improving SRS Bass

turbopantera

I have both a pair of 1Cs and SRSs (original) and 1Cs seem to go lower than the SRS. The 1Cs will reproduct a 20hz note to the point that fixtures in the room start to shake, but the SRSs which are suppose to go lower wont. I have noticed this at first with some music that I have when playiing on each speaker. I notice deeper bass in the 1Cs.

Investigating the speakers reveals a steel slug in the back of the 1C passive radiator but the SRS radiator just has an empty hole.

Has anyone noticed a lack of low frequency bass in the SRS has anyone made any improvements.

McLoki

Are you sure the SRS cabinets are still sealed well? If you push on the passive at the bottom (gently), do all the drivers push out and then slowly return to normal?

Michael

BTW - Welcome to club polk...

F1nut

SDA 1C (new caps, SL2500s, bass mod)

Why are you using SL2500's?

hearingimpared

I had to set my 1.2 TLs 8" from the back wall before I realized the great bass response.

Tony M

My SDA-SRS2's bass will make you nausious if you increase the bass control..:D

Good luck with finding out why yours doesn't.

turbopantera

I have checked the cabinets for any air leaks, and there are none to be found of any significance. The speakers are really in pretty good shapes except for the dog stains on the grills from the previous owner. If that were my dog, I would of shot it.

I have the SRS about 1 inches from the wall. The 1C are about the same. But previously, in a different room, the 1C were almost against the wall and still had good bass.

I really wonder about that metal slug in the passive radiator. A friend had a set of 1B and they did not have the slug and had less bass than the 1C. Perhaps the resonant frequency of the SRS radiator is too high.

As for the SL2500 in the 1C. When I bought the 1C years ago, they had two bad tweters. I called polk to get new ones and told them I really wanted a bright sound. They suggested the 2500 instead of the 2000.

F1nut

Your speakers are too close to the back wall. At one inch, the wires must be pressed hard on the wall. Try 5 to 6 inches.

The slug was used on some PR models where as the others have a thicker outer puck weight. Regardless, the SDA SRS's are anything but lacking bass response. What are you driving them with? Have you tightened the driver and PR screws? Is the floor carpeted, bare wood or tile? Are you using spikes or the flat screw in feet?

McLoki asked you to perform a test. How many seconds before the mid-drivers start to move back in?

There's no SDA tweeter brighter than the SL2000's, IMO. Anyway, the SL2500 is not a match for the crossover circuit and should be replaced with the proper tweeter.

THEJERMON

One suggestion Turbo.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89778

turbopantera

Sorry folks, I had a typo on the distance from the wall. The the 1 inch was suppose to be 10 inches. Need to proof read.

The floor is carpet and using the flat feet. Perhps the spikes would help, but the 1Cs dont have any spikes and they sit on carpet also. Now dont get me wrong, the SRSs have really good tight bass right down to about 28 hz. But the 1Cs go even lower to 20hz and below. I notice this because I have several pieces of music that have passages where you FEEL the bass more than you hear it. It is played on the 1Cs and not on the SRSs. Perhaps I just have an abnormal set if 1Cs. I have made a slight wiring change to the drivers in the 1C and that might of increased their bass beyond what was original.

After reading the reference thread about sealing speakers, I checked the SRS and 1Cs. Both are about 3-5 sec. Its not that hard to do, so I might try and seal the cabinets just in case.

As for the 2500s, I have changed the eq and I like them, so they will stay. I play my music Tone Flat and if they have enough highs at flat, then they are golden.

leroyjr1

turbopantera wrote: »

Sorry folks, I had a typo on the distance from the wall. The the 1 inch was suppose to be 10 inches. Need to proof read.

The floor is carpet and using the flat feet. Perhps the spikes would help, but the 1Cs dont have any spikes and they sit on carpet also. Now dont get me wrong, the SRSs have really good tight bass right down to about 28 hz. But the 1Cs go even lower to 20hz and below. I notice this because I have several pieces of music that have passages where you FEEL the bass more than you hear it. It is played on the 1Cs and not on the SRSs. Perhaps I just have an abnormal set if 1Cs. I have made a slight wiring change to the drivers in the 1C and that might of increased their bass beyond what was original.

After reading the reference thread about sealing speakers, I checked the SRS and 1Cs. Both are about 3-5 sec. Its not that hard to do, so I might try and seal the cabinets just in case.

As for the 2500s, I have changed the eq and I like them, so they will stay. I play my music Tone Flat and if they have enough highs at flat, then they are golden.

