Are your 1.2TL's tweeters wired wrong by factory like mine?

RichCanDo

TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »

So what your saying is my upgraded 1.2's to tl's is wired wrong? if this is the case would it not just make sense to swap the terminals at the tweeters and be done?

And another question if wired wrong why do they sound so good?

If DK or Face, F1nut and or Ben could give us that second opinon.

No disrespect to you Rich as it sounds and looks like you are correct in your findings looking at the schamatics my self, But I would like to here from some of the other guys on this issue.

If you upgraded you also need to change the wiring arrangement at the tweeter connector to match the TL xover circuit. You could change the connections at the tweeters, but then you have wrong color code. It is easier to change connector wiring. With the proper tool, the pins come right out and just need to be pushed into another hole.

I would also like others with experience with these xover circuits to chime in. The way I read this schematic, if you upgrade and do not change the connector wiring, you will have tweeters out of phase.

michaeljhsda2

Ok. On Jerry's 1.2 to 1.2 TL upgrade speakers I made the wire switch using the tool seen in the photo. It was a very simple process. Insert the tool into the hole, push the plunger and out comes the wire. To install the wire, simply push into the proper hole and it locks in (the tool is not needed for this step). Starting from left to right I switched the blue and white, then the green and white, then the red and white and lastly, the yellow and white on the connector.

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

If you upgraded you also need to change the wiring arrangement at the tweeter connector to match the TL xover circuit. You could change the connections at the tweeters, but then you have wrong color code. It is easier to change connector wiring. With the proper tool, the pins come right out and just need to be pushed into another hole.

I would also like others with experience with these xover circuits to chime in. The way I read this schematic, if you upgrade and do not change the connector wiring, you will have tweeters out of phase.

Sorry I quoted you out of context Rich, just trying to get a handle on this the last 2 nights but now it's crystal clear to me. Thanks again Rich for pointing out the need for 1.2 owner's who upgraded to the 1.2TL's that they need to switch the wires in the tweeter wire harness. Jerry's wires now look the same as my 1.2 TL wire harness.

RichCanDo

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Ok. On Jerry's 1.2 to 1.2 TL upgrade speakers I made the wire switch using the tool seen in the photo. It was a very simple process. Insert the tool into the hole, push the plunger and out comes the wire. To install the wire, simply push into the proper hole and it locks in (the tool is not needed for this step). Starting from left to right I switched the blue and white, then the green and white, then the red and white and lastly, the yellow and white on the connector.

You must connect each white wire to the correct pin hole to maintain the correct tweeter "firing order." If you look at the schematic the connector shows proper connections for T1 - T4. T1 is at the top of the cabinet, then T2, T3, T4 at bottom.

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

You must connect each white wire to the correct pin hole to maintain the correct tweeter "firing order." If you look at the schematic the connector shows proper connections for T1 - T4. T1 is at the top of the cabinet, then T2, T3, T4 at bottom.

Yes. I think it's correct now. The wire sequence on Jerry's 1.2/1.2TL wire harness is in the exact same order as my 1.2 TL wire harness. The tweeters in Jerry's speakers are in the exact same position as my 1.2 TL's. I think it's all good now.

RichCanDo

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Sorry I quoted you out of context Rich, just trying to get a handle on this the last 2 nights but now it's crystal clear to me. Thanks again Rich for pointing out the need for 1.2 owner's who upgraded to the 1.2TL's that they need to switch the wires in the tweeter wire harness. Jerry's wires now look the same as my 1.2 TL wire harness.

No problem. I only came across this because it appears I had a 1.2 harness in my right speaker. Or previous owner also misread schematic and changed the wires when he installed silk dome tweets. I doubt this though and assume a factory error as the previous owner would have changed wiring on both cabinets, not just one. My left speaker is correct. I had the right one apart when I started this thread but had not checked the left cabinet.

RichCanDo

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Yes. I think it's correct now. The wire sequence on Jerry's 1.2/1.2TL wire harness is in the exact same order as my 1.2 TL wire harness. The tweeters in Jerry's speakers are in the exact same position as my 1.2 TL's. I think it's all good now.

