How do I change my oil?

Serendipity

I want to do it myself.

Ricardo

Synthetic oil will "clean" all the carbon build up in the cylinder, valves, rings......
Some of that carbon might be part of the sealing "material". If that's the case, you'll lose that seal and will start burning oil. I've seen it happen.

Rule of thumb is if you don't switch to synthetic before you hit 10,000 miles (some think 5,000), then don't ever switch.

suprafantx

Motzart wrote: »

How about take off the oil cap and flip the car on it's roof?

If you do it this way, do not buy the drain plug gasket. That will save you some money.:D

heiney9

Ricardo wrote: »

Synthetic oil will "clean" all the carbon build up in the cylinder, valves, rings......
Some of that carbon might be part of the saeling material. If that's the case, you'll lose that seal and will start burning oil. I've seen it happen.

Rule of thumb is if you don't switch to synthetic beore you hit 10,000 miles (some think 5,000), then don't ever switch.

This is more or less a myth. Not wanting to get into synthetic vs. dino oil. But this is simply not true. If that is the case then you have other issues that need to be addressed.

Sorry I just had to get this out .

There are cases where an engine has extreme issues where switching has been detrimental, but overall it's not the norm.

Serendipity

Ricardo wrote: »

Synthetic oil will "clean" all the carbon build up in the cylinder, valves, rings......
Some of that carbon might be part of the sealing "material. If that's the case, you'll lose that seal and will start burning oil. I've seen it happen.

Rule of thumb is if you don't switch to synthetic before you hit 10,000 miles (some think 5,000), then don't ever switch.

How about slowly switching, as in 1 quart now, then in 3,000 miles 2 quarts, etc.

Or is it a BAD thing to mix synthetic and regular oil?

Ricardo

heiney9 wrote: »

This is more or less a myth. Not wanting to get into synthetic vs. dino oil. But this is simply not true. If that is the case then you have other issues that need to be addressed.

Sorry I just had to get this out .

There are cases where an engine has extreme issues where switching has been detrimental, but overall it's not the norm.

Well, as I said I've seen it happen. I guess it will depend on the condition of the engine. Are you willing to take the risk?

Serendipity

Ricardo wrote: »

Well, as I said I've seen it happen. I guess it will depend on the condition of the engine. Are you willing to take the risk?

What if the oil has been changed every ~2750 miles and the engine is in good condition?

Ricardo

appadv wrote: »

What if the oil has been changed every ~2750 miles and the engine is in good condition?

You want to do it, do it.

Serendipity

Ricardo wrote: »

You want to do it, do it.

Not trying to argue here, just trying to learn...

heiney9

appadv wrote: »

Not trying to argue here, just trying to learn...

Well, I'd say the Polk Audio forum is not the place to learn. I don't go to the Volkwagen forum asking about home theater.

We can give advice, but if you are really looking for soild info try a Nissan or auto forum. Just my .02c

YMMV,

H9

Fongolio

Don't overfill. Only to between the full lines on the stick. Overfull can blow seals.

Serendipity

Thanks anyways.

So today I will go and pick up 4 quarts of dino oil, and an oil filter. Looks like switching to synthetic on a high mileage engine is not a good idea...

vlam

I want to do it myself.

If you insist on doing it yourself, then I suggest you at least have the following. You may have to buy certain tools/devices and it will pay off if you do a few more oil changes in the future. If this is a one time deal, it may be an expensive oil change.

Generally you will need:

1. ramp or car jack. You can use the jack that comes with the car but that is highly ill-advise. You don't want to get under a car with a jack. That's why a ramp is much better. Rhino ramp is a good start.
2. If you go with jacks, get a jack stand as well.
3. A socket set. Some oil pan bolt may be as big as 19mm.
4. An oil filter rachet. It's likely that the oil filter will be too tight if the last oil change was not done by you. If you can get access with both hands, a piece of sand paper may do the trick.
5. A pan to catch the oil from the oil pan. Pepboys sell these for about $10.
6. A funnel, if you are not good pooring the new oil.

