Need help on Harmon Kardon avr 7200

SOUNDMASTER5158

My HK went out no power what so ever.

I tried the regular reseting the unit and that did not work.

I also tried the hard reset where I press the surround mode button and the tuner button at the same time and still nothing this unit should be working great it is only about 2 years old and I have it protected by a surge protector threw monster and so on .

If anyone out their has any other suggestions like should it be left unpluged for longer or some other reset option anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance:cool:

danger boy

my suggestion.. contact HK.. it's theirs, they should know how to solve your problem.

good luck

masanz1

probably a fuse inside. if it is under warranty take it in to have it fixed, if not check the fuses inside. I am not sure about HK however

Dennis Gardner

Just a shot in the dark, but there are 2 power buttons................standby and total power on/off.

Sami

Same thing happened to my 7200 recently, just barely outside warranty. I checked the fuses and everyone of them seemed to be ok. Took out multi-meter and started troubleshooting...turns out it's a fuse afterall. Couldn't see it but resistance showed 1 Ohm (should be 0) so the fuse was broken. Open it up and check the power board first (it's the small board in middle front top).

SOUNDMASTER5158

Sami wrote:

Same thing happened to my 7200 recently, just barely outside warranty. I checked the fuses and everyone of them seemed to be ok. Took out multi-meter and started troubleshooting...turns out it's a fuse afterall. Couldn't see it but resistance showed 1 Ohm (should be 0) so the fuse was broken. Open it up and check the power board first (it's the small board in middle front top).

So were you able to fix it on your own if so could you please tell me how you did it. is the fuse accesable to change or does it take a tech to fix it. how did you get the parts how much were the parts.:)

tyia
eric

SOUNDMASTER5158

this is the picture of the inside of my HK 7200 I found three fuses first one I found is from left to right

1st I found by my main power coupling

2nd I found on top of my circuit board in the middle up front

3rd I found in on the same board but closer to the front of the unit.
the blurry picture is the one by my main coupling.

Is this what SAMI was talking about I do not see any other fuses.

thank you
eric

Sami

The last picture, that's where I replaced a fuse and it's working great now.

It was the 500mA/250V one which is at the bottom on the picture, the lone one. Got replacement from Home Depot, 500mA/250V fast acting fuse. Not the exact same fuse but as long as it is fast acting I don't see a danger to it.

If you can't see if the fuses are broken, get a multimeter (won't cost much and will come handy) if you don't already own one. You can check the fuses by measuring resistance (ohms), if the fuse is ok it will have hardly any resistance and multimeter will display 0 but if it is broken it will not pass electricity and you get 1 on the display (same as air).

http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Testing_Appliance_Fuses-Miscellaneous-F2232.html

If the fuses are ok you can still pinpoint the broken board/component by measuring voltage.

SOUNDMASTER5158

Sami wrote:

The last picture, that's where I replaced a fuse and it's working great now.

It was the 500mA/250V one which is at the bottom on the picture, the lone one. Got replacement from Home Depot, 500mA/250V fast acting fuse. Not the exact same fuse but as long as it is fast acting I don't see a danger to it.

If you can't see if the fuses are broken, get a multimeter (won't cost much and will come handy) if you don't already own one. You can check the fuses by measuring resistance (ohms), if the fuse is ok it will have hardly any resistance and multimeter will display 0 but if it is broken it will not pass electricity and you get 1 on the display (same as air).

http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Testing_Appliance_Fuses-Miscellaneous-F2232.html

If the fuses are ok you can still pinpoint the broken board/component by measuring voltage.

Thank You very much Sami I took out five fuses and the one you said was bad so I went to radio shack and replaced all five fuses I just got home so I have no idea if this is going to work but the one you said that was bad on yours was bad on mine so I figured why not replace them all while I have this thing apart and open.

Thank you again
thank you to all the members out here if it was not for all your help and for polks website forum I probably never would have tried this.

Eric

mrbigbluelight

Take an extra $20 from the cash drawer before you lock up !!

Looking at that last picture, I think I spot some pico fuses on the top left of that same board, too.

