Quality Music CD-R's?
Motzart
Posts: 1,075
Is there any such thing anymore?
I was using Maxell Music Pro CD-R's but can't find em in my area anymore.
They worked great!!
I recently bought some "average" Sony Music CD-R's and when I burned one it sounded like crap!
Static and such......original file on my puter was fine....I wasn't happy!
I later burned the tracks to a regular Maxell CD-R and it sounds just fine.
Is it me or is a regular Music CD more durable than a CD-R burn?
Surface of a CD-R seems more tender to scratching to me.
Is there even a diff tween a Music CD-R and a regular CD-R?
I was using Maxell Music Pro CD-R's but can't find em in my area anymore.
They worked great!!
I recently bought some "average" Sony Music CD-R's and when I burned one it sounded like crap!
Static and such......original file on my puter was fine....I wasn't happy!
I later burned the tracks to a regular Maxell CD-R and it sounds just fine.
Is it me or is a regular Music CD more durable than a CD-R burn?
Surface of a CD-R seems more tender to scratching to me.
Is there even a diff tween a Music CD-R and a regular CD-R?
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro
Post edited by Motzart on
Comments
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WOW no input on this? :eek:
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro -
no input..because I don't think many people burn CD- R's anymore. I know I haven't in years. most people use their MP3 players or like me and are old school and just listen to the original CDPolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
danger boy wrote: »no input..because I don't think many people burn CD- R's anymore. I know I haven't in years. most people use their MP3 players or like me and are old school and just listen to the original CD
Wow I find that hard to believe.
Gezzzz maybe I need to get out from under my rock now and then?
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro -
Owning an Esoteric X-03 I would not venture to burn my own. If so, I would have kept my old player. Besides, I'm hooked on SACD.Michael
In the beginning, all knowledge was new!
NORTH of 60° -
I still burn cd's off Itunes for my truck, The last batch I got seem to skip a lot.My equipment sig felt inadequate and deleted itself.
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I still burn cd's off Itunes for my truck, The last batch I got seem to skip a lot.
Yeah a lotta people still burn CD-R Music even if they don't admit it. :rolleyes:
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro -
I use regular 10-15 cents Sony CD-R for music or data. If it scratches bad, just burn another copy. I don't notice any hiss or static as you mentioned.
To hell with the Music grade CD-R if you have to pay more and it skips when u can burn repeatedly cheap with regular CD-R.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
I use regular 10-15 cents Sony CD-R for music or data. If it scratches bad, just burn another copy. I don't notice any hiss or static as you mentioned.
To hell with the Music grade CD-R if you have to pay more and it skips when u can burn repeatedly cheap with regular CD-R.
Dunno about other brands but as I mentioned I have used Maxell Music CD-R Pro's and never a problem.
Well till I ran out of em....that's a problem!
Maybe the Sony I tried was a fluke?
I did notice it was a lil thinner CD than the Maxell tho.
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro -
I like the MOFI CD-R's but I don't burn that often. If I did alot of work I'd use cheap ones.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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I never carry originals in the car, only back-ups. I tried a batch of Maxells & they were full of errors. Had good luck w/ HPs and Fujis (so far.:cool:)
Cheers, JimA day without music is like a day without food. -
Mofi gold CD-Rs.
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MoFi gold CD-R's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Never knew there was a truly good burned cd.;):D"SOME PEOPLE CALL ME MAURICE,
CAUSE I SPEAK OF THE POMPITIOUS OF LOVE" -
Burned CDs sound better than the stamped CDs.
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hearingimpared wrote: »Burned CDs sound better than the stamped CDs.
Thats what somebody else told me.. He said his local hi-fi shop has nothing but burned CD's to demo there gear with...
They have to be burned a certain way though. Don't they?
Nick -
I use a good quality brand of regular data cdr's. Sony, TDK and Verbatim all have worked flawlessly for me over the years. Many times it has to do with the ripping and/or burning program so make sure you're using well known reliable programs.
I have found when burning both dvdr's and cdr's there just seem to be a few incompatibilities with some burners and media. I pretty much stick with what's always worked for me. These instances are on the rare side though.