As you can see, the prices starts to add up.

If you are not mechanically incline, disgregard everything above and take it to a place and pay to have it done.

bobman1235

vlam wrote: »

1. ramp or car jack. You can use the jack that comes with the car but that is highly ill-advise. You don't want to get under a car with a jack. That's why a ramp is much better. Rhino ramp is a good start.
2. If you go with jacks, get a jack stand as well.

Good advice. My uncle had a car fall on him after it slipped off a jack. Also don't forget to chock the wheels.

4. An oil filter ratchet. It's likely that the oil filter will be too tight if the last oil change was not done by you. If you can get access with both hands, a piece of sand paper may do the trick.

Using an oil filter ratchet to get an oil filter OFF is a fine thing, just don't use it to get one ON; oil filters are supposed to be hand tightened (assuming you're not a complete weakling)

vlam

Well, I'd say the Polk Audio forum is not the place to learn. I don't go to the Volkwagen forum asking about home theater.

We can give advice, but if you are really looking for soild info try a Nissan or auto forum. Just my .02c

I totally agree! The best way to learn is to watch someone change the oil on their or your car the first time. This is how you learn when it comes to working on cars.

I change brakes for friends and I would have him change the other side once he sees how I did the first side. This gives him the opportunity to decide whether he want to invest $ into the tools and do it himself in the future.

BTW.. appdv: If you live in SJ.. stop right by.. The garage is open all year round.

SteveFord

Good idea not to switch over at high mileage.
To recap:
Drive around 15 miles or so
Remove oil filler cap
Remove sump drain
Remove oil filter
Dump 4 oz. of new oil into filter
Smear a drop or two of oil around rubber sealing gasket on filter
Clean filter mating surface
Hand tighten filter then tighten to 100 in/lbs (1/4 - 1/3 turn) after hand tight
Clean drain bolt and mating surface
Install drain plug with new crush washer, torque to spec
Dump in new oil
Wipe hands on annoying bystander
Check level, go for short dirve, recheck oil level

Make SURE you locate the correct drain bolt before you get too carried away.

strider

appadv wrote: »

It's a small leak though, the difference barely registers on the dipstick reading (it's always at full everytime I check) - should I be concerned about switching to synthetic?

If you haven't been using synthetic in the past, you don't want to make the switch now. Some people are very vocal in switching back and forth between real dino oil and synthetic, it doesn't concern me that much. Just be sure to top off with whatever's in the crankcase ( i.e. don't top off an engine that has synthetic in it with regular oil). The biggest thing you'll notice switching to synthetic now is that it will find every possible place it can leak from.

1/8 to 1/4 quart between oil changes is nothing to worry about. You'd be surprised what some manufacturers deem to be an acceptable amount of oil to lose every 1k miles.


Damn, this thread got popular. What those guys said /\

Serendipity

There is a wrong drain bolt?

I only see two, one is for oil, and the other for trans fluid.

thsmith

There is varing opinions and expereice for both sides. If your engine is in good shape and has freq oil changes then go for it. But fix the leak first if it is leaving its mark in the driveway.

One thing to consider about Syn, if you drive mostly short distances I would not go Syn becuase it is prone to sludge just like Dino oil. Syn allows you to extend oil changes but would not be a benifit if you drive short distances mostly as you should change your oil at 1200 to 1500 miles to prevent sludge. Syn is too expensive to change that freqently.

Have something to collect 5+ qts of oil and merthod for proper dispoal
Have new oil, filter and plug crush gasket
Have right tools
Engine should be up to operating temps before changing, becareful for oil burns and oil filter will be hot. Use gloves
Lube new oil filter gasket and replace
Remove oil filler cap before draining, allows oil to drain quicker
Touque oil plug to right setting or stand the chance of stripping
Fill oil replace oil fill cap
start car and let reach operating temp
check oil and chgeck for leaks at drain plug and filter.
Depose of oil and filter properly.

