-- Why LSi Tweeter fried like this? --

MKZ
MKZ Posts: 1,068
edited August 2008 in Troubleshooting
DSC04191.jpg
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited August 2008
    Any idea what was happening when it did it? (playing loudly, just turn the amp on or off, etc.)
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited August 2008
    Good gawd, man! Where are your treble settings?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited August 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Good gawd, man! Where are your treble settings?


    What is a "treble" setting? Is it something like a "tone" control? ;)

    Seriously,,, were you cranking that bad boy when it happened? Receiver?
    Good luck.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited August 2008
    Good lord, looks like one of a pair that was on an ex-girlfriend of mine.
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    I just got my B&K back and try to turn it back on and found like this. It had loud buzzes before. I just want to prevent it from happening again.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    That's impressive.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited August 2008
    Do you know whether this happened before the repair or when you got it back from repair and turned it back on?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    The other one looks good but no sound.

    DSC04192.jpg
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  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited August 2008
    Very upsetting. I hope you get it all figured out!!
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited August 2008
    Most likely from the looks of things the speaker with the good tweeter that has no sound has an unsoldered contact somewhere. Most likely due to an extreme amount of current going thru it, melting the solder.

    Did any noise whatsoever come out of each speaker the moment you hooked all back up and turned it on?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Do you know whether this happened before the repair or when you got it back from repair and turned it back on?

    After repaired. They just update the firmware version nothing more.
    No noises or any other unusual happened after turn it back on.
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  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited August 2008
    Did they per-chance replace an output transistor and bias resistor on your B&K? If yes, potentially pure DC being output to your speakers when the buzzing was occuring.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    Looks like the solder joints are in attached to me.

    DSC04193.jpg

    DSC04194.jpg
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    Airplay355 wrote: »
    Very upsetting. I hope you get it all figured out!!

    It is. I still have some ICs to try it on are waiting.
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited August 2008
    Do you have a multi-meter? If so, disconnect your speakers - turn on your amp (and pre) and see if you are getting DC voltage to the speakers. (although if it was DC, I would expect the woofer to fry before the tweeter, then again - maybe it has)

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-555

    Is that one from Parts Express the same tweeter?
    Polk tweeters are the bulk version of this?
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited August 2008
    How much is a Polk LSi tweeter? Personally - I would go ahead and source the correct replacement. Not having the correct tweeter could hurt resale more than the cost difference, and if anything does not sound right in the future - you will always wonder if it was the tweeters fault. (or at least I would.)

    Hard to look at the outside of anything electronic and know what is really on the inside.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    I just remembered that I did connected the CD player directly to the Amp with multi-channel out to find out the Pre fault or not after having the loud buzz. I think its play fine that time. Is that why the tweeter got fried? I noticed too much gain from Player and had to turn down the volume knob on Amp.

    I preferred the OEM but I saw some members recommending those Parts Express Tweeter for replacement so just wondering.
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited August 2008
    I have heard that the Polk version of the tweeter is a little different than the stock/PE version.

    Good luck with your tweeter, but man is that impressive!
    Jake
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    The Polk LSi Tweeter costs $100/each plus shipping so I can't afford to fry like this as soon as I hook up.

    Is that time to try another speakers?
    I love LSi series especially for those very detailed tweeters. The woofer are not that impressive. IMO.
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  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited August 2008
    dude, you might have a gear issue to figure out before moving to another speaker. I;ve had my LSi's LOUD and never had that problem.

    amp issues, amp clippiung. its distortion of some kind causing that, new speakers wont help, there is an issue up the stream somewhere.
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2008
    MKZ wrote: »
    I just remembered that I did connected the CD player directly to the Amp with multi-channel out to find out the Pre fault or not after having the loud buzz. I think its play fine that time. Is that why the tweeter got fried? I noticed too much gain from Player and had to turn down the volume knob on Amp.
    I have a CDP with adjustable output gain. Running it at full would have definitely destroy something here.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited August 2008
    And now we have "the rest of the story"! Good day!
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited August 2008
    DOH!,

    I missed that part.

    thats could DEFINITLY be it. its alright, I've learned lessons the hard way myself.
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    Sorry, I'm kinda lost here. Which one? the one that Face mentioning?
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  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited August 2008
    Yes! It certainly has the potential to cause that sort of catastrophic damage.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited August 2008
    Do you have a cheap pair of speakers or single drivers that you can hook-up to the amp and see if the same thing happens? A local audio shop also might be able to take a look at the amp for a small price to see if it is the problem. Ruling that in or out would be a huge step forward in this puzzle.
    Jake
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    I have swapping out with my other amp and speaker.
    with other amp, same speaker, no sound from tweeter.
    with other speaker, same amp, it sings.
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  • MKZ
    MKZ Posts: 1,068
    edited August 2008
    dkg999 wrote: »
    Yes! It certainly has the potential to cause that sort of catastrophic damage.

    Thanks. Now I can start changing the tweeters.:)
    I have learned the hard way and never ending.
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  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited August 2008
    Talk about learning an expensive lesson!
    MKZ wrote: »
    I just remembered that I did connected the CD player directly to the Amp with multi-channel out to find out the Pre fault or not after having the loud buzz. I think its play fine that time. Is that why the tweeter got fried? I noticed too much gain from Player and had to turn down the volume knob on Amp.

    I preferred the OEM but I saw some members recommending those Parts Express Tweeter for replacement so just wondering.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
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