Which Dedicated Circuit to Install

kolyan2k

MikeC78 wrote: »

As far as I know, the code in Illinois is that outlets are to be ran with at least #12 wire. So, with your line of thinking, running #14 wire is pure BS!:eek:

BTW, what is BS about using #12 or #10 wire??

I dont know what the code in IL says. but in MA and RI and most likely in NY, the code says ONLY kitchen and dining area must be wired with 12/2 (outlets only, lights with 14/2). The rest of the house gets wired with 14/2, and by code 14/2 is good for up to 8 outlets and/or lights. so pretty much 2 small bedrooms get one 15 AMP circuit for both, and a living room usually gets two circuits, one for lights and one for outlets. 10/2 or 10/3 is used for Dryers, Cooktops, AC Units, Hot Tubs etc. In 10 years i have NOT seen a single outlet wired with #10 cable.

SKsolutions

janmike wrote: »

Thanks SK. The cost is not even a factor. I just want to do what is right so a 20A 12/3 with a good receptacle will be the least that I put in.

Having nothing else on the circuit is more important than the gauge as far as I'm concerned, but bigger can't hurt, and most likely won't help to any discernible level.

There is always an issue of liability when installing anything outside the norm, and insurance companies are getting harder to deal with, so I'd stick with 12/2 or 3 inside the main structure of my house. If you need more juice, add another run of 12 gauge. . . . .and as RT stated, the connections do matter. Hospital, mil spec, is worth the few dollars per outlet as opposed to the .46 cent garbage that Home Despot carries.

Ricardo

20 AMPS, 15 AMPS, 30 AMPS.

I think my next one will be 10 AMPS. I got my Panamax conditioner yesterday with Volts/Amps display and the most I can draw without blowing my ears is 2.3 AMPS.

Enough said.

Edit: with bass heavy music I just saw a peak of 3.0 AMPS. Still, 10 AMPS will do.

kolyan2k

Ricardo wrote: »

20 AMPS, 15 AMPS, 30 AMPS.

I think my next one will be 10 AMPS. I got my Panamax conditioner yesterday with Volts/Amps display and the most I can draw without blowing my ears is 2.3 AMPS.

Enough said.

Edit: with bass heavy music I just saw a peak of 3.0 AMPS. Still, 10 AMPS will do.

most equipment rating give you MAX, so yes, most likely you never get even close to that number. not only that but by electrical code all wires are made to take overload for a curtain period of time (ex. 15amp 14/2 can take a 20-25 amp load for an x number of hours without causing any harm to wiring)

4406bbl

If you are going to do it do it right,run conduit with 2 #10 wires and a ground to 2 breakers,each on a seperate leg in the power panel, wired to 2 spec grade 20 amp outlets. Pick your breaker based on what your equipment needs,15 or 20 amp.This will lower your electric bill as you will balance the load on the panel,and you will be ready for a pair of BIG monoblocks. Mine has been wired this way for 20 years,cost is very little more over romex and #10 wire fits under spec grade outlet screws with no problems,whatever you do do not use quick wire outlets for anything as they are trash.

janmike

I have purchased an Oyaide R1 outlet and the rest is up to the electrician. I have just told him to put in the best you can for my application.

disneyjoe7

Ricardo wrote: »

20 AMPS, 15 AMPS, 30 AMPS.

I think my next one will be 10 AMPS. I got my Panamax conditioner yesterday with Volts/Amps display and the most I can draw without blowing my ears is 2.3 AMPS.

Enough said.

Edit: with bass heavy music I just saw a peak of 3.0 AMPS. Still, 10 AMPS will do.

I have one of those "Kill a Watt" meters on my stuff, I measured once in 2 channel mode 1680 watts so I believe 10 amps wouldn't do it for me. Wonder if 15 amp is working it. But I need to double check maybe a 20 amp now.

Early B.

kolyan2k wrote: »

12/3 would be a right thing to do. I am sure some people do not even understand, just like in previous threads, but running 10/2 will give you 30AMPs and running 12/3 will actually give you two 20AMP circuits, so you will end up having 40 dedicated AMPs to your HT (this is not by some HT freak, but by the electrical code. install 2-gang box, feed one outlet with black and another with red, ground and white are common)

FWIW -- Running 12/3 as described above is exactly what I've done with my dedicated line. Just get some good quality 20A plugs at the local hardware store and you're done.

In all honesty, I can't claim that my dedicated line improved sound quality. At first, it was different, but once the wire broke in, I couldn't tell a difference.

reeltrouble1

super freak, super freak, super freaky, I am super freak, super freaky.

Yea, my 30 amps lines suck, don't do it.............hehehehehehe

never mind the manufacturer actually recommended them, like Sgt. Shultz, they no nothing and are in conspiracy with the power companies.

RT1--super freak, super freak, I'm super freaky, super freak..........got my groove on beatches.

