RT1000P - schematic / troubleshooting?

kyle_c
kyle_c Posts: 3
edited October 2008 in Troubleshooting
Hello.

I recently picked up a pair of RT1000P speakers secondhand and am very pleased with their sound. However, last week in the middle of a movie, one of the subwoofer amps suddenly stopped working. The main non powered 5.25" speaker and tweeter continue to operate fine, however.

The power light is no longer coming on, and I have only been running these with separate RCA sub cables so far to provide signal to the sub.

How can I go about getting a wiring schematic for the amplifier / backpanel connections for these speakers??

Any suggestions on where to start?

Thank you.
Kyle
Post edited by kyle_c on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,194
    edited September 2008
    If you do a search here, you should find some info on what to check first. I remember doing that myself, some time ago, when I was looking at a pair for sale locally.
    Alea jacta est!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited September 2008
    Welcome to Club Polk. This the right place to post your question. Also you can call Polk's CS line. They are the best when it comes to pleasing customers.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,194
    edited September 2008
    Hmmm. I tried to find some of those posts I read before, but no luck with a quick search. I seem to remember there is a fuse somewhere that you can check to see if it is blown. It isn't necessarily expensive to fix IIRC (unless the amp is blown), so, if you get stuck, follow Ben's advice and contact Polk's excellent C/S.

    For repairs, you can remove and ship the amplifier to them in San Diego (I think) if necessary, or they can ship parts to you (if the problem has been identified, that is, and it's a DIY fix).
    Alea jacta est!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • awe-d-o-file
    awe-d-o-file Posts: 146
    edited September 2008
    "often" the fuse in right underneath the IEC - good luck.


    ET

    System: MF Trivista SACD > Placette passive> CJ passive horizontal bi-amp> MF 2500A(LF) MF2100(HF) > 1.2TL's

    Other: Speltz silver Eichmann IC's & speaker wire, Econotweaks Detail Magnifiers, PS Audio P-300(source), R. Gray 600, Al Sekala's AC R/C filters, R. Gray HT PC's, Oyaide R-1's,WPC-Z , M-1, Herbie's & DIY Isolation
    Room: Qty 7 - 4' tall 18" diam. bass traps, Qty 4 - 4' X 2' X 4" panels. All DIY - man my wife is tolerant!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • kyle_c
    kyle_c Posts: 3
    edited September 2008
    I checked the fuse - unfortunately, it was still good... :(

    I've been in touch with a good guy (can't remember his name right now) at the repair center in San Diego. He's trying to dig up a schematic and provide some quick checks I can do with a multimeter. It was definitely nice calling a number and getting to talk to a knowledgeable person without wading through tons of automated menus. Big thumbs up so far.

    He told me I can get a replacement amp for what seems to be a reasonable price, but seeing as though I only paid $150 for the pair used, I'm hesitant to sink in much more $, especially when the sub in the other speaker still works, and they're only used for an outdoor movie setup that gets used once a month or so.

    I'm kicking around just wiring the 6.5" speaker directly to the high level banana plug inputs, but am concerned about impacting the overall resistance seen by the receiver. Thinking back to physics, it seems that if I wire the two 8 ohm speakers in parallel, this will give me an equivalent resistance of 4 ohms (1/8 + 1/8 = 1/4). If I then place a 4 ohm resistor in series with this combination, the equivalent should be back up to 8 ohms. Is this logic ok or flawed? Just tossing out this idea... Not looking to do anything stupid here, but thought it would be a good place to ask.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • kyle_c
    kyle_c Posts: 3
    edited October 2008
    Spoke with Art Martinez from the SD service center on 9/24, haven't heard back yet. Was expecting either something in the mail or a followup call.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,194
    edited October 2008
    kyle_c wrote: »
    Spoke with Art Martinez from the SD service center on 9/24, haven't heard back yet. Was expecting either something in the mail or a followup call.
    Call or e-mail again, or use the online chat service.
    Alea jacta est!
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter