Studies On Residential Power Line Noise - Part 6: PS Audio Soloist Special Edition

dpowell

DK, is a recepticle like this intended for one component per outlet or can you hang multiple components off of it? i.e. can you run an entire rack of equipment off of one plug without losing part or all of the improvements it is intended to provide? If someone were to install one of these, what, in your opinion is the most important piece of gear to plug in?

heiney9

jinjuku wrote: »

Since only one of us is capable of being an adult and having a rational conversation...


Why is there no comparison to another like power conditioning product?

The problem is Ju Ju, your reputation precedes you. One cannot reasonably walk back across a bridge that is no longer there.

I really wanted to refrain from mucking up this thread, but I can see one troll is going full bore.

H9

jinjuku

heiney9 wrote: »

The problem is Ju Ju, your reputation precedes you. One cannot reasonably walk back across a bridge that is no longer there.

I really wanted to refrain from mucking up this thread, but I can see one troll is going full bore.

H9

Last time I looked you weren't the official greeter at the Polk forums.

What is troll about my post?

Why can't a question be asked about a comparable / competitive product?

Why do you guys feel so threatened that you lash out?

Why can't you answer topic relevant questions instead of resorting to Ad-hominem attacks?

Why should I buy two of the Audio PS Soloist vs the Furman 1800 PF R?

I was hoping for a reply from PS Audio/DK. It's going to take more than a one sided tech-advertisement to get me to spend my $$. PS Audio/DK knows enough about their product and most likely the market in general to answer legitimate questions.

I ask one legitimate question and all the usual collective here can do is act in their usual chimpanzee fashion. You know that bridge you were talking about? Jump off of it. Come back when you are relevant.

ben62670

Yes idiots do scare me. They reproduce.
Thanks JuJu.
Please turn down that extra bowl of stupid in the morning.
Ben

heiney9

jinjuku wrote: »

Last time I looked you weren't the official greeter at the Polk forums.

What is troll about my post?

Why can't a question be asked about a comparable / competitive product?

Why do you guys feel so threatened that you lash out?

Why can't you answer topic relevant questions instead of resorting to Ad-hominem attacks?

Why should I buy two of the Audio PS Soloist vs the Furman 1800 PF R?

I was hoping for a reply from PS Audio/DK. It's going to take more than a one sided tech-advertisement to get me to spend my $$. PS Audio/DK knows enough about their product and most likely the market in general to answer legitimate questions.

I ask one legitimate question and all the usual collective here can do is act in their usual chimpanzee fashion. You know that bridge you were talking about? Jump off of it. Come back when you are relevant.

1. look at your sig....purely there to stir the pot

2. your glorious past leads one to resonably assume you are stirring the pot.

3. your snide comment about this being "an obvious ad for PS audio"

4. because your Ju Ju.

5. I'm not on the welcoming comittee.

Have a nice day, I know I am

DarqueKnight

dpowell wrote: »

DK, is a recepticle like this intended for one component per outlet or can you hang multiple components off of it? i.e. can you run an entire rack of equipment off of one plug without losing part or all of the improvements it is intended to provide? If someone were to install one of these, what, in your opinion is the most important piece of gear to plug in?

The Soloist can be used just like any outlet, with one or multiple components running off it. I only have one power cord plugged into each because I am running multiple dedicated AC circuits: one each for the JC 1 monoblock amps and one for the Power Plant Premier AC regenerator.

dpowell wrote: »

If someone were to install one of these, what, in your opinion is the most important piece of gear to plug in?

This will vary depending on your equipment. I heard the biggest improvement in my powered subwoofers. Next was power amps, then preamps, then source components.

jinjuku

heiney9 wrote: »

3. your snide comment about this being "an obvious ad for PS audio"
Have a nice day, I know I am

(In a Bullwinkle voice) Gee Rocky what ever gave you that idea?!



Ah, it's pretty obvious that it is a PS Audio ad.

heiney9 wrote: »

I'm not on the welcoming comittee.

That much was obvious from the get go...:rolleyes:

reeltrouble1

DK,

based on your finding and in the interest of total synergy I am strongly leaning toward three soloist, one for each mono-block and one for the rack, all on different 20 amp circuits, as you know I have hinted at a big step up for the Shed Rig and this is only a small part. Anyway, I am going to have the lines put in by an installer this time as I am just getting to old for this stuff, they seem to be a bit balky about putting in the devices on a 20 amp circuit, did you install your own after you had the lines pulled??

