I'm starting to get pretty ticked off!

mhartman29
mhartman29 Posts: 257
edited January 2008 in Troubleshooting
I sent in the sub from one of my RT3000s for service about 2 months ago since it was buzzing. I pulled it apart per Polk's recommendation, sent it in for service and it was returned promptly. Up until that point everything was fine.

Since then NOTHING has gone properly and I still have not been able to hook my speaker system back up. Essentially, the wire that connects the subs to the speakers themselves became frayed, so I needed to play a game of cat and mouse to get the proper wires sent to me. This process took weeks considering they were 1) sent to the wrong address and I was not notified and 2) I was sent only the lower portion of the wire that I needed. To their credit Polk did sent it 2nd day to try to get it to my promptly, but it shouldn't take this long to fix.

Now after speaking with customer/tech support it sounds like it should be easy to reattach the wire. Of course not. There is a big circular tube directly in front of the speakers themselves so there is NO WAY I can reinsert the wires. I call technical support and all the techs have gone home. I guess they go home "early" on Fridays.

WTF! I've been waiting to get these speakers fixed for 2 months now. I have some brand new Emotiva gear I've been dying to test out and I can't. Now I have to wait for ANOTHER weekend until tech support shows back up.

I've held my tongue long enough. This is BS.

Can anyone on this forum help me? I know where everything is supposed to go, but I can't get to it. Can I detach the speakers from the front so I can plug the wires into the speakers? I'm afraid of damaging the speakers, but I don't think there is any other way.
Emotiva LMC pre/pro
Emotiva LPA amp
Fronts LSI15
Center LSIC
Rears LSI7s
Dual MFW-15s
Oppo 980H
Signal Analog II ICs
Signal Ultra speaker cables
Post edited by mhartman29 on
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Comments

  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited January 2008
    Sounds like Polk CS is trying to help you. Its not a Rubik's cube, start unscrewing stuff. It will take a little time, but you can do it!
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited January 2008
    1st thing. Calm down, "things" happen. Second thing, I have PM'd you my phone # and I will happy to lead you thru what you need to do to get up and running.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited January 2008
    Polk CS is top notch. They speak English, and actually answer the phone. They also need to sleep. Have a little patience. You could go out, and buy nearly any other mass produced speaker and get little, or no tech support. Polk will take good care of you.

    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    1st thing. Calm down, "things" happen. Second thing, I have PM'd you my phone # and I will happy to lead you thru what you need to do to get up and running.

    Could I have your phone number too? I just need someone to talk to.......:o
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,194
    edited January 2008
    You're just a bit unlucky, hartman. So many manufacturers couldn't give a **** about their older product lines, but Polk actually provide real live human support and spare parts when they can (not to mention this forum, where they also participate actively and often). I think that is an achievement in itself these days.

    The unfortunate thing is that your Emotiva combo is already there, and the clock on your "free" trial is ticking, which is probably why you are getting somewhat anxious.
    Alea jacta est!
  • Kex
    Kex Posts: 5,194
    edited January 2008
    Could I have your phone number too? I just need someone to talk to.......:o
    Very cute ...
    Alea jacta est!
  • BaggedLancer
    BaggedLancer Posts: 6,371
    edited January 2008
    Kex wrote: »
    Very cute ...

    Thanks, I know I am.
  • mhartman29
    mhartman29 Posts: 257
    edited January 2008
    Kex, you are exactly right. In fact, my "trial" period with Emotiva has already expired, and I haven't been able to test 'em out yet! Remember how anxious you were around Christmas to try yours out? Imagine my pain. :)

    Many thanks to treitz3 for offering to speak with me over the phone. After speaking briefly with him (my g/f was pulling me out the door to go to a party, so we couldn't talk long) I went ahead and removed the drivers from the cabinet. So, I can now hook the wires up.

