How do I change my oil?

billbillw

My main advice is to get a decent set of jack-stands. I hate ramps and I would never go under the car with only a jack holding the car up. Other than jack-stands and the correct sized wrenches, IMHO, there are a few essential tools/implements to make things easier/safer.
1) a floor creeper
2) a good closed drain pan with a spout.
3) a set of craftsman strap wrenches (for removing the filter). They will fit any size filter.
4) safety glasses. Your day can be ruined by a little bit of falling dirt in your eye.

Depending where your oil drain plug and filter are, you should raise the car to facilitate draining. In other words, if the drain is on the right side, jack up the left side higher (or vice versa). If the drain is rear facing, I try to raise the car evenly.

Chock at least one of the rear wheels (front and back side of the tire). I also make sure the parking brake is tight.

Don't rush. Make sure you have the car properly lifted before you go under.

Ricardo

Jstas wrote: »

No, not true. The problem with the seals is simple. Seals soak up oil and expand to fill the void they are sealing. That is how they work.

The reason some OLD (i.e.: 100,000+ miles) see issues with the switch from dino oil to synthetic oil is because the new, synthetic oil, with it's detergents, higher resistance to operational extremes and viscosity breakdown, will wash the old oil and sediment deposits out of the seals and causes them to shrink. The new oil doesn't always fill them up properly and the collapsed portions of the seals leave leak points. That is why seals can leak after changing to synthetic oil.

Yada yada yada. Same thing, different words. (Mine were better by the way).

Jstas

Ricardo wrote: »

Yada yada yada. Same thing, different words. (Mine were better by the way).

No, not the same thing.

You mentioned carbon on "cylinders, valves, rings" and that some of the carbon might be part of the sealing "material". You're not going to get carbon build up out of oil unless you are burning it. You might get varnish which is essentially hardened paraffin but you won't get carbon. Oil sludge is made up of dirt, water and oil that has lost it's viscosity because of the water bonding with the paraffin making it stick together.

If you have carbon build up from oil then you have some serious problems.

brettw22

Those cars are notorious for main seal leaks and the only way to completely eliminate them is to pull the transmission and replace. My sister has been through 2 of them (she likes being a crash test dummy) but on each of them we had them inspected and both had the leaking issue from the main seal.

There is an oil sensor on the back of the engine towards the top that could be leaking as well, but generally the leak is from the main seal.

Ricardo

Yada yada yada...just busting your chops.

....And I never said carbon builds up from oil; it builds from combustion; a sub product if you will.

....And when I used the word seal I didn't mean the rubber (or whatever) seals you find on valves, cam shaft etc. I mean the seal you have between piston rings and cylinder walls, or between valves and valve seats.

WilliamM2

ben62670 wrote: »

I know how to do it, but like Bob says why bother. It's cheaper/as cheap, and no mess.

As cheap or cheaper than doing it yourself? Around here they charge $24.95, I can do it myself in 15 minutes for $10.

Guess I'm used to doing my own becuase of my bikes, the bike shop wants $150 (+ oil & filter) to change oil, claim all the fairings need to be removed (they don't), and as long as I'm changing the bike, might as well do the cars too.

heiney9

WilliamM2 wrote: »

As cheap or cheaper than doing it yourself? Around here they charge $24.95, I can do it myself in 15 minutes for $10.

For the oil, filter and your time?

Wow, must be a real small engine, unless you're not talking about a car.

vlam

You are really rushing if you are changing your oils in ten minutes. It takes me about that long to get all the tools out and prep for an oil change. Another 10 minutes to clean up.

But as an earlier post mentioned.. don't rush when you work on your car. If you are going to rush.. just take it to Jiffy Lube.

I stopped doing oil for a few years after I got new cars. It was cheaper and more convenience when the car was under warranty to drop it off, pick up a loaner and pick it up later. Now that it's out of warranty, no loaner and I have to say "NO" to too many things that the dealer want to rip me off on.

WilliamM2

heiney9 wrote: »

For the oil, filter and your time?

Wow, must be a real small engine, unless you're not talking about a car.

It's a Mazda, takes 3.75 quarts, usually bought on sale at Autozone for $1.50 a quart. Filter is $3. I usually don't bill myself for the time. Not like I don't have a spare 15 minutes every 3 months or so.

WilliamM2

vlam wrote: »

You are really rushing if you are changing your oils in ten minutes. It takes me about that long to get all the tools out and prep for an oil change. Another 10 minutes to clean up.