Could the SRS's be under powered.

F1nut

The 1C's have a -3dB of 35Hz, therefore I don't believe you are getting much of anything at 20Hz. I would estimate the -3dB of the SRS's to be about 27Hz.

BTW, the 1C's are 6 ohm, while the SRS's are 4 ohm. Is the amp driving the SRS's good at 4 ohms and lower?

I have made a slight wiring change to the drivers in the 1C and that might of increased their bass beyond what was original.

What did you do?

Both are about 3-5 sec.

That's a normal time.

Tour2ma

Geez, a guy takes a couple years off and he's 10,000 posts behind the other half of the original, CP night shift.

F1nut wrote: »

BTW, the 1C's are 6 ohm, while the SRS's are 4 ohm. Is the amp driving the SRS's good at 4 ohms and lower?

Good question...

And while I would not relish swapping around SRS's, I wonder if the room is "favoring" the 1C's. Would seem that their exaggerated performance indicates room gain.

turbo, are you talking about your main listening position only, or about any point in the room?

Schurkey

leroyjr1 wrote: »

Could the SRS's be under powered.

No. Not unless there's an impedance difference so that the SRS takes more current; and the amp is so marginal that a drop of a few ohms makes a difference in the amp's output with regard to clipping. Not at all likely. I'd expect treble problems as well when the amp starts clipping.

EVEN WITH the impedence difference AND the amp inadequacy, the frequency response should be the same or BETTER out of the SRS at lower volume levels. (no clipping until the volume goes up)


If the volume is the same or similar on both speakers, but the frequency response is different--it's likely a speaker problem not an amp problem. [edit: or a ROOM problem. I assumed (yeah, I know) that the speakers were listened to with them in the same position; and that may not be correct.)]

I'd think that the SRS should out-bass the 1C. Clearly, something is wrong.

heiney9

Schurkey wrote: »

No. Not unless there's an impedance difference so that the SRS takes more current; and the amp is so marginal that a drop of a few ohms makes a difference in the amp's output with regard to clipping. Not at all likely. I'd expect treble problems as well when the amp starts clipping.

EVEN WITH the impedence difference AND the amp inadequacy, the frequency response should be the same or BETTER out of the SRS at lower volume levels. (no clipping until the volume goes up)


If the volume is the same or similar on both speakers, but the frequency response is different--it's likely a speaker problem not an amp problem. [edit: or a ROOM problem. I assumed (yeah, I know) that the speakers were listened to with them in the same position; and that may not be correct.)]

I'd think that the SRS should out-bass the 1C. Clearly, something is wrong.

Yeah, your above statements are way out of whack compared to anything I've experienced. They absolutely could be, and are most likely, under powered. I've used all kind of different amps with my 1C's and they all sounded different and had different bass characteristics even at low levels.

H9

inspiredsports

There is a huge disconnect here. I'm driving 4-ohm SDA SRS 2's (15" Passive) and 6-ohm SDA-2B's (12" Passive) side by side and both 8" from the back wall.

Both have great bass response, but the 15" definitely pushes out more bass. I can't conceive of a situation where the 1C could outperform the SRS unless there is an electronic or physical problem within the SRS speaker enclosure.

hearingimpared

Schurkey wrote: »

No. Not unless there's an impedance difference so that the SRS takes more current; and the amp is so marginal that a drop of a few ohms makes a difference in the amp's output with regard to clipping. Not at all likely. I'd expect treble problems as well when the amp starts clipping.

EVEN WITH the impedence difference AND the amp inadequacy, the frequency response should be the same or BETTER out of the SRS at lower volume levels. (no clipping until the volume goes up)


If the volume is the same or similar on both speakers, but the frequency response is different--it's likely a speaker problem not an amp problem. [edit: or a ROOM problem. I assumed (yeah, I know) that the speakers were listened to with them in the same position; and that may not be correct.)]

I'd think that the SRS should out-bass the 1C. Clearly, something is wrong.

SRSs require lots of clean high current power. I speak from experience.

Schurkey

hearingimpared wrote: »

SRSs require lots of clean high current power. I speak from experience.

"Lots" of power is required for high volume. At low volume, there's NO need for "lots" of power.

"High current" is relative. Some Apogee Scintilla speakers are sub-one-ohm; THAT takes a lot of current. Polk speakers NEVER go that low in impedance; impedance does not vary (significantly) with volume level, and any amp that's got a reasonable 4-ohm nominal rating is fine (in terms of current capacity); as long as we can agree that more watts produces louder volume, but having an excess of watts does not guarantee improved SOUND QUALITY.

