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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    edited December 2010
    unrealii wrote: »
    Did you need to disconnect the window switch when you removed the door panel to install the speakers? Check that the harness to the switch is plugged in correctly on the passenger side door.

    Its actually been awhile, but I doubled check to see that everything was plugged in correctly, and only one window (in teh back seat) will roll down. I guess I should the panels back off and try again...
    Thx,
    Paul
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1     Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • Vital
    Vital Posts: 747
    edited December 2010
    Don't know about Sonata's but on my Altima everytime u disconnect a battery (which what most people should be doing when installing speakers/amps/electrical) you need to "reset" your window switched for them to work like they should (auto up/auto down)
    In Altima's case after connecting the battery u need to hold the window switch up till it rolls up and then keep on holding it for another 5 sec. Then they operate like they did before the battery got disconnected.

    Again, not sure that's the same with Sonata but u might wanna look into it, maybe there's just another "reset" procedure u gatta do? dunno....
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1
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  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    edited December 2010
    Thanks Vital. Ill look into the manual. The weird thing however is that one does work, and three do not. Are there fuses for the windows (I know NOTHING about this stuff as you can see...this was my first audio speaker install), because otherwise I would think its has something to do with the connections.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:     Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
    Bedroom 2.1     Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
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  • mopar paul
    mopar paul Posts: 277
    edited January 2011
    I'm usually not on the car audio forum, but was bored and saw this thread. You do real nice work, a bump to the top for ya!
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  • exalted512
    exalted512 Posts: 10,735
    edited January 2011
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Thanks Vital. Ill look into the manual. The weird thing however is that one does work, and three do not. Are there fuses for the windows (I know NOTHING about this stuff as you can see...this was my first audio speaker install), because otherwise I would think its has something to do with the connections.

    If you still can't figure it out, you can take it Jacks Stereo in Waco. I'm sure they could help ya out.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
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  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited January 2011
    mopar paul wrote: »
    I'm usually not on the car audio forum, but was bored and saw this thread. You do real nice work, a bump to the top for ya!

    Thank's a ton for your somnambulism. What would we do without your upper crust knowledge. Thank you, oh you 2ch guy, who came to teach us ignoramuses how to hold our dicks.
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