My Money Pit

24

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  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited August 2007
    I would think it may be best to start over with that wall / area, so a temp wall stud wise built to support the house on the side of that damaged wall about a 1' away, while the work is done.

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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »
    2x6 for studs, jesus h christ.

    They sure do build them up in Flordia -- but I guess you got to eh...

    Well it should be CBS but right now there is a hurricane on the horizon and all that is between it am me is rotted plywood with a little stucco.:eek:
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,773
    edited August 2007
    Yeah, I would not live in a wooden house in Flordia...

    I'd want a bomb shelter with a pretty picture covering it.
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    I would think it may be best to start over with that wall / area, so a temp wall stud wise built to support the house on the side of that damaged wall about a 1' away, while the work is done.

    I am sure I can't afford that though. Does anyone have any idea what the gamut of repairs could cost? Right now I just have my Jack of All Trades guy and that's it.
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »
    Yeah, I would not live in a wooden house in Flordia...

    I'd want a bomb shelter with a pretty picture covering it.

    If I had known it wasn't CBS I would not have bought it. Thankfully that's the only part of the house that is not but it's the weakest link.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    Cool, you are one step ahead of me. Throw out all of the insulation if you haven't already. If you have a fan(s) to help speed the drying process, by all means please run all that you have, constantly for about three days, or until dry.

    I'd like to ask you a question about picture #5, the photo of the outside. I can't tell exactly, but from what I see, it looks like the window ledge is not angled correctly. It may be a camera/sight (mine) issue, but it looks to me as if the rain water is being run toward the window and not away from the window. Is this the case?

    I will also need to know more detail as to when the last coat of paint was applied to both the exterior and the interior, to the best of your recollection/knowledge. Also, what kind of roofing material are you using and is there a vent, chimney, or anything else protruding from the roof line within 15 feet from the edge of the roof line paralleling where the water damage exposed so far? A picture of the roof top [if obtainable] would help me as well.

    Now, I have to be honest, you may think it's not an issue from up there. I could not blame you, but my experience tells me otherwise. I just want to examine all possible avenues because I have seen so many times where folks have rebuilt before actually finding the source of the leak, only to repair the repair two or three times. That's usually when I get called in.

    That's all the questions I have for now. You are doing fine and are on track to getting the house back to normal. Once we have located the leak, performed some tests and dried the wood out, then we can start working on the smell. That's the easy part.

    I have your back and I will not let you down. Cheer up, it's not all that bad, for I have seen WAY, WAY WAY worse. We'll find the source of the leak, we'll fix it, and then you can go back to enjoying a game of pool whilst listening to good tunes in a pad that don't stink. OK?;)
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • Bill Ayotte
    Bill Ayotte Posts: 1,860
    edited August 2007
    I love the smell of mold in the morning........Smells like my first barracks room. :eek:
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    wingnut4772 wrote:
    Does anyone have any idea what the gamut of repairs could cost?
    Hold on for just a teenie, weenie little bit, please. As soon as we get some more pic's / info. I can give you a "rough" estimate. I don't want to blow smoke up your **** until we know what we are dealing with.

    First goal. Find the leak(s).

    Second goal. Assess the damage.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    Do you have a neighbor that you could borrow a pressure washer from?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • woofiepaws
    woofiepaws Posts: 215
    edited August 2007
    This does ot look too bad. I went through two floods in a house that saw at least three. Lots of rotten stuff and mold but with a little time and some thinking I was able to fix most of it myself.

    I thinK T3 can walk you throught it. Hang in there and don't give up!
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    Thank you so much treitz....

    The sill is angled slightly down so that's ok.

    The roof is new. Over the HT is a flat roof and it was done in March of '06 as well as the the rest of the roof which is shingled (3 tab). That was my first suspicion and the roofing co. checked it and said all was ok. They were the ones who suggested the windows. It has a 10 year warranty though.

    The house was newly painted in 2005.

    The smell is mostly that wet, yucky wood smell with a fine bouquet of mildew (yum) so if that can really go bye bye that will be amazing.:D

    My Handyguy is returning on Friday to drywall but I told him about the rotting wood and he said he would have to look at it. He works for Habitat for Humanity building homes but I don't know the extent of his skill level. He did put in the ceiling and do the HT wiring in that room though.

    Edit:It just rained but I see some standing H2o on the roof. That ugly mess around the window is new sealant of some type.
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    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Do you have a neighbor that you could borrow a pressure washer from?

    I have one.
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    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Hold on for just a teenie, weenie little bit, please. As soon as we get some more pic's / info. I can give you a "rough" estimate. I don't want to blow smoke up your **** until we know what we are dealing with.

    First goal. Find the leak(s).

    Second goal. Assess the damage.