The only way to be sure you connected the white wires to the correct pin sockets is to trace the white wire from each tweeter to the connector and compare to the schematic. Should do this with harness connected to the xover to avoid mistakes.

michaeljhsda2

"I only came across this because it appears I had a 1.2 harness in my right speaker."

This is what I was referring to earlier in the thread. I thought my situation was the same as yours, however, my 1.2 TL's were wired correct. It was Jerry's 1.2 wire harness that I seen that made me think they were wired opposite of the 1.2TL's...and they were!!! Great catch Rich. Perhaps a sticky for 1.2 owner's who have the upgraded TL crossover as this is an important finding.

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

The only way to be sure you connected the white wires to the correct pin sockets is to trace the white wire from each tweeter to the connector and compare to the schematic. Should do this with harness connected to the xover to avoid mistakes.

I confirmed this by using my own original 1.2 TL's speakers as a guide. Additionally, I have photos of the inside of Jerry's speakers which show the tweeters and their wiring configuration and everything is wired exactly the same as my original 1.2 TL's. The last step is to replace the SL 2000's with RDO-198's or SL3000's. Of course, if we replace the SL2000's with RDO-198's, they can no longer technically be called TL's. They should be renamed 1.2 SD's (silk domes).

RichCanDo

I found another error pertaining to the TL's, though I do not not if it is an error in a Polk drawing used for the speaker wiring harness, or an employee error making my harness.

The drawing(s) appears in the 2nd Edition of the Compendium. Drawing is of 1.2TL cabinets showing speaker arrangements and +/- connection to each driver. One driver in each Stereo and SDA array shows a wire has a "marker". The marker is nothing but a piece of tape near the wire terminal. It is used to denote which tweeter terminal the wire connects to because 2 different colored wires are connected to one terminal. The drawing shows the marker on the Blue (+) wire for the Stereo Array. My marker is on the (-) wire and is as it should be. So, either the drawing is wrong, or my harness had the "marker" installed on the wrong wire. I believe the drawing is wrong as the marker is where I would place it, on the (-) wire that may cause confusion due to 2 colors on one terminal. (I verified proper harness wiring and connections.)

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

I found another error pertaining the TL's, though I do not not if it is an error in a Polk drawing used for the speaker wiring harness, or an employee error making my harness.

The drawing(s) appears in the 2nd Edition of the Compendium. Drawing is of 1.2TL cabinets showing speaker arrangements and +/- connection to each driver. One driver in each Stereo and SDA array shows a wire has a "marker". The marker is nothing but a piece of tape near the wire terminal. It is used to denote which tweeter terminal the wire connects to because 2 different colored wires are connected to one terminal. The drawing shows the marker on the Blue (+) wire for the Stereo Array. My marker is on the (-) wire and is as it should be. So, either the drawing is wrong, or my harness had the "marker" installed on the wrong wire. I believe the drawing is wrong as the marker is where I would place it, on the (-) wire that may cause confusion due to 2 colors on one terminal. (I verified proper harness wiring and connections.)

Ok Rich...slooooowwwwwlllly back away from your speakers. JK
I just put my 1.2 TL's back together and now you say this? LOL I'm off to buy a case of beer and a bottle of JD and then I'll be back for your next chapter.....

RichCanDo

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Ok Rich...slooooowwwwwlllly back away from your speakers. JK
I just put my 1.2 TL's back together and now you say this? LOL I'm off to buy a case of beer and a bottle of JD and then I'll be back for your next chapter.....

Should be no problem as mine were wired correctly. But someone using that drawing to connect the harness to their drivers may connect them wrong. This would make a big difference as the 4 drivers in an array are in a series/parallel configuration which would change if you used the wrong phased wire connection. Easy to check though, just have to pull the one driver with the marker to see if connected to proper terminals as per schematic, not per the drawing. I had to use the SDA SRS schematic for speaker wiring as it is not shown with 1.2TL schematic. Another drawing to use is posted in another thread somewhere showing "SDA Wiring." Same wiring but shown differently in the 2 drawings.

