Monitor 5 x-over upgrade

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Comments

  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    A moded crossover:)
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    Very nice. Those big blues have me wanting. A little hot glue to tie the caps together would go a long way.
    Enjoy.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,216
    edited October 2009
    Nice, hurry and get the other one done and get listening :D
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    Very nice. Those big blues have me wanting. A little hot glue to tie the caps together would go a long way.
    Enjoy.
    Ben

    May be later. Now, tighten with string:)
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Nice, hurry and get the other one done and get listening :D

    It costs me over 2 hours for one crossover. This is my frist modification project. The other one should be less difficult. I can compare the two for a while:)
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    After comparing the mod and un-mod x-overs for a number of songs, the impression of the mod x-over:

    1. much smooth (a little bright before)

    2. have more bass and low frequency;

    3. more detail

    4. a little more sweet and warm


    Will mod the other x-over today. How long for the burn-in?
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    Burn in takes at least 80hrs before it starts showing full potential IMHO, but it can go as high as 400hrs to be fully cooked. You most likely experience degradation in SQ and then it will sound good again. It is a roller coaster ride at times.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    Burn in takes at least 80hrs before it starts showing full potential IMHO, but it can go as high as 400hrs to be fully cooked. You most likely experience degradation in SQ and then it will sound good again. It is a roller coaster ride at times.
    Ben

    Now, the overall sound quality has improved. The SQ will degrade during the burn-in peroid:confused:
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    It won't ever sound as bad as stock. The SQ rises and falls till it is burned in. At times it may sound flat, or busy. Don't worry about it:)
    Enjoy
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    ben62670 wrote: »
    It won't ever sound as bad as stock. The SQ rises and falls till it is burned in. At times it may sound flat, or busy. Don't worry about it:)
    Enjoy
    Ben

    I am eager to hear the 2 mod x-overs. Thank you:)
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2009
    It's like Christmas. Like getting a new set of speakers after the mod.
    Have fun!
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    madmike wrote: »
    I used the 33uF SA series. But then I have the RDO-194's. This is still within 5%.

    The size of Claritycap SA 33uF is quite large. How to connected and attached to the PCB:confused: I am always thinking I should have used Claritycap SA 33uF instead of Solen 33uF.


    I notice the original legs of capacitors and resistors are bent and connected to PCB. I just connected the legs straight to the PCB. It seems the contact of original connection is better. The other completed mod x-over and used solder :
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,393
    edited October 2009
    That looks pretty nice. I had bend the cap leads under so that I could center the cap on the board a little more and reduce the overhang.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • ANWKLO
    ANWKLO Posts: 173
    edited October 2009
    skrol wrote: »
    That looks pretty nice. I had bend the cap leads under so that I could center the cap on the board a little more and reduce the overhang.

    Since the Claritycap is large and need not bend the cap leads under as shown in your picture. The overhang is due to there is no room for the Claritycap.:(

    The original leads of capacitors and resistors are bent beneath the PCB for better connection.
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