My 1Bs cruise along with an average input of a couple of watts at my usual volume level. Back when I had wattmeters, the peaks would jump to ~10 watts indicated; which probably means the actual input might have been double or even a bit more than what was indicated due to the meter not being able to register instantaneous peaks. How tough can it be to provide short-term spikes of ~30 watts at ~3 or 4 ohms??? Even the friggin' Communists can do THAT (at least with SOME of their products; it's entirely true that they're producing lots of bottom-feeder JUNK; but the worst of the Communist Crap won't be rated for a 4-ohm load, either.)

NOW, turn the volume knob up, and everything changes. It takes a SERIOUS amp to play LOUD (depending on your definition of "loud" and also depending on your room's acoustic properties) And this gets MORE true as you choose speakers that have lower impedance.

What we DO agree on is that the amp must provide "clean" power. It's just that "clean" power is EASIER to get at low volume levels because a cheaper, lighter, smaller power supply can keep up with the speaker's current requirement when the voltage is low. So, again, turn the volume knob up and the difficulty of supplying sufficient current increases as the voltage/volume goes up.

In regard to the original post; if the big speakers had "equivalent" bass to the "little" speakers at lower volume; but the bass production of the big speakers went away as the volume went up--yeah, maybe the amp is running out of current/power. I'd still expect the treble to be affected, in fact I'd expect them to sound terrible once the amp was driven hard enough to became shy of current. If the big speakers NEVER have equivalent bass to the "little" speakers EVEN at low volume--IT'S NOT THE AMP unless the amp is DRAMATICALLY under-sized (I'm thinking the SET stuff of three or five watts; and similar current capacity.) Might be some defect in the speakers, might be the position of the speakers, might be some weird interaction with room nodes; but it ain't the amp.

There is also the possibility that the smaller speakers have been modified--or damaged--in such a way to EXAGGERATE the bass produced; it's not that the big speakers are bass-shy, it's that the little ones have excess bass.

P. S.: My choice of amp? I replaced a damaged Japanese receiver (120w @ 8 ohm; 160 @ 4 ohm) with an Aragon 4004, and later an Aragon 8008. I power the amp with 10-gauge cable from a dedicated circuit breaker. Supplying current to the speakers is NOT an issue in my household.

heiney9

Schurkey wrote: »

"Lots" of power is required for high volume. At low volume, there's NO need for "lots" of power.

"High current" is relative. Some Apogee Scintilla speakers are sub-one-ohm; THAT takes a lot of current. Polk speakers NEVER go that low in impedance; impedance does not vary (significantly) with volume level, and any amp that's got a reasonable 4-ohm nominal rating is fine; as long as we can agree that more watts produces louder volume, but having an excess of watts does not guarantee improved SOUND QUALITY.

My 1Bs cruise along with an average input of a couple of watts at my usual volume level. Back when I had wattmeters, the peaks would jump to ~10 watts indicated; which probably means the actual input might have been double or even a bit more than what was indicated due to the meter not being able to register instantaneous peaks. How tough can it be to provide short-term spikes of ~30 watts at ~3 or 4 ohms??? Even the friggin' Communists can do THAT (at least with SOME of their products.)

NOW, turn the volume knob up, and everything changes. It takes a SERIOUS amp to play LOUD (depending on your definition of "loud" and also depending on your room's acoustic properties) And this gets MORE true as you choose speakers that have lower impedance.

What we DO agree on is that the amp must provide "clean" power. It's just that "clean" power is EASIER to get at low volume levels because a cheaper, lighter, smaller power supply can keep up with the speaker's current requirement when the voltage is low. So, again, turn the volume knob up and the difficulty of supplying sufficient current increases as the voltage/volume goes up.

In regard to the original post; if the big speakers had "equivalent" bass to the "little" speakers at lower volume; but the bass production of the big speakers went away as the volume went up--yeah, maybe the amp is running out of current/power. I'd still expect the treble to be affected, in fact I'd expect them to sound terrible once the amp was driven hard enough to became shy of current. If the big speakers NEVER have equivalent bass to the "little" speakers EVEN at low volume--IT'S NOT THE AMP unless the amp is DRAMATICALLY under-sized (I'm thinking the SET stuff of three or five watts; and similar current capacity.) Might be some defect in the speakers, might be the position of the speakers, might be some weird interaction with room nodes; but it ain't the amp.