Stay away from the cheap no name crap, especially large quantity cake spindles.....the quality control seems to be all over the place for the el cheapo discs.
Also you don;t need to buy "music cdr's" the extra cost isn't worth it IMO,"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
nikolas812 wrote: »Thats what somebody else told me.. He said his local hi-fi shop has nothing but burned CD's to demo there gear with...
They have to be burned a certain way though. Don't they?
Nick
Yes, very slowly. -
I have great luck with just the plane old Maxell CDs.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
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Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
WOW no input on this? :eek:
Here's an old thread you may find interesting:
Better Sound With Music CD-R'sProud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
Thanx for the info DK!
Some very interesting reading for sure.
A real science to something we take for granted every day.
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro -
I like Verbatim but I have to say I don't burn a lot of music cd's. Usually I'll burn a copy to use in the car.
Now for movies Verbatim 8X DL blanks made in Singapore are about as good as it gets but they are getting hard to find.2 Channel:
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I use the Memorex music cd-r and burn at 1-2x speed and have not had a coaster is quite some time. Before I purchased my Marantz universal player I had an old NAD cd player that would not play burned cds at all from what the previous owned stated. Through trial and error with different brands and burn speeds I had the best results with Memorex music cd-r. My Marantz universal player,X-Box 360,PS3,older JVC I won in a Karma thread here,an older Toshiba and a older Kenwood cd player at my gym all play these burned discs great......I have not gotten one "disc read error" or "no disc" messages in a very long time.
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I still burn CD's. One thing I can say is stay away from the all black CDs they are crap. the only machine in the house that can read them is the computer. All my other sources receive errors.
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Hmmm, I have seen a lot of error's reported here. Which is surprising, I primarily use the cheapest ones I can find, I have burned over 100 cd's in the last year with one coaster. All of it has been either Sony or Maxwell, burned with NERO 7 at 48x. No static, no skips, I have burned both Audio CDr's, and MP3 Jukebox CDr's.
I always burn max speed. Whether its CDr's, DVD-r's, or DVD-DL's. Maybe it's the burner I have which is an LG Sata Burner. -
I use only Japanese-made "Music" CD-Rs. I've been using Maxell Music-Pro (packaged in regular jewel cases and in spindle) and Sony "Music" CD-Rs (packaged in spindle and with red plastic wrapping). I loaded up on these when they were available so I haven't been buying CD-Rs in the last 2 months or so. None has gone back for me yet....I also burn at the lowest possible speed my CD burner will allow (4X) and use only water-based CD-specific markers to write on them to ensure longevity. Geeky, huh?
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I use only Japanese-made "Music" CD-Rs. I've been using Maxell Music-Pro (packaged in regular jewel cases and in spindle) and Sony "Music" CD-Rs (packaged in spindle and with red plastic wrapping). I loaded up on these when they were available so I haven't been buying CD-Rs in the last 2 months or so. None has gone back for me yet....I also burn at the lowest possible speed my CD burner will allow (4X) and use only water-based CD-specific markers to write on them to ensure longevity. Geeky, huh?
Just me but.....I never write directly on a Cd.
I use the stick on lables after they go threw my printer with all my prefered printing.
That's what I was using was the Maxell Music Pro in seperate jewel cases.
Dunno if they are still availible cuz I can't find em around here anymore.
I was picky in my tape days also....only used the best Maxell's at the time.
I only choose to use Cd's from companies that have been in the music recordable media biz for years.
Maxell....TDK......Sony......nothing known just for media storage....I'm anal that way! :rolleyes:
While the Mofi Golds might be nice....now way will I spend that kinda dinero for blanks. I'm picky about quality but not that picky!
I burn with Ashampoo Burning Studio or CdBurner XP @ 48X with no problems 99% of the time.
My PC burner is a DVD R/RW Lite-On which was standard equipment with my Dell at the time.
Yamaha RX-A710 90Watt 7.1
Mains: RTi A1's Center: CS150 Sats: RT15i's Sub: Velodyne DPS-10
Music CD: Sony CDP-CE375 5 Disk
HD TV: Vizio 42" LCD 1080p E420VO
Blu-Ray: Sony BDP-S350
DVD: Sony DVP-NC665P 5 Disk
AV Rack: Sanus Euro EFAB-II Audio Base x2 EFAS-II Audio Expansion Shelf x4
Cables Used: Monster Cable HPD Sony HDMI DLCHE18W
Phones: Sennheiser HD280 Pro -
You do understand that just like the tape days......there are only a few "plants" that actually produce the raw materials for all brands of recordable media.
