RT55 vs Monitor 5A

skrol
skrol Posts: 3,393
edited October 2009 in Vintage Speakers
How does the SQ of the RT55 compare to the Monitor 5A (peerless)? I see a pair of RT55's for sale that I might consider buying and replacing my Monitor 5A's. My only issue with the Monitor 5A is the lack of bass. Whichever speaker may end up replacing my RTA11TL's.

I am concerned with the tri-laminate tweeter SQ and imaging vs the Peerless.
Stan
Stan

Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
Post edited by skrol on
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Comments

  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,205
    edited October 2009
    I haven't heard the Monitor 5A, but I have a lot of respect for the RT55. Mine really awoke when I started using a NAD receiver. Fantastic for HT and great for music IMO, especially if you can get 5.1 with four of them, like I had, and a CS400 center. In stereo mode only (for music) I prefer the JoLida 1301 hybrid integrated with the RT55. Without the NAD or JoLida, I just wasn't getting the full potential of the bass output these are capable of, and I just wasn't aware how really good they truly were IMO. I much preferred the tri-laminate tweeter with the NAD or JoLida also, BTW. Somebody recently suggested the sweet spot was a bit narrow, and I would tend to agree with this (surround modes, including NAD's EARS mode in particular, improve this significantly).

    Be aware, however, (if you aren't already) that the M5 has a subwoofer, AFIK, whereas the RT55 has two mid/woofers, so I would have expected, on specifications alone, the M5 to respond even better to the "NAD treatment" than the RT55.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/monitor5/
    http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/RT55i/

    It doesn't seem that you could go far wrong with either of these, but maybe M5 to RT55 is more of a sideways move than an upgrade?
    Alea jacta est!
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited October 2009
    +1 for the RT55s. I've listened to my dad's pair and mine and would swear by them.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • Polksaladanni
    Polksaladanni Posts: 208
    edited October 2009
    +2 on the 55's.

    I recapped mine and it makes a world of difference on the imaging.

    No more "stereo wandering" ... Love em.

    Kex, that is only a bass radiator not a sub on the 5s. The bigger box plus the radiator help but it's no comparision vs dual 6.5' drivers. Sorry to correct you bro.

    I do like the sound of the paper woofers in the old monitor series a little better though but you have to have an apples to apples comparo like a challenge of the RT55 vs the Monitor 10.

    A friend still has his maybe we can do an A/B comparo.

    Paul
  • danz1906
    danz1906 Posts: 5,144
    edited October 2009
    The RT55/55is are great speakers with a full range sound.
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D
  • bluecomet
    bluecomet Posts: 1,118
    edited October 2009
    I have both speakers you are comparing. Both are excellent speakers but the RT55's have the edge with HT use. Musically the RT's need the proper amp pushing them to reveal there real potential. The Monitor 5's with the peerless tweets are sweet for music and do not need to have a killer amp to make them sing. Any of the Monitor line with peerless tweets are excellent sounding speakers for music. They were built back in the day of two channel listening. The Monitor 5's are a little light on the bottom end while the RT 55's are nothing but a RT800 that was cut in half to be a bookself speaker. It is one huge bookself speaker. To me it is more of a hybred speaker that is not a traditional bookself speaker. The monitor 5 is a traditional smaller lighter bookself speaker. It all depends what you are looking for.
    Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
    Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.

    Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp

    Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    Thanks for all the info. I am interested in them only for 2ch music so it sounds like I am better off sticking with my 5A's.

    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    Bluecomet
    I see you have 5A's and LSi7's. How do they compare?
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    RT55 is a nice speaker, but it's apples and oranges compared to the 5A. I have 5B's and I don;t understand how you lack bass. It's either an issue of placement or gear as I have as much bass as I need.

    My point being that if the room is too large or placement is an issue or gear is an issue you may not solve your lack of bass by just buying the RT55's.

    I love the sound of 'classic' Polks and the peerless tweet is far better than the tweets in the RT55. How do you have your 5A's set-up, what gear and room size, etc.?

    H9

    P.s. recapping the 5's will made a world of difference
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    I had them on their original stands, 3' from the side walls and 2' from the back wall. The room is 18' wide by 16' deep but is completely open to the adjoining kitchen for a total listening area of 18' by 32'. The speakers are along the 18' wall and slightly angled inward.

    I am driving them with a Denon DRA-835 (1991) that is rated 100 w/ch into 8 ohms and is capable of driving 4 ohms.