After the soloist I may consolidate all the cords to psaudio, not sure on that one yet though.

RT1

DarqueKnight

Yes, I installed the Soloists after the electrician ran the additional AC circuits.

ben62670

jinjuku wrote: »

(In a Bullwinkle voice) Gee Rocky what ever gave you that idea?!



Ah, it's pretty obvious that it is a PS Audio ad.



That much was obvious from the get go...:rolleyes:

I know where he works(not HiFi). If you had half a brain and read other write ups by DK you would understand that he can't work for a dozen or so companies;)
Pleas say something intelligent, or nothing at all.
Thanks again.
Ben

dpowell

jinjuku wrote: »

I was hoping for a reply from PS Audio/DK. It's going to take more than a one sided tech-advertisement to get me to spend my $$. PS Audio/DK knows enough about their product and most likely the market in general to answer legitimate questions.

Why don't you go buy one of each and write a review at the same level of detail as DK has, comparing the differences between the two. That would be a much better contribution than conjecture as to how the PS Audio compares to the recepticle you're advertising.

DarqueKnight

Guys,

Please don't turn this into another trolling bitchfest. I gave notice here that I had "upgraded" certain member's status. Therefore, this is what I am seeing when I look at this thread:



Thank you for your consideration.

jinjuku

dpowell wrote: »

Why don't you go buy one of each and write a review at the same level of detail as DK has, comparing the differences between the two. That would be a much better contribution than conjecture as to how the PS Audio compares to the recepticle you're advertising.

I would if I could get real data on the PS Audio Unit compared to what Furman puts out:





So I guess I should just take the 'regulars' word for it...

jinjuku

DarqueKnight wrote: »

Guys,

Please don't turn this into another trolling bitchfest. I gave notice here that I had "upgraded" certain member's status. Therefore, this is what I am seeing when I look at this thread:



Thank you for your consideration.

Now if I can only get RT1 and Heiney 9 to follow suite...

dpowell

DarqueKnight wrote: »

The Soloist can be used just like any outlet, with one or multiple components running off it. I only have one power cord plugged into each because I am running multiple dedicated AC circuits: one each for the JC 1 monoblock amps and one for the Power Plant Premier AC regenerator.This will vary depending on your equipment. I heard the biggest improvement in my powered subwoofers. Next was power amps, then preamps, then source components.

Thanks! One other question. I ran separate circuits for my RT3000 main sub outlets as well as a separate circuit for my rack and projector. Is there a product that can filter at the first outlet on the circuit and provide that benefit to other outlets down the line. If so does the benefit diminish if poor quality outlets are used for subsequent connection points?

To boil it down, my question is can you do this once per circuit vs at every point of the circuit?

DarqueKnight

dpowell wrote: »

Is there a product that can filter at the first outlet on the circuit and provide that benefit to other outlets down the line.

I don't know of one. There are power conditioners that go between the electric service and the house, but I don't know if any of them allow for selective conditioning of individual circuits.

dpowell wrote: »

If so does the benefit diminish if poor quality outlets are used for subsequent connection points?

Yes. But that does not mean it would be audible.

dpowell wrote: »

To boil it down, my question is can you do this once per circuit vs at every point of the circuit?

I don't know of a product that will allow you to filter/condition individual AC circuits at the breaker. Isoclean makes an audio grade breaker panel, but I don't recall the particulars of it.

I don't think introducing filtering/conditioning at the point an AC circuit leaves the breaker panel is a good idea unless you are going to use a grade of wire that will preserve the benefits of the conditioner. If you will be placing common noisy house wiring after the filter, you will diminish the effect of the filter.

It is better to place a conditioner at the individual receptacles and then use good quality power cords after the conditioners. This better preserves the conditioner's benefits all the way to the component.

dpowell

makes a lot of sense. Thanks!

DarqueKnight

gonzalc3 wrote: »

Darqueknight

I read your reviews about the power port premier vs the power port, and the one about the soloist premier... In some parts you mention that in terms of the subwoofer you found some improvement by adding the pp but I got confuse about the soloist.. Since you end up saying something that at least you got protection by adding it...

I am thinking on replacing my soloist with the special edition one where I plug my ac conditioner that has the projector, preamp, player ,etc.. And use the soloist with the subwoofer (and of course replace the sub's power cord).... Do you think that will be an improvement by doing so? I have the subwoofer and the rest of the equipment in separate ac circuits....