I'm with you though........I stick with what works; like I said I've used Sony, Maxell, Verbatim data discs and used to use Fuji (can't seem to find them anymore). I just wait until one of the 3 are on sale locally or at New Egg.
In the early days of cdr's I used japanese only Tao Yuden's exclusively with excellent success.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Just me but.....I never write directly on a Cd.
I use the stick on lables after they go threw my printer with all my prefered printing.
That's what I was using was the Maxell Music Pro in seperate jewel cases.
Dunno if they are still availible cuz I can't find em around here anymore.
I was picky in my tape days also....only used the best Maxell's at the time.
I only choose to use Cd's from companies that have been in the music recordable media biz for years.
Maxell....TDK......Sony......nothing known just for media storage....I'm anal that way! :rolleyes:
While the Mofi Golds might be nice....now way will I spend that kinda dinero for blanks. I'm picky about quality but not that picky!
I burn with Ashampoo Burning Studio or CdBurner XP @ 48X with no problems 99% of the time.
My PC burner is a DVD R/RW Lite-On which was standard equipment with my Dell at the time.
I suppose I am too lazy to print out a label for the CD-R. Maybe I should....any recommendations?
I never had much luck with TDK....going back to the blank cassette days. Back then, we had fist fights at our college radio station over the preferred blank cassette tape (mine was Sony UX-series high bias tapes).
Memorex....never like their blank cassettes and I've heard nothing but negative comments on their blank CD-Rs. -
I use printables (print directly on the cd) in my cheapo HP printer. Very very few coasters any brand. Also use printable DVD's. Fantastic results nearly every time.SDA-1C (full mods)
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I've seen the discussion of whether the media brand affects general sound quality and it's like asking whether a Word Document looks better from a Verbatim CD or a Maxell CD.
In the digital world, information is simply 1's and 0's. Digital has no preference to pictures vs audio vs video vs word documents. Our computerized devices have to be TOLD what type of information is in the data and how to turn it back into something we understand (a digital to analog conversion).
Analog information is encoded into a string of binary numbers and on the return trip back to analog, these 1's and 0's either make up that original string of numbers - or they don't. There's very little room for error. Digital can't stand a degraded signal. It throws up it's hands and gives up.
That's why there's error correction.
How does it work? In a very general sense, it looks at patterns and redundant information and uses it to make a very educated guess. Think of a staircase. If someone were to come along and destroy the third stair up, you could simply rebuild the stair by looking at the stair before it, and the stair after it, and conclude the missing stair probably is the same height, color and style. Problems arise when too much information is gone. Going back to the staircase, imagine it was very long with different types if steps. If too many steps were missing, you couldn't make an accurate guess of the pattern and without a blueprint or pattern to follow you'd throw your hands up and quit. That's digital.
For the CD audio world, the error correction is called Reed-Solomon code and it's extra information that's added to the original data to help the DAC (digital to analog converter) to, well... rebuild the stairs. Without Reed-Solomon code, that blank of information causes a failure. In the audio world, it comes out as a large buzz, click, or pop - with absolutely no resemblance to the original information... and it's not subtle.
People need to stop thinking a digital signal is like an analog TV signal. You look at the analog signal, and see a degraded snowy picture when the signal is weak - but it resembles the original. Think about your digital TV signal, and you see what happens when a digital signal degrades and can't be error corrected. It stops abruptly. It throws up its hands and gives up. Thanks to error correction, if the errors are few enough the signal is rebuilt and life goes on.
The authoring (or recording) process, the initial analog to digital conversion and the DAC in the playback device have an infinitely larger affect on sound quality than the media.
While it's true that dye differences and quality of materials affect CD burning, the level of errors that would be needed to alter the effective bandwidth and overall quality of the audio through error correction would be incredibly high. Even with graceful degradation, it's doubtful it would simply exhibit itself as poor sound quality.Slowly emerging from the 90's
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