Quality Music CD-R's?
Comments
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Ok.
So why do my burned CD-R's sound better than the original CD?Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
Placebo effect I'd imagine.Slowly emerging from the 90's
Fronts: Polk LSi15's
Center: Polk CS350ls
Pre: Sony STRDA555ES
Amp: Rotel RMB-1075
Sub: Velodyne SPL-1000
TV: 46" Sharp Aquos LCD
Dust magnet: Sony PS3 -
I agree. I haven't heard a difference either but still use MoFi.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Why do you use a higher cost alternative if you don't hear an improvement?Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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I've seen the discussion of whether the media brand affects general sound quality and it's like asking whether a Word Document looks better from a Verbatim CD or a Maxell CD.
Your analogy glosses over a huge distinction. While a Word document and a music file are both digital files, the complexities of the analog to digital to analog conversion process is very different for music. It is much, much more difficult to generate an acceptible analog to digital to analog conversion of a complex music signal, with all its harmonic structure intact, that it is for a simple text document.
If better media can take some stress off the processor, this can result in better sound.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
I use higher cost media too. But I use it for overall reliabilty rates. I don't want to get halfway through a movie burn and have it fail. I also don't want certain players rejecting a burnt cd. Quality media has an affect, but it's more about reliability than general sound quality.Slowly emerging from the 90's
Fronts: Polk LSi15's
Center: Polk CS350ls
Pre: Sony STRDA555ES
Amp: Rotel RMB-1075
Sub: Velodyne SPL-1000
TV: 46" Sharp Aquos LCD
Dust magnet: Sony PS3 -
DarqueKnight wrote: »Why do you use a higher cost alternative if you don't hear an improvement?
Because I can and I like the color. I don't need to find a deeper meaning in everything I do in this crazy hobby.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
I use higher cost media too. But I use it for overall reliabilty rates. I don't want to get halfway through a movie burn and have it fail. I also don't want certain players rejecting a burnt cd. Quality media has an affect, but it's more about reliability than general sound quality.
That makes sense.Because I can and I like the color. I don't need to find a deeper meaning in everything I do in this crazy hobby.
Neither do I. Whatever floats.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
I'm a simple man Raife.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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As am I. I've lost count of the number of things, audio and otherwise, that I've acquired just because they were pretty...like the Cardas binding posts on my SDA's.:)Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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I'm easily distracted by shiny objects....that's how F1Nut lured me to his house the first time.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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That's surprising. I had always heard that he used candy. Although, I can see how shiny objects would work better from a distance.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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By shiny object I mean stainless steel .45....and by lured I mean saying "Sure man, no problem, LOVE to."
Now back to your regularly scheduled debate on CD-R'sCTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
There's candy?Slowly emerging from the 90's
Fronts: Polk LSi15's
Center: Polk CS350ls
Pre: Sony STRDA555ES
Amp: Rotel RMB-1075
Sub: Velodyne SPL-1000
TV: 46" Sharp Aquos LCD
Dust magnet: Sony PS3 -
I use a Xonar d2x sound card in my computer and ran an optical cable to my reciever. I don't bother burning and it sounds great. Maybe you should consider configuring this way"They're always talking about my drinking, but never mention my thirst" Oscar Wilde
Pre-Amp: Anthem AVM 20
Amp: Carver TFM-35
Amp: Rotel RB-870BX
Fronts : SDA 1B w/ RDO-194s
T.V.:Plasma TC-P54G25
Bluray: Oppo BDP-93
Speaker Cables: MIT Terminater
Interconnect Cables:DH Labs Silver Sonic BL-1isonic -
I'd be REALLY suprised if I don't go with a music server this year.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Most audiophiles will agree that a copy of a cd sounds better than the original store bought. Why? Quite simply most mass produced cd's contain a lot of write errors that need to be corrected in playback. That degrades the sound. A copy of the original will fix some of the errors when copied and introduce fewer errors in the final write. Thus slightly better sound. Robert Harley has written about this in The Absolute Sound.SDA-1C (full mods)
Carver TFM-55
NAD 1130 Pre-amp
Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
The Clamp
Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
Ben's IC's
Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM -
Most audiophiles will agree that a copy of a cd sounds better than the original store bought. Why? Quite simply most mass produced cd's contain a lot of write errors that need to be corrected in playback. That degrades the sound. A copy of the original will fix some of the errors when copied and introduce fewer errors in the final write. Thus slightly better sound. Robert Harley has written about this in The Absolute Sound.
I have to disagree. Any time you made a copy of ANYTHING. be it digital or not.. it's a copy... yeah maybe bit for bit it's identical.. it's still a copy.
I can't see how a copy of a store bought CD with write errors could be corrected.. since you are making a identical copy.. therefor any errors would copy as errors on the burned CD. am I right or what?
I rest my case.PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
Is there any such thing anymore?
I was using Maxell Music Pro CD-R's but can't find em in my area anymore.
They worked great!!
I recently bought some "average" Sony Music CD-R's and when I burned one it sounded like crap!
