Are your 1.2TL's tweeters wired wrong by factory like mine?
Comments
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michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Ok here's the left channel speaker. The green wire from the bottom tweeter is on the positive post of the tweeter, small blade and I traced it to the negative on the xover.
The right speaker crossover tweeter wire orientation is different and I'll post those pics in a few minutes after I pull it out of the cabinet.
They are correct on this speaker. You should see that the trace on the xover board connects all the pins marked (-) together. Yet the (+) wires connect to the pins marked (-). The board was probably the one used for earlier non TL models.
From your following post with photo of the right channel, that is wired correctly also.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Deleted as I replied in post #33Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Check again. On the xover board the trace should connect 4 connector pins together. These pins are marked (-) on the board. But your colored wires (+) from the tweeters should connect to these. From your photo it looks like they are, meaning your 4 (-) white tweeter wires do not connect together at the board. (The 4 (-) wires should not connect together at board on TL models. The 4 (+) wires should connect together)
You are correct, that is what I meant by they are tied together...But why do the positive wires go to them???Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
You are correct, that is what I meant by they are tied together...But why do the positive wires go to them???
You wrote the Negative wires were tied together. The schematic calls for the Positives being tied together. I do not know why, maybe it has something to do with the circuit reversing the phasing as I mentioned in my 1st post about this.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Ok my memory is back....it was another pair of speakers, my friend Jerry's 1.2's that had the wiring harness that was different. Here's the pic of the right channel tweeter wire harness. Note the blue, green, red and yellow are on the positive. These are the same speakers that has the wrong label on the back, see post #33(label shows blade/blade but are really pin/blade...and had the wiring post nuts backwards, etc.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87728SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Ok my memory is back....it was another pair of speakers, my friend Jerry's 1.2's that had the wiring harness that was different. Here's the pic of the right channel tweeter wire harness. Note the blue, green, red and yellow are on the positive. These are the same speakers that has the wrong label on the back, see post #33(label shows blade/blade but are really pin/blade...and had the wiring post nuts backwards, etc.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87728
The photo shows what is probably the correct wiring for 1.2's as your friend has.
This would have the 4 tweeter (-) wires connected together by the trace on the crossover board.
Your post makes me wonder how many have upgraded their 1.2's crossovers to TL's without changing the pin connector wiring.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
All the negatives on mine are tied together by the board, 1.2tl's...If you look at the 1.2TL schematic, the 4 tweeter Negative wires should not be tied together. The Positives should be tied together.
The Negatives tie together on the 1.2 non TL model.Check again. On the xover board the trace should connect 4 connector pins together. These pins are marked (-) on the board. But your colored wires (+) from the tweeters should connect to these. From your photo it looks like they are, meaning your 4 (-) white tweeter wires do not connect together at the board. (The 4 (-) wires should not connect together at board on TL models. The 4 (+) wires should connect together)
You are correct, and this is how my wiring is...don't know why Polk did this, it sure confuses me!!You wrote the Negative wires were tied together. The schematic calls for the Positives being tied together. I do not know why, maybe it has something to do with the circuit reversing the phasing as I mentioned in my 1st post about this.
I guess it depends on what labels you look at....At first I thought the wide pins on the tweeters were positive, but they aren't.
So....although the trace on the board shows it ties all 4 negative wires together, the colored wires actually connect to them and they are positive...
Bottom line,,,I think my speakers are wire correctly...They sure sound good!!Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
Sunfire TGP 5
Micro Seiki DD-40 - Lyra-Dorian and Denon DL-160
PS Audio GCPH phono pre
Sunfire CG 200 X 5
Sunfire CG Sig 405 X 5
OPPO BDP-83 SE
SDA SRS 1.2TL Sonicaps and Mills
Ctr CS1000p
Sur - FX1000 x 4
SUB - SVS PB2-Plus
Workkout room:
Sony Bravia XBR- 32-Inch 1080p
Onkyo TX-DS898
GFA 555
Yamaha DVD-S1800BL/SACD
Ft - SDA 1C
Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
deletedSDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
The photo shows what is probably the correct wiring for 1.2's as your friend has.