Fact is 20 amps is plenty for most amps..............

kolyan2k

Early B. wrote: »

FWIW -- Running 12/3 as described above is exactly what I've done with my dedicated line. Just get some good quality 20A plugs at the local hardware store and you're done.

In all honesty, I can't claim that my dedicated line improved sound quality. At first, it was different, but once the wire broke in, I couldn't tell a difference.

just another thing when running 12/3 ...you have to make sure 2 breakers on the electrical panel use 2 different phases. (one breaker right after another would do it)

no comment on sound difference. i personally think (and know) there is none

disneyjoe7

Ted, you Super Freak


But I got to ask if 30 amps circuit breaker with #10 wire to a 15 amp receptacle, would a 40 amps circuit breaker with #8 wire to a 15 amp receptacle work even better?

BTW as anyone replaced there 10/2 copper wire with better wire? Come to think about it does anyone make audiophile romax cable?

reeltrouble1

yes DJ, mostly because ice cream does not have bones. I use those hospital outlets, you know what.........they are Super Freaky.

RT1--Super freak, I'm super freaky. I am also bad, and nationwide, hell, like Jesse I am going International. Hope I can get a ride in his love bucket.

ben62670

One last time, and I am outta here! Use a 3 wire, ans in 12/3, or if you want 10/3. DO NOT RUN TWO SEPARATE WIRES! IE 10/2, or 12/2. You want to share the neutral, and the ground. If the electrician has half a brain he will make sure the two circuits are out of phase. Running the same phase will cause problems. This can easily be tested at the outlet. Take the hot from one circuit, and the hot from another circuit, and it should read 220 volts.

reeltrouble1

frustration is key to fuzzification

Super Freak Super Freak I'm Super Freaky...........

I hope Mike has some nice power installed to run his rather HI-FI gear.

RT1

ShinAce

By the way, hospital outlets are nickel plated to avoid corrosion. They are not designed for the best contact possible.

reeltrouble1

well they grip like a lap dancer draggin you too the couch room by your dingus.

RT1

ShinAce

I love strippers.

Early B.

kolyan2k wrote: »

just another thing when running 12/3 ...you have to make sure 2 breakers on the electrical panel use 2 different phases. (one breaker right after another would do it)

Had mine installed by an electrician, so it's probably correct. Hmmm-- since my dedicated line is running from a subpanel, I wonder if the extra 12 ft. or so of wire from the main breaker panel to the subpanel impacts sound quality?

disneyjoe7

Wire Romex wire as anyone used this audiophile cable in there walls to the receptacle?

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/14230

ben62670

Early B. wrote: »

Had mine installed by an electrician, so it's probably correct. Hmmm-- since my dedicated line is running from a subpanel, I wonder if the extra 12 ft. or so of wire from the main breaker panel to the subpanel impacts sound quality?

It's fine;)

janmike

Thanks for all the help folks. Ok, who here wants a free trip to Yellowknife to inspect this circuit. Fish Fry On!

kolyan2k

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Wire Romex wire as anyone used this audiophile cable in there walls to the receptacle?

http://www.dedicatedaudio.com/inc/sdetail/14230

wow. what a rip off

$11.50 per foot x 250 ft = $2,875

Home Depot

10/3 250 ft coil is $150 or less

disneyjoe7

janmike wrote: »

Thanks for all the help folks. Ok, who here wants a free trip to Yellowknife to inspect this circuit. Fish Fry On!

Mike ,

I'm on it, send a ticket to me let me know when I need to be at the airport.


Steve

disneyjoe7

kolyan2k wrote: »

wow. what a rip off

$11.50 per foot x 250 ft = $2,875

Home Depot

10/3 250 ft coil is $150 or less

Well don't think you need a whole roll, but for an outlet? What 50ft still pricey but is this an upgrade from something like a MagicCord?

kolyan2k

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Well don't think you need a whole roll, but for an outlet? What 50ft still pricey but is this an upgrade from something like a MagicCord?

the only difference in power cables is whether you use Aluminum or Copper. I cant believe you people fall for this 5hit.

disneyjoe7

kolyan2k wrote: »

the only difference in power cables is whether you use Aluminum or Copper. I cant believe you people fall for this 5hit.

Sorry I believe it because I heard it myself. The Magic thing about it is I want to buy one just to take it apart to see why it works.

kolyan2k

the difference in sound quality is as big as ones imagination

janmike

Hmmm - Lamp cord versus MIT. I'll take the MIT's thanks.

kolyan2k

might wanna change the runs from the poles first. they are only aluminum. dont see why one short run from panel will make something better when main is not even copper.

janmike

kolyan2k wrote: »

might wanna change the runs from the poles first. they are only aluminum. dont see why one short run from panel will make something better when main is not even copper.

Thanks for the tip. Good job I know people in the Power Company in this small Northern town. Copper you say.