The time is rapidly approaching........Sub options please....

exalted512

dont you have some wire to tape together?;)
-Cody

MacLeod

Yes because as we all know, electricity will not flow thru 2 wires spliced together. For that you have to have a cool, shiney, gold plated distribution block. And for even better flow you should get one with neon outlines.

exalted512

i have a distribution block if you want it...free of course...its a brand new one from kicker
-Cody

1996blackmax

exalted512 wrote:

thats a little too much info there...
-Cody

..............................

exalted512 wrote:

dont you have some wire to tape together?
-Cody

This just continues.....

MacLeod wrote:

Yes because as we all know, electricity will not flow thru 2 wires spliced together. For that you have to have a cool, shiney, gold plated distribution block. And for even better flow you should get one with neon outlines.

No you need the silver ones, those work the best . I do agree with the neon thing as it will "persuade" more juice to go through .

MacLeod

exalted512 wrote:

i have a distribution block if you want it...free of course...its a brand new one from kicker
-Cody

Sure! Send it on.

The problem is I dont have anywhere to mount it. Thats the whole problem. Its not that Im being lazy (which I am) its just that Im out of room. My box takes up the entire passenger side underseat area, my amps take the middle and my crossovers take up half the drivers side with my tool box and junk takes up the rest! I have nowhere aesthetic to mount a dist block which is why I opted for the splice job so I could keep em under the carpet and out of sight.

exalted512

PM me youre address and ill get it out next week
-Cody

1996blackmax

MacLeod wrote:

The problem is I dont have anywhere to mount it. Thats the whole problem. Its not that Im being lazy (which I am) its just that Im out of room.

I totally hear you on this Mac. My lagging/lazyness was for something different, but I can relate. It only took me 2 months to put in my DVD player in my car . I installed it inside my glove box. Finally took out that darn VCR. That thing was taking too much room in my trunk, specially since I had in installed hanging from the center of the trunk. It was a pain in the arse around the holidays. Boxes were a pain to put in there. All is well now .

98thumpin

dvd player in the glove box isnt that a little bit overboard, but that might just be my opinion

1996blackmax

Why overboard?

I did not want to put in in the dash, it would attract attention, and it would stick out (looks-wise) in that location. Also, this way my wife can change out the DVD's pretty easily for the kids.

98thumpin

well yeah thats a good point i didnt even think about that. that was a smart idea.

brettw22

Maybe I'm not envisioning this right, but with the single interconnect coming from the deck up front, the only way to get the signal to both of the amps is a Y-cable. Those aren't very long and I know I can't get each end of the Y to the seperate amps. I know that I can get interconnects to split from the Y there, but with either scenario, the interconnect would ultimately have to be a female/male (unless i'm then automatically obligated to get a gender bender connector which is just yet another connection in the mix that I don't really want to do if there's an alternative.

1996blackmax

I am lost, you have that HU and only have one RCA preout?

brettw22

To be honest, I have no idea what the back of that thing has.......lol.

Lemme check their site really quick and I'll find out.

1996blackmax

You have 3 sets of preouts on that thing. I had the non-Premier version. Make use of those preouts, and the xtra preout voltage that you paid for. No need to water down a sinlge preout.

brettw22

So just get 2 seperate full run interconnects from the deck to each amp....

What type of tools am I going to need to get a deck out of the dash? I swear if I break the thing I'm gonna beat the **** out of it until I just have to replace the whole damn thing..........lol........

1996blackmax

brettw22 wrote:

So just get 2 seperate full run interconnects from the deck to each amp....

That's it .

brettw22 wrote:

What type of tools am I going to need to get a deck out of the dash? I swear if I break the thing I'm gonna beat the **** out of it until I just have to replace the whole damn thing..........lol........

:eek: EASY.....

I would have screwdrivers, and a panel removing tool (I got mine at Pepboys from the "HELP" section for $5 bucks). That is all that's needed for my car. I can pop-out my stereo in no time at all . You could also call Crutchfield and pay like $5 bucks for some master sheets for your car. They tell you all that you need for dismantling your car, as well as that needs to be removed. If not look on line an try to find a page with your vehicle info on it. Heck even a Haynes manual might help for that.

brettw22

Ok.......so here's the order I have put together from CarDomain:

DBR44 Distribution Block
RTI0 Inter-Lok Pin - (to attach 1/0 cable to distro block)
PS00BX 1/0 Amp Kit - I'm already having to replace every bit of wire, plus get another ANL fuse holder and firewall bushing, so might as well buy the whole kit.
(2) ZN360 Interconnects

Then I have to get a few fuses (a 200amp fuse comes with the amp kit, but I'm only at 160 total with the 3 amps so I'm not sure if I should get a 150amp fuse to use instead).