I have one of my cabinets on it's back on my living room floor since last night! Ran a bead of wood glue around the interior corner seams. Now I am putting a coat of polyurethane on the ring where the drivers mount. The MDF is rough that the speaker gaskets mate to. The polyurethane coating will make it smooth for a better airtight seal against the gasket, or Mortite caulk. Plan to finish installing Dynamat to the left cabinet drivers tonight. Right cabinet is done.

RichCanDo

RichCanDo wrote: »

Yes, I see that. Do you see that the color code for T1-T4tweeter wires is incorrect on the schematic? Look at the circuit. You will see that T1-T4 (+) wires all tie together. The color code shown would tie the (-) together which is correct for the 1.2, but wrong for the TL. Look at yours with the tweeters plugged into the xover. Are the White wires on a pin that is marked (+) on the board? If "yes" then yours are wired correctly and you have TL's to begin with. If you have 1.2's with xover upgraded to TL's, the White wires connect to the (-) pins and have to be changed to match the TL schematic. (If you upgraded, ignore the 1.2 schamatic and use only the TL schematic.)

You could also compare your wiring harness to the TL schematic circuitry in case harnesses and color codes are different. Ignore the color code on the schematic. All the wires from the (+) speaker terminal should connect to a pin marked (-) on the xover board. The (-) speaker terminalwires should connect to a pin marked (+) on the xover board. Post #74 shows a photo of this and shows the correct 1.2TL tweeter wire connections to the pins.

ERROR in above post. The color code and phasing is correct on the schematic. The only thing wrong is the +/- markings on the xover board are incorrect. They should be reversed.

The schematic shows the numbering for each pin, the color wire which goes to each pin, and phasing for each. The drawing is not identical to the actual connector. Pin #1, yellow wire, is actually connected to one end of the connector (pin #1), not in middle of connector as it may seem on the drawing.

Yes, you still have to change pin wire connections if you upgrade(d) from 1.2's to TL's. My other posts still pertain except where I may mention color code on schematic is wrong.

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

ERROR in above post. The color code and phasing is correct on the schematic. The only thing wrong is the +/- markings on the xover board are incorrect. They should be reversed.

The schematic shows the numbering for each pin, the color wire which goes to each pin, and phasing for each. The drawing is not identical to the actual connector. Pin #1, yellow wire, is actually connected to one end of the connector (pin #1), not in middle of connector as it may seem on the drawing.

Yes, you still have to change pin wire connections if you upgrade(d) from 1.2's to TL's. My other posts still pertain except where I may mention color code on schematic is wrong.

"Pin #1, yellow wire, is actually connected to one end of the connector (pin #1), not in middle of connector as it may seem on the drawing."

.....and that is why I used my original 1.2 TL's as my guide in order to wire Jerry's speakers correctly.

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

Are you sure Jerry's xover is upgraded to TL. If it is, the largest capacitor would be 27uf. The one standing vertically on the board corner. If a 1.2 model xover, the largest capacitor is 40uf, probably mounted same way.

Yes.

michaeljhsda2

Just changed out the crossover plate to the 9 bolt version. Thanks John!!!

RichCanDo

That's what I need. New xover plates. Anodizing is competely gone from mine.

michaeljhsda2

RichCanDo wrote: »

That's what I need. New xover plates. Anodizing is competely gone from mine.

I was fortunate enough to get brand new remanufactured plates from Larry. I still have my old plates, one of them being in very good condition and the other looks a bit faded. If you're interested in them let me know.

RichCanDo

Thanks for the offer but Larry may get me a new set also. Waiting to hear back from him.

RichCanDo

Maybe it is a home made harness. Is the wire made by the same company as the white wire on the connector next to it? Maybe factory had run out of wire colors, or an employee was to lazy to refill the wire rack. (Not my job!)

F1nut

Post #113 contains spam and has been reported.

