RT1000p SUB amp problem

michaelbedford
michaelbedford Posts: 6
edited July 2002 in Troubleshooting
One of of my 2 RT1000p's has a hum coming out of the sub woofer amp. I believe has any had this problem and know what to do about it? I take it the amplifier is bad and probably need a new one. How do I get this particular part? Is this something I can replace myself?

Thanks,
Mike
Post edited by michaelbedford on
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  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,194
    edited July 2002
    You can replace yourself.If it's humming,check your wiring before you order a new one.you might be picking up interference.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
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  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited July 2002
    How old is it? If it is defective it may still be under warranty

    Lee Harvey
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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  • michaelbedford
    michaelbedford Posts: 6
    edited July 2002
    Its not my wiring I can completely unplug all the wiring and it still makes the humming noise. I can't seem to find the part for it in the part list. Anyone know what the part would be for the amp board?

    Also I think its over 3 years old which I believe I read the warranty only covers 3 years on the amps.

    Thanks for your help everyone.
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  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,194
    edited July 2002
    Do you have it plugged straight into the wall or into a surge/line protector with a good ground?You could very well have a bad or going bad amp but Id troubleshoot everything else that could cause it to hum before you put effort into replacing it.
    Most amps hum do to a poor ground.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
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  • michaelbedford
    michaelbedford Posts: 6
    edited July 2002
    I have a surge protector on it. Can't remember the model but it has one of those $50,000 guarantees on it. Its plugged into the same surge protector as the right speaker of the same model which does not hum. I haven't taken this bad boy apart yet to see what parts are in it, but I assume its a whole package replacement part or something. I can't even find RT1000p's in the "Service and Parts" section of this website.

    Thanks again for the help.
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  • michaelbedford
    michaelbedford Posts: 6
    edited July 2002
    By the way it hums super loud! Not like a bad ground loud that I've heard before. It hums so loud I can't hear anything else till I unplug it from the wall, then just the upper driver is working, which is still doing well. Also I noticed some kind of click sounds in between the humming, I'm not sure but it kind of sounds like the Auto-Relay mechanism I'm used to hearing once bass kicks in to auto turn on the sub woofer. In other words "hummmm pop pop hummmmm pop hummmmmm".

    Thanks,
    Mike
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  • OrangeToupee
    OrangeToupee Posts: 488
    edited July 2002
    Now that's a powered tower, correct? I would think bi-wiring it should solve that problem. Mantis, you a little slow on the draw tonight?

    Sorry, Michael, just ignore that ... I hope you get this thing fixed.
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  • sgtgto
    sgtgto Posts: 310
    edited July 2002
    Hi:

    I believe you have a bad amp. Call Ken at Polk and he can tell you what to do. The amp is in a package deal, binding posts and all. Unscrew the plate and the whole works comes out. All you have to do is unplug it and it will separate from the cabinet.


    Gary
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited July 2002
    Hello Mike,
    I'm sorry you're having a problem with your RT1000p, but I'm sure we can be of help. The best thing to do is to remove the amplifier and send to Polk Audio, 2550 Britannia Blvd., Suite D, San Diego, CA. 92154. Please include a short note giving us your name and address and a daytime telephone number as well as a copy of your sales receipt. To remove the bass amplifier you would first unplug the AC power cord (I know everyone would do that automatically, but I always mention it, to be safe). Then there will be twelve Philips head screws going around the circumference of the amplifier plate (three on a side) and when removed you can pull the entire amplifier out of the speaker's cabinet. There will be two wires leading to the internal 6.5" bass driver which easily disconnect from the driver's terminals. There will also be a pair of wires leading to the upper crossover network which can be unplugged from the amplifier's circuit board. Then the remaining connection will be the front mounted LED wires which also disconnect from the amplifier. If you have any questions please telephone me at 1-800-377-7655 extension 891 or email at kswauger@polkaudio.com. The service department will very quickly determine the best way to get your speaker working perfectly again.
    Regards, Ken Swauger
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  • michaelbedford
    michaelbedford Posts: 6
    edited July 2002
    Ok I got the amplifier out and unforunately I didn't notice the loc-tite or whatever it is the nuts on the speaker terminal posts. That and the fact that bolts are made out of some severely brittle metal probably a gold mixture of some kind caused me to break the bolts with little effort at all (I swear I used like no torque at all). So I guess I need some new posts also.

    I also did find my reciept which I will be sending along I purchased them on 3/28/98.

    I must say these are the best sounding speakers I've ever owned and my friends are jealous so I hope I can get them back up and running again quickly.

    Thanks,
    Michael Bedford
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