    From looking at the wiring schematic it seems the red wire should go on the positive terminal and the green on the negative on the top driver; while the green wire should go on the positive terminal and the black on the negative on the bottom driver. The problem is there isn't any + or - indication on the terminals. This is probably a dumb question, but there is a bit of red paint below one of the terminals on each driver. Does that indicate the + terminal?
    Emotiva LMC pre/pro
    Emotiva LPA amp
    Fronts LSI15
    Center LSIC
    Rears LSI7s
    Dual MFW-15s
    Oppo 980H
    Signal Analog II ICs
    Signal Ultra speaker cables
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited January 2008
    yes, I believe you are correct

    Red = positive
    black = negative
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • mhartman29
    mhartman29 Posts: 257
    edited January 2008
    Any second opinions? If we're wrong, what will happen?:eek:
    Emotiva LMC pre/pro
    Emotiva LPA amp
    Fronts LSI15
    Center LSIC
    Rears LSI7s
    Dual MFW-15s
    Oppo 980H
    Signal Analog II ICs
    Signal Ultra speaker cables
  • miner
    miner Posts: 1,305
    edited January 2008
    Yes, the red dot is for +. I have some RT20Ps that have the same geometry - 2 8" owered subs. red wire to pos sub 1, green wire neg sub 1 to pos sub 2; hook final green wire from crossover to neg sub 2.

    Polk CS is top notch IMHO.
    [
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2008
    It's Polk's fault you can't figure out how to fix your speakers?

    I guess I should blame GM since I don't know how to fix a GM trans, even after they sold me parts.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • rskarvan
    rskarvan Posts: 2,374
    edited January 2008
    I do have to agree... Polk does a piss-poor job in labeling the internal connections of a speaker (and the wires) as either positive or negative.
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,047
    edited January 2008
    It's not that hard to get the schematics. I wouldn't call it piss-poor at all. Just look at the schematics diagram.
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    I called Polk CS, to help me cook a spaghetti and meat balls. After 3 grooling hours on the phone, we finaly got it cooked. But they never told me to use ground chuck instead of regular ground beaf. I'm never calling or relying on them again. Polk CS can stick it....
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • mhartman29
    mhartman29 Posts: 257
    edited January 2008
    LOL @ some of these responses. I was trying to avoid going into the painful details about this whole ordeal, but considering some of the responses maybe I should have!

    In any event, thanks for the help. Hopefully my subs don't blow up, but I'm sure if they do Face will blame it on me and my ignorance... :)
    Emotiva LMC pre/pro
    Emotiva LPA amp
    Fronts LSI15
    Center LSIC
    Rears LSI7s
    Dual MFW-15s
    Oppo 980H
    Signal Analog II ICs
    Signal Ultra speaker cables
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,644
    edited January 2008
    How on earth is it piss poor to label drivers with red paint?

    What else do you need... it spelled out?

    POSITIVE, NEGATIVE -- thats almost saying +/- isnt enough...

    Jesus

    Thats in response to Ron
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • rskarvan
    rskarvan Posts: 2,374
    edited January 2008
    How on earth is it piss poor to label drivers with red paint?

    What else do you need... it spelled out?

    POSITIVE, NEGATIVE -- thats almost saying +/- isnt enough...

    Jesus

    Thats in response to Ron

    When I pulled drivers out of my CRS+... the only marking internally were small tab/big tab... and, black and white wire.

    That's piss poor marking. I'd have no problem with a red-dot... it just wasn't there.
  • mhartman29
    mhartman29 Posts: 257
    edited January 2008
    I got it hooked up! Thanks for the help (and ridicule) guys. :)
    Emotiva LMC pre/pro
    Emotiva LPA amp
    Fronts LSI15
    Center LSIC
    Rears LSI7s
    Dual MFW-15s
    Oppo 980H
    Signal Analog II ICs
    Signal Ultra speaker cables
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2008
    mhartman29 wrote: »
    I got it hooked up! Thanks for the help (and ridicule) guys. :)
    Glad to hear it. Let's now hear your impression on the whole setup.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • rskarvan
    rskarvan Posts: 2,374
    edited January 2008
    Keiko wrote: »
    I'm not a technical wizard but isn't BLACK generally a ground or common wire? (-)
    Armed with that knowledge, what's the issue about marking???
    Simple mechanics, if you pay attention to how the thing is assembled and comes apart.
    Regardless, I've installed/replaced a few speakers in my day and never ran across one that wasn't labled (+ -) in some way or another. You don't need a degree in Rocket Science or need to be a brain Surgeon for something like this. :)

