Monitor 5 x-over upgrade
Comments
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30uf is too small. You can parallel a 15uf and 18uf instead.
You can replace the internal wire if you want, but it may not make a big difference.
Are the value suitable please
Mills 6.0 Ohm 12W resistor
Solen 35uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor -
Yes."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Which value is better please?
Solen 33uF 400V PB Series Metallized Polypropylene Capacitor
Solen 33uF 630V PPE Polypropylene
http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_solen.html -
400v."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Here is the latest parts list: Any recommendations please?
Mills 2.7 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Mills 6.0 Ohm (NOT 6.2, it seems a little out of range) 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
ClarityCap 12uF SA Range Polypropylene Caps 630Vdc
Solen 33uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
My existing Monitor 5:
MW6502 woofers
SL1000 tweeters
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=40784&d=1244356738 -
Did you ever find out anything on the RC in the XO cup? I checked my 5A's and they don't have it.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Did you ever find out anything on the RC in the XO cup? I checked my 5A's and they don't have it.
It seems hard to find out. May be a mystery:rolleyes: -
Do you have a number on your crossover (ie. BE5500 or BE0500-A)? I was just talking with Polk CS about the different XO values and they were asking for the XO part number so they can possibly find a schematic.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Do you have a number on your crossover (ie. BE5500 or BE0500-A)? I was just talking with Polk CS about the different XO values and they were asking for the XO part number so they can possibly find a schematic.
I just check the photos and do not notice any number. -
I just bought two ClarityCap 12uF SA Range Polypropylene Caps 630Vdc. The size seems much bigger than I expected: 40x60mm. Bigger than the Solen 33uF 29 x 38mm. However, it is marked SA12uJ630Vdc insteadof SA12uF630Vdc. Is it OK?
I can't wait for the shippmnet of:
Mills 2.7 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Mills 6.2 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Solen 33uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor -
I just bought two ClarityCap 12uF SA Range Polypropylene Caps 630Vdc. The size seems much bigger than I expected: 40x60mm. Bigger than the Solen 33uF 29 x 38mm. However, it is marked SA12uJ630Vdc insteadof SA12uF630Vdc. Is it OK?
I can't wait for the shippmnet of:
Mills 2.7 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Mills 6.2 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Solen 33uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
Size is the main reason I originally suggested the PX series as they are 95% of the sound of SA series but since they are 250v they are 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the SA series. Because the 33uF Solens is almost as big you're going to have to think things out a little bit to get it all to fit on the pcb.
SA series are outstanding and perhaps even a bit overkill for 5B's. PX series would have been just as adequate.
You should love the sound once you get done. Good luck and keep us posted.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Size is the main reason I originally suggested the PX series as they are 95% of the sound of SA series but since they are 250v they are 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the SA series. Because the 33uF Solens is almost as big you're going to have to think things out a little bit to get it all to fit on the pcb.
SA series are outstanding and perhaps even a bit overkill for 5B's. PX series would have been just as adequate.
You should love the sound once you get done. Good luck and keep us posted.
H9
The Claritycap SA 12uF is bigger that Solen 33uF, not to mention the SA 33uF. Hoping they will congested on the pcb. Do I need heat glue to fixed them. Are there any polarity for the capacitors and resisters?
The Clarity Cap PX only have 30uF. Is it a little bit out of range -
On my RTA11TL's I couldn't fit the assembled XO through the hole after the upgrade. I had to remove the PC board from the XO cup (wires still attached), slip the PC board through sideways, mount the cup to the cabinet and then attach the PC board to the cup.
StanStan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
The Claritycap SA 12uF is bigger that Solen 33uF, not to mention the SA 33uF. Hoping they will congested on the pcb. Do I need heat glue to fixed them. Are there any polarity for the capacitors and resisters?
The Clarity Cap PX only have 30uF. Is it a little bit out of range
Oh yes, I understand. I have had good results with the 12uF PX caps and Solen 33uF caps. They fit the board nicely with no modification. I realize the PX series didn't make 33/34uF cap.
IMHO, going with the SA series on such a modest speaker with limited space is a bit of overkill as well as a minor PITA to now try and mount everything. You will be very happy with your choices once you figure out how to mount those gigantic caps.
The Solen on the low pass works out great."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
On my RTA11TL's I couldn't fit the assembled XO through the hole after the upgrade. I had to remove the PC board from the XO cup (wires still attached), slip the PC board through sideways, mount the cup to the cabinet and then attach the PC board to the cup.
