Jumper Straps

Dr. Spec · February 2003

Just wanted to pass on some advice RussMan gave me about the jumper straps provided by Polk with their speakers that can be bi-wired or bi-amped.

Due to space limitations, I could not bi-wire my new f/x1000's, so I just ran straight 12 gauge. Rooster recommended making homemade jumper cables out of 12 gauge instead of using the provided jumper straps. He claimed the highs would be better with the speaker wire.

I did just that last night and after some extensive A/B with my ear near the tweeter, there is a difference I can hear. With the homeade cables, the treble has more energy and is brighter and more brassy that with the straps. The straps seem to subdue the highs in the 4-8 kHz range, giving a more distant and strident quality. The difference isn't HUGE, but it is definitely there.

Thanks for the tip, Russ.

Doc

mantis · February 2003

isn't wire beautiful.O the joy of unlocking the beauty of your system.................excellent.
You got that from Russ????Boy!!!!!

wlrandall · February 2003

Thanks for the info, I'm gonna do the same to my center channel and see how it works.

Wally

DarqueKnight · February 2003

Originally posted by Dr. Spec
With the homeade cables, the treble has more energy and is brighter and more brassy that with the straps. The straps seem to subdue the highs in the 4-8 kHz range, giving a more distant and strident quality. The difference isn't HUGE, but it is definitely there.

I agree. I've been replacing the flat straps on my Polk speakers for years, starting with my RT 55i's and most recently with my LSi15's:

My LSi15 Review

I sent an email to Polk customer service asking why they use the straps when speaker wire is noticeably better sounding. I never received an answer. Maybe its a cost issue.

etrigan · February 2003

Thanx Ed !
Not being able to Bi-Wire or Amp as of yet, I did the same thing w/my 800I's and CS400I. as soon as I got them.
Could you (or anyone who has done this) post some up close pics
of the terminals.
For me, it was a **** to get the 12ga. thru the holes in the post.
ended up using a very small amount of elec. tape at the ends - to keep it from fraying.
I'm unable to post pics at the present - but would like to see others.
I remember using tweezers to get this project done properly

Anybody else care to share?

CHEERS ! jefff

GZ · February 2003

Have you tried a small amount of solder on the exposed wire strands so they will not fray when you feed them thru?

Dr. Spec · February 2003

Originally posted by etrigan
Could you (or anyone who has done this) post some up close pics of the terminals. For me, it was a **** to get the 12ga. thru the holes in the post. I'm unable to post pics at the present - but would like to see others. I remember using tweezers to get this project done properly Anybody else care to share? CHEERS ! jefff

I just twisted the heck out of the wire and it pretty easily fit inside the post holes. I think I succeeded on try #2 without fraying.

My digi camera came in a box of cereal and I always post them in low res for the 56k'ers so apologize in advance for the pic quality, but here ya go!

Doc

MxStYlEpOlKmAn · February 2003

i've seen alot of things but that is effin weird.....lol

fireshoes · February 2003

I did it on my RTi70's too. Haven't gotten around to doing it on the LSi15's yet...

MxStYlEpOlKmAn · February 2003

Really - I'd do that if I ever get a speaker capable of it. Is this the same as using thos pricey 300 dollar bi-wire cables? or is there a difference?

goingganzo · February 2003

hey dr dont you have trubble mounting your 1000 on the wall with the binding post i have trubble fitting the wire behind mine

jcaut · February 2003

Is this the same as using thos pricey 300 dollar bi-wire cables? or is there a difference?

STOP! Don't get that started again..:eek:

I ended up using 14 ga for the jumper, after numerous frustrating attempts to stuff two strands of 12ga through there. I agree that it makes a subtle improvement, but it's there.

Jason

SPEAKER7 · February 2003

Just wondering if those are Monster banana plugs?:D

Dr. Spec · February 2003

Originally posted by goingganzo
hey dr dont you have trubble mounting your 1000 on the wall with the binding post i have trubble fitting the wire behind mine

I got to thinking I would prefer the benefits of the sonic improvement of the jumper cables, and the ease of use of the banana plugs (yes they are Monster) and the peace of mind anchoring into two studs - so I built some shelf units for them.

Whaddya think? Plenty of room behind for wires and plugs now.

Doc

mantis · February 2003

Looks nice doc,
but you can use screw in drywall anchors to hold the fx/1000's all day.And for wire room, you can cut a hole inthe drywall if bananas are desired.
I like the shelf,it looks nice.

wallstreet · February 2003

Originally posted by Dr. Spec

I got to thinking I would prefer the benefits of the sonic improvement of the jumper cables, and the ease of use of the banana plugs (yes they are Monster) and the peace of mind anchoring into two studs - so I built some shelf units for them.

Whaddya think? Plenty of room behind for wires and plugs now.

Doc

Looks great. That's just the look I'm going for with the back center.

goingganzo · February 2003

very nice. actuley i was think i might try and dubble up the rubber feet and back out the 3 in screws i used for my surounds so i can use the banas agin.

etrigan · February 2003

Thx Ed !
Very nice looking Indeed - very neat and professional looking !
Enjoy

CHEERS ! jefff

Dr. Spec · February 2003

Originally posted by goingganzo
very nice. actuley i was think i might try and dubble up the rubber feet and back out the 3 in screws i used for my surounds so i can use the banas agin.