Most likely will not save money considering what your time is worth but I do as I have trust issues.

Serendipity

Oh yeah thanks for all your help guys!!

vlam

FWIW:

Torque wrench: ~$50 for a decent one.

I also like to refill the new oil container with the old oil and take it back to Pepboys. They usually make me dump it into the recycle container myself if I bring in these 5gal jugs. When I bring them in by the quarts, they just have me leave it on the floor. I am also not too crazy about dispossing the new oil container with the regular recycle.

heiney9

I'm out guys.............this thread is filled with some mis-information and/or huge differences of opinion.

Appadv.......good luck, let us know how it turns out.

H9

P.s. Synthetic oil is NOT prone to sludge!

thsmith

Nice, you leave with exiting message about Syn and sludge and mis-information. Sludge is an issue when a motor is run but never reaches operating temps to burn off condensation. So where does the condensation go ?

I guess you are the expert never mind Syn oil manufactors state the best way to reduce sludge is use Syn and change oil often, same thing can be accomplished with Dino oil.

I guess I am out too;)

Ricardo

Dino is better than Synthetic.

heiney9

Ricardo wrote: »

Dino is better than Synthetic.

You using the same hook Ted is using? :D I didn't think he was done with his

heiney9

thsmith wrote: »

Nice, you leave with exiting message about Syn and sludge and mis-information. Sludge is an issue when a motor is run but never reaches operating temps to burn off condensation. So where does the condensation go ?

I guess you are the expert never mind Syn oil manufactors state the best way to reduce sludge is use Syn and change oil often, same thing can be accomplished with Dino oil.

I guess I am out too;)

Like I said huge difference of opinion. Never said I was an expert but apperently you appointed me one---Thanks

obieone

IIRC, any place that sells motor oil, is required to take back the disposed oil, under federal reg.'s.
Have fun, and remember, once you start, you'd better finsh it:rolleyes:
Me personally, I'd spend the $$$:D Did enough of that crap in my youth:cool:

thsmith

heiney9 wrote: »

Like I said huge difference of opinion. Never said I was an expert but apperently you appointed me one---Thanks

You are welcome !

Fireman32

Also make sure that when you remove the old fileter that all of the old gasket comes off as well. You check just my rubbing your finger along the gasket seat on the engine and make sure its nice and smooth. Then fill up the new filer with fresh oil and rub oil on the gasket and replace.

Also before you drain the oil remove the oil filler cap. If you warm up the engine be very careful you do not want to be burnt by hot oil.

Jstas

Ricardo wrote: »

Synthetic oil will "clean" all the carbon build up in the cylinder, valves, rings......
Some of that carbon might be part of the sealing "material". If that's the case, you'll lose that seal and will start burning oil. I've seen it happen.

Rule of thumb is if you don't switch to synthetic before you hit 10,000 miles (some think 5,000), then don't ever switch.

No, not true. The problem with the seals is simple. Seals soak up oil and expand to fill the void they are sealing. That is how they work.

The reason some OLD (i.e.: 100,000+ miles) see issues with the switch from dino oil to synthetic oil is because the new, synthetic oil, with it's detergents, higher resistance to operational extremes and viscosity breakdown, will wash the old oil and sediment deposits out of the seals and causes them to shrink. The new oil doesn't always fill them up properly and the collapsed portions of the seals leave leak points. That is why seals can leak after changing to synthetic oil.

Otherwise, if you want to use synthetic oil in a car that has been well maintained with dino oil, it's not an issue.



As far as changing oil, if you can't tell the difference between an oil pan and a transmission pan, you really shouldn't be under the car with a wrench. Either get it done or go to Pep Boys or AutoZone or something and pick up a Haynes service manual for your car. It will tell you how to do routine maintenance in addition to major and minor repairs. Another option is to go to AutoZone's website and buy yourself an ALLDATA subscription for your particular car. It's pretty cheap, 20-30 bucks a year. But it is always updated with service bullitens and recalls and such.