Vintage Epicure 20+ Speakers' restoration...

Mystery
Mystery Posts: 2,546
edited October 2014 in Vintage Speakers
I got these Epicure 20+ speakers in November 2012 but never got around fixing these until now.

These are the higher model of the famous EPI 100's that everyone raves about.
Think of these as two EPI 100's, one on top and one on the side. :smirk:

They are in decent shape besides few scratches/dings and some MDF break issue on the bottom stand panels.
Grill covers are missing EPI logo.

However, shocked to see duct tape surrounds on them. :angry:
He said he used them like that for a while and took them out of one speaker to take pictures for listing. Let's hope VC is okay.

BTW, the sticker says 20 - not + but these are + looking at Human site.
Top is slanted towards the front.

Link to specs: http://www.humanspeakers.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?page=e/epicure-20.txt

Pictures of these when I got them:
6t17lkecwzyz.jpg
qgb5nq1oo75h.jpg
o8jn2wnrrnsj.jpg
ise8u3s7os1q.jpg

Fast forward 2 years:
Finally, these got some attention after almost 2 years.

Duct tape came off without using anything.
If they were anything harder, I'd have used some hair dryer heat but it worked great as is.
I had to be careful though. I put pressure on the cone otherwise it could deform the cone.
Just put pressure where you are pulling and peel it off slowly by moving the pressure accordingly.

As you can see, PO used a lot of duct tape, multiple layers of it. :rage:
15581766276_6c6b7e6d3d_o.png

Cleaned drivers:
Gravity has its effect on the drivers as noticeable in the picture.
Front two cones are lower drivers and have cones up high than the drivers in the back.
The drivers on top that sit almost horizontal have spiders little bit sagging while the spiders of the lower vertical drivers still come out and hold the cone much higher.

15419444937_e47658a1e1_o.jpg

Back of drivers: Some have Sept 26 1977 date while others have Oct (Almost my age :smile: )
15419849930_bf064e500f_o.jpg

Refoamed to the cone and waiting for glue to set:
15581767606_7d478133f9_o.jpg

BTW, they are filled with fiberglass or batting really tight.
I had to push the drivers against the batting.

Let them set overnight and plugged everything together this morning.
Man these tweeters are quite amazing.
Male voices have that natural roughness most other tweeters struggle to produce.
Great highs and mids but bass is not as much as I expected from their size but my setup is not ideal so that is something to consider.

Next is to upgrade capacitor and epoxy magnets sometimes in the future...
These also have the same magnet shift issue as Polk drivers.

Also need to fix few screw holes as they have disintegrated. Larry's rings? :lol:

Here is finished product: Need to wipe down duct tape marks and wash grills...
I also flipped the drivers 180 degrees where possible.
Some drivers had no give on the wires so couldn't flip all the way but did as much as possible.

15608416345_1589e51e52_o.jpg
15422425177_356d7c35c8_o.jpg
15608417685_f4c2ca6457_o.jpg

And need to cull the herd even more :wink:15422833580_74a0372aa4_o.jpg

Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
«1

Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    Nice work Mystery! How do they sound?
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited October 2014
    drumminman wrote: »
    Nice work Mystery! How do they sound?
    Highs are really good.
    Very smooth overall sound and lots of airy details.
    I had to bump the bass little bit to bring it up to the level of the JBL L80t3 that are standing next to them.
    It may get better after the new foam loosens little bit.
    Just finished this morning and listened to about 1/2 hour before heading to work so need to spend more time.
    These are slightly inefficient compared to JBL and Polks.

    Also, need to upgrade the capacitor as it's 37 years old.
    These have the simplest crossover.
    Just one capacitor. :smiley:
    I already have the capacitor so will do soon.
    Wanted to hear how they sound as is to compare later.
    So far very engaging sound.


    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • TNHNDYMAN
    TNHNDYMAN Posts: 2,145
    Nice project. I've had several pair of 100V's and also a pair of 200's I think. Would love to hear those. Those lead wires to the tweeter are very fragile. I bought a pair of the bay last year and they arrived broken and had to search for another set. Enjoy.
    2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.

  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    TNHNDYMAN wrote: »
    Nice project. I've had several pair of 100V's and also a pair of 200's I think. Would love to hear those. Those lead wires to the tweeter are very fragile. I bought a pair of the bay last year and they arrived broken and had to search for another set. Enjoy.

    I too had quite a few pairs of 100's, some with red and some with yellow ringed tweeters.
    I also have a pair of TE 280's waiting for foam. The 280's sound better than many TE series I had so worth restore. Hopefully soon...

    These 20+ have room filling sound due to the two faces of driver arrangement.
    Will see how they do after crossover upgrade.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    Mystery, I noticed you didn't remove the dust caps and shim the voice coils. I always do, and one of the benefits besides perfect voice coil alignment, is resetting the sagging spider. Raise the cone so the spider is neutral, then raise it a hair higher, glue the new surround with the spider in the raised position. Once it's dry, the new surround will hold the spider in the neutral position.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    Mystery, I noticed you didn't remove the dust caps and shim the voice coils. I always do, and one of the benefits besides perfect voice coil alignment, is resetting the sagging spider. Raise the cone so the spider is neutral, then raise it a hair higher, glue the new surround with the spider in the raised position. Once it's dry, the new surround will hold the spider in the neutral position.

    I think cutting shims is better than test tone but I've never cut shims so not comfortable doing that.
    Plus it involves more work.
    I need to give it a try sometimes to see how that works out.

    So far, test tone has worked great on over 2 dozen speakers.
    The sagging spiders actually lifted to same level when the test tones were at work so that's good.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    Just a suggestion, as long as they work. Did you swap the top drivers with the fronts?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited October 2014
    Just a suggestion, as long as they work. Did you swap the top drivers with the fronts?

    No, I put them as they were but flipped 180 degrees to reverse any gravity effect.
    They are all same drivers so swapping may work better. Hmm...

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    If they're the same, then swap them. The ones that were in front will still have some sag, but nothing close to the top mounted drivers
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    If they're the same, then swap them. The ones that were in front will still have some sag, but nothing close to the top mounted drivers

    Will do that when I get the epoxy for magnets.
    Thanks

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited October 2014
    Just noticed this.
    If you check the drivers' back, the two on the right have rough back while the two on the left have smooth. The right drivers also have ring indentation 1/2" in the cone while left drivers are completely smooth.
    I'll have to check if they both are from the same speaker.
    Looks like slight difference depending upon the date as some have sept and some have oct date on them. May be different batch.
    Hmm...

    15419849930_bf064e500f_o.jpg

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    The mass of the cones may be different. Is there a model # stamped somewhere on them, or on the cone?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited October 2014
    The mass of the cones may be different. Is there a model # stamped somewhere on them, or on the cone?

    Not sure.
    All have 8 on the sides and date stamped on the back.
    I need to check other pictures later.

    BTW, I just confirmed from my markings on the drivers that the two drivers on the right are from one speaker and the two on the left are from one speakers.
    So both drivers on one speaker have that type of cone.
    Looks like the ones from Sept have rough back.

    Also noticed that some driver baskets have holes in the inner metal frame while others don't.
    Right front and left back drivers' frames have holes.
    Not sure what's the point of having a hole there. May be to hold terminals?
    The part of the frame where the hole is, is wider than the ones with no hole.
    Weird...

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • Looks like you cruised down restoration heaven ave on these. You got off easy...gotta love it when that happens. Enjoy.
    Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
    Benq W5000

    "Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    From my research, Human used whatever they had in stock at the time.
    Many owners have the same thing of different basket and cone papers.

    Listened more and really lacking on bass.
    The woofers move a lot but not much bass coming out.
    Maybe the tweeters are too much for the woofers. :confused:

    I'll check if they are in phase tonight but I'm pretty sure they are.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    They look like typical Rola or CTS Drivers. they supplied everybody back then.
    Are they vented or sealed? Any caps in the Lo Pass Filter?
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    edited October 2014
    Sealed.
    Crossover has only one 10uf capacitor.
    Looking at the schematics below, that 10uf cap is for the tweeters.
    Both woofers get full signal from amp, no cap, no resistor, no inductor. :astonished:

    epicure-20+.gif


    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    There's your lack of bass right there. Don't know how much you plan to invest, but a new cap in the Hi-Pass, clean the selector switch with some DeoxIT, try and balance the tweeter output, you should be fine. Acoustic suspensions designs need a lot of power compared to ported or pr.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    There's your lack of bass right there. Don't know how much you plan to invest, but a new cap in the Hi-Pass, clean the selector switch with some DeoxIT, try and balance the tweeter output, you should be fine. Acoustic suspensions designs need a lot of power compared to ported or pr.

    I already have few 10uf 100v PP capacitors.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    You're good to go then. Sealed designs usually have tighter bass, at the expense of efficiency. They can be made to go low, but don't expect the room to shake with those drivers.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    One thing I noticed is the bass gets louder farther away so may need bigger room for them.

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    Those remind me of the original Bose 601s, from late 70s, similar concept.
    You may be having room interaction, standing waves etc.
    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,017
    Have had many old EPI speakers, liked them a lot. Good bang for the buck. Enjoy!
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,286
    edited October 2014
    Have to agree with Dskip. Placement for something like those must be problematic.

