Spiking Subwoofer

boston1450

So i got my new subwoofer mini & i didnt like the little feet they had. So i spiked them after listening to it for a bit. Came out pretty good. I had spikes i bought for the 1c's
which were way too small. They worked great on the sub. Havent listened to it yet & hope to tonight. The sub is 3/4in off carpet. & when i sat it down in temp spot early this morning it went through carpet & hit plywood nicely

boston1450

gce

Yep, that should work like a charm.

westmassguy

I spiked my SVS too. Big difference. Of course now the entire house shakes, but it's worth some broken knick knacks

boston1450

WMG i got those big spikes today. WOW those will work well on the 1c's. Im going to use them on the rta's & the 11's im gonna flip them over tomorrow & look/measure & design some cross braces & use them on those also. Excellent price & well made..... I gotta pull everything out tomorrow as i got the spade-banana connects for the MIT's. I cant wait to hook them to the amp & 1c's & hear the difference in cables. I just hope the clips will fit in the Denon POA. 2 weeks from HKong has slowed me down. But everything is in place. I didnt want to spike the 1c's till i had the cables installed. Too old to keep moving them around. Sliding is easier

westmassguy

Can't beat them for the price. When you put the inserts in, don't forget the epoxy. I got that tip from Jesse. Works like a charm.

boston1450

Thanks that was a great tip. I did with the sub too. As soon as i drilled & saw what kind of material it was-i went & applied it.

boston1450

Forgot to add. The sub was a BNIB Polk Audio RM-6750 came as a HT kit i guess. I needed a small one for the mini 2/1 Onkyo. It is quite the little guy for the small room

boston1450

Upon looking at base of Monitor 11's i have decided not to spike them. I could remove base & spike them BUT id loose 2 1/2 inches of height & that would lower the tweeter which is almost right where youd want it-even better if spiked.. The base upon looking at it is fairly small. I could easily add better wood inside to spike them BUT by adding sturdier wood to inside the base it would make it tipsy. I could remove existing base & make base using a better wood & laminate it & then spike them. Maybe later if i really want to take from the original stock look of them

westmassguy

Randy, how tall are the bases? I removed them on my 2As, and used the spikes I told you about, Ended up being the same height with the brass pucks on the hardwood floors.

boston1450

2 inches. I was kinda hoping to raise them about 1-1 1/2 inches. To bring the tweets up a tad. I dont want to need stands. I dont think it would take much to remove & replace the stock base with a better wood & laminate it to match. I dont dare use that 1/2-3/4 inch board with the spikes. The base is 4 peices & no side/corner braces. So it would be easy remove & replace with same BUT better material.

F1nut

Add 1"x1" or larger glue blocks to the inside corners of the base, then install the spikes in them. Easy peasy.

boston1450

That is what my original thought was. Then i flipped them over & it would work BUT i was afraid it would make them wobbly. I may take another look. If i was to do that i would run block of wood down the whole length as there is nothing in its way. Better support. I may just do it & see how they stand after. Spikes are cheap & worse case i can just remove them...... Just took picture. 11 1/2 by 8.... Thats the problem. To put them 7 inch apart they might be wobbly

F1nut

Install the insert so that the spike, when screwed in, overlaps the original base frame. That way you gain the maximum footprint. Regardless, when spiked they are not going to be wobbly.

F1nut

Forgot to add......I'd also suggest using a large spike such as the big Dayton or Adona Multi-Element.

boston1450

Got the big ones on tthe way now & im going to add wood completely around the inside & that should work out well. Thank you for info

boston1450

WMG set me up with these. I got the ones for the 1c's already & they are very nice & priced right

boston1450

Well the Monitor 11's are spiked. I used a 3/4inch thick 13in wide BY 9 1/2in deep oak board & stained it dark oak after i applied the spikes off the speaker. It is the same size OD as the 2inch base as you see above. It looks much better than the pictures im going to post. These are close ups & i will take some more tomorrow of the complete speaker. I put them in there place i gained a solid 1 1/4 inch in height. That put the tweeter in the sweet spot & tomorrow i will snap on the tube amp & see how those Peerless tweets & mw6600x's sound.

boston1450

boston1450

boston1450

westmassguy

Looking good Randy

boston1450

Thank you Dave. Everything worked out great. I think the dark oak still wasnt dark enough. I will pull em out & get some darker. Like the quality of those spikes

westmassguy

I'd blackout the original base and the new piece.
Can't beat the price for solid, hardened copped with gold plate. Pucks can be bought pretty cheap too. I think I paid like $10-12.00 for eight brass pucks

boston1450

Everything is flush. To add a plate on front & sides it would be a easy project. I think i have something on hand that would work too.. I think when i apply the spikes to the 1c's im going to do it when im adding the rings. Those go in there pretty hard. I did as you said with the drill bit. Even with the drivers glued its not worth the chance of movement with the magnets. May even remove crossover to be safe

westmassguy

boston1450 wrote: »

Everything is flush. To add a plate on front & sides it would be a easy project. I think i have something on hand that would work too.. I think when i apply the spikes to the 1c's im going to do it when im adding the rings. Those go in there pretty hard. I did as you said with the drill bit. Even with the drivers glued its not worth the chance of movement with the magnets. May even remove crossover to be safe

Of course they went in hard, you put them in solid oak. Particle Board or MDF is a lot easier.

boston1450

I had the oak on hand. So the only cost i had on this project was the spikes. Here is a better daytime picture. I may be able to get darker stain/poly to make they match up

westmassguy

You can stain them all you want, they're never going to match. You could paint them out flat black, or even some black vinyl. Parts Express sells it.
If it's solid oak, you also have to consider warping.

boston1450

Never considered that. Thanks for the idea. I will add it to the list. Ive got a ton of projects lined up & bike n boat are top priority right now. I will leave the speaker projects for rainy days

zingo

Nice work on the spikes; they do make a big difference on carpet.

boston1450

They go right thru the carpet to the plywood for direct contact. Made a big difference on the 1c's & subwoofer