    I agree with you... black is generally a ground wire (negative). Unfortunately, the wizards at Polk audio decided to use black for the positive terminal of their drivers on some SDA Models. If you don't believe me, check out this Polk Schematic attached.

    So, your average rocket scientist or brain surgeon would probably screw this up. Since, Polk Audio chose to use an entirely unconventional wiring scheme. Then, they further complicated matters by not labeling the terminals with either a simple "+" or a red dot.
  • Jed Leland
    Jed Leland Posts: 183
    edited January 2008
    Hello,
    Actually Polk, in their earlier models, adopted the standard house wiring color code. Black is the positive (sometimes called "hot") white is the neutral (also, sometimes called "cold") and green is the ground (I like the term, "earth"). So, in most of the older speakers the internal black wires make the positive connection and the while wire is the ground return. In the case of a speaker that has two bass drivers connected in series, such as the RT3000p, the upper driver's positive terminal is connected the the bass amplifier's red wire. The upper driver's negative terminal has a green wire connected to the lower driver's positive terminal. The lower driver's negative terminal is connected to the amplifier's black wire.
    Jed
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited January 2008
    Glad to hear you are up and running mhartman29, enjoy. One of these days I'd like to get my ears on a set of these bad boys.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    Keiko wrote: »
    Interesting, any audio company that would adopt this color code standard in their production of speakers. Black being positive is backwards from any electrical standard that I've known.


    Any electrical standard??? As a part time electrician, black has always been "Hot". But I could be wireing everything backwards.;)

    We just take for granted , in the 12v world, as black being ground. But in any other application, black is hot.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited January 2008
    Polk NEVER intended for users to repair and/or replace drivers in their speakers. Thus the labeling. In other words, we, the customers, were never ment to get in the guts of our equipment.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited January 2008
    some members are just never happy and need something to complain about.


    Glad to hear your up now.

    RT1
  • mhartman29
    mhartman29 Posts: 257
    edited January 2008
    some members are just never happy and need something to complain about.


    Glad to hear your up now.

    RT1

    Are you referring to me?
    Emotiva LMC pre/pro
    Emotiva LPA amp
    Fronts LSI15
    Center LSIC
    Rears LSI7s
    Dual MFW-15s
    Oppo 980H
    Signal Analog II ICs
    Signal Ultra speaker cables
  • rskarvan
    rskarvan Posts: 2,374
    edited January 2008
    mhartman29 wrote: »
    Are you referring to me?

    I believe he was referring to me. Some people just can't seem to let things go.
  • brijenjas
    brijenjas Posts: 311
    edited January 2008
    Face wrote: »
    Glad to hear it. Let's now hear your impression on the whole setup.

    +1
    How does this setup sound?
  • mhartman29
    mhartman29 Posts: 257
    edited January 2008
    I'm holding off until I can do a full write up, but the short answer is it sounds GREAT! It will be hard (impossible) to do an apples to apples comparison to my old system, since the speakers are the only component that hasn't changed. But, I'm very pleased. In fact, I'm amazed with how much sound and detail are coming out of them.

    I'm glad I didn't give up on them. Lugging those things around for years and never really being happy with them (my fault for not powering them properly), there have been times I wanted to sell and down size my system.
    Emotiva LMC pre/pro
    Emotiva LPA amp
    Fronts LSI15
    Center LSIC
    Rears LSI7s
    Dual MFW-15s
    Oppo 980H
    Signal Analog II ICs
    Signal Ultra speaker cables