Interconnects and Speaker Wire
audiobliss
Posts: 12,518
I was sitting here thinking about my system, how I'm soon to get a CDP, and then hopefully I'll be able to add an ELP to my system. Besides placement, I was trying to think of what's next. That would leave IC's and speaker wire.
I don't want to pay out the yazoo for connections, but I do want to have something a bit above Radio Shack quality. I think I could afford some of the Signal Cable stuff, and since he's affiliated with the forum, I'd like to buy some from him.
What's the more important? Speaker wire and jumpers or interconnects or power cables? In other words, what should I invest in first? Of course, I won't actually invest in either until I get my CDP and a preamp, but I got to wondering about this today.
Thanks!
EDIT - Added power cables to the mix. Completely forgot about them.
I don't want to pay out the yazoo for connections, but I do want to have something a bit above Radio Shack quality. I think I could afford some of the Signal Cable stuff, and since he's affiliated with the forum, I'd like to buy some from him.
What's the more important? Speaker wire and jumpers or interconnects or power cables? In other words, what should I invest in first? Of course, I won't actually invest in either until I get my CDP and a preamp, but I got to wondering about this today.
Thanks!
EDIT - Added power cables to the mix. Completely forgot about them.
In UseGeorge Grand wrote: »
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Post edited by audiobliss on
Comments
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Based on my experience, I would say speaker wire has made more of a difference than ICs.
Check out Raymond Cable too. Its a small setup out of Washington State. Dangerboy and I use them and we have both been pretty happy with the results. -
To me ICs make the most difference in sound. YMMV
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I would start with matching Speaker wire and IC from the same vendor, so you get the benefit of synergy. And then Power cable, next. again, from the same vendor. Signal Cable is a good vendor to start with.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
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I would say the connect between the source and the pre would be a good place to start.
RT1 -
reeltrouble1 wrote:I would say the connect between the source and the pre would be a good place to start.
RT1Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
After a number of years tweaking with various cables, I think the answer is...where do you want to tweak? Do you want to hear your speaker wire or your interconnects or perhaps both? I think a good way to do it is to pick one. And with the other pick a very neutral cable, perhaps a Carda's, then play around with the other part. Both the speaker wire and interconnects can alter (not always for the better) the sound of your system. How much you want to change the tone of your system is entirely up to you. I would recommend taking the approach I've layed out.
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If you like I will put your name on some Signal Analog One I have around here someplace.
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Upgrade your speaker wires to Audioquest type4. Very good sound. There are 4 conductors in each wire. One set is labeled "bass" and the other "treble". Bi-wire your RF's with them. After going with AQ, I don't think I can go back to stranded wires again. Those solid copper conductors sound so clean and accurate.
The best part about AQ's Type4 is the low price! Anyone can enjoy it.
For the IC's, there's too many to choose from. I'd recommend AQ again because I have great success with the "Diamondback" but it is a little pricey. I'm sure they have cheaper IC's. Keep in mind that if you feel your system is too bright, you may not enjoy the Diamonbacks. They're not bright. They're neutral, detailed and accurate. But I can see people not liking it if they're trying to get more warmth. -
IC's between the source and pre; or between a dac, source and pre, as long as you have decent quality speaker wire. If you are using something like lamp cord for speaker wire, I'd say address both, IC's and speaker cable.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Just buy single crystal copper insulated with human skin....they are the best.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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dorokusai wrote:Just buy single crystal copper insulated with human skin....they are the best.
No way! Snake skin is better. Less capacitance/inductance than human skin. The scales act as a shield too! -
I don't really care what it's wrapped in, just so long as it's floating in snake oil so it doesn't directly contact the insulation.
Thanks for all the advice, guys. I'm thinking IC's will be first, followed closely by some speaker wire. I'm thinking about Signal Cable Classic Bi-Wire speaker cable with the AP Spades on both amp and speaker end termination. That should come up to be $157 for 12' for biwiring with the upgrade termination for both speakers. I must say, that's not too bad.George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
If you don't plan to swap cables regularly, go bare. Spades/bananas are there to make your life easier when swapping.
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Oh, and isn't there some kind of a CP discount? What's that good for?George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
I think the CP discount is expired now. Can somebody confirm this?
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Hmm. I'm not sure, but I'm thinking I wouldn't like going bare.George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
Going bare gives you less stuff in the signal path. Easier to cut and strip new ends when the cables get oxydized.
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Alligator skin as insulation is not only fashionable, but it sounds good too! Copper wrapped in Alligator skin, can't go wrong with that combo.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
The SC discount has always been in effect.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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reeltrouble1 wrote:I would say the connect between the source and the pre would be a good place to start.
RT1
I most humbly disagree. Might be a good place to start.. but the place for the most difference is between the pre and the amp. to me.. all other replaced interconnects just offer minor improvements.
that's my story and i'm sticking to it.PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
dorokusai wrote:The SC discount has always been in effect.
Cool! Gor for it, Bliss. Would be cool to save up and wait until you can get both IC's and speaker wire. The wait is going to kill you but the reward will be worth the time/money. It feels real good to wait and buy several pieces at once:) . -
danger boy wrote:I most humbly disagree. Might be a good place to start.. but the place for the most difference is between the pre and the amp. to me.. all other replaced interconnects just offer minor improvements.
that's my story and i'm sticking to it.
Yes, my good man, but you live in the FOG.
RT1 -
Whatever you do, I'd recommend you don't replace speaker/IC's at the same time. Try whichever wire for a couple weeks before adding another varible into the synergy equation. Never a good idea to change out more than 1 thing at a time--it'll have you chasing your tail big time.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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Yeah, I would like to replace one thing at a time just so I can hear the difference each piece makes to the system.
Thanks for all the suggestions, folks! I think I've decided to go with Signal Cable, and to start with IC's, then speaker wire, then maybe power cords at some point.
Thanks!George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
I should have added, if you replacing IC's, make sure you replace all in the chain from source to power amp...Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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for kicks and giggles, I just orderred a pair of Anticables 7 ft pair speaker wires. 75.00 shipped, supposed to be giant killers to some extent. 75 bucks, eff it, worth a shot.
I'll give a review after I get some time with them down the road.Living Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites -
oh, and I gotta put interconnect between pre and amp before source and pre. not to diminish the connection between source and pre.
at least to my ears.Living Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites -
You gotta use the same interconnects between the source, pre and amp AT THE SAME TIME. Any thing less is redundant and you are not reaping the full benefits of the cables."Just because youre offended doesnt mean youre right." - Ricky Gervais
"For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible." - Stuart Chase
"Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson -
dude, that means I gotta buy another set of nordost solar winds, faaaaaaaaaaak!!!!Living Room 2 Channel -
Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites -
it was put to me this way, either use the same interconnect between source/pre as between pre/amp or use the best interconnect between source/pre since if you are not getting the best signal from your source the best interconnect in the world cannot add it in at the pre/amp end.
check out www.zebracable.comAmplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
Puritan PSM156