weak bass in RTi10
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Interesting comments by all, thanks to all for taking the time. Here's another opinion on the subject, just to flail on the demised equine some more.
See post #62 & 63.
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/forum/thread/130932/passive-biamping-how-much-improvement/60
As well, I think I'm beginning to understand the nature of power ratings on these AVR's. The Pio 1325 has continous average output of 110W for 7 channels but the power consumption spec reads 400W. Based on info I've found on-line, I can expect maybe 50-70% of that 400W as available (continuous?) power, so I'm looking at somewhere between 200-280W. So driving just two channels in stereo listening I should expect close to the 2 x 110W rated output. Multi-channel will of course be much less.2 CH - SB Touch, CA 840C, CA 840Av2, PSB Imagine T
HT - Pioneer 1325, Emo UPA-1, MA Silver RS series 7.1 -
so for you bi-amp experts, let's say I want to power the 3 fronts
what is the difference between:
using a 6x100w amp with 3 channels for HF and 3 channels for LF (without active crossover)
using a 6x100w amp with 3 channels for HF and 3 channels for LF with active crossovers
using a 3x200w amp with one channel powering both HF and LF (jumpers are on the binding posts) -
We still beating this dead horse ?
You talking amps or receivers ?
What kind of amps....what kind of receivers ?
What receiver pumps out 200w in all channels ?
Are you talking Bridged mode on the last amp?
Are all amps the same ?
Driving what speakers ?
You left out some detail here my man.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
i am not beating a dead horse i am just trying to understand if I have got how it works
i am talking about audio theory, what are the differences in the three hypothetical scenarios but if you prefer more details, let's say for example
driving rti12 and csi5 (or rtia9 and csia6)
generic rotel/marantz/onkyo 6x100w or 3x200w solid state class a/b or class d stuff (different amps, not bridged)
what changes in the system if i use the first (6x100w) with and without xover, and what is the difference with the second more powerful amp (3x200w) in non-biamp mode
in theory the speakers should always get 200w per channel but in practice...(answer needed)? -
Your speakers will almost never see 200w. The amp is capable of 200w with 1.5 to 3db headroom rms (depending on the amp) with probably a tad more for dynamic peaks. Your speakers see what your source requires at whatever volume you are playing back. The current converted to watts required will vary depending on your speaker sensitivity, impedence and the dynamics of the material.GrandeBoma wrote: »in theory the speakers should always get 200w per channel but in practice...(answer needed)?
Example: SDA 1Cs, Carver TFM35, playing an average 90dbs at 12' LP. The Carver is rated at 250w @ 8 ohms. The 1Cs are 6ohm nominal. I was playing Alan Parsons Eye in the Sky...a dynamic track. The needles were hovering around 30w output, but along came some dynamic kick drum/high hat hits probably 10dbs or so above the average. They happened so fast the SPL meter couldn't move fast enough, but the needles were pegging on the Carver at 500w output. Sounded great and it was unclipped. If I didn't have enough headroom in the amp to handle these peaks, I would have soft clipped. If I'd been using a 100w AVR you'd never know. It just wouldn't have sounded as dynamic. It happens all the time. SDAs are demanding, as are RTi12s (though not as much). So, in a similar situation, playing similar content, a 200w amp is going to handle it much better than your 100w AVR.
Combo rig:
Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
PB13Ultra RO
BW Silvers
Oppo BDP-83SE -
still doesn't answer my question
let's say I buy a 3x200w amp and I hook it to my fronts and center's binding posts who have the jumper on (HF + LF)
then I change amp, and put a 6x100w but this time I remove the jumper, and feed 3x 100w in the HF and 3x in the LF. From pre-out I feed each signal (FR, FL and center) in a pair of amp in with a Y cable. What changes, from electromagnetism's standpoint? I have now 2 amps pumping 100w each so the sum should be 200w
then I insert an active crossover in all 3 channels and I separate HF from LF. I feed the separated frequencies to 6x100w individual channels, each connected to the binding posts (3 HF and 3 LF)
what has changed with respect to the second scenario? -
Just bought a Pioneer Elite SC-25 and my Rti10 came to life!.."did not Bi-amp"Samsung PN50B550 Plasma
Pioneer Elite SC-25
Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD
Adcom 7500 Amp-Panamax 4300 Conditioner
Polk RTi10's Fronts
Polk Csi A6 Center-Polk M60s rear Surrounds
Klipsch Synergy Sub-10 X2
Klipsch Synergy S-10 Premium back surround -
Start a new thread, maybe?GrandeBoma wrote: »still doesn't answer my question
let's say I buy a 3x200w amp and I hook it to my fronts and center's binding posts who have the jumper on (HF + LF)
then I change amp, and put a 6x100w but this time I remove the jumper, and feed 3x 100w in the HF and 3x in the LF. From pre-out I feed each signal (FR, FL and center) in a pair of amp in with a Y cable. What changes, from electromagnetism's standpoint? I have now 2 amps pumping 100w each so the sum should be 200w
then I insert an active crossover in all 3 channels and I separate HF from LF. I feed the separated frequencies to 6x100w individual channels, each connected to the binding posts (3 HF and 3 LF)
what has changed with respect to the second scenario? -
Just bought a Pioneer Elite SC-25 and my Rti10 came to life!.."did not Bi-amp"
Good for you! That's supposed to be a very nice receiver. Wouldn't mind getting my hands on one someday. Enjoy!