    There was some cabinet redesign going from the 5A to the 5B and appears to be larger. On the 5A the MW overlaps slightly with the PR while there is a little more distance between on the 5B (see pics). Also the MW changed from the 6500 to the 6502. I am not sure if the PRs are the same. I have specs for the 5B but not for the 5A.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    Yep, that's a large space to try and get decent extended bass. You'll have the same issue with any type of bookshelf. I use my 5B's in a second bedroom converted for office use and they sound fantastic.

    When I do bring them out into the living room on occassion they completely loose the bass I am accustomed to in the smaller more intimate setting. You need a larger floor stander in your current space if you want to get more bass.............or add an nice small sub.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    That's why I have the RTA11's which seem ideal. The problem is that my wife would like me to move them out so we can put in larger book shelves. But that was another thread.

    I tried the 5A's up on the shelves that we have now to see how they sound and it is worse. They like stands.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    Bookies on stands won't be anymore visually appealing than the RTA11's. :)
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,205
    edited October 2009
    heiney9 wrote: »
    ... if the room is too large or placement is an issue or gear is an issue you may not solve your lack of bass by just buying the RT55's. ...
    Gear, especially, was the key for me, and it wasn't just a question of watts/ch. or separates, since I tried external amplification as well.
    skrol wrote: »
    ... I am driving them with a Denon DRA-835 (1991) that is rated 100 w/ch into 8 ohms and is capable of driving 4 ohms. ...
    I have a Denon 3200 from that same time period (more or less), and while it's a high quality piece of equipment in many ways, I didn't do it right for the RT55. You would probably get far superiour results IMO with a JoLida 30w/ch hybrid integrated, or even something like a 50w/ch NAD solid state integrated (I think the Monitor 5 are rated at 6 ohms, so you'd have to check if they can be used with something like the JoLida).
    Alea jacta est!
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    They would be on the shelves or hanging on the wall. No respect for SQ.:(

    My only hope is to keep delaying the project as long as I can. That kitchen floor really needs replacing and the cabinets too, then the entire interior really should be repainted. Could take years.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,205
    edited October 2009
    bluecomet wrote: »
    ... the RT 55's are nothing but a RT800 that was cut in half to be a bookself speaker. It is one huge bookself speaker. To me it is more of a hybred speaker that is not a traditional bookself speaker. ...
    I agree, but the RT55 actually look more imposing than the RT800 IMO, since they are both deeper and wider than the RT800.They're there more like 0.75 of a RT800 than half a one, and the performance is identical IMO.
    Alea jacta est!
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    Kex wrote: »
    Gear, especially, was the key for me, and it wasn't just a question of watts/ch. or separates, since I tried external amplification as well.
    I have a Denon 3200 from that same time period (more or less), and while it's a high quality piece of equipment in many ways, I didn't do it right for the RT55. You would probably get far superiour results IMO with a JoLida 30w/ch hybrid integrated, or even something like a 50w/ch NAD solid state integrated (I think the Monitor 5 are rated at 6 ohms, so you'd have to check if they can be used with something like the JoLida).

    I certainly would not be against getting an amp. Eventually I want to go with separates, maybe even tubes. Money is the thing. The bookshelf project may get a lot more expensive if I have to buy a pair of LSi7 or 9, a sub and an amp.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,205
    edited October 2009
    ... Kex, that is only a bass radiator not a sub on the 5s. The bigger box plus the radiator help but it's no comparision vs dual 6.5' drivers. Sorry to correct you bro. ...
    No, thank you for correcting me! I'm trying to help out, not show off how much I know.

    Everything you say about the caps upgrade makes we wish I could have kept my RT55 & CS400 setup. I'm missing it, but the decision has been made and there's no looking back now. I still have one pair left, for the moment (but maybe not for long), and one pair of RT800 (which will also have to go within six months or so).
    Alea jacta est!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    I certainly would not be against getting an amp. Eventually I want to go with separates, maybe even tubes. Money is the thing. The bookshelf project may get a lot more expensive if I have to buy a pair of LSi7 or 9, a sub and an amp.

    Sound wise the 9's would be stellar and give you more bass than you'd ever need compared to what you have already and are talking about changing. I had 9's in the same living room at the same time I had my 11's and they were great.