    Thanks. We did the ole' hose at the window bit' and saw that the water was mainly coming in at the center where there is a join of some sort down the middle. This was consistent with each window for damage. The really bad corner may also be suffering from standing water from the outside as it rained today and I noticed that the water just pools up outside that corner after the gutter dumps it.
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    It seems as if you are one step ahead of me every step of the way. Too cool.

    Alright, first off cancel the drywall repair. There is no sense in fixing something that's not repaired. That said, standing water on a pitched roof is red flag number one. The roofing company needs to do what they need to do to correct that issue. If they won't, there are some options that are cost effective, but won't be pretty to the eye and will not be a permanent repair. Try what you can with the roofing company and in the meantime, if you can have another company come and give you an estimate on what it would cost to have no standing water anywhere in that area, it would be helpful to you. Did the roofing company [if you have that info.] offer a warrantee of any sort?

    Now, what I would suggest is to go to Home Depot, or your local hardware store and get a product called caulk remover. Follow the instructions and remove all of the caulk on the outside that the photo you provided shows that has been installed on the lower areas of the windows. This will not be an easy task. It might be, but I'm not betting on it.

    We can take care of that smell in just a couple of days. I'm sorry, but you don't want to do anything about that for now, besides candles, incense or Air Wicks. Trust me, I know that smell, and I know you don't like it. Give it a couple of days and it will be gone forever. K?

    I have one more suspect area that you can help me out with. That is the sliding door. Can you provide pic's of the entire area as to where the door meets the stucco, also the threshold (or the bottom of the sliding doors). I know this may sound ridiculous, but can you provide a pic with the camera as far down to the outside pavement/concrete/tile/whatever directly underneath the threshold?

    Now, as far as the interior paint is concerned. Do you notice a "water mark" anywhere around the window whatsoever? The tell-tale sign would be a brown "ring" [in no particular pattern], if you will that discolors the paint from it's original color. Do you notice a watermark anywhere else within the confines of that wall/adjoining areas?
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • opus
    opus Posts: 1,252
    edited August 2007
    Good job Treitz, you seem to be all over this
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote:
    Did the roofing company [if you have that info.] offer a warrantee of any sort?
    Yes . I have a ten year warranty and I think they will honor it as they came out pretty quickly when I called.
    treitz3 wrote:
    Follow the instructions and remove all of the caulk on the outside that the photo you provided shows that has been installed on the lower areas of the windows. This will not be an easy task. It might be, but I'm not betting on it.
    Handy Guy (fernando) just did this Monday...still do it?
    treitz3 wrote:
    Now, as far as the interior paint is concerned. Do you notice a "water mark" anywhere around the window whatsoever? The tell-tale sign would be a brown "ring" [in no particular pattern], if you will that discolors the paint from it's original color. Do you notice a watermark anywhere else within the confines of that wall/adjoining areas?
    No.I haven't. I will look outside tomorrow to see but I forgot to tell you the whole house was repainted about 18 months ago or so.


    Here are some more door pics. A huge culprit I have no doubt from the damage.
    treitz3 wrote:
    That said, standing water on a pitched roof is red flag number one. The roofing company needs to do what they need to do to correct that issue.
    The roof over the HT is a flat roof but I am guessing standing water is still a no-no.....right?
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    Have the roofing company honor the warrantee. No standing water, period.
    Handy guy....yes, have him remove the silicone.
    18 mos? That's a good sign...damn good sign.

    Now, for the threshold. Can you see underneath it? You'll have to wait for tomorrow to see in the daylight, but just for **** and giggles, try taking a flat head screwdriver and see if you can "poke" a hole all the way thru to the inside. Try this every 1/4" or so, at different angles. Try it like your life depended on it.

    Can you lift the threshold up from the outside? If so, how much does it move up and down?

    As for the gutter outlet, go get a product that channels the rain AWAY from the foundation, no matter what product it is.

    Just out of curiosity, is your house on that side lower than the yard? Don't panic, just curious.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • cheddar
    cheddar Posts: 2,390
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    As for the gutter outlet, go get a product that channels the rain AWAY from the foundation, no matter what product it is.

    Plastic extenders can be used to get the water as far away from the corner as you need to. Downspouts that just dump into a pool of water at your foundation are trouble, especially when it's so easy to fix.
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote:
    Just out of curiosity, is your house on that side lower than the yard? Don't panic, just curious.
    Actually yes. I think so.(panic)
    treitz3 wrote:
    Now, for the threshold. Can you see underneath it? You'll have to wait for tomorrow to see in the daylight, but just for **** and giggles, try taking a flat head screwdriver and see if you can "poke" a hole all the way thru to the inside. Try this every 1/4" or so, at different angles. Try it like your life depended on it.

