Are your 1.2TL's tweeters wired wrong by factory like mine?

Toolfan66

Right 5338
Left 5326

Mine are Pin/Blade as well but I am sure mine was 1.2's as they had the SL2000 tweeter's

vmaxer

Mine are: left - 6226 and right - 6203. They had the SL3000 tweets when I got them. I have upgraded to the RDO 198's...

dorokusai

Serial numbers mean very little but its a nice thought.

Toolfan66

dorokusai wrote: »

Serial numbers mean very little but its a nice thought.

I figured that, but it would be nice if it told us something. with all the changes that could or will be changed in the vintage polks.

Years down the road when somebody else ends up with my 1.2's that have been modded to tl's. will somebody be able to tell what they really have?

Sorry just thinking out loud;)

not that it matters or that i will really care at that time.

RichCanDo

Serial numbers dictate which speakers can use or not use the AI1 interconnect for some models. So I would assume the numbers can be related to the time period of manufacture, though maybe not to a specific date.

F1nut

There's a whole lot of over thinking going on in this thread.

BIZILL

F1nut wrote: »

There's a whole lot of over thinking going on in this thread.

funny thing is...i've been waiting for YOU to chime in and say exactly THIS.:)

Toolfan66

I agree with the over thinking, not that it's all a bad thing.

But I would still like to know that the findings on the wiring from the wire nuts to the crossovers are correct. positive wire nuts go to the positive on the crossovers and visa versa.

I would like to hear from the SDA gurus here on this matter.

treitz3

*farts*

thejck

OK just to summarize again to make sure I understood it all.
From the bottom we have t1(green, white), t2(yellow, white), t3(blue, white), t4(red, white) with color going to positive or small terminal and white going to larger terminal or negative

Into the 1.2 TL connector that goes into the crossover starting from the outside of the crossover board we have
yellow, white(t2), red, white(t3), green, white(t1), blue, white(t3)

The colors get swapped with their respective whites on the connector if doing the TL upgrade for the 1.2

thejck

we have blue and green wires coming out of the connector the blue is positive and green is negative. drivers are marked with a red dot indicating positive.

drivers are marked using dm1, dm2, dm3 and dm4 from the bottom up

blue wire coming out of the crossover connector first goes to dm2(+) then to dm1(+)

green wire coming out of the crossover first goes to dm3(-) then to dm4(-)

another blue wire starts from dm4(+) then goes to dm3(+) then it goes to dm2(-)

another green wire starts from dm2(-) to dm1(-)

this should be the same with 1.2 and 1.2TL

Toolfan66

Just make sure your wires are positive to positive negitive to negitive..

Not sure why but the 1.2's were wired out of phase. (tweeters)

thejck

we have black and white wires coming out of the connector the black is positive and white is negative. drivers are marked with a red dot indicating positive.
drivers will be marked with sd1 sd2 sd3 and sd4 starting from bottom

black wire comes out of the crossover connector and goes to sd3(+) then sd4(+)

white wire comes out of the crossover connector and goes sd2(-) and then sd1(-).

another white wires comes from sd4(-) and goes to sd3(-) and then to sd2(+)

another black wires comes from sd1(+) and goes to sd2(+)

thejck

I just wanted to get it all written down so its easier for someone following us

Anyone please feel free to correct me.

Toolfan66

You look good.. I didn't find any drivers wired wrong just the tweeters. I purchased a special tool to pop out the wires in the white block to wire the tweeters in phase.

michaeljhsda2

Refer to the photo in post #74 as a guide.

1. Remove the tweeter wire harness connector from the crossover board.

2. Using the Molex tool, and starting from left to right, switch the blue and white, then the green and white, then the red and white and lastly, the yellow and white. Result: the tweeters are now correctly wired OUT OF PHASE which is exactly how Polk intended them to be.

3. Reconnect the harness to the xover board.

4. At each tweeter, only remove the connector from the white wire (negative) and replace with the wide blade connector which will now accomodate the RDO -198 or SL 300 tweeter.

thejck

I think that sums up the wiring part of the 1.2 to 1.2tl upgrade..

TrashyTrucker

I sure enjoyed this thread! Thanks to you guys for pointing this out... I had to reverse my spades on my RDO's on my 3.1TL's. Im am now safe to say I am politically correct!

regards,
Matt