Pico fuses look kind of like a 1/4 watt resistor.

They won't be soldered to the board, the leads slip into mounts (to allow easy removal). Pico fuses are used to protect modules from overvoltage during a power supply failure.

The picos I'm familiar with are used on communications lines to PLC's.
They blow at milliamps, not infrequently, when lightning strikes nearby (at least around here they do).

Now something I didn't know was that pico fuses come in large amperages, too. Looks like you can get them up to 10 amps !!!

Any-who, the EXCELLENT assistance from Sami should solve your problem.
If it doesn't, have a look-see at those (possible) pico fuses.

NOTE: UNPLUG THE POWER CORD FROM THE OUTLET BEFORE MESSING WITH STUFF. ALWAYS.

SOUNDMASTER5158

thank You All So Much Everything Is Up And Running And Disturbing My Neighbors As Normal. But I Am Glad They All Like The Music I Normally Play.

Thanks Again Polkabies Your The Greatest.
Eric

camajo

I dug up this old thread after coming home from a week long vacation only to find my HK AVR7200 dead. No power.. no lights... nothing.

I replaced the same fuse you guys mentioned and presto! Its back in action! Decided to bring this post back from the dead just to say thanks if any of these guys are still around.

engtaz

Good to hear your back up and running. That's one of the good things about this forum.

Sami

It seems to be the most common thing that goes bad with these receivers. It's a good feeling when you discover it's only a fuse you can replace yourself, isn't it!

disneyjoe7

Not sure just what that fuse does in the circuit, but if some people have an issue with it I wonder if 500ma is a bit small.

AntiGravityHero

I stumbled across this thread after finding my own 7200 dead one morning.

My fuse "F453", the 500ma/250v one that seems to blow often, was in fact blown.

However, I noticed another very important detail - capacitor C498 (the light blue 1000uf, 25v unit on the bottom right side of the board) had a bulging top and was leaking some electrolyte.

The capacitor is made by "Lelon". These same capacitors have been an issue in many PC motherboards and other electronics. I am guessing that a gradual failure of this cap is causing the blown fuse and eventual total failure of the supply board.

Check your capacitors, especially C498! I am going to replace mine before putting in a new fuse.

Shark

AntiGravityHero wrote: »

I stumbled across this thread after finding my own 7200 dead one morning.

My fuse "F453", the 500ma/250v one that seems to blow often, was in fact blown.

However, I noticed another very important detail - capacitor C498 (the light blue 1000uf, 25v unit on the bottom right side of the board) had a bulging top and was leaking some electrolyte.

The capacitor is made by "Lelon". These same capacitors have been an issue in many PC motherboards and other electronics. I am guessing that a gradual failure of this cap is causing the blown fuse and eventual total failure of the supply board.

Check your capacitors, especially C498! I am going to replace mine before putting in a new fuse.

Exactly the same issue here.
Came home last week & no lights, no power, just dead.

Opened it up tonight & the same fuse is blown, as well as some black stuff at the bottom the same capacitor.
Will replace the parts tomorrow & let you guys know if it fixes the issue.

Good post though, without this info, I would have likely sent it away for a costly repair bill.

PSOVLSK

I wonder if this is all that was wrong with my 7200. I didn't come across this thread like some of you, but instead took it to Fry's for repairs. They kept it a couple of months but said they couldn't fix it and tried to replace it with a 625. After much discussion about the what would be an "equal" replacement, I finally walked out with a new 7300.

Shark

Update, good news!!

I had 2 caps that were leaking on the power supply board, the one listed above, a 1000uF, and the larger one in the middle of the board, a 4700uF.

Replaced them both, & the open fuse, & back in business!

Thanks guys

sbenson

looks like I'm in the same boat.

SpartanGA

I love this thread!

My 7200 did this same thing. I hope the fuse is the issue. The fuse in question is the only fuse that is covered with a white sticker/paper of some sort that doesnt allow me to see inside. The others were obviously intact, so I am leaving those.

I also have the black electrolyte from those capicators. How did you replace them? I can buy the same at Radio Shack or Frys, but did you remove the board from the receiver and have to unsolder and resolder them? I havent removed the board to take a peek, so thought I would ask first.

thx!

