To "sub" or not to "sub"?
Comments
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Selling point would be a 4 ohm rating.
Just about any pos will drive an 8 ohm load.
Takes a real amp to be stable at 4 ohms.
True story.
Luckily, the OP has a real amp that is stable at 4ohms.I don't read the newsssspaperssss because dey aaaallllllllll...... have ugly print.
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Who cares.
Bob, I was stating my opinion based on the fact you had some blown drivers. They Onk is a good amp and I'm sure it drives your 1C's fine to reasonable levels. All amps have the point where they clip............if that's what's causing your issue turn it down......if not untwist your panties and get working on those 1C upgrades,
H8"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
reminded myself to read the signature from "obieone"
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concealer404 wrote: »True story.
Luckily, the OP has a real amp that is stable at 4ohms.
I understand that fact. I also get the impression he's a little misinformed as to the load the speaker he is driving presents to his amp and the point at which his amp may clip, as well as to what may cause a driver to blow.It was a simple question......why it went to amps i have no clue.
I know one thing, if you clip any amp - drivers will fail. You mentioned failed drivers.-Kevin
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I know one thing, if you clip any amp - drivers will fail. You mentioned failed drivers.
Bobt, on average where are the needles on your front panel power meters usually fluxuating around,mostly near the middle of the scale?the top?Testing
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I can't imagine ever needing a sub with my 1Bs. These things have some of the tightest, cleanest bass I've ever heard, and I've owned K-Horns, and large Altecs. The Onkyo is a great amp and should drive 1C's to ear splitting levels without breaking a sweat. One thing no one has mentioned is DC offset. When amps age, capacitors and resistors drift out of spec, transistors break down and need replacing. This is a gradual process and can go completely unnoticed, but high DC offset values can damage speakers quicker than anything. There's a good thread on this here.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634Denon PMA-900V
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Cambridge Azur 650C
Polk SDA-1BTL -
I can't imagine ever needing a sub with my 1Bs. These things have some of the tightest, cleanest bass I've ever heard, and I've owned K-Horns, and large Altecs. The Onkyo is a great amp and should drive 1C's to ear splitting levels without breaking a sweat. One thing no one has mentioned is DC offset. When amps age, capacitors and resistors drift out of spec, transistors break down and need replacing. This is a gradual process and can go completely unnoticed, but high DC offset values can damage speakers quicker than anything. There's a good thread on this here.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634
Great link there!
Keep thinking...why add/replace gear before investing a little more in what you have. Think the $ that would've gone to the SDA's should go into the caps to replace in my amp.
Btw, -1 on the sub for your SDA's. They have plenty of punch, did you do the cheap tweaks of applying mortite and damping the baskets?
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high DC offset values can damage speakers quicker than anything.Testing
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Bob,
If you missed this thread here is something that may help you get to where you want to be.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89778