Static and such......original file on my puter was fine....I wasn't happy!
I later burned the tracks to a regular Maxell CD-R and it sounds just fine.
Is it me or is a regular Music CD more durable than a CD-R burn?
Surface of a CD-R seems more tender to scratching to me.
As far as the durability of original cd's to recordable cd's, yes there is a difference. From the factory after they record an original it has a protective film applied, thus causing it to be thicker and more durable. Because the recordables cannot have this protective film applied before they are written on, they are less durable and thinner.
Ive always used Memorex cdr's with great success and no complaints!Most of them only hear how loud it sounds, and the rest of us hear everything else - :rolleyes: -
danger boy wrote: »I have to disagree. Any time you made a copy of ANYTHING. be it digital or not.. it's a copy... yeah maybe bit for bit it's identical.. it's still a copy.
I can't see how a copy of a store bought CD with write errors could be corrected.. since you are making a identical copy.. therefor any errors would copy as errors on the burned CD. am I right or what?
I rest my case.
Unless you have activated RAW Read / Write Mode (aka Blind Read / Write mode) with specially designed copying software, any data Read from CD is error corrected before it gets written on the new media again.
But under any case, this scenario applies to direct Copying and not like Rip and Burn type.
If you rip the CDs first to different format such as FLAC or APE or any other lossless format, the software you use may actually have options to normalize the audio file during ripping (thus makes the sound better? and more dynamics?)
Likewise, if you copy the lossless files back to the media, you have options to normalize these audio files again. For better or worse, the Ripped and Burned files may have many reasons to sound different (not necessary better) from the factory direct CDs and directly copied CDs.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
Unless you have activated RAW Read / Write Mode (aka Blind Read / Write mode) with specially designed copying software, any data Read from CD is error corrected before it gets written on the new media again.
My point precisely.SDA-1C (full mods)
Carver TFM-55
NAD 1130 Pre-amp
Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
The Clamp
Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
Ben's IC's
Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM -
By shiny object I mean stainless steel .45....and by lured I mean saying "Sure man, no problem, LOVE to."
Hehe.......Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Most audiophiles will agree that a copy of a cd sounds better than the original store bought.
Most? That's debatable.A copy of the original will fix some of the errors when copied and introduce fewer errors in the final write. Thus slightly better sound.
Except for the fact that also introduces both read and write errors that have to be corrected. Also, what do you believe is error correcting the CD burning? Cross-interleaved Reed-Solomon code. It's the exact same solution you have in your CD Player.Likewise, if you copy the lossless files back to the media, you have options to normalize these audio files again. For better or worse, the Ripped and Burned files may have many reasons to sound different (not necessary better) from the factory direct CDs and directly copied CDs.
Normalization alters the levels of the original Master file. A bit by bit recording shouldn't need normalization. It's akin to adding equalization or compression (dynamic range compression not space reduction compression) to the CD before you burn it and only should be considered on MP3 files or compressed files - not CD duplication or replication. The what the original mastering is for.
Anyway, if you hear a difference in burnt CD's? Burn away. If you hear a difference and it makes you happy , then do it. I'll stick to the original recordings and save some time and money.Slowly emerging from the 90's
Fronts: Polk LSi15's
Center: Polk CS350ls
Pre: Sony STRDA555ES
Amp: Rotel RMB-1075
Sub: Velodyne SPL-1000
TV: 46" Sharp Aquos LCD
Dust magnet: Sony PS3 -
woodsman10b wrote: »When burning any music the most important thing to look for is the Bitrate, the higher the bitrate number the better sound quality. Personally I wont use anything under a 240 bitrate, from what ive learned anything lower starts to drop off considerably in sound quality.
When you copy cd's the bitrate is 1411 kbps............so I have no idea what you are talking about. When copying you can't specify a bit rate..........it's all or nothing.
I suspect you are talking about making lossy conversion's NOT direct copies of the cd. In that case anything less than 1411 kbps sucks. Lossy conversion sucks and has no place in an audiophile system.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Typically you do NOT want to use the normalize function:
normalize is a tool for adjusting the volume of audio files to a standard level. This is useful for things like creating mixed CD's and mp3 collections, where different recording levels on different albums can cause the volume to vary greatly from song to song.
For a non-audiophile compilation or mp3 compilation for say an iPod, or car system it might make listening more consistent. But do NOT use it when copying single cd's for use in an audiophile rig."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Most? That's debatable.
Normalization alters the levels of the original Master file. A bit by bit recording shouldn't need normalization. It's akin to adding equalization or compression (dynamic range compression not space reduction compression) to the CD before you burn it and only should be considered on MP3 files or compressed files - not CD duplication or replication. The what the original mastering is for.
Anyway, if you hear a difference in burnt CD's? Burn away. If you hear a difference and it makes you happy , then do it. I'll stick to the original recordings and save some time and money.
True. True. And ok thanks.SDA-1C (full mods)
Carver TFM-55
NAD 1130 Pre-amp
Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
The Clamp
Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
Ben's IC's
Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM