My system is installed.......bout damn time.....

PoweredByDodge

MacLeod wrote:

In my opinon, Id keep the single 400.4 and use that money for your sub amp. There is nothing wrong with bi-amping but if youre just mainly wanting a "plug and play" system, bi-amping aint really worth it especially with the SR's.

that's basically what i was leaning toward too... i like passive crossovers... the only thing i like about bi-amping is being able to adjust tweeter, mid, and midbass for sensitivity differences... but the polk SR's are all engineered to match up dead on balls. so that's not necessary at all.

do it up like you have it now and just add the sub amp kimosabi!

(suggestion --- SR 10 with a 300.2 (assuming the sub will be available in single 4, or dual 2 ohm coils and with a power rating in the 500-ish range). It'd be kinda cool if it was a 1000 watt sub, then you could throw two C500.1's on it.

I"m addicted to amps

dorokusai

It looks real cute.

brettw22

I'm thinking 12's on the subs, and I was going to get the 500.1........that should run both of the 12's with ease........

MacLeod

It would be a better match to the MM2104's but itll push the 2124's just fine too.

brettw22

Why would the 500.1 be a better match for the 2104's and not the 2124's?

Rogue Torino

A lot of these newer cars have molex plugs built in to the door boot making is a real pain to go through the factory boot. As far as drilling 2 new holes and installing an after market boot, that's fine and dandy but not all door jambs are as easy to access as a Dodge truck and Drilling them can be a nightmare and possibly require taking the door off of the car. However, they should have taken a look at the door boots before charging you to replace factory wiring. Further more, if they couldn't do the labor they charged you for they should have immediately refunded the money instead of hoping you'd forget.

The amp mount looks nice and even though the amp doesn't have vents on the top edge it should still have something to protect it from any errant water that may fall on it. perhaps a small carpeted piece to shroud the top.

PoweredByDodge

Rogue Torino wrote:

A lot of these newer cars have molex plugs built in to the door boot making is a real pain to go through the factory boot. As far as drilling 2 new holes and installing an after market boot, that's fine and dandy but not all door jambs are as easy to access as a Dodge truck and Drilling them can be a nightmare and possibly require taking the door off of the car. However, they should have taken a look at the door boots before charging you to replace factory wiring. Further more, if they couldn't do the labor they charged you for they should have immediately refunded the money instead of hoping you'd forget.

I'll grant you that... u're right, they should have at least looked at the job before they quoted a cost... would have avoided him being unhappy with it.

brettw22

I was suffering from sticker shock actually.

When I had taken my car into them in the first place, I was sitting there for an hour and a half before the guy started working on the car. I went out to ask him a few questions and he went into a few things then asked if I had been given a complete quote (which I had tried to get the sales person to give me before they drove the car in, and about 3 days prior to my install). They originally told me just about $300, and when the tech had my car panels off and started, was given numbers close to $500....

They're backpedling saying that the guy had to do extra work to get the rear speakers mounted to justify the $80 vs $40 price tag. They started to tell me that he had to manufacture a board to fit the 6x9 slot, which I interrupted him mid sentence telling him that the plate came with the speakers. How they can say he had a hard time mounting 6.5" speakers in a 6x9 slot with a provided mounting bracket is beyond me, and they're going to have a hard time getting me to believe it.

exalted512

ive never had a problem getting around the plugs in the grommet whether it be a dodge or a beamer. Thats the beauty of "right angles" Not sure the technical term, but it goes on the end of the drill and makes a 90º angle. They run about 25 bucks at home depot.

Besides the point that any installer thats been doing it for even a couple months know damn near all Hondas have that plug.

Manufacture a board my ****. "Manufacture" is bull **** in itself. They have to make a board with a hole in it. Any **** with a jigsaw can do that. And that besides the point the Polk provides adapters to fit 6x9s with the SR's.

Def. take your business elsewhere next time. And Sirius installs are extremely easy if you can match colors and plug in wires.
-Cody

MacLeod

brettw22 wrote:

Why would the 500.1 be a better match for the 2104's and not the 2124's?

The 2124's are 400 watt subs and the 2104 are 300 watt. The 500.1 makes a little over 600 watts real world power so that would be a better match for the 10's.

Still, itll work well with the 12's also.

brettw22

I still don't understand the reasoning.....if the 2124's can handle more power, and the 500.1 is going to give more juice than a 300.2...........(what am I missing?)

MacLeod

You run the 500.1 which makes 600 watts or 300x2 and you run a pair of subs.

The 2104 is rated at 300 watts which would be an ideal match for the 300x2 of the 500.1

The 2124 is rated at 400 watts which would be underpowered by 100 watts from the 300x2 of the 500.1

brettw22

So I'd have to get 2 300.2's to run 2 2124's?

audiobliss

...umm...color me confused...

I would think two C300.2 amps would do well with a pair of MM2124 subs. That'd be 450 watts to each, use the gains to turn it down, and you're booming.

Rogue Torino

exalted512 wrote:

ive never had a problem getting around the plugs in the grommet whether it be a dodge or a beamer. Thats the beauty of "right angles" Not sure the technical term, but it goes on the end of the drill and makes a 90º angle. They run about 25 bucks at home depot.
-Cody

A skew? Yeah I have one and you'd think a person who's "been installing for 30 years" would too but you never know. He's probably just being lazy. There are a few cars i've done where even that is a tight squeeze, but at my location there isn't much call to rewire the doors as most people 'round here are cheap. I ussually get stuck trying to explain why thier Boss 2000w amp can't power the JL sub they probably stole a couple days earlier......

MacLeod

brettw22 wrote:

So I'd have to get 2 300.2's to run 2 2124's?

Not necessarily. The 500.1 would still push a pair of 2124's quite well and its doubful youd even notice the 100 watt deficit.

A 300.2 would be awful close to being too much. That 300.2 makes 500 watts bridged and that would be 100 more than the 2124 is rated for. Still it would be ok with some common sense usage and Brett is experienced enough in audio that he wouldnt overdrive them.

But for me, Id rather have the simplicity and ease of installation of a single 500.1 for a pair of 2124's.

brettw22

I'd agree on the ease of a single amp over trying to do 2.

I can say confidently that I'll at least try to install the sub and amp myself. I know I have to get a distro block now that I'm going to have the 2 amps, and the 4 gauge wire should be sufficient to run the 400.4 and 500.1 if I remember correctly.

I know I'm going to need to get a Sub RCA cable, but what types of power cables do I need to get for the additional amp for the subs?

Also, with HT the sub cable is a single end to single end RCA cable, but someone mentioned that I need a 2 channel sub run......why the additional termination?

audiobliss

Beats me. I was pretty sure you only need one for car subs, too. Still am, actually.

PoweredByDodge

your Polk C500.1 or 300.2, whatever you get --- any car amp --- is going to have a "right and left" RCA input plug jacks...

your deck suwoofer output is a right and left rca jack...

so - use a 2 channel car audio RCA. don't use a 1 channel home audio one.

far as the sub...

why not wait for an SR sub? you have 2 sets of SR components... to hell with a momo sub... get an SR sub. Jeez man, be matched!

I reccomend you go with one sub...

#1 - space --- you want some truck room

#2 - it may very well look better... when you get into high end gear like the SR stuff, sometimes "more is less".

#3 - I think one good 10 or 12 will stomp a mudhole in your chest, no need for 2.

now... say the SR 10 or 12 is dual 2 ohm or single 4 ohm coil... then you'd want the C300.2 - and you'd bridge it to the sub.

If it's dual 4 ohm coil, then go with the C500.1

my understanding is the 300.2 will put out over 500 watts into 4 ohms with a greater slew rate and characteristics than the class D 500.1 --- that doesn't mean the 500.1's a slouch though... its just a matter of "if you can use a class AB, then do so" kind of thing... at least at this point in electronics tech evolution.

as far as power wire.. what do you have now? if you have a 4 gauge line, then all you need is a distribution block, and you can jump an 8 gauge line from the distro block over to the 400.4... and another 8 gauge line over to the sub amp (Assuming these lines are like 3 feet or less each.

brettw22

I'm DEFINITELY waiting for the SR subs (I wasn't sure if Mac's model numbers were for the SR's or Momo's or whatever).

The 10's or 12's are going to be offered in a single or double voice coil.....what that means for the ohm rating i have no idea (nor do I fully get the purpose of double coil, but whatever).

Am I understanding correctly that the Polk amps aren't all the same class design? I would have thought there would be a difference between manufacturers, but same manufacturers and different models would be the same.....no?

The 400.4 is on the left side of the trunk, and I'm thinking that the 500.1 or 300.2 will be mounted on the other side of the trunk (not a big fan of the idea of mounting the amp to the sub box).

I have a 4 gauge wire run to the 400.4 right now, and I'm sure that I wouldn't be within 3 feet of the distro block on both amps. I haven't looked, but the 4 guage wire would be run right into the 400.4, right? If that's the case, I'm guessing I have to pull that out, run the 4 gauge into the distro block, then jumper cables from that distro block to each amp, but why would it be 8 gauge wire now? Wouldn't that give less power ultimately to each amp?

Rogue Torino

Dual Voice Coils make it possible to use the subs under configureations that you just can't do with a single VC. It also makes it possible to byamp a sub but that isn't done often. if you have 4 Ohm DVC you can have them wired at 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm total, where a single 4 Ohm VC can only be 4 Ohm. It all depnds on what amp you're using and how many Subs you plan on running off of it.

MacLeod

The reason for different class amps is that Class D amps are much better suited for powering subs. Theyre much more effecient and can deliver more power to your sub per input voltagte than a Class A/B. Plus a 500 watt Class D amp will be quite a bit smaller than a 500 watt Class A/B amp.

The reason for dual voice coil subs is to take advantage of the Class D design. Since a Class D is stable to 2 ohms mono and a stereo amp usually is not, the DVC sub allows you to take full advantage of all a Class D amp's power while only using a single sub.

Plus it can let you use multiple subs at an impedance you couldnt have used before.

Say you take a pair of DVC 4 ohm subs, wire the subs in series with each other and in parallel with the amp and youve got 2 subs running 4 ohms mono.

iworkfortweeter

dude man did an awesome job. our installers are the best in the nation, and we're proud of that. don't let some douchebag tell you otherwise. there's absolutely nothing wrong with that job, plus, where else are you supposed to stick that monster? i have the EXACT same setup as you do down to the brand of car, and guess where my amp is? exactly...

brettw22

My issue isn't with where the amp is (other than it's directly exposed to drips from the trunk any time it's opened).......it's the bait/switch they did with the pricing on the install after they had the car half torn apart.

Bottom line, lesson learned......pin their asses down to the penny before they do a thing (something I'd come in twice to do before my install date, but was told it was unnecessary......ha)

PoweredByDodge

iworkfortweeter wrote:

dude man did an awesome job. our installers are the best in the nation, and we're proud of that. don't let some douchebag tell you otherwise. there's absolutely nothing wrong with that job, plus, where else are you supposed to stick that monster? i have the EXACT same setup as you do down to the brand of car, and guess where my amp is? exactly...

1) That is not an awesome job.

It's a good job. It coud be better. For what Brett paid, he should have gotten better. It's a matter of principle. Is it a bad job? Not at all... but is it a an awesome job? No way in hell.

2) Tweeter's installers are not the best in the nation. But that's neither here nor there.

3) There are several things that we pointed out wrong with the job in this thread. Your inability to notice them, or your misguided stupidity in overlooking them does not change the fact that they exist and that Brett is living with them.

4) Where else is one to stick said monster? Lots of places. If you ask a question like that, then you either haven't done any (yes any, not many) installs, or you are simply relegated to the "bolt the amp to the box and call it a day in the back of a 1994 Honda Accord" install jobs. Sorry... there's more to installing than slapping a power wire on the amp. I'm not proclaiming myself as some allmighty installer. However, I'll put it to you this way... I have neither the handskills, patience, nor tactility to do supreme work, however, I have the know how, intelligence, and experience to direct, instruct, utilize and critique supreme work. That being said... I do good to very good work all damn day long.

98thumpin

damn skippy you said it ther in a nurshell

Red230SX

PBD that's what I was thinking as well. I can do an install on that level in my
sleep and I don't work for Tweeter

You live and you learn I guess.

TroyD

C'mon, Tweeter rocks. Mantis said so.

Any questions??

BDT

98thumpin

tweeter is great for buying homea audio equipment, but they are not all that great for car audio installs

MacLeod

There is nothing wrong with Tweeter. They carry excellent quality gear and their sales staff are a lot more knowledgable than other big box stores. As for their installation quality, Id rate it much higher than the typical CC or BB job and on par with a lot of custom shops. Ive bought a lot of gear from Tweeter over the years and have never really had any complaints about them.

Besides, they let me go into the home audio room and listen to the LSi7's and RTi8's all the time without any static.