There is also the possibility that the smaller speakers have been modified--or damaged--in such a way to EXAGGERATE the bass produced; it's not that the big speakers are bass-shy, it's that the little ones have excess bass.

So in essence what you're saying is ALL amps sound the same at lower volume levels as long as you're not over driving them?

I sure hope you don;t think that. I've had atleast 7-10 different amps hooked up to various speakers all at regular listening levels and they all sounded different and have different bass characteristics, soundstage cues, some were laid back, some were in your face, some had a prominent bass hump, some had no bass extension, some had very smooth deep bass, all at the same moderate volume level with the same source, cables, etc.

All amps regardless of their rating sound different and the OP doesn;t make it clear if he is using the exact same rig and positioning for both pairs of speakers............if he's not then he's just chasing his tail.

H9

Schurkey

heiney9 wrote: »

So in essence what you're saying is ALL amps sound the same at lower volume levels as long as you're not over driving them?

I know that Bob Carver put a low-value resistor in series with the output; and it makes the amp sound different--that's his highly-advertised "transfer function modification". I know that Carver equipment has a very high approval rating on this board; but it's not my first choice.

I'm willing to accept that different amps can sound different--BUT--I'm also of the opinion that the difference is either pretty subtle (unlike what the original poster is complaining about), OR the amp was designed to produce "effects"; and overall, I think I'd prefer to do that with a tone control or equalizer of some sort. (because I can REMOVE the equalizer...)

Properly-designed amps, operated within their design parameters sound very similar to me. This does NOT mean that bottom-feeder Communist shiit with 10% advertised THD is going to sound like Rotel/Carver/Adcom/Macintosh/Aragon/Threshold/Krell/whatever. It DOES mean that a perfectly reasonable amp of let's say 100 w/p/c at 8 ohms will very likely do a perfectly reasonable job of powering 4 ohm speakers at 5 watts continuous, 35 watts peak. There isn't enough voltage to get the power supply or output transistors into trouble. But that same "100 watt" amp may go weak in the knees and **** the bed when asked to drive the 4-ohm speaker at higher volume/voltage levels because it becomes current-limited.

OldmanSRS

Perform this simple test to make sure all the MW drivers are working, and working in phase:

Remove the speaker wires from the amp. Momentarily connect a 1.5V battery to each SRS and observe the MW cone movement. They should all suck in or push out at the same time and by the same amount, depeding on which way you connect the battery. If they don't then they are either not connected or connected wrong.

I experienced this after shipping my SRS1.2s to Saudi. One of the large inductors on the XO broke loose, disconnecting the stereo array. The symptom was poor bass, the soundstage was off center, and the speaker would bottom out the cones on the deminsional array on moderate bass notes.

vmaxer

OldmanSRS wrote: »

Perform this simple test to make sure all the MW drivers are working, and working in phase:

Remove the speaker wires from the amp. Momentarily connect a 1.5V battery to each SRS and observe the MW cone movement. They should all suck in or push out at the same time and by the same amount, depeding on which way you connect the battery. If they don't then they are either not connected or connected wrong.

I experienced this after shipping my SRS1.2s to Saudi. One of the large inductors on the XO broke loose, disconnecting the stereo array. The symptom was poor bass, the soundstage was off center, and the speaker would bottom out the cones on the deminsional array on moderate bass notes.

This sounds interesting, I will try it when I get home..Thanks!
When I play music flat, which is 99.9% of the time, I feel the bass is lacking on my 1.2TL's.

DarqueKnight

Schurkey wrote: »

"Lots" of power is required for high volume. At low volume, there's NO need for "lots" of power.

Schurkey wrote: »

"NOW, turn the volume knob up, and everything changes. It takes a SERIOUS amp to play LOUD (depending on your definition of "loud" and also depending on your room's acoustic properties) And this gets MORE true as you choose speakers that have lower impedance.

Many people simply don't understand that the reason for high quality, high power amps is not for playing LOUD, it is for playing with more ACCURACY.

Music is full of transients that often require very brief huge increases in power to reproduce accurately. If these transients are clipped, a corresponding amount of realism is subtracted from the music. High power amps have huge RESERVES of power and are more capable of accommodating transient power demands.

As I have gone up in amplifier power, I did not increase my sound levels for listening. Although my sound levels did not increase, my sound stage size, image weight, detail, bass power and realism did increase.