This would have the 4 tweeter (-) wires connected together by the trace on the crossover board.
Your post makes me wonder how many have upgraded their 1.2's crossovers to TL's without changing the pin connector wiring.
Keep in mind these still have the SL 2000 tweeters in them. The green wire is going to the positive post on the SL 2000. My friend plans on replacing all the tweeters with RDO 198's and my question is which wire at the tweeter post should be changed to a wide blade to accomodate the RDO 198 or SL 3000?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Keep in mind these still have the SL 2000 tweeters in them. The green wire is going to the positive post on the SL 2000. My friend plans on replacing all the tweeters with RDO 198's and my question is which wire at the tweeter post should be changed to a wide blade to accomodate the RDO 198 or SL 3000?
Green wire is still Positive at the tweeter for any tweeter. As the RDO's have a wide spade connector for Negative, you have to change the female connector on the white wire to the wide blade type. (I think the wide blade used is .250", but not sure.)Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Rich, I just want to double check...on the 1.2 TL's xo'ver the 4 white wires are on each positive position on the xover and then each white wire goes to the negative (wide post) on each tweeter?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
If the above statement is correct ...then since Jerry's 1.2 wires are in the opposite position (see photo in post #37) of your's and mine then he should terminate the green, blue, red and yellow with a wide blade when switching to the RDO 198's?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Rich, I just want to double check...on the 1.2 TL's xo'ver the 4 white wires are on each positive position on the xover and then each white wire goes to the negative (wide post) on each tweeter?
Yes, that is correctMains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Seems like you (meaning anyone that dissects their SDA innards, not you in particular) could save youself a lot of aggravation if you:
1) Assume the schematic is the last word.
2) Ignore wire colors and labels on the board, and just follow the flow of connections relative to the schematic.
3) Add your own labels to the board and the wires so you don't have to do this exercise in frustration again. Draw your own schematic that includes all the labels, colors, etc, and seal it up inside the box so you can't lose it. -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »If the above statement is correct ...then since Jerry's 1.2 wires are in the opposite position (see photo in post #37) of your's and mine then he should terminate the green, blue, red and yellow with a wide blade when switching to the RDO 198's?
NO! The 4 colored wires are still Positive at the tweeter connection on both 1.2's and TL's. The white wires are Negative and connect to the wide blade (-) on the tweeters. On 1.2's, (-) at the tweeter goes to pin marked (-) on the crossover. But on 1.2TL's, (-) on the tweeter goes to (+) marked on the xover board. The wires on both models still use the same color code. The xover circuitry is different for both models which is why the wires connect to the xover in a different configuration for the 2 models.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
NO! The 4 colored wires are still Positive at the tweeter connection on both 1.2's and TL's. The white wires are Negative and connect to the wide blade (-) on the tweeters. On 1.2's, (-) at the tweeter goes to pin marked (-) on the crossover. But on 1.2TL's, (-) on the tweeter goes to (+) marked on the xover board. The wires on both models still use the same color code. The xover circuitry is different for both models which is why the wires connect to the xover in a different configuration for the 2 models.
Still learning here ....I thought the 1.2 crossover board was the same as a 1.2 TL crossover board as Jerry's 1.2 board looks the same as my 1.2 TL board. The board on top is my 1.2 TL xover and the bottom is Jerry's 1.2 board.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Seems like you (meaning anyone that dissects their SDA innards, not you in particular) could save youself a lot of aggravation if you:
1) Assume the schematic is the last word.
2) Ignore wire colors and labels on the board, and just follow the flow of connections relative to the schematic.
3) Add your own labels to the board and the wires so you don't have to do this exercise in frustration again. Draw your own schematic that includes all the labels, colors, etc, and seal it up inside the box so you can't lose it.
I do all the above. Since 1969 I have worked as an electrician and as a Electronics Techician on missile systems. I never trust others wiring or color codes so always make sure of correct wiring when I work on something.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Still learning here ....I thought the 1.2 crossover board was the same as a 1.2 TL crossover board as Jerry's 1.2 board looks the same as my 1.2 TL board.
