja

cortico wrote: »

hi jninja, I was looking at the poliswicht, solder Joints. I think you may have a cold joint there, I would reflow and add tinny bit more solder and cover the leads, the goal is to achieve a shinny connection.

No it was not finished. If you look below the picture it says "mid-solder" ... thanks for the look out though.

JNinja

I'm thinking about only doing the 12's and 20's now since I'm 'upgrading' amp to the P:arasound 1200ii ... thoughts?

cortico

Yes, as mencioned above, you will be fine changing all caps and resistors with good parts. You can replace the tweeter with rdo194 to go a step further and leave existing inductors.

People here tend to prefer sonicaps or clarity caps and Mundorf or Mill resistors, those are the top choices and where used several times with great success.

Enjoy, recaping speakers is fun!

JNinja

I ordered (2) 12uf Sonicaps, (2) 20uf Dayton's, and (4) mills 5w 2.7ohm resistors...about $100

cortico

Excellent

JNinja

Can you all verify that these parts are correct please ?

I'd like to install soon... any pointers in the soldering I should know? I did the Poly's last week, so these are not any different to install I believe. Also, how do you know which direction to install- just by keeping the writing the same as on the original?

Thanks

F1nut

The caps are non-polar, so are the resistor for that matter, so the direction doesn't matter.

TennMan

Other than color, are the black Mills resistors any different from the tan colored Mills resistors that were used in my crossover upgrade?

motorhead43026

Black are 5w, brown 12w.

TennMan

motorhead43026 wrote: »

Black are 5w, brown 12w.

Thanks!

JNinja

JNinja

I think it was right away BRIGHTER (?), and a bit CRISPER (?), and that's what I've notice so far at low to medium volume.

My HCA-1200ii comes in tomorrow!

BTW, my newly installed Poly's ended up tripping (also)..both... let's just say it was after prolonged play, but not even nearly as loud as I can comfortable play for a short duration. I've read that Polys are known to have "false alarm" trips. Though, some here insist I'm 'clipping'. I don't now, but clipping doesn't make sense to me honestly, in this situation.

Faustin

Have you considered taking the ps out and replacing it with a .5 ohm resistor? That is what most here do.

JNinja

I'm even more considering it now...but I want to see if it still trips with the new HCA-1200ii amp. Obviously, it's either doing it's job OR it's tripping 'false alarm'. I'm really starting to suspect 'false alarm'.

F1nut

I think it was right away BRIGHTER (?), and a bit CRISPER (?), and that's what I've notice so far at low to medium volume.

New caps need 200 hours to burn in, so don't judge what you're hearing now, but brighter/crisper are not words I would use to describe the RD0194-1 tweeters regardless. You should have used Sonicaps for the 20uF's.

Brand new polyswitches and you're tripping them? Something is wrong and I seriously doubt it's the polys.

PolkieMan

Yes they should not trip, like you said, keep the insurance it's something with that amp.

JNinja

Thanks guys. I didn't notice brighter after the RDO's...but after the caps it definitely seems brighter now!

Maybe it's a heat issue withy the amp? That's all I can think, because it sounds great at med-high level. Anyways, my new Parasound 1200 will be in today. Will advise if it was a good "upgrade", and how Polys are holding up after.

Thanks!

tonyb

If I'm not mistaken, once those Poly's trip, the next time becomes a lot easier. Most replace with the resistors as mentioned. Plus some think the poly's take away some to the sound quality so that's another reason to swap them out for resistors.

Let us know how the new amp works for ya.

JNinja

Thanks Tony.

So guys, hooked up the HCA-1200i today. It sounds very good. I will honestly say, so far, I hear absolutely no difference between that and the ASHLY FET-500 at low to medium volume.

High volume, it think it stays clearer, higher in volume and can be pushed more- but who knows, because the polys are tripping AGAIN.

I realize once they trip it becomes easier to trip.... but I think I'm going to switch them out with the .5 resistors. It's hard to imagine I'm going to blow the tweeters. In various, loud, ridiculous, car stereo's I've never blown tweeters- ever. I don't see why I would blow these RDO's. I really think these Poly's are conservative, and intrusive. I also feel like they maybe add a tiny bit of 'white' (noise) ?

If I blow them, and end up having to order new RDO's then so be it, but I'm sick of messing with these Poly's already. I feel like I can't give a full evaluation of this amp until the poly's are gone. I can't play at high volume with them, it's just ridiculous interference.

Thanks Guys

PolkieMan

The larger SDA's were designed for the higher volumes otherwise there would have been no reason to design and build the SRS SDA line.