But as an earlier post mentioned.. don't rush when you work on your car. If you are going to rush.. just take it to Jiffy Lube.

I stopped doing oil for a few years after I got new cars. It was cheaper and more convenience when the car was under warranty to drop it off, pick up a loaner and pick it up later. Now that it's out of warranty, no loaner and I have to say "NO" to too many things that the dealer want to rip me off on.

Your right, it does take another 15 minutes or so to clean up, but I'm not rushing. All I need is a drain pan, empty gal jug, a 17mm socket and a filter wrench. No biggie, and they are all already in the garage.

nebborjk

Fireman32 wrote: »

Also make sure that when you remove the old fileter that all of the old gasket comes off as well.

This is very important. I would recommend holding the old and new filter side by side and do a comparison. If the new filter looks like the old new (minus the dirt) then you're good to go.

Motzart

suprafantx wrote: »

If you do it this way, do not buy the drain plug gasket. That will save you some money.:D

Is that anywhere near the muffler bearing? :D

billbillw

WilliamM2 wrote: »

It's a Mazda, takes 3.75 quarts, usually bought on sale at Autozone for $1.50 a quart. Filter is $3. I usually don't bill myself for the time. Not like I don't have a spare 15 minutes every 3 months or so.

That's not typical though. My car needs almost 6 quarts and the filter is never less than $5. Oil usually runs $14-16 for one 5q container, so I don't know where you ever get it for $1.50 a Q. My cost is usually $20-$25+time, which usually is about 1 hour, start to finish. My car has an underbelly tray, so it takes a little longer to get that off and back on. Without that, it would probably be a 40 minute job. I still do it because I enjoy working on the car and I like to keep track of how things underneath are doing (CV Joints, seals, bushings, etc.) The VW dealer would charge at least $39, but you have to make an appointment. I would never take my car to a Jiffylube.

Jstas

Motzart wrote: »

Is that anywhere near the muffler bearing? :D

No, alot of newer cars, especially Japanese ones, come with copper crush washers that operate as a gasket for the drain plug. It keeps the drain plug from over torquing on aluminum or stamped steel pans and deforming the drain hole which in turn would cause leaks.

Older cars and trucks with thicker oil pain walls don't necessarily need it because the pan is stronger and less likely to bend or crack.

heiney9

billbillw wrote: »

That's not typical though. My car needs almost 6 quarts and the filter is never less than $5. Oil usually runs $14-16 for one 5q container, so I don't know where you ever get it for $1.50 a Q. My cost is usually $20-$25+time, which usually is about 1 hour, start to finish. My car has an underbelly tray, so it takes a little longer to get that off and back on. Without that, it would probably be a 40 minute job. I still do it because I enjoy working on the car and I like to keep track of how things underneath are doing (CV Joints, seals, bushings, etc.) The VW dealer would charge at least $39, but you have to make an appointment. I would never take my car to a Jiffylube.

+1

6Q x $5 = $30

Mann or Mahle O.E.M. Filter is about $15

Pay my VW guru $15 in cash or a 12pk of Modelo and it's a done deal for around $60 give or take. He has 2 lifts as well as disposal of the old oil.

No one except me or my VW mechanic of 20 years touches any of my cars (which all happen to be/have been VW); especially these Quick Lube places. For every successful trip; I can name an unsuccessful one.

On a side not my brother has an '04 Audi S4 with the V8; it took over 11Q of oil and it's only 4.2L engine. I was amazed

H9

Sami

heiney9 wrote: »

On a side not my brother has an '04 Audi S4 with the V8; it took over 11Q of oil and it's only 4.2L engine. I was amazed

That's a lot. My BMW took about 9 quartz (4.5l V8). Dealer wanted $240 for the oil change, I think my total cost was $90 for filter and Mobil 1. Had the Walmart guys do it though, not worth my time. I still do it on my bike and my other car but on my daily I just let the service guys do it. Good for another 15k miles now.

exalted512

I also like to run about a quarter of a quart of oil through with the drain plug out. Gets more of the old oil out. Its easy to tell...pour it until you see less black oil coming out and more brown, then put the drain plug back in.
-Cody

Motzart

Jstas wrote: »

No, alot of newer cars, especially Japanese ones, come with copper crush washers that operate as a gasket for the drain plug. It keeps the drain plug from over torquing on aluminum or stamped steel pans and deforming the drain hole which in turn would cause leaks.