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GrandeBoma wrote: »still doesn't answer my question
let's say I buy a 3x200w amp and I hook it to my fronts and center's binding posts who have the jumper on (HF + LF)
then I change amp, and put a 6x100w but this time I remove the jumper, and feed 3x 100w in the HF and 3x in the LF. From pre-out I feed each signal (FR, FL and center) in a pair of amp in with a Y cable. What changes, from electromagnetism's standpoint? I have now 2 amps pumping 100w each so the sum should be 200w
then I insert an active crossover in all 3 channels and I separate HF from LF. I feed the separated frequencies to 6x100w individual channels, each connected to the binding posts (3 HF and 3 LF)
what has changed with respect to the second scenario?
Again,just too many variables in your scenario. No matter how many times you split a signal, the amp is still only delivering x amount per channel. An active crossover means you removed the crossover in the speaker and I assume you would use an active one of better quality. Also, one amp delivering 6 channels of power is still sharing the same power supply and won't have the current of a good quality 2 channel amp. It's about the power supply,current, not watts. No 6 channel receiver has the current running in 6 channels as an amp in 2 channels. You could slice up the pie all you want from a watts stand point, but your missing the boat if you think it's about watts.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Just bought a SC-25 ,ive been reading about it,and look what i ran into about Bi-amping this AVR,i guess i need to try it out..Run 7 channels compared to 5
Ultimate AV Magazine
With five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads (blue curve), the amp reaches 0.1% distortion at 119.7 watts and 1% distortion at 153.9 watts. With seven channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads (green curve), the amp reaches 0.1% distortion at 137.8 watts and 1% distortion at 149.0 watts. It's odd that the power output at 0.1% distortion with five channels driven is less than with seven channels driven, but that is indeed the case with this AVR. The test was performed several times to verify this result.
The manufacturer's stated distortion of 0.09 % was reached at 135.3 watts with seven channels driven into 8-ohm loads. This corresponds almost exactly with the specified power output.
http://www.ultimateavmag.com/avrecei...er/index7.html
forum link..http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1170880&page=6Samsung PN50B550 Plasma
Pioneer Elite SC-25
Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD
Adcom 7500 Amp-Panamax 4300 Conditioner
Polk RTi10's Fronts
Polk Csi A6 Center-Polk M60s rear Surrounds
Klipsch Synergy Sub-10 X2
Klipsch Synergy S-10 Premium back surround -
ComfyC,
Sorry for taking so long and I'm still not done with my full post, so here's a sneak preview...
You really need to think this through... think about the path available to the unused power in the "bi-amp" case. It is no longer directly available to the "other" driver as it is in the single-wire (w/ jumper) and bi-wire cases...comfortablycurt wrote: »So what happens to the 80% of the power that never reaches the tweeter? It goes to the woofer. What happens to the 20% of the power that never reaches the woofer? It goes to the tweeter.
AVR? No. Multi-ch Amp? Yes... Am I still discussion worthy? And to me it's a discussion, not an argument.comfortablycurt wrote:Take it or leave it. I'm not gonna keep arguing this point, since you seem pretty stuck on your opinion of it. Just one question...have you ever actually tried bi-amping with an AVR? Just a question.
As for being stuck... nah... I've been testing my own opinion right along with everyone else. So far I've only become more certain that I'm right, but that could still change...
I understand your frustration, but I hope you hang just a bit longer... think just a bit more. Either way I've at least one more long post to make here...More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
All (5) channels driven 8-ohm loads, 0.1% distortion @ 119.7W; 1% distortion at 153.9W. All (7) channels driven 0.1% distortion @137.8W 1% distortion @ 149.0 watts. ...odd that the power output... ...w/5 channels driven is less than w/7channels driven.
Links seem broken. Impressive 8 ohm specs. BTW did you see any 4 ohm specs? The gross exception of 8 ohm speaker's impedence plots stay @ 8 ohms.
my $.02
tonySamsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
*all connected w/Premiere ICs
5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
Samsung PN50B550 Plasma
Pioneer Elite SC-25
Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD
Adcom 7500 Amp-Panamax 4300 Conditioner
Polk RTi10's Fronts
Polk Csi A6 Center-Polk M60s rear Surrounds
Klipsch Synergy Sub-10 X2
Klipsch Synergy S-10 Premium back surround -
Taken from this..middle of the page..http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1170880&page=6
Hmmm... Took a few clicks to find it. Might be good for 25% more into 4ohms measured all the same as 8 ohm readings. I'd be reluctant to crank it w/most channels connected to 4 ohm speakers.