SpartanGA

for some reason I cannot edit my above post. I was incorrect in that post. The fuse with the paper covering is the 240V 15A fuse...the longest fuse. I finally pulled all five fuses and one by one they were showing continuity. I was getting worried. Then the last was the 240V 500mA fuse, BAM...it is shorted.

'dance dance dance'

ViperZ

SpartanGA wrote: »

Then the last was the 240V 500mA fuse, BAM...it is shorted.

'dance dance dance'

You mean opened, not shorted. "shorted" fuse is a good fuse, since it's just a "wire".

SpartanGA

ViperZ wrote: »

You mean opened, not shorted. "shorted" fuse is a good fuse, since it's just a "wire".

yes, correct. ZERO continuity.

ViperZ

SpartanGA wrote: »

yes, correct. ZERO continuity.

You mean zero resistance... sorry, being an electrical engineer, couldn't hold.

Testing for continuity across that component (in your case) means checking that there is a connection present between your test probes.

Sami

ViperZ wrote: »

You mean zero resistance... sorry, being an electrical engineer, couldn't hold.

0 resistance on a fuse would mean it is good, no?

disneyjoe7

Huh,?

Zero Resistance on a fuse is good.

Sami

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

Huh,?

Zero Resistance on a fuse is good.

Yes. 0 resistance = good. 0 continuity = bad. Maybe Viper thought he was talking about a good fuse, not a bad one?

SpartanGA

Sami wrote: »

Yes. 0 resistance = good. 0 continuity = bad. Maybe Viper thought he was talking about a good fuse, not a bad one?

No idea. But I checked the fuse for continuity...and since I didnt get any, the fuse was bad.

Has anyone here replaced the capacitors that are leaking on the same top board as most of the fuses? There is a 1000uf little blue one and 4700uf taller black one. both have some black 'goo' (electrolyte?) leaking out the bottom...could this be causing the fuse to blow?

If you did, how did you do it? e.g., did u remove the board and unsolder, then resolder replacements and where do u get the replacements etc. Radio shack didnt carry this exact voltage and capacitance.

thx

ViperZ

SpartanGA wrote: »

No idea. But I checked the fuse for continuity...and since I didnt get any, the fuse was bad.

Has anyone here replaced the capacitors that are leaking on the same top board as most of the fuses? There is a 1000uf little blue one and 4700uf taller black one. both have some black 'goo' (electrolyte?) leaking out the bottom...could this be causing the fuse to blow?

If you did, how did you do it? e.g., did u remove the board and unsolder, then resolder replacements and where do u get the replacements etc. Radio shack didnt carry this exact voltage and capacitance.

thx

Yeah, sorry, I guess replying while sitting on the overnight shift sux . No continuity means bad on a fuse .

Regarding leaking electrolytic caps, you definitely have to replace those.
The replacement caps can be found on www.digikey.com or www.mouser.com or any other online parts shop. A few notes:
- electrolytic caps are rated by capacitance and voltage. You can get higher voltage (but same capacitance) caps for better reliability, but make sure that those will physically fit on your board.
- make sure to maintain correct polarity when installing the electrolytic caps. "-" is usually marked on the board. Otherwise, just check where "-" terminal of the old capacitor was (marked on the cap).
- to remove the caps, check if you have clean access to the bottom of the board. If you don't, then you'll need to remove the board (usually you don't have to though). Desolder the caps. Clean the board from the electrolyte. Alcohol will do the trick. Then solder the new caps.

camajo

Well, after a blown fuse a year and a half ago my HK is out of commission again. Doesn't appear to be the fuse this time.

I get a new behaviour. Power on makes the lcd screen light up for a split second and then the unit shuts down.

I arleady tried to reset to system defaults as mentioned in other posts and it does no good.

I opened the receiver up for the heck of it and I notice some black "goo" which i'm assuming is the leaky electrolyte others have mentioned.

Any chance replacing the capacitors where i find the electrolyte will likely do the trick or do I maybe have bigger problems?