The boards may look the same but the component values and circuitry are different. Because the two crossovers circuits are different, anyone upgrading 1.2's to TL's, also have to change the tweeter wiring at the pin connector which attaches to the xover board.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
The boards may look the same but the component values are different.
Gotcha....and he has the better upgrade too.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Gotcha....and he has the better upgrade too.
I do not know what model the photo is of in this post. But if photo is of a 1.2 xover upgraded to the TL, it looks like the tweeter wires will connect to the xover incorrectly. I cannot see the flats on connector but can see a white wire on end of connector with a yellow wire next to it. This is incorrect for TL model.
If photo is of a 1.2 model with 1.2 parts upgrade, wiring is probably correct at connector.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
Rich you said "On 1.2's, (-) at the tweeter goes to pin marked (-) on the crossover."
So my next step would be to change the tweeter post white wire (-) terminal to a wide blade and attach it to the wide blade portion (-) of the RDO 198. There is no need to change the green, blue, red and yellow (+) wires at the tweeters (small post) because they are as they should be. Sounds straighforward enough.
But then in the next post you state...."anyone upgrading 1.2's to TL's, also have to change the tweeter wiring at the pin connector which attaches to the xover board." What would I change at the pin connector?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
I do not know what model the photo is of in this post. But if photo is of a 1.2 xover upgraded to the TL, it looks like the tweeter wires will connect to the xover incorrectly. I cannot see the flats on connector but can see a white wire on end of connector with a yellow wire next to it. This is incorrect for TL model.
If photo is of a 1.2 model with 1.2 parts upgrade, wiring is probably correct at connector.
The wiring harness in the photo is from jerry's 1.2's. It's the one with the colored wires in the positive position. The top crossover is my 1.2 TL and the bottom one is jerry's 1.2 xover.
The photo in post 37 shows a close up of jerry 1.2 wire harness.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
deletedSDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
Just to reiterate, on Jerry's 1.2's I traced the green wire from the xover harness (+) up to the tweeter and the green wire is on the positive post of the SL 2000, not SL 3000 tweeter. The TL upgrade has not gone to the final stage which would be to replace the SL 2000 with the RDO 198's or SL 3000's...need mo moneySDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Rich you said "On 1.2's, (-) at the tweeter goes to pin marked (-) on the crossover."
So my next step would be to change the tweeter post white wire (-) terminal to a wide blade and attach it to the wide blade portion (-) of the RDO 198. There is no need to change the green, blue, red and yellow (+) wires at the tweeters (small post) because they are as they should be. Sounds straighforward enough.
But then in the next post you state...."anyone upgrading 1.2's to TL's, also have to change the tweeter wiring at the pin connector which attaches to the xover board." What would I change at the pin connector?
In answer to your 1st para.: YES. Just have to change to wider connector to fit the tweeter. You would have to do this to any model you are installing RDO's in.
2nd para.: What I posted is correct. If you upgrade your 1.2 xover to the TL model, then you have to change the tweeter wiring at the pin connector that attaches to the crossover. (They make a tool for removing these pins from connector. Can probably get one from rat shack)
If you are upgrading to TL model, you will have to follow the 1.2TL schematic to know which color wire to connect to which pin on the connector. The (+) colored wires can connect to any Negative pin as marked on the xover because they all tie together. BUT, the white wires from each tweeter (T1-T4) must connect to the correct (-) pin because each pin goes to a different part of the xover circuit. This matters to keep the correct "firing order" of T1-T4.
If you upgrade to the 1.2TL, you would no longer use the 1.2 schematic.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
In answer to your 1st para.: YES. Just have to change to wider connector to fit the tweeter. You would have to do this to any model you are installing RDO's in.