Conradicles

OldmanSRS wrote: »

Remove the speaker wires from the amp. Momentarily connect a 1.5V battery to each SRS and observe the MW cone movement. They should all suck in or push out at the same time and by the same amount, depeding on which way you connect the battery. If they don't then they are either not connected or connected wrong.

Thanks OldmanSRS...I just tried this on mine. Great easy way to test.:cool:

F1nut

DarqueKnight wrote: »

Many people simply don't understand that the reason for high quality, high power amps is not for playing LOUD, it is for playing with more ACCURACY.

Music is full of transients that often require very brief huge increases in power to reproduce accurately. If these transients are clipped, a corresponding amount of realism is subtracted from the music. High power amps have huge RESERVES of power and are more capable of accommodating transient power demands.

As I have gone up in amplifier power, I did not increase my sound levels for listening. Although my sound levels did not increase, my sound stage size, image weight, detail, bass power and realism did increase.

Well said.

snow

Schurkey wrote: »

"Lots" of power is required for high volume. At low volume, there's NO need for "lots" of power.

"High current" is relative. Some Apogee Scintilla speakers are sub-one-ohm; THAT takes a lot of current. Polk speakers NEVER go that low in impedance; impedance does not vary (significantly) with volume level, and any amp that's got a reasonable 4-ohm nominal rating is fine (in terms of current capacity); as long as we can agree that more watts produces louder volume, but having an excess of watts does not guarantee improved SOUND QUALITY.

My 1Bs cruise along with an average input of a couple of watts at my usual volume level. Back when I had wattmeters, the peaks would jump to ~10 watts indicated; which probably means the actual input might have been double or even a bit more than what was indicated due to the meter not being able to register instantaneous peaks. How tough can it be to provide short-term spikes of ~30 watts at ~3 or 4 ohms??? Even the friggin' Communists can do THAT (at least with SOME of their products; it's entirely true that they're producing lots of bottom-feeder JUNK; but the worst of the Communist Crap won't be rated for a 4-ohm load, either.)

NOW, turn the volume knob up, and everything changes. It takes a SERIOUS amp to play LOUD (depending on your definition of "loud" and also depending on your room's acoustic properties) And this gets MORE true as you choose speakers that have lower impedance.

What we DO agree on is that the amp must provide "clean" power. It's just that "clean" power is EASIER to get at low volume levels because a cheaper, lighter, smaller power supply can keep up with the speaker's current requirement when the voltage is low. So, again, turn the volume knob up and the difficulty of supplying sufficient current increases as the voltage/volume goes up.

In regard to the original post; if the big speakers had "equivalent" bass to the "little" speakers at lower volume; but the bass production of the big speakers went away as the volume went up--yeah, maybe the amp is running out of current/power. I'd still expect the treble to be affected, in fact I'd expect them to sound terrible once the amp was driven hard enough to became shy of current. If the big speakers NEVER have equivalent bass to the "little" speakers EVEN at low volume--IT'S NOT THE AMP unless the amp is DRAMATICALLY under-sized (I'm thinking the SET stuff of three or five watts; and similar current capacity.) Might be some defect in the speakers, might be the position of the speakers, might be some weird interaction with room nodes; but it ain't the amp.

There is also the possibility that the smaller speakers have been modified--or damaged--in such a way to EXAGGERATE the bass produced; it's not that the big speakers are bass-shy, it's that the little ones have excess bass.

P. S.: My choice of amp? I replaced a damaged Japanese receiver (120w @ 8 ohm; 160 @ 4 ohm) with an Aragon 4004, and later an Aragon 8008. I power the amp with 10-gauge cable from a dedicated circuit breaker. Supplying current to the speakers is NOT an issue in my household.

:eek::rolleyes:



REGARDS SNOW

DarqueKnight

Paradoxically, some people find that they need to turn their preamp's volume control DOWN when they upgrade to a higher power, higher quality amp.

Why? An amp with higher power headroom and a lower noise characteristic will sound louder and more detailed than an amp with lower power and a higher noise characteristic, even though their absolute sound level outputs are identical.

inspiredsports

Schurkey wrote: »

. . . . . .

I think most around here are in agreement that the highest quality, highest current amplification that you can afford will yield the best sound reproduction at any listening level from any decent speaker system.

Schurkey

DarqueKnight wrote: »

Many people simply don't understand that the reason for high quality, high power amps is not for playing LOUD, it is for playing with more ACCURACY.

I would have said that high QUALITY has VERY LITTLE to do with high POWER; providing that the amp has "enough" power to achieve the volume desired.