That would work fine, especially if you used 3" screws.

I was uncomfortable using even 1/4" drywall anchors - the 1000's are so heavy (26 pounds) - I just had a sinking feeling 3 years from now one of them would end up on the floor in pieces and I'd have no one to blame but myself.

So I made the shelves and tied them directly to the studs with 3" deck screws. I could probably sit on the shelf before it pulled out from the wall, now. I sleep better at night and it made the homemade jumper cables and banana plugs possible.

I don't think reflections from the shelf edges will affect the sound much.

polkatese · February 2003

Dr. Spec,
Looks great! I have the same dilemma with my LSiFx. I like to mount it higher, but don't think it will have enough support. It's about 24lb each, and the best I can do right now, is to put it on a 34" stands. Just curious, Doc, any reason why you don't go with a smaller footprint?

Dr. Spec · February 2003

I assuming by "footprint", you mean the width of the shelf?

The studs are on a 16" center, so the shelf had to be at least 17" wide since the shelf brackets are 1" thick each and have to be centered over each stud. I went with a 20" shelf and that only gave me a 1.5" overhang on each side of the bracket.

I used a stud finder to locate the studs - I really like that tool - it sits in the basement for years between uses, but when you need it, there is no substitute.

I mounted them kinda high (6.5' to the top of the speak), because that's what Polk "highly recommends" for side placement di-pole operation.

polkatese · February 2003

Doc, yes, that was what I meant, thanks for the explanation..

SPEAKER7 · February 2003

Great job! two thumbs up!

dc.:D

gidrah · February 2003

I've also replaced my jumpers on a pair of speakers with pretty good results. At the very least I have the piece of mind that the terminals are tight. It seems like the rough surface of the stands gives the terminals a little more to bite into compared to the smooth surface of the stock jumpers.

I took it a step further with the cables I'm currently using on these speakers. I bare wire so this was pretty easy. I stripped and extra 3/8" or so off the end, I then cut the teflon the distance to the other terminals, I slid the wrap up to give me a section of bare wire and wrapped it around the post, cranked it down and the did the top as normal. Now it's all the same wire. It made a difference over the wire jumper, but I'm sure part of it is psycho-acoustics. But dang I was proud.

The wires I'm putting together now will probably have terminals. Bi-wire with spades on one set and bananas on the other so I can use them with single 5-way terminals also.

setzer808 · February 2003

This is a question more focused on the jacks I see in the picture a few posts above. I have a pair of RT25i's I use for my rears and they have the same binding posts as far as I can tell. How do you remove the black "plug" from the top of the bananna jack so you can insert a bananna plug? The jack isn't angled like on my RT55i's, so i can't just use the hole that bisects the post.

Any info? I tried prying it out, but was afraid I'd damage the post and stopped.

DarqueKnight · February 2003

I really dont know why Polk inserts those black and red banana post plugs. Maybe to keep dirt/dust out of the jacks? I use a small jeweler's flat-blade screwdriver and gently pry the plugs out.

You have to be careful because you can easily pry the plug cap off leaving the plug still in the hole. That happened to me with one of my LSi9's. I had gently knock the broken off plug down into the jack with a larger jeweler's screwdriver and a hammer.:supermad: Once the plug was at the binding post wire hole, it was easy to knock it out.:cool:

setzer808 · February 2003

Many thanks, I'm going to try to get those plugs out as soon as I get home.

izafar · February 2003

The banana post plugs are added to satisfy Europiann safety standards. If left open, one might think of inserting a power cord in a pair of banana posts.

setzer808 · February 2003

O, I guess that does make sense then. Prevents people from making them "powered" speakers....

Dr. Spec · February 2003

Originally posted by gidrah I took it a step further with the cables I'm currently using on these speakers. I bare wire so this was pretty easy. I stripped and extra 3/8" or so off the end, I then cut the teflon the distance to the other terminals, I slid the wrap up to give me a section of bare wire and wrapped it around the post, cranked it down and the did the top as normal. Now it's all the same wire. It made a difference over the wire jumper, but I'm sure part of it is psycho-acoustics. But dang I was proud.

I had to read this 3 times before I figured out what you did here - that's pretty ingenious, but I can't do it with the banana plugs.

You did give me an idea, though - I might wrap the speaker wire around (rather than insert through) the high side posts so I can fully insert the banana plugs. The tip of the plug currently hits the jumper wire inside the binding post before it fully seats. It's probably 85% seated, but 100% would make me feel better.

And yes Setzer, those black plugs pop right out with a small screw driver tip.

Ceruleance · February 2003

Exactly right about the euro standards. Apparently european plugs fit in binding post holes perfectly. Read about it in my wharfedale (english speakers) manual. Anybody have an opinion on wharfedales? I thought they were pretty nice, I had the Modus 1.6's, exact same driver configuration as my Rt55's, except the tweeter was silk dome. Blended a lot better than my infinity towers do.

Jumper Straps

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