Older cars and trucks with thicker oil pain walls don't necessarily need it because the pan is stronger and less likely to bend or crack.

I was making a phunny! :rolleyes:

Serendipity

Jstas wrote: »

No, not true. The problem with the seals is simple. Seals soak up oil and expand to fill the void they are sealing. That is how they work.

The reason some OLD (i.e.: 100,000+ miles) see issues with the switch from dino oil to synthetic oil is because the new, synthetic oil, with it's detergents, higher resistance to operational extremes and viscosity breakdown, will wash the old oil and sediment deposits out of the seals and causes them to shrink. The new oil doesn't always fill them up properly and the collapsed portions of the seals leave leak points. That is why seals can leak after changing to synthetic oil.

Otherwise, if you want to use synthetic oil in a car that has been well maintained with dino oil, it's not an issue.



As far as changing oil, if you can't tell the difference between an oil pan and a transmission pan, you really shouldn't be under the car with a wrench. Either get it done or go to Pep Boys or AutoZone or something and pick up a Haynes service manual for your car. It will tell you how to do routine maintenance in addition to major and minor repairs. Another option is to go to AutoZone's website and buy yourself an ALLDATA subscription for your particular car. It's pretty cheap, 20-30 bucks a year. But it is always updated with service bullitens and recalls and such.

Thanks. I just got back from Pep Boys with 4 quarts of dino oil and oil filter and I'm looking to do this sometime in the next few days.

And yes, I know where the oil pain is

John30_30

Eric Wong wrote: »

Ok more tips and tricks. Warm the car up some so the oil flows out easier taking more gunk with it but be careful not to burn yourself.

Disposable Gloves are useful. Lay newspaper/cardboard down as you're likely to make some mess when the filter comes off. Wear old clothes.

You might need an oil filter wrench if the old one is stuck on (happens sometimes). Use a 6 point wrench/socket on the drain plug instead of 12. On that note use the proper wrench (yours is metric). Dispose of the oil properly...

Changing oil is easy.

If the car is hot from running, not just warm, I can near guarantee you'll burn your hand on a pipe.
Also, getting the old filter off is usually the biggest pita. Sometimes you have to improvise, since generic filter wrenches just won't fit in there. I've had to knock a screwdriver through one to torque it off a few times. Which gets old oil all over.
But seriously, unless you have carpal tunnel, hand-tightening the new one is sufficient. But tight hand-tight.
Also a floor jack to crawl under it in the first place, unless it's raised up or you're real skinny.

Serendipity

brettw22 wrote: »

Those cars are notorious for main seal leaks and the only way to completely eliminate them is to pull the transmission and replace. My sister has been through 2 of them (she likes being a crash test dummy) but on each of them we had them inspected and both had the leaking issue from the main seal.

There is an oil sensor on the back of the engine towards the top that could be leaking as well, but generally the leak is from the main seal.

How severe of an issue is this? And is it expensive to fix?

Also, if the engine has high mileage, would it be worthwhile to repair?

Serendipity

Here's a pic of what I am talking about:

66chevyIISS

Don't forget you should change your headlight fluid the same time as your oil. Very critical step.

MikeC78

appadv wrote: »

Here's a pic of what I am talking about:

Hard to tell from that pic, but that doesnt look like the oil pan... Looks like the diff or the tranny leaking. Is the oil red?

Serendipity

That's the oil pan.

The oil is dark colored, not pinkish-red like tranny fluid. I don't know why the color on the picture came out like that, might be the camera?

Face

Looks like a transmission case to me also.

Trans fluid can turn brown also.

Serendipity

Then why is the trans fluid light pink when you pull the dipstick?

And this is close to the oil drain plug, not the transmission.

MikeC78

appadv wrote: »

That's the oil pan.

The oil is dark colored, not pinkish-red like tranny fluid. I don't know why the color on the picture came out like that, might be the camera?

You know for sure? Not trying to bust your balls, but that looks like an aluminum housing, not that many oil pans that I know of look or come like that. Looks to be a diff housing with a drain bolt right there on the bottom. However, I dont know crap about the layout of your car either.

Like Face said, the color can be deceiving and the tranny fluid can be brownish in color, but if it was properly flushed or changed it should have some red tint to it. Check to see what color it is on the dipstick.

Serendipity

The color is a light pink when checked on the dipstick.

MikeC78

appadv wrote: »

Then why is the trans fluid light pink when you pull the dipstick?

And this is close to the oil drain plug, not the transmission.

Ok, then where is the trans located?