Spiking Subwoofer

WMG i got those big spikes today. WOW those will work well on the 1c's. Im going to use them on the rta's & the 11's im gonna flip them over tomorrow & look/measure & design some cross braces & use them on those also. Excellent price & well made..... I gotta pull everything out tomorrow as i got the spade-banana connects for the MIT's. I cant wait to hook them to the amp & 1c's & hear the difference in cables. I just hope the clips will fit in the Denon POA. 2 weeks from HKong has slowed me down. But everything is in place. I didnt want to spike the 1c's till i had the cables installed. Too old to keep moving them around. Sliding is easier

Thanks that was a great tip. I did with the sub too. As soon as i drilled & saw what kind of material it was-i went & applied it.

Upon looking at base of Monitor 11's i have decided not to spike them. I could remove base & spike them BUT id loose 2 1/2 inches of height & that would lower the tweeter which is almost right where youd want it-even better if spiked.. The base upon looking at it is fairly small. I could easily add better wood inside to spike them BUT by adding sturdier wood to inside the base it would make it tipsy. I could remove existing base & make base using a better wood & laminate it & then spike them. Maybe later if i really want to take from the original stock look of them

2 inches. I was kinda hoping to raise them about 1-1 1/2 inches. To bring the tweets up a tad. I dont want to need stands. I dont think it would take much to remove & replace the stock base with a better wood & laminate it to match. I dont dare use that 1/2-3/4 inch board with the spikes. The base is 4 peices & no side/corner braces. So it would be easy remove & replace with same BUT better material.

That is what my original thought was. Then i flipped them over & it would work BUT i was afraid it would make them wobbly. I may take another look. If i was to do that i would run block of wood down the whole length as there is nothing in its way. Better support. I may just do it & see how they stand after. Spikes are cheap & worse case i can just remove them...... Just took picture. 11 1/2 by 8.... Thats the problem. To put them 7 inch apart they might be wobbly

WMG set me up with these. I got the ones for the 1c's already & they are very nice & priced right

Thank you Dave. Everything worked out great. I think the dark oak still wasnt dark enough. I will pull em out & get some darker. Like the quality of those spikes

Everything is flush. To add a plate on front & sides it would be a easy project. I think i have something on hand that would work too.. I think when i apply the spikes to the 1c's im going to do it when im adding the rings. Those go in there pretty hard. I did as you said with the drill bit. Even with the drivers glued its not worth the chance of movement with the magnets. May even remove crossover to be safe

I had the oak on hand. So the only cost i had on this project was the spikes. Here is a better daytime picture. I may be able to get darker stain/poly to make they match up

Never considered that. Thanks for the idea. I will add it to the list. Ive got a ton of projects lined up & bike n boat are top priority right now. I will leave the speaker projects for rainy days

They go right thru the carpet to the plywood for direct contact. Made a big difference on the 1c's & subwoofer