    No. I can't see all the way through. there is a seal on the inside. I can insert a metal ruler under it about 5 inches in two spots towards the middle but the rest is sealed.(on the outside) Something stops it from poking through to the inside. The threshhold will raise about 1/4 inch or so if I pry - in those spots .
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    OK, the sliding door is an issue, but one that can wait. Plan your finances in the future not on replacing the door, but having someone who knows WTF they are doing remove the entire lower assembly of the door frame [if possible], repairing the substrate that the threshold is mounted to, sealing and re-installing.

    Don't panic. Let's take a look at what you have around that side of the house. Provide us with a pic of that wall and corners, concentrating on the ground and where it meets the foundation.

    As Mr. Bob Marley would say........."Don't worry, be happy".;) :)
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    wingnut4772 wrote:
    Something stops it from poking through to the inside.
    Hold on, from that pic I take it that you are taking the ruler and poking the ruler to the outside? 5 inches?:eek:
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Hold on, from that pic I take it that you are taking the ruler and poking the ruler to the outside? 5 inches?:eek:

    No. From the outside to the inside. Ha that would be a severe :eek:

    I do think that we might want to get new windows if we do this and maybe a new door if we can swing it ...depending on how much that can be. At least the windows. Some don't even open because the latches have snapped off.

    I will take pics of that wall in the daylight. The main thing I noticed is that the further away from the problem window spots and the door...the dryer things are. Do I have to remove the rest of the drywall..if I see it's looking dry?
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    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
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  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited August 2007
    Just from reading this thread, it makes me happy to be apart of the crew. Hope you get everything worked out Darla and get back to the HT/Audio enjoyment side of things. Treitz, excellent support in helping her out, you seem to be very experienced and know what youre dealing with for sure. Hats off to both of you for teamwork and getting this done. If donations are needed to get Darla on track, I'm in.
    Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!

    Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580
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  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited August 2007
    put extensions on the gutter downpipes, you can get them at Home Depot for cheap.
    Never Forget
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    wingnut4772 wrote:
    Do I have to remove the rest of the drywall?
    No ma'am. Go to bed. Get some sleep. Relax. It will all be OK. Besides, I'm relying on you to be sharp minded......not sleep deprived and worried.

    All of the interior demolition is done from what I can see. The only exception would be if you replaced the doors and windows.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    treitz3 wrote: »
    No ma'am. Go to bed. Get some sleep. Relax. It will all be OK. Besides, I'm relying on you to be sharp minded......not sleep deprived and worried.

    All of the interior demolition is done from what I can see. The only exception would be if you replaced the doors and windows.

    Phew!!!! I am so relieved. Allthough I will admit that putting a hammer through the wall was kinda fun.
    sherardp wrote:
    Just from reading this thread, it makes me happy to be apart of the crew. Hope you get everything worked out Darla and get back to the HT/Audio enjoyment side of things. Treitz, excellent support in helping her out, you seem to be very experienced and know what youre dealing with for sure. Hats off to both of you for teamwork and getting this done

    That's what makes Club Polk so great. I am really happy to be a part of such a great group of helpful people. Thanks:)

    And What the hell! Since I am tearing things up maybe I'll get Fernando to put another 20 amp dedicated circuit for the HT to give me something to look forward to when this mess is all done...how's that for hope?:D
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  • Bill Ayotte
    Bill Ayotte Posts: 1,860
    edited August 2007
    wingnut4772 wrote: »
    Phew!!!! I am so relieved. Allthough I will admit that putting a hammer through the wall was kinda fun.
    Yes it is, and after the night I have had, I was really considering it just now......

    wingnut4772 wrote: »
    And What the hell! Since I am tearing things up maybe I'll get Fernando to put another 20 amp dedicated circuit for the HT to give me something to look forward to when this mess is all done...how's that for hope?:D

    Might as well, the wall is already torn apart....Assuming that the rest of the fun there doesn't set you back too much...
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited August 2007
    By the way Darla, you can give props to Mr. Bill Ayotte for linking me to this. I normally do not read [most of the time] threads like this that are non-audio related, but he actually caught me on another forum and directed me to your issues. FYI
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited August 2007
    Might as well, the wall is already torn apart....Assuming that the rest of the fun there doesn't set you back too much...

    Anything right now is too much but what's an extra hundred or two at this point? Actually I am dreaming out loud....I am going to have to scramble to figure this one out financially....but I am sure I will. Did someone say Ebay?:D
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    Squeezebox Touch

    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
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  • Bill Ayotte
    Bill Ayotte Posts: 1,860
    edited August 2007
    wingnut4772 wrote: »
    Anything right now is too much but what's an extra hundred or two at this point? Actually I am dreaming out loud....I am going to have to scramble to figure this one out financially....but I am sure I will. Did someone say Ebay?:D

    I just did the same thing (ebay) need cash in a hurry.....My situation is all kinds of fed up....
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