I wonder what we'd see RMS/peak "20hz-20Khz" @ 8 & 4 ohms.
another $.02 worth
tonySamsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
*all connected w/Premiere ICs
5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
If you notice, ice amps like those in the Pioneer SC series or their newer elite series don't tend to drop off a cliff running between 5 and 7 channels like regular AVR'S.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
If you notice, ice amps like those in the Pioneer SC series or their newer elite series don't tend to drop off a cliff running between 5 and 7 channels like regular AVR'S.
Yep,thats why i bought it..:)Samsung PN50B550 Plasma
Pioneer Elite SC-25
Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD
Adcom 7500 Amp-Panamax 4300 Conditioner
Polk RTi10's Fronts
Polk Csi A6 Center-Polk M60s rear Surrounds
Klipsch Synergy Sub-10 X2
Klipsch Synergy S-10 Premium back surround -
thanks for the explanation in private gp4jesus it is like I expected
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...ice amps like those in the Pioneer SC series or their newer elite series don't tend to drop off a cliff
ice amps??? Is this an abreviation? For whatSamsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer
Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)
LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
*all connected w/Premiere ICs
5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s -
ice amps??? Is this an abreviation? For what
ICE power is an acronymous for something I can't remember. it's a particular type of class D that has very high efficiency rates, something like 80%. For example, the european pioneer receiver lx-52 does not feature ice amplification, while the next model up, the lx-72 does. The former will use more electricity to output less watts than the latter -
GrandeBoma wrote: »ICE power is an acronymous for something I can't remember.
acronymous?
See here: http://www.icepower.bang-olufsen.com/ -
Coming to back to bass problem in Rti10s, it looks like my room is too big to get that punchy bass..lol
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Photo, I've been playing with the equalizer a lot on the 1325 and seem to be able to get all the bass I want, and more, at least to my ears. I ran Auto MCACC but didn't like the results so had to manually adjust. This is all for two channel with no sub. Also connected a 2 x 150 wpc amp with no noticeable difference.2 CH - SB Touch, CA 840C, CA 840Av2, PSB Imagine T
HT - Pioneer 1325, Emo UPA-1, MA Silver RS series 7.1 -
Photo, I've been playing with the equalizer a lot on the 1325 and seem to be able to get all the bass I want, and more, at least to my ears. I ran Auto MCACC but didn't like the results so had to manually adjust. This is all for two channel with no sub. Also connected a 2 x 150 wpc amp with no noticeable difference.
what adjustments u made in EQ -
Set 63hz at +5 then sloped it down in more or less equal steps to -3 at 2Khz then back up to +2.5 at 16Khz. I'm still fine tuning it but found this gave decent lows and suppressed some of the tinny sound. I've been using Peter Gabriel's Us cd ripped lossless on a memory stick plugged into the receiver and listening in direct mode.2 CH - SB Touch, CA 840C, CA 840Av2, PSB Imagine T
HT - Pioneer 1325, Emo UPA-1, MA Silver RS series 7.1 -
Hey, I remember you... you're the guy that started this mess,,, :biggrin:photocrazy wrote: »Coming to back to bass problem in Rti10s, it looks like my room is too big to get that punchy bass..lol
bmor,
Just bare in mind that your LF boosting has probably doubled the baseline power demands you've placed upon your amp...
Enjoy...More later,
Tour...
Vox Copuli
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb
"Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner
"It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
"There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD -
Set 63hz at +5 then sloped it down in more or less equal steps to -3 at 2Khz then back up to +2.5 at 16Khz. I'm still fine tuning it but found this gave decent lows and suppressed some of the tinny sound. I've been using Peter Gabriel's Us cd ripped lossless on a memory stick plugged into the receiver and listening in direct mode.
This is more like a 'V' curve EQ for bass/treble heavy music. But do you see any muddiness in the bass ? -
Hey, I remember you... you're the guy that started this mess,,, :biggrin:
bmor,
Just bare in mind that your LF boosting has probably doubled the baseline power demands you've placed upon your amp...
Enjoy...
Lol...yea...it was me..!! I found I could hear tight bass in the adjacent room, even though my speakers are in the living room. Am I doing anything wrong in the placement ? -
No, I don't find it muddy, the bass is well defined. My primary objective was to control the tinny sound which I couldn't stand, so lowered the 1 and 2K. Then fattened the sound a bit with the 63 - 250K. I find the way the mid's are emphasized on these speakers is overbearing for music, but I believe the 1325 is flexible enough to overcome it. I'm still fine tuning it, I want to play with the 63-250k some more. I'm not thinking about typical EQ curves, just trying stuff to make this equipment combination sound good to my ears.
Not sure about your placement, mine are 8" from the back wall and 20" from the sides with almost no toe in. Seating position is 12'.2 CH - SB Touch, CA 840C, CA 840Av2, PSB Imagine T
HT - Pioneer 1325, Emo UPA-1, MA Silver RS series 7.1 -
bmor,
Maybe I missed it, but did you ever consider the poor sound could be the source ? What cables are you using ? Did you try another cable ? Just askin' is all.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's