    On another note, I've seen all kinds of "variations" in the vintage EPI 8" driver. Even my set of 100Vs have different screw mounts, doesn't make any difference in sound though.

    As for the T/E series. You've just got to get your ears on some T/E 360s (the BIG BOYS)...prodigious sound, fantastic imaging! The "best" of the T/E series IMO. (Probably the last gasp of decent sounding EPIs?).

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    360 eh?
    I left them for $20 bucks.
    You should have mentioned before. ;)

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • boston1450
    boston1450 Posts: 7,039
    Mystery. Those came out very nice.You do great work.Dang is it me or are those things beefy/heavy? Enjoy your Nov12 Epi's
    Randy/Maine ..RTA15TL-Cs1000p
  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    They are pretty wide and big but not much tall.

    Figured out the issue with a battery test.
    Left speaker's top woofer was out of phase even after I marked everything. :grimacing:
    That one woofer completely messed up the bass.

    After correcting that, they sound very good.
    Bass still doesn't have JBL's punch but it's really smooth and balanced.
    Just enjoyed listening to them over an hour till midnight.
    Low level on the tweeter is what I have now as normal level is slightly higher than I like.
    I think I need in between low and normal.
    Maybe capacitor upgrade will change levels slightly to my liking.

    This is indeed very nice speaker and unique design.
    The woofers are playing full range or whatever they can play and tweeter is the only one crossed over.
    Me likey!

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • westmassguy
    westmassguy Posts: 6,784
    Mystery wrote: »
    They are pretty wide and big but not much tall.

    Figured out the issue with a battery test.
    Left speaker's top woofer was out of phase even after I marked everything. :grimacing:
    That one woofer completely messed up the bass.

    After correcting that, they sound very good.
    Bass still doesn't have JBL's punch but it's really smooth and balanced.
    Just enjoyed listening to them over an hour till midnight.
    Low level on the tweeter is what I have now as normal level is slightly higher than I like.
    I think I need in between low and normal.
    Maybe capacitor upgrade will change levels slightly to my liking.

    This is indeed very nice speaker and unique design.
    The woofers are playing full range or whatever they can play and tweeter is the only one crossed over.
    Me likey!
    If the woofers have a smooth, natural roll-off, with out any resonance peaks, you can run them straight through without a Lo-Pass filter. The 601s I mentioned earlier, had no Lo-Pass filter either.
    Your schematic shows a three position switch. The normal position, is straight through, with no Resistor. Medium position has the two 5 ohm Resistors in parallel for 2.5 ohms, in Series with the Tweeter. Low position has the 5 ohm in Series with the Tweeter.
    If you're going to change the caps, might as well change the resistors to Mills or Mundorf MOX while you're at it.

    Home Theater/2 Channel:
    Front: SDA-2ATL forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/143984/my-2as-finally-finished-almost/p1
    Center: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/150760/my-center-channel-project/p1
    Surrounds & Rears: Custom Built forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/151647/my-surround-project/p1
    Sonicaps, Mills, RDO-194s-198s, Dynamat, Hurricane Nuts, Blackhole5
    Pioneer Elite VSX-72TXV, Carver PM-600, SVS PB2-Plus Subwoofer
    Cables: Speaker: Furez 10/2 with GLS Locking Banana Plugs
    Interconnect: Furez 10/2 with SpeakONs
    ICs: Custom Furez by Douglas Connections
    Den:
    Bose 901 Series II Continentals Restored, Re-Built Equalizer with Elna Silmic IIs, Sonicaps, and Silver Mica Caps
    Carver CT-3 Pre, Carver C-500

    dhsspeakerservice.com/



  • Mystery
    Mystery Posts: 2,546
    Replaced the capacitor.
    However, the crossover is a ****.
    Terminal cup can only come from the back but the binding posts prevent it from coming out.
    So instead, I soldered and hot glued within the cabinet.
    I was thinking of replacing resistors as I have them as well but need to take terminal cup out.
    Hot glue gave me a middle finger.
    When I took the glue gun out of the woofer hole, a big drop landed on my middle finger and now I have a big blister right below the nail. :angry:
    Swapped the woofers and put some wood glue on the bottom stands.
    I'll let the glue dry before standing them up.

    Original capacitor also is poly so might have been okay but not as good as new.
    Original crossover:
    15439340269_9a3a3f256f_o.jpg

    Capacitor replaced along with old capacitor on the side:
    15625981725_3cd4aabdcb_o.jpg

    Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
    Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze.
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,286
    edited October 2014
    They're never going to sound like the bass on the JBL. Different design. Those JBLs have some slamming bass/reflex action. The EPIs are sealed; New England like sound.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]