RichCanDo

Lasareath wrote: »

I would assume that they run out of colored wires when they made my harness because there was no mods or customizations made to these speakers when I bought them,

I have to remove a tweeter to see if the wires are all white at each tweeter, I cannot remember.


So what was the conclusion to your Original Question because I tried reading through this post and I just got more confused.

Thanks,

Lasareath

I believe the harness in my right cabinet was for a 1.2 non TL model and was installed by the factory. Previous owner may have changed the wiring at the pin connector when he installed silk dome tweets. I doubt it though as the Left cabinet has correct wiring. Previous owner would have changed both if he changed one.

I thought my original question was simple. Questions from others about their wiring got things confused.

michaeljhsda2

Las, are the right and left channel harnesses both all white or is it just in one of the channels? Are your speakers original TL's or upgraded 1.2's to 1.2 TL's? Although it would be time consuming, tracing the wires from the harness to each tweeter would give you confirmation that everything is where it should be. Maybe use colored markers to label the wires. I know for a fact the bottom tweeter positive wire is green...the rest I can't remember at the moment.

F1nut

F1nut wrote: »

Post #113 contains spam and has been reported.

Ignore that post as the spam has been removed.

michaeljhsda2

Top tweeter is red, 3rd from top is blue, 2nd from top is yellow and bottom tweeeter is green.

RichCanDo

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Top tweeter is red, 3rd from top is blue, 2nd from top is yellow and bottom tweeeter is green.

This is correct. From top down (T1-T4); Red, Blue, Yellow, Green. All connect to the (+) tweeter terminal. (Small pin on RDO's) White is (-) to all tweets.

1.2TL:
When connected to the crossover, the colored wires should connect to pins marked (-) on the xover board. BUT check the trace on the bottom of the board. The 4 pins marked (-) on the board should be connected together by a trace on the board. (If trace does not connect the (-) marks on board together, you have a different circuit board)

White (-) wires from each tweeter must connect to the proper pin. The schematic shows the proper pin # to use for each tweeter. Note the pin #'s on the drawing are in a different location on the actual connector than shown on the drawing.

Plug connector into xover board to avoid confusion. On one end of the connector, (-) is marked on the board. This is Pin #1 and a yellow wire connects to it. The Pin #'s then follow in order.; 1, 2, 3, etc. (There is a photo showing this in Post #78)
White from (-) terminal of T1 to Pin #4
White from (-) terminal of T2 to Pin #8
White from (-) terminal of T3 to Pin #2
White from (-) terminal of T4 to Pin #6

The order of connection does not matter for the colored wires as they all tie together by the trace on the board.
To match schematic:
Red from (+) terminal of T1 to Pin #3
Blue from (+) terminal of T2 to Pin #7
Yellow from (+) terminal of T3 to Pin #1
Green from (+) terminal of T4 to Pin #5

If you have upgraded your crossover from a 1.2 to 1.2TL you should rewire the Tweeter Array Connector which attaches to the xover as above. (Or use this to verify your TL connector is wired correctly.)

RichCanDo

ERROR in last post. Photo of proper connector wiring is in Post #74, not #78 as I wrote above.

michaeljhsda2

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

Top tweeter is red, 3rd from top is blue, 2nd from top is yellow and bottom tweeeter is green.

Correction: Top tweeter is red, 2nd from top is blue, 3rd from top is yellow and bottom tweeter is green.

campisfortis

"Its for a brace to mount to your wall for better bass and they don't tip over ".


If your speakers tip over, wouldn't that be a clue your music is playing too loud and you might be deaf?

RichCanDo

Lasareath wrote: »

I thought from the beginning that mine are original 1.2TL's

Maybe we should post our serial numbers, at one point they all must be 1.2TL's
Right: 6371
Left: 6381

Mine are factory 1.2TL's and have Pin/Blade interconnects, Serial #'s both 61xx. As yours are higher serial numbers, I assume yours are also TL's. I wonder what the lowest and highest serial numbers are.