There are tons of crappy HTIB amps (pretty much all of them!) advertised as having "hundreds" of watts; and they SUCK no matter WHAT the volume level is. The output waveform is INFECTED with distortion and noise.

There are many crappy amps advertised as having plenty of watts (driving an 8-ohm resistor); and they suck for our use because they can't drive a 4-ohm (nominal) speaker at reasonable volume. They may become unstable from the higher current requirement; or they may become unstable because they can't handle the inductance/capacitance of a "real" speaker as opposed to a test resistor. So now we're back to the argument of what constitutes a "properly designed" amplifier; and if you NEVER plan to use it with a lower-impedance speaker; maybe 6- or 4- or 1-ohm compatibility isn't important. (I would disagree simply because I may at any time pick up a set of speakers with hateful low impedance. There's no predicting the future...which is why I bought "drive 'most anything with finesse" Aragon amps.) But at any rate, if the volume level is low enough, they'll provide reasonable sound quality.

There are a few amps having extremely un-impressive watts-per-channel ratings, and they sound delicious if not played too loudly.

vrooom3440 wrote: »

Music is full of transients that often require very brief huge increases in power to reproduce accurately. If these transients are clipped, a corresponding amount of realism is subtracted from the music.

I agree. A properly-designed amp will have no real problem with this; although the volume level will be dependent on power available. A small change in volume level can make a HUGE difference in the amount of power needed; and now we're back to having to assure that we're running the amp within it's design parameters.

What you're describing was once--and perhaps still is--considered "dynamic" power; which may or may not be related to the FTC-rated power of the amp. Seems to me the amps with "loose" power supplies tended to have better "dynamic" power in relation to the "FTC rated" power; and the amps with "stiff" power supplies tended to have conservative dynamic power in relation to the rated power--but I won't swear to that.

vrooom3440 wrote: »

High power amps have huge RESERVES of power and are more capable of accommodating transient power demands.

If the first watt is crap, why do you want two--three--five hundred more?
Having huge reserves of "sloppy" power isn't doing anyone any good. Sound quality suffers in this case not because the voltage/amperage isn't available; but because the output waveform is corrupted--by THD, by TIM, by noise, or whatever.

vrooom3440 wrote: »

As I have gone up in amplifier power, I did not increase my sound levels for listening. Although my sound levels did not increase, my sound stage size, image weight, detail, bass power and realism did increase.

I suggest that it was a coincidence: As you went up in power, you coincidentally went up in QUALITY/ACCURACY. You're hearing the "quality" improvement, but attributing it to the increased power.

In short: I'm trying to get you to understand that quality of output power and quantity of output power are not the same; they're not even related except that having more of either will tend to increase the price of the product; and designers that engineer to higher price-points tend to improve both quality and quantity (but not always.)

The original poster is complaining about frequency-response problems; with the speaker that intuitively should have more/deeper bass actually having less bass. The speakers are similar enough that if his amp can drive the smaller but slightly-higher-nominal impedance speaker properly, there LIKELY isn't a reason that the same amp CAN'T drive the larger but lower-nominal-impedance speaker properly; especially at low volume. The original poster's bass issue is NOT likely to be an amplifier problem. Speaker defect--maybe. Speaker placement/room interaction--maybe. Amplifier--no.


But what the hell do I know? I don't hear with your ears.

inspiredsports

Schurkey wrote: »

book published by . . .

You've spent hours writing a book here, and I'm not quite sure why.

You are preaching to the choir as 99.9% of the folks who frequent CP get it.

Now, as we are trying to help turbo' in Peoria, has he checked back in yet ??

snow

Schurkey wrote: »

But what the hell do I know?

Exactly



REGARDS SNOW

F1nut

The speakers are similar enough that if his amp can drive the smaller but slightly-higher-nominal impedance speaker properly, there LIKELY isn't a reason that the same amp CAN'T drive the larger but lower-nominal-impedance speaker properly; especially at low volume. The original poster's bass issue is NOT likely to be an amplifier problem. Speaker defect--maybe. Speaker placement/room interaction--maybe. Amplifier--no.

Perhaps you missed it....I'm sure you did.....the OP is using a different amp on the SRS's than he is on the 1C's.

Originally Posted by vrooom3440

What's up with the vrooom3440 quotes? DK happens to be a highly respected, well liked and very knowledgeable forum member who's thoughts on this matter are spot on. I cannot say the same for yours.