What I said was:

DarqueKnight wrote: »

Due to the modest subwoofer improvements with the PPP, I was not expecting big things from the Soloist. Even if there were no audible improvements, the sonically uncompromising surge protection provided by the Soloist would be worth the expense and effort.

The statements above were my thoughts prior to installing the Soloist in the subwoofer's AC circuit. I have never compared a Soloist to a Soloist SE. All I have is to go on are the reports from former Soloist users (on Audio Asylum and the PS Audio forums) who switched from the Soloist to the Soloist SE and heard a big difference. My review goes on to state that I did hear improvements from the Soloist SE.

If you were using the same subwoofer, had the same power line conditions and had the same room characteristics as I, then I would have some confidence in saying you have a good chance of hearing an improvement with the Soloist SE. Since your equipment and listening environment are different, all I can say is,the experiences of others for insight, and then see what your results are...and of course...let us know how things turned out.:)

gonzalc3

DK,

To tell you the truth, I was really skeptical on doing any sort of upgrade to the subwoofer. But I replace the fuse for an isoclean fuse and made an important improvement.. I am using a regular surge protector (those regular bars that are sold for computers) and the subwoofer original cable plug into a regular power port... The idea is to replace that power port with the soloist and replace the subwoofer cable with either a power punch or a signal audio magic cord.. Then, after reading your review on the differences between the power port and the power port premier, made me wonder whether by switching the soloist for the soloist premier could made a benefit to my gear....

tarquineous

There are some products that are designed for use close to, or in the breaker panel. I believe after researching these, that they should be used in addition to PLCs near the components. Some people who avoid Audiophile PLCs may use them, and only plug their components into wall outlets.

Two of them that I would like to mention are : Powerworks Rx Whole House Energy System, and Environmental Solutions EP2050. The EP2050 was reviewed at Positive Feedback Online.

Both provide protection, with the Powerworks Rx adding power factor correction, and the EP2050 adding sine wave correction. Check them out !

JuJu asked about similar products to the PS Soloist. The question as stated, sparked negative reactions, and hampered appropriate answers. I will mention a few :

1. MIT Duplex, 2. Furmann In-wall transformer, 3. Audio Replas wall receptacle.

The MIT is a receptacle with a small box attached to the back. While they are good, I don't think they are as complete of a PLC, compared to the Soloist SE. They are about half the price, and are made with a regular commercial duplex.

The Furmann In-wall is a large unit, well over $1K, and is very good. Two should probably be used for a high-end system, and for mono blocs, two just for the amps !

The Audio Replas is a duplex mounted in a thick wall plate that is filled with their proprietary material. Their prices are very high, in the neighborhood of $2-3K for one duplex with plate, depending on your choice of thick plate(more filling), or the thinner version.

So overall, I see DKs review as being right on, from my experience with PLCs, isolation, and adequate break-in. I have a UPC-200 which has two of the Soloist's modules inside, so I have an idea of the basic sound.

Based on all so far, I think two or three Soloist SEs for the audio system, and a Powerworks Rx at the breaker panel would give great results for anyone after great sound, and an average budget.

I currently have a Synergistic Powercell for source components, and have just ordered a Soloist SE to try on the amp and preamp. I will post as soon as I audition it.

tarq

F1nut

Nice first post, welcome to Club Polk.

deseroner

ok i just got one also, i want to replace my outlet behind my rig, can i just remove the old wallplate and outlet , and just plug and play without running a new power outlet to garage.

DarqueKnight

deseroner wrote: »

ok i just got one also,...

What did you get?

deseroner

DarqueKnight wrote: »

What did you get?

i got the soloist ci .

DarqueKnight

deseroner wrote: »

i got the soloist ci .

deseroner wrote: »

ok i just got one also, i want to replace my outlet behind my rig, can i just remove the old wallplate and outlet , and just plug and play without running a new power outlet to garage.

You can use the existing wiring, but the Soloist requires a double-size outlet. It is not a drop-in replacement for a regular outlet. The existing outlet box will be difficult to remove as it is probably nailed to a stud. If this is an outlet that was added after the house was built, then the box is most likely held in place with tabs and will be easy to remove.

If you are able to easily remove the existing box, the existing hole will have to be enlarged to accommodate the Soloist's box.

If the existing box is not easy to remove, you will have to cut a hole near the existing box and run a wire extension from the existing box to the Solist's box similar to what is shown in figures 18-20 of this thread.

