-- Why LSi Tweeter fried like this? --

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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited August 2008
    It's just a guess but I would assume both tweeters are fried. Just because it doesn't look melted down like the other one doesn't mean its good. In fact I have never seen a bad tweeter change form like that one. Way to go. Thats awesome.:D:p

    Pick up a couple new tweeters. or better yet. Send your speakers to Polk for a check up. That would be your best bet.



    Nick
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    You wouldn't believe that the TECH from both B&K and AudioAdvisor want me to try connect the cable directly from source to Amp while I was having the buzz problem.
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  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited August 2008
    MKZ wrote: »
    You wouldn't believe that the TECH from both B&K and AudioAdvisor want me to try connect the cable directly from source to Amp while I was having the buzz problem.

    Actually, that is not bad advice as long as you turn the power off before moving the cables. I have run my CDP directly to the amps with no pre in the middle. I was experimenting and found the sound to be very sterile without the pre. If I had liked the sound, I would not think twice about running the source directly to amp. It is also a good way to eliminate the pre as a cause of noise.

    Gordon
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  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited August 2008
    to me it seems like it's the amp that fried your tweeter.. with some kind of DC current reaching your speakers.
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited August 2008
    MKZ wrote: »
    I just remembered that I did connected the CD player directly to the Amp with multi-channel out to find out the Pre fault or not after having the loud buzz. I think its play fine that time. Is that why the tweeter got fried?
    There's your answer. That's the same thing as turning the volume all of the way up to test. What you see is the end result of what overdriving your components and clipping will do to a speaker.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited August 2008
    Hawkeye wrote: »
    Actually, that is not bad advice as long as you turn the power off before moving the cables. I have run my CDP directly to the amps with no pre in the middle. I was experimenting and found the sound to be very sterile without the pre. If I had liked the sound, I would not think twice about running the source directly to amp. It is also a good way to eliminate the pre as a cause of noise.
    IF you have a variable out on the CDP.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited August 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    IF you have a variable out on the CDP.



    key word "if",, and then you better know what you are doing,,,even on low volume a cdp direct to an amp may surprise you. Good advice Tom,,, been there done that :)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited August 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    IF you have a variable out on the CDP.

    You're right. I should have clarified that point. I misread the post and thought he had a gain on the CDP which after reading again there is not. That's what I get for posting after a 12 hour shift.

    Gordon
    2 Channel -
    Martin Logan Spire, 2 JL Audio F112 subs
    McIntosh C1000 Controller with Tube pre amp, 2 MC501 amplifiers, MD1K Transport & DAC, MR-88 Tuner
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited August 2008
    I would first and foremost check for DC at the amp outputs. That tweeter got extremely hot; hot enough to deform the diaphragm. Why the fuse or thermistor didn't blow is anyone's guess.

    Are the speakers under warranty? At the very least I'd send them into Polk (the x-overs) and make sure nothing else was damaged. Start with the amp as that has the most potential to do the kind of damage you see.

    I still don't quite get how/why/you hooked and unhooked stuff.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2008
    heiney9 wrote: »
    I would first and foremost check for DC at the amp outputs.
    The series cap in line with the tweet should block any DC sourced from the amp.Another posiblility is that the cap actually shorted allowing low frequencies to leak through.If thats the case it would very quickly overheat and be forced to do some extreme over excursions.:eek:
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    I doubt it was a bad cap if both tweeters no longer work. That must have been a lot of juice going to them! :D
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    Should I send the Amp back for service? I bought LSi7 used here and it showed the sign of that tweeter has been changed by the previous owner.
    I'm thinking about to get new speakers and I really don't want to get fried like this.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    Did you test the amp for DC? There may be nothing wrong with it and the way you "tested" for hum may have done all the damage.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2008
    Face wrote: »
    I doubt it was a bad cap if both tweeters no longer work.
    Nope a bit to coincidental ,I didn't see that part about the other not working.But if he hooked up his CDP directly to his amp as a precaution I would be checking through those crossovers for damaged caps before installing new tweeters.
    I know its a stretch but it may have opened the cap on the side not working and shorted the one with the destroyed tweet?
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
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  • Deadof_knight
    Deadof_knight Posts: 980
    edited August 2008
    hmmmm it looks melted too me TOOOO much heat, that what causes that, from the pic the open connectors are contacting the magnet assembly in any way are they ?
    :cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "

    Denon 3300 Adcom 535 BBe w/sub out 1 pr 4.6s 2 pr of 4 jrs Recent additions Samsung Lns-4095D LCD, Samsung hd-960 DVD, Monster HT-5000 Power center    ,HPSA-1000 18" sealed DiY home sub.:D
    Black Laquer 1.2tl's w/ upgraded x-overs and Tweets BI-Amped with 2 Carver tfm-35's Knukonceptz 10ga cables
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  • Shannon W.
    Shannon W. Posts: 568
    edited August 2008
    Look on the Cross over on the other speaker that looks fine but don't play and see if it looks like this.

    DSC00732.jpg

    DSC00731.jpg

    DSC00730.jpg

    DSC00729.jpg

    This is what happened to a one of my LSi9's. The warranty was out so I re-soldered the broken connection and BINGO my tweeter was playing again. Noting was wrong with the speaker I think it was a poorly soldered joint from the factory. But I fixed it myself and after that I never had a problem after that. (Even when I hook all my LSi's up to my new Sunfire Amp.)
    Shannon
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  • awe-d-o-file
    awe-d-o-file Posts: 146
    edited August 2008
    Roasty toasty........DC from a clipped SS amp will do that.


    ET

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