MacLeod

You can run it one of two ways Brett. Your sub preout on the head unit will be a pair just like for the front and rear. Run one to one amp and then use a Y splitter.

Or you can run the sub outs to one amp and then use that amps preouts to run to the second amp.

As for the fuse, if youre at 160 max current draw and a 200 comes with the kit, it would be ok to stick with the 200.

exalted512

depending if you have a cage or not, you can use a pair of pioneer keys to get the radio out, no screw drivers or panel poppers involved. Just put the keys on each side of the radio and pull it out.
-Cody

1996blackmax

Forgot to mention that if you run a seperate RCA cable to your sub amp, you can use the HU to adjust the level on it . That comes in pretty handy, especially if you are like me and listen to a wide variety of music.

1996blackmax

Check out KnuKonceptz, good quality stuff for great prices. Maybe worth a shot to cancel some of that order.


1ga amp kit, $72.99:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK0 (includes the ANL fuse, Mac's favorite )

Grommet is 30 cents:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=SB0

Ring terminal, $6.50 a piece:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=SSRT0

A few different distro block:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Distribution%20/%20Fuse%20Blocks

brettw22

I already have streetwires in the car, so I'm gonna stick with that.........sue me.

Explain the advantage of running 2 seperate interconnect cables from the deck to each amp vs. one and splitting it at the end. Blackmax mentioned taking advantage of the extra power, but what does that matter if I've got the amp powering things?

exalted512

for one, if you have a subwoofer out, that most likely means youll have sub woofer controls. You will not have that if you split it. Also, you will not have as clear a signal. Plus, if you have 2 pairs of SR components and 2 SR subs and you ghetto rig the RCAs, everyone here will never talk to you again
-Cody

neomagus00

and cody of course failed to mention that using dual RCA runs will allow you to run the full voltage into each amp... this lets you keep gains down, which as i'm sure you know keeps noise down... which is the real reason you run dual RCAs and why we pay more for high-voltage HUs...

brettw22

Who knew........good stuff. (though I don't quite understand how voltage to the amp has anything to do with the interconnects if the thing is being powered by the distro blocked 4awg wire)

I'm not wanting to use the y-splitter, but why could you not use the sub controls if you run one interconnect and split it to the 2 amps? What makes the controls unuseable?

Ok......the back of the deck has 3 pair of outputs....fronts, rears, and sub (in standard mode) and low, mid, hi (in networked mode). It's in STD so I have 2 outputs for the 2 interconnects I'll be running from the deck back to the amps (sans y-splitter).

I know y'all have said to drill a larger hole in the car to get the 1/0 gauge wire through, but how the hell do you get a drill anywhere near that thing to get a clean shot at drilling a hole? I'm not sure if I can pull the existing grommet out of where it is currently connected and replace that grommet with a 1/0 (best case) but getting a full size drill anywhere close looks totally undoable......

neomagus00

drilling - this is why a dremel is your friend

sub controls - you have to use the sub output to use the sub controls, but it's non-fading (and i think non-balancing left-and-right, but don't quote me)... the sub output isn't the same as the front and rear ones, in order to make it more useful to sub amps... that sounds really unclear, did that help at all?

voltage - there's the power supply voltage, then there's the signal voltage (and there's the irrelevant output voltage)... three totally different things. the signal voltage - the potential on the RCAs - is clearly what transmits the signal. given that you'll have (say) 2 V of radiated noise across your RCAs, it makes more sense to have 8V of signal running down the RCAs instead of only 4. then you only have to amplify the signal half as much to get to your required power output (say 150W), which means you amplify the induced noise half as much too. this is good. the the best of my cross-referencing ability, we do with voltage what home audio people do with insulation on their RCAs.

brettw22

I'm supposed to create a round hole with a dremmel? They don't have mini holesaws for those things, so i could see that being a nightmare, no?

Just to clarify........if there are 2 sub outs, and you run a single cable then split to 2 amps at the back end, you're still using a sub out so wouldn't you ultimately have access to the sub controls on the deck?

1996blackmax

brettw22 wrote:

I already have streetwires in the car, so I'm gonna stick with that.........sue me.

Understood . I have been using their stuff for many years now.


I took out some of my Streetwires speaker cable and compared it to my KnuKoncepts stuff and was surprized at the difference. The Knukonceptz stuff while the same gauge uses alot more fine wires, and the jacket is much more tear resistant. Just a little info.....

brettw22

I'm gonna be bashing my head against the wall with trying to put a sub and some amps in.......i'm not switching speaker wire at all........lol.

exalted512

i still say go with dual 4awg runs.

the reason why you wouldnt have sub controls is because its not hooked up to the sub output.
-Cody