New Klipsch Owner

135

Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    Before:

    crossover1.jpg

    Somewhat recent:

    HPD385A%20Crossover.jpg

    Since that picture was taken, wire was replaced with Cardas, Duelund tweeter cap swapped for Clarity MR, and the Madisound inductor was swapped for a Alpha Core.

    Sorry for the hijack.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    There is a member on Audiogon and Audiocircle named Undertow, I know he's done a complete, no expense spared Klipsch crossover. I'm not sure which model he has though. I'll try to dig up pics he sent me a few years ago. You can contact him here: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr_memb.pl?0&1&memb&zzUndertow
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    I have a pair of (tractrix) Forte II's and KG-4's in my HT system mated to a nice 15" sub and Klipsch center channel. Music or movies, they sound spectacular. They are NOT harsh and as forward like detractors like to claim. A good electronic front end and sub make a world of difference.
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    Incidentally, don't you find the forte's too close to the wall for the rear passive radiator to work properly?
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Litz wrote: »
    Incidentally, don't you find the forte's too close to the wall for the rear passive radiator to work properly?

    I believe that picture was Nik's, and they may have been too close, but it all depends on the room. Mine are about 6" from the wall and they seem to be fine with that placement.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Face wrote: »
    There is a member on Audiogon and Audiocircle named Undertow, I know he's done a complete, no expense spared Klipsch crossover. I'm not sure which model he has though. I'll try to dig up pics he sent me a few years ago. You can contact him here: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr_memb.pl?0&1&memb&zzUndertow

    Thanks. I am doing a pretty soild rebuild myself that will include new everything; I am even including some silver which may be interesting with horns. I will start with the upgraded autotransformer, then maybe play with the inductor-resistor idea once I get the XO dialed in.
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    I believe that picture was Nik's, and they may have been too close, but it all depends on the room. Mine are about 6" from the wall and they seem to be fine with that placement.

    I'd say 6" is a fair distance. Less than 4" is just too close IMO.
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,082
    edited May 2010
    Lord willing, my next 2-channel speakers will be these Forte I or II.

    I had 2 sets of KG4's and currently a set of KG2's in storage.

    The midrange of the Forte looks very enticing to me.

    Keep us posted about your quest zingo.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    I think one of the best parts of Klipsch speakers is their mid (honker) horn, and I have no intention of buying another pair of Klipsch speakers that don't have one. The Fortes are definitely wetting my beak towards vintage Klipsch speakers and horns, and my next pair may be full horn speakers in the La Scala. But that may be a while as I have a lot of upgrading to do with the Fortes currently. :D
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited May 2010
    I need to hop on that bandwagon. Let me know how the xo turns out, i will be following suit.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited May 2010
    Litz wrote: »
    I'd say 6" is a fair distance. Less than 4" is just too close IMO.

    Mine are 8-10" away and the bass response is very powerful. Not too boomy.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    nguyendot wrote: »
    Mine are 8-10" away and the bass response is very powerful. Not too boomy.

    Yeah, same here!

    To piggyback on Klipsch designs: The thing that appeals to me about the forte is that they represent the most practical and balanced of klipsch heritage line. That is: separate drivers, and a PR so that the response is even and clean form the 30's to 20khz. The same cannot be said of the heresy, as it cuts off at 60hz, as does the la scala...which need subs badly IMO. The cornwall II is impressive, but it's too big for small to medium rooms. The KG2 is pretty good for small rooms, and I dig the KG-4, despite lack of separate mid/tweet driver, it's quite a nice little speaker.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    Thanks. I am doing a pretty soild rebuild myself that will include new everything; I am even including some silver which may be interesting with horns. I will start with the upgraded autotransformer, then maybe play with the inductor-resistor idea once I get the XO dialed in.
    Here's a LONG thread on crossover tweaks: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?cspkr&1211428524&&&/Capacitor-log-Mundorf-Silver-in-Oil- The OP upgraded his Klipsch with a few different caps along the way, with remarks/impressions by others throughout. If I were you, I'd check out Claritycap ESA caps.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • BottomFeeder
    BottomFeeder Posts: 1,684
    edited May 2010
    Sheesh. Had the Forte 1's, but sold them when I added an NAD C320Bee integrated. Incredible clarity, but the imaging was LOUSY. Of course, NOW I know that Fortes sing w/tubes.

    Ah well. Live and learn.
    "Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." Bob Seger
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    dorokusai wrote: »
    I'm a fan of Klipsch on tubes, otherwise they're awful.

    Actually, no they aren't. On any competant SS they sound great. It's only the poor electronics that exaggerate the negative qualities.
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    BTW: I just ordered xover upgrade/repair kits for both my forte II's and KG4's from Bob Crites.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Litz wrote: »
    Actually, no they aren't. On any competant SS they sound great. It's only the poor electronics that exaggerate the negative qualities.