2nd para.: What I posted is correct. If you upgrade your 1.2 xover to the TL model, then you have to change the tweeter wiring at the pin connector that attaches to the crossover. (They make a tool for removing these pins from connector. Can probably get one from rat shack)
If you are upgrading to TL model, you will have to follow the 1.2TL schematic to know which color wire to connect to which pin on the connector. The (+) colored wires can connect to any Negative pin as marked on the xover because they all tie together. BUT, the white wires from each tweeter (T1-T4) must connect to the correct (-) pin because each pin goes to a different part of the xover circuit. This matters to keep the correct "firing order" of T1-T4.
If you upgrade to the 1.2TL, you would no longer use the 1.2 schematic.
The color wire sequence is the same on Jerry's as it is on mine except that the blue green red and yellow or on the positives instead of the negatives. that's why i stated earlier i would just change the colored wired to a wide blade and attach it the the RDO 198..easier that way instead of changing the wire harness stuff...i'm getting tired and I really appreciate all your help. I need to dream about this all night and hit it again tomorrow.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
ok to make jerry's 1.2 xover harness to look like my 1.2 TL xover harness, I need to move the colored wires over to the negative position of the plug and on the other end terminate the white wires with wide blades to accomodate the RDO tweeter?SDA SRS 2.3TL's
Silk Audio MS-90-BT integrated tube amp
Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »Just to reiterate, on Jerry's 1.2's I traced the green wire from the xover harness (+) up to the tweeter and the green wire is on the positive post of the SL 2000, not SL 3000 tweeter. The TL upgrade has not gone to the final stage which would be to replace the SL 2000 with the RDO 198's or SL 3000's...need mo money
I do not really understand this. I thought Jerry had 1.2's and were staying 1.2 even with new components on the xover. (Which makes no sense. If upgrading components, may as well upgrade to TL) The connections at tweeters and colors are correct and remain the same.
To upgrade from 1.2 to TL you need to use different component values on the xover and make a few circuit changes. As you say you just need to replace the tweeters to finish the TL upgrade, I assume the xover has already been upgraded to TL. If the xover is now a TL then the wires from the tweeters need to be changed at the xover connector to match the TL schematic. They need to be the same as on your TL's. Just make sure the white wire from each tweeter (#1-#4) connects to the correct (+) pin.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII -
I do not really understand this. I thought Jerry had 1.2's and were staying 1.2 even with new components on the xover. (Which makes no sense. If upgrading components, may as well upgrade to TL) The connections at tweeters and colors are correct and remain the same.
To upgrade from 1.2 to TL you need to use different component values on the xover and make a few circuit changes. As you say you just need to replace the tweeters to finish the TL upgrade, I assume the xover has already been upgraded to TL. If the xover is now a TL then the wires from the tweeters need to be changed at the xover connector to match the TL schematic. They need to be the same as on your TL's. Just make sure the white wire from each tweeter (#1-#4) connects to the correct (+) pin.
Yes xovers were upgraded to TL's.SDA SRS 2.3TL's
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Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
SDA 2B TL's -
michaeljhsda2 wrote: »ok to make jerry's 1.2 xover harness to look like my 1.2 TL xover harness, I need to move the colored wires over to the negative position of the plug and on the other end terminate the white wires with wide blades to accomodate the RDO tweeter?
Now you got it! Just as I put in last post which I was writing when you posted this. This of course is if Jerry's xover has been upgraded to TL. Just make sure you connect each white wire from each tweeter to the correct (+) pin.Mains; SDA 1.2TL Silk Domes, upgraded xover, biamped w/DBX BX1 200wpc
Pre-amp: DBX CX1
Center: CS1000p Rear Surr.; f/x1000
Parasound HCA-1205A amp; Center & rear
Sub: SVS PB12-Ultra
DVD: Denon 3910
Tuner, FM: Onkyo Integra T-9090II
Cassette: Onkyo Integra TA-2090
VCRs: JVC HD4000U digital, HRS8000U SVHS
Signal Processing: DBX; 10/20 EQ, SNR-1, 120X-DS, 3BX-DS, DAV-600G Router, Onkyo EQ-35
Conditioning: Monster AVS2000, HTS5100MKII