    Only caveat is the 9's need power/current to perform best. In the end I sold my 9's for modded 1C's. If I had replaced the sl2000's and upgraded the x-overs in my 11T's, I'd probably still have them.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,205
    edited October 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    I certainly would not be against getting an amp. Eventually I want to go with separates, maybe even tubes. Money is the thing. The bookshelf project may get a lot more expensive if I have to buy a pair of LSi7 or 9, a sub and an amp.
    Skrol, the JoLida units sell for $200 & up these days on AudiogoN, starting with the 1301. The more expensive ones include a remote control, and sell for about $500. You'd have to check the impedance thing with Polk and JoLida, but they sound terrific IMO, and the WAF is huge since they're so small and shiny ... and then there's all the tube rolling to play with (I haven't done that yet, but I have a few spares already whenever I have the time).

    I would try and get some feedback to see if anyone here on CP has actual experience with a JoLida hybrid driving the 6 ohm vintage speakers, and what similar alternatives there are if it can't be done.

    The issue I foresee with the sub is that it's hard to find one that really works for music, to my taste at least. I'm currently using a Rythmik sealed sub, and while it's not a boomy sub, by any means, it's still not as good as I would like, for accuracy, when listening to music.
    Alea jacta est!
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    I did the mods to the RTA11TL's and love them. I want to give the 5A's the XO treatment too.

    That is not a bad price for the JoLida.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    Where can you get a Jolida int. for about $200..........I'm all over it if there is such a thing. :D. I've been watching several of the lower end models for about 6 mos.............never seen one that low. Think around $325-350 at the bottom end and really it's closer to $400-500.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,205
    edited October 2009
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Where can you get a Jolida int. for about $200..........I'm all over it if there is such a thing. :D. I've been watching several of the lower end models for about 6 mos.............never seen one that low. Think around $325-350 at the bottom end and really it's closer to $400-500.

    H9
    H9, I got my 1301 right here on CP, and Nikolas812 got one on AudiogoN too. $200 is the very low end, and $250 is more likely, but I saw them on AudiogoN regularly between $200 and $275 ... for a while (I haven't been watching much recently). When they cost more, it usually is because the seller is including better tubes than the originals. Anything listed below $200 sells within 48 hours. YMMV, but we are talking about the 1301, right?
    Alea jacta est!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    I did the mods to the RTA11TL's and love them. I want to give the 5A's the XO treatment too.

    Do it, use Clarity Caps and you'll **** your flat hat!!! I did about a 5 hour listening session last night while on the computer, etc. And several times I had to sit back and shake my head at how great they sound. It just doesn't seem possible. Tubes and classic Polks go together very nicely.
    Kex wrote: »
    H9, I got my 1301 right here on CP, and Nikolas812 got one on AudiogoN too. $200 is the very low end, and $250 is more likely, but I saw them on AudiogoN regularly between $200 and $275 ... for a while (I haven't been watching much recently). When they cost more, it usually is because the seller is including better tubes than the originals. Anything listed below $200 sells within 48 hours. YMMV, but we are talking about the 1301, right?

    Yeah, I think so. I've seen them from about $275-300 w/tube extras. I was looking at one for the office rig.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    I used Clarity Caps in the RTA11TL and could not believe the difference. It makes me want to put them in everything. I hear a lot of talk about the Sonicaps and wonder how much of a step up it would be.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    I used Clarity Caps in the RTA11TL and could not believe the difference. It makes me want to put them in everything. I hear a lot of talk about the Sonicaps and wonder how much of a step up it would be.

    I have Sonicaps in my 1C's and I'd have to say yes, they are a step up but you need to be a critical listener and IMO, have some great gear in the mix to really appreciate what the Sonicaps bring to the table.

    With my 5B's I was on a budget and they are used in a modest second system so cost was a big concern. I prefer the Clarity cap over the Solen. The Solen was still very good, I just like the added resolution, slightly larger sound stage and smoother presentation the Clarity's give over the Solens. The Solens were a lot more forward and "shouty" the Clarity's are smooth and a little more laid back.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • bluecomet
    bluecomet Posts: 1,118
    edited October 2009
    Just to respond to your question about how the Lsi 7 and Monitor 5 compare, I would have to say the Lsi 7 is a better overall speaker. The one thing you have to remember is that the Lsi series are 4 ohm speakers, so you need good equipment that can handle the load. I feel these speakers are higher end speakers that need a higher end amp to make them come alive. Your run of the mill best buy receiver is not going to cut it. It will cost you money to upgrade but in the long run it is worth it. The monitor series speakers especially the ones with the peerless tweeters are the best bang for the buck you can get and will sound great with an average receiver. I agree with the other posts that you are not going to get the bass effect you want with the size room you have weather it is a RT55 or Monitor 5. As far as the best bookshelf speaker polk has made with bass, I would have to give the nod to the Monitor 7's with the peerless tweets. They are just sweet sounding overall speakers that I never get tired of and work well with the average receiver. Just my opinion.
    Polk HT system 1: LSIC, LSI25 mains, LSI F/X rears, Lsi F/X rear centers,
    Yamaha RX-V2500 System, Carver A753 3 channel amp.