BlueFox

Mr DarqueKnight,

Currently, I have a Panamax M5300EX connected to the wall outlet via a Pangea AC-9 power cord. However, the wall outlet is stock and probably original, and the wiring is original, circa 1958. Unfortunately, due to the design of this house, and AC/heating ducts in the attic, it is nearly impossible to run new wire to the two-channel system.

However, even with the ancient wire, I am getting very positive improvements from component power cable upgrades (Pangea AC-14SE and Shunyata Python CX). Due to the excellent results from my Shunyata power cables, and Anaconda speaker cables, I am now a Shunyata fanatic. So, I am planning on replacing the Panamax with a Shunyata Hydra, and replacing the Pangea AC-9 with an Anaconda power cable. Based on past experience with Shunyata I expect a very obvious and positive improvement.

However, after spending all this money, I am still stuck with the original wiring. At the least, I can replace the wall receptacle so long as it fits in a standard AC outlet box (as you mentioned above).

Do you have any recommendations as to a good standard size outlet upgrade? For example, this Kimber Kable outlet seems like it would fit, and I hope it is an improvement. I will do the outlet first, since my upgrade fund is now going to speakers, with the Shunyata gear coming later.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=KKWG381

DarqueKnight

BlueFox wrote: »

Do you have any recommendations as to a good standard size outlet upgrade? For example, this Kimber Kable outlet seems like it would fit, and I hope it is an improvement. I will do the outlet first, since my upgrade fund is now going to speakers, with the Shunyata gear coming later.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=KKWG381

I didn't know that Kimber had gotten into the audio grade outlet market.

The only audio grade outlets I have used are PS Audio Power Ports and PS Audio Power Port Premiers. My review of the Power Port Premier can be read here: PS-Audio-Power-Port-Premier

PS Audio has discontinued their line of audio grade outlets because they wanted to narrow their product focus in power products. Their outlets can still be found as new old stock and as used stock on Audiogon. PS Audio has had some issues with conterfeit product on eBay, so I would be wary of buying there unless it was from a reputable seller.

Research some reviews on other audio grade outlet manufacturers such as Porter Ports, Oyaide and Furutech and get some more insight. You don't have to spend over a $100 (or anywhere near that) to get a good upgrade outlet.

deseroner

DarqueKnight wrote: »

You can use the existing wiring, but the Soloist requires a double-size outlet. It is not a drop-in replacement for a regular outlet. The existing outlet box will be difficult to remove as it is probably nailed to a stud. If this is an outlet that was added after the house was built, then the box is most likely held in place with tabs and will be easy to remove.

If you are able to easily remove the existing box, the existing hole will have to be enlarged to accommodate the Soloist's box.

If the existing box is not easy to remove, you will have to cut a hole near the existing box and run a wire extension from the existing box to the Solist's box similar to what is shown in figures 18-20 of this thread.

thanks man.

BlueFox

DarqueKnight wrote: »

I didn't know that Kimber had gotten into the audio grade outlet market. .......
You don't have to spend over a $100 (or anywhere near that) to get a good upgrade outlet.

If there is money to be made then companies will get into the market.

The question to me is what is their value to price ratio. For something this 'inexpensive' (compared to everything else), I do not mind spending a few dollars more. What I want to avoid is changing the outlet, and then finding out there is something even better.

The problem is changing the outlet means moving the rack out of the way, and then doing the electrical work. I hate changing outlets since it always seems the wire is barely long enough to reach the current outlet, and being a meticulous electrician, I will end up stripping back a bit more wire, and doing a great job wrapping the wire around the outlet terminal. Of course, each time reduces the length of the wire, and at some point I will be SOL, and have to wire nut an extension onto the wire, which, of course, will add noise. :rolleyes:

deseroner

DarqueKnight wrote: »

You can use the existing wiring, but the Soloist requires a double-size outlet. It is not a drop-in replacement for a regular outlet. The existing outlet box will be difficult to remove as it is probably nailed to a stud. If this is an outlet that was added after the house was built, then the box is most likely held in place with tabs and will be easy to remove.

If you are able to easily remove the existing box, the existing hole will have to be enlarged to accommodate the Soloist's box.

If the existing box is not easy to remove, you will have to cut a hole near the existing box and run a wire extension from the existing box to the Solist's box similar to what is shown in figures 18-20 of this thread.

cool, i got it working i just cut right next to it , and used the yellow connectors, testing it and it sounds marvelous so far. sealed old box .easy to do.