    I agree. Tubes sound really good with horns, and I'll be getting some 300Bs to try with the Fortes, but it all has to do with clarity. Horns tend to reproduce whatever is upstream with clarity, good or bad. I have a few favorite recordings that are a little less favorite through horns.
    Litz wrote: »
    BTW: I just ordered xover upgrade/repair kits for both my forte II's and KG4's from Bob Crites.

    Nice. I looked at those but thought I'd be fun to build my own. Plus, I didn't want any electrolytics or sandblock resistors, and wanted to try something difference than Sonicaps.
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    I agree. Tubes sound really good with horns, and I'll be getting some 300Bs to try with the Fortes, but it all has to do with clarity. Horns tend to reproduce whatever is upstream with clarity, good or bad. I have a few favorite recordings that are a little less favorite through horns.



    Nice. I looked at those but thought I'd be fun to build my own. Plus, I didn't want any electrolytics or sandblock resistors, and wanted to try something difference than Sonicaps.

    Part 1: I'd love to try mine with a push/pull 300b! I haven't heard klipsch really shout since...I heard them with a kenwood receiver...and I think it was an early bryston amp...before the "B" mod.

    Part II: I thought for simplicity, I'd go with this kit. Bob has a great rep, and swears his kits are far superior than the OEM stuff...step in the right direction! I can always go nuts down the road. For now---it will be nice to refresh and upgrade the 24 year old parts.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Litz wrote: »
    Part 1: I'd love to try mine with a push/pull 300b! I haven't heard klipsch really shout since...I heard them with a kenwood receiver...and I think it was an early bryston amp...before the "B" mod.

    Part II: I thought for simplicity, I'd go with this kit. Bob has a great rep, and swears his kits are far superior than the OEM stuff...step in the right direction! I can always go nuts down the road. For now---it will be nice to refresh and upgrade the 24 year old parts.

    I like my PP EL34s on my Fortes, so SET 300Bs should be interesting with their 9wpc.

    I completely agree on simplicity and Bob does have a great reputation which is why I bought my autotransformers through him. Any upgrade on these XOs should be solid step forward in SQ.

    I'm going to build my XOs on a separate board, but I'm still trying to figure out where to mount them. I'm also going to upgrade all the interior wires to 12g, and dynamat some stuff. Should be fun. :)
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    I like my PP EL34s on my Fortes, so SET 300Bs should be interesting with their 9wpc.

    I completely agree on simplicity and Bob does have a great reputation which is why I bought my autotransformers through him. Any upgrade on these XOs should be solid step forward in SQ.

    I'm going to build my XOs on a separate board, but I'm still trying to figure out where to mount them. I'm also going to upgrade all the interior wires to 12g, and dynamat some stuff. Should be fun. :)

    Bob just e-mailed me. He said that the internal Forte driver connections are very fragile, and he recommended awg 16 stranded copper. He said anything heavier would add extra weight, and might be a problem. He said not to solder that connection either.

    IIRC, the tubes in my old quicksilver amp were el-34 in ultralinear config. I heard some Golden dragon 300b's out east at a place called "Deja vu" audio.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Litz wrote: »
    Bob just e-mailed me. He said that the internal Forte driver connections are very fragile, and he recommended awg 16 stranded copper. He said anything heavier would add extra weight, and might be a problem. He said not to solder that connection either.

    Sounds like a challenge...

    lets-rock.gif
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    Sounds like a challenge...

    lets-rock.gif

    Here is what he said exactly when asked about awg 12:
    "No, I don't recommend that. If you rewire, use no larger than 16AWG stranded copper. The connections to the tweeter and the midrange diaphragms are pretty delicate. They don't need the extra weight of the heavy wire. Also, I do not recommend soldering to the driver connections. They are easily damaged by the heat unless you are an expert at soldering."
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    That's good to know about soldering to the drivers. I'll evaluate my options when I open them up.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Face wrote: »
    Before:

    crossover1.jpg

    Somewhat recent:

    HPD385A%20Crossover.jpg

    Since that picture was taken, wire was replaced with Cardas, Duelund tweeter cap swapped for Clarity MR, and the Madisound inductor was swapped for a Alpha Core.

    Sorry for the hijack.

    That looked like a nice set of components to begin with. Why did you ditch the Sonicaps and Mills for Clarity caps and Duelund resistors?
  • Litz
    Litz Posts: 111
    edited May 2010
    zingo wrote: »
    That's good to know about soldering to the drivers. I'll evaluate my options when I open them up.

    I just got some audioquest OFC for the polk and Klipsch refurbs.

    The audioquest is +/- equivalent to the weight/size of awg 16.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    Better synergy, transparency, and imaging.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Face wrote: »
    Better synergy, transparency, and imaging.

    All good reasons... :cool:

    What was the improvement like from stock to Sonicap mix, then Sonicap mix to Clarity mix?
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    Both were improvements.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,082
    edited May 2010
    Zingo, what brand of capacitors and resistors are you going to use?
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Let me crack open the shipping box tonight and I'll take some pictures.