    Polk HT system 2: , SRT system with f/x 1,000's rear speakers on 7.1 system currently using Onkyo TX-RZ820 receiver, powered by Sunfire Grand Theater amp

    Polk Speaker collection: SDA SRS 1.2tl x 2, SRT system, SDA SRS 2 P/B, SDA 2A, SDA 1C Studio, SDA CRS+, Monitor 7B & 4, SRS 3.1tl, RTA 15tl, LS90, LSI 9
  • Polksaladanni
    Polksaladanni Posts: 208
    edited October 2009
    danz1906 wrote: »
    The RT55/55is are great speakers with a full range sound.


    They rock the lammas' ****!

    I believe he asked about 55 vs 5's?

    I think the power port/arc port technology is brilliant. Plus I truly like the Tri-lam tweeter. Even over the RTi silk dome. Glad they coated it or it would be a little too much. See below...

    Keeps them from being boomy in the tower versions and I'm sure in the 55 also.

    I just acquired a set of RTi70's tonight and compared to the vintage towers, a world of difference. You lose the bottom-end but it doesn't matter with a velo 15" sub pulling that duty. But overall I like the 55's bass better. Full, to about 70-80Hz, then it starts rolling off, quick,punchy and clean.

    The RTi70 is no slouch though. I really like the fact it ports to the floor in my rooms case, a better option for me at the moment.

    Paul
  • Polksaladanni
    Polksaladanni Posts: 208
    edited October 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    I used Clarity Caps in the RTA11TL and could not believe the difference. It makes me want to put them in everything. I hear a lot of talk about the Sonicaps and wonder how much of a step up it would be.

    Clarity caps are one of the best bang for the buck in the world. IMHO. Especially the 250vdc PX's. I used em for the 9uf cap in the 55's then Bennic/Dayton combos' for the rest. Another true bargain. I know some folks might find it hard to believe but, they are not a 50 cent electrolytics either. I like both because they do not add any "flavor" just nice and clean plus power stablity.

    Paul

    BTW. The 55 box is a behemoth compared to the 800 or RTi70. The towers are .75 MDF, thank god they're old school USA material, BUUUUT, the 55's are 1" thick **** and both models are well cross-braced.

    We should be lobing them at the Taliban in Afganistan. That would make em **** their pants!
  • Polksaladanni
    Polksaladanni Posts: 208
    edited October 2009
    Kex wrote: »
    No, thank you for correcting me! I'm trying to help out, not show off how much I know.

    Everything you say about the caps upgrade makes we wish I could have kept my RT55 & CS400 setup. I'm missing it, but the decision has been made and there's no looking back now. I still have one pair left, for the moment (but maybe not for long), and one pair of RT800 (which will also have to go within six months or so).


    Hey I need your 55 woofers. Swap for blue ones? I'll pay freight:)

    I think I might do a RTi-RTA 70TL FrankenPolk thingy.

    Paul
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    Don't confuse this receiver with the low end stuff that Denon is pushing on the mass market today. I am sure a good external amp will do better but you won't find this at Best Buy. Some have reported that this receiver keep pace and even surpasses lower end amps (Adcom). It is basically Denon's integrated amp with a tuner built slapped on.

    100W into 8 ohm, 20Hz - 20KHz, 0.015% thd
    dynamic power:
    230W + 230W into 4 ohms
    330W + 330W into 2 ohms.
    Power bandwidth 5Hz - 40KHz (8 ohms 0.05% thd)
    Output impedance 0.1 ohm @ 1KHz

    Stuff lifted from Denon's separate amplifiers of the day.
    Optical Class-A Amps
    Pure current power supply
    32,800uF rectifying capacity.
    Toroidal power transformer

    All that said, if I go with LSi I'll likely get an external amp. I would like to get one anyway (tubes :))
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601