Stan
I can't imagine without a photo:) -
Oh yes, I understand. I have had good results with the 12uF PX caps and Solen 33uF caps. They fit the board nicely with no modification. I realize the PX series didn't make 33/34uF cap.
IMHO, going with the SA series on such a modest speaker with limited space is a bit of overkill as well as a minor PITA to now try and mount everything. You will be very happy with your choices once you figure out how to mount those gigantic caps.
The Solen on the low pass works out great.
What is PITA -
Pain In The A**
"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I can't imagine without a photo:)
Start out like your 4th photo above, slip the board through the hole, screw the XO cup in place then screw the board to the cup.
The link below shows my XO fitted in the cabinet (#41)
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73017&highlight=RTA11TL+upgrade&page=2Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
Start out like your 4th photo above, slip the board through the hole, screw the XO cup in place then screw the board to the cup.
The link below shows my XO fitted in the cabinet (#41)
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73017&highlight=RTA11TL+upgrade&page=2
Do the capacitors need heat glue to fix the position to avoid vibration? Are there any polarity for the capacitors and resisters? -
No polarity on those caps and resistors. Hot glue not nec., but if you have it, it can't hurt. Don't glue the resistors. When I did mine there were foam pads under the caps and I just pulled the caps snug before they were soldered.
With the big **** caps you bought, you'll probably have to mount them vertically so you may not have room or need hot glue. It really depends on how the components are originally mounted on the board. I've seem 3 different x-over boards in the M5's and they all had a slightly different arrangement of parts on the pcb.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
No polarity on those caps and resistors. Hot glue not nec., but if you have it, it can't hurt. Don't glue the resistors. When I did mine there were foam pads under the caps and I just pulled the caps snug before they were soldered.
With the big **** caps you bought, you'll probably have to mount them vertically so you may not have room or need hot glue. It really depends on how the components are originally mounted on the board. I've seem 3 different x-over boards in the M5's and they all had a slightly different arrangement of parts on the pcb.
H9
I do not like to mount them vertically. Should I exchange for the ClarityCap PX if it is possible? I am not sure if there have room for them until I get the Solen 33uF capacitors. -
I do not like to mount them vertically. Should I exchange for the ClarityCap PX if it is possible? I am not sure if there have room for them until I get the Solen 33uF capacitors.
I'd wait until you have all the parts and one of the x-overs out of the cabinet and then see what can be done. Here are the photo's of my original upgrade using all Solens. Plent of real estate but you do have to be careful as Skrol mentioned not to let the parts hang too far off the pcb or you can't fit the cup back into the cabinet.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51420&highlight=upgrade
H9
P.s. These are 5B's with sl2000's not peerless so there is one less resistor to deal with"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Based on your photos and how the original parts are laid out; I think you'll be able to fit them on there w/o an issue. They'll be snug
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I'd wait until you have all the parts and one of the x-overs out of the cabinet and then see what can be done. Here are the photo's of my original upgrade using all Solens. Plent of real estate but you do have to be careful as Skrol mentioned not to let the parts hang too far off the pcb or you can't fit the cup back into the cabinet.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51420&highlight=upgrade
H9
P.s. These are 5B's with sl2000's not peerless so there is one less resistor to deal with
From your picture 7, it seems that my SA 12uF positioned at the center of PCB is rather better at the sides. Thanks. -
From your picture 7, it seems that my SA 12uF positioned at the center of PCB is rather better at the sides. Thanks.
The big cap hanging over the side is the 33uF. So yes, it can hang over.....but not too much or it's hard to get the cup back in the hole. Just try to do a mock up and make sure it can fit. Nothing worse than spending time on something only to realize you have to start over because it won't fit thru the opening
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I had used hot glue based on the guidance here on the forums and the fact that the original components were hot glued. I have seem some secured with tie-wraps.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
FTR, mine weren't hot glued from the factory, nor did I feel the need to glue them. They rest securely on foam pads. You can never go wrong with glue.............just don;t go crazy and don't glue the resistor's or if you must just a couple dabs.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
I should be more specific. My RTA XO components were glued from the factory. The Monitor 5A XO has the foam pads and not glue.
To glue or not to glue that is the question. I doubt that you would notice any sonic benefit. However, those caps do have a bit of mass and with vibration, the leads might fatigue. By that time, you are ready for new caps again anyway.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
The order parts just shipped out:
Mills 2.7 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Mills 6.2 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor 1%
Solen 33uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor
I have 2 soldering iron, one is 30W, the other is 60W, which one should be used? What kind of solder iron is suitable? Should I used solder iron with ~3% silver? Is this one OK?
SELLERY 96-705 (Tin Solder